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  1. “Abandon hope all ye who enter here....”
  2. Here’s my two pence: Drawing package I draw the part in a cad programme at 1 unit = 1mm. However, whatever you draw in, make sure it’s a vector format, not raster. Measuring I measure the parts using a metal scale rule and sometimes digital callipers. Tamiya normally space their holes at specific distances from one another, like 25mm, 10mm, etc, and also at specific distances from the centre line of the part (if relevant). These dimensions are centre to centre of the holes. These can be measured using the ruler to derive this distance as a radius around that hole. These radii are useful to then plot onto the drawing as you can use these as a cross check when you’re trying to match and reproduce multiple holes at various angles from one another. I should really invest in an angle measuring device. Outer edges Tamiya edge radii are usually 2, 3 or 5mm from my experience. Useful to know, as certain damper mounts rely on the outer edge radii to slot neatly onto another part, such as a gearbox case (top force front damper mount, for example) Scanning Ive tried scanning parts before to then trace the part in the cad programme, but I’ve never found this to be accurate. The scan never seems to come out ‘flat’. Others have had success with this method. File format I always send a .DWG format cad drawing to Fiberlyte, they can cut it directly. Most or all vector drawing programmes, including Illustrator, can normally output to this format. I don’t include dimension annotation on the file. Holes Given that you’re presumably sending them a part to be cut in carbon, you should draw your m3 hole diameters at 3mm or 3.1mm, for a snug fit. Obviously you’re not screwing into the carbon itself, merely using a nut and bolt type mechanical clamping to the carbon face , so the hole needs to be as big as, or just a little bit bigger than, the m3 screw. As stated above, plastic holes are a smaller diameter as the screw is required to bite into the plastic itself (what I call ‘destructive’ fixing, as this makes replacements of screws in the long terms harder to achieve, although there are various techniques to mitigate this - I digress, however, this is another thread topic!) Print first Always helps to print the drawing 1:1 to cross check the part with the dimensions for fitting etc. (I think @ThunderDragonCy calls this ‘Paper Engineering(tm)’ ). Do his before sending anything for cutting...nothing more disappointing than the excitement of receiving a shiny new custom part... that doesn’t fit....
  3. Re the adjustables: I hold the flat piece of the turnbuckle shaft in the middle with a firm set of standard pliers. I then use flat pliers to twist the cup head of each turnbuckle ball cup piece by a set number of 180 degree turns. (Flat head pliers have no grooves or grips so do no damage) A little kitchen paper inserted into the pliers aids in not damaging the plastic. Normally works out relatively painlessly and fairly accurately. I always measure the resultant dimensions at the end to check both sides are equal.
  4. Awesome mate, what an adventure. Very happy for you and for how it’s turned out, especially all the custom modding and experimental stuff. Very inspiring. Hope to see a longer video on that larger gravel area you’ve shot videos on before
  5. Have been playing with home made sticker designs, printed at MCI Racing for this car (and also for the experimental DF-01 build). Vinyl is quite thick but generally print quality is pretty good. May need to stick a few more decals onto this car (which I have already had printed just not quite sure how to use them yet) but I quite like the look as is
  6. ^^^^ what he said......! ^^^^ what he said......!
  7. I’ve heard this said a few times. Does this limit the movement at all? Does the plastic need replacing at periodic intervals? On a few of the high end kits I have there are those foam rings that fit around the ballstud to help prevent dust ingress into the cap interestingly on some non Tamiya kits the ballcap part is reinforced with ribs in the predominant direction of travel, and is made of better quality plastic. I did enjoy buying a ballcap remover tool recently though.... someone on TC recommended it but I can’t remember who. It’s much easier to remove them with this tool, and it’s a nice little bit of ‘kit’ for the RC toolbox.... love purchasing little gizmos like this!
  8. Excellent stuff Cy! Very interesting following this thread. How resilient is the white material is respect of slight bending/flexing?
  9. The aftershave’ll be pretty decent n’all!
  10. Thanks @Man1c M0nk3y, yes finish yours! I’m loving this bodyshell but only when cut to a size outside the ‘official’ cut lines. The shell above has about 8mm extra on the side flanks and 15mm on the rear cut, and looks soooo much better than a stock shell. It’s a bit odd Tamiya went with those cut lines given how wide this bodyshell is in relation to its height. I have another version of the shell cut to the Tamiya cut lines and it’s so flat it’s frankly odd looking. I also reversed the wing orientation, and cut the wing to a different shape to make it a bit more personalised and ‘old school retro’ buggy.
  11. Thanks @Richie Rich. Here are the parts used over and above the stock kit parts. Think it covers most of it, hope this helps. Suspension Front Rocker Arm: GPM Racing DT3027-S Front C-Hubs: GPM Racing DT3019-S Front Knuckle Arm : GPM Racing DT3021-S Rear Hub: GPM Racing DT3022-S Suspension Arm mount: GPM Racing DT3008-S Shocks: Carson Model Sport, parts 500405702 / 500405702 DT-03 Turnbuckle set: Tamiya 54572 Rear Carbon damper stay: Tamiya 54563 Front Carbon Damper stays: home-made piece, fabricated by Fibrelyte Suspension Shaft set: Tamiya 53301 Drive Aluminium Dog-bone: GPM Racing DT3158-S Aluminium Wheel Joint: GPM Racing DT3039-BK Aluminium Differential Joint: GPM Racing DT3041-S CVD Drive Shaft: GPM Racing DT3264SC-BK Steel Pinion gear 17t: Tamiya 54628 Other Aluminium Adjustable wing mount: GPM Racing DT3040-S Servo Mount (aluminium): GPM Racing DT3024 (Silver) Front Bumper (aluminium): GPM Racing DT3003F-S DT-03 Lightweight gear shaft: Tamiya 54560 (had one lying around so I fitted it...) DT-03 aluminium gearbox bridge: Tamiya 54566 Battery Bar: Tamiya 54564 Headlight / Driver figure: Tamiya 54626 Spacers/ shims: For use with the shaft set and e-clips: Tamiya Aluminium Spacer set 5.5mm dia. Part: 53539 The Frog Decal Set: MCI Racing Vintage Tamiya Decals: MCI Racing Stainless steel bucket head hex screws: generally M3 size: Westfield Fasteners
  12. OK here is a sneak preview / update on the as-of-yet unfinished car, will post more detail and hopefully the finished article later, there's still a fair bit to do (probably next weekend at this rate).... but after much pain with getting the right body shell shape and size, and agonising over the colour scheme, here is where it's at: More to follow.
  13. Charge from fiberlyte for something like that for a front mount would be about 7 quid for the part and 4 quid for postal, that’s my estimate based on a similar type of order I’ve made in the past. Email them with questions, they’re very responsive. Keen Hawk...Like this one...? I love that shell. But quite rare it seems. I tracked this one down on eBay after a very long search, and then no one bid against me. I assumed no one likes it? Even Team Bluegroove don’t make replicas. Good chassis for a formularisation though.
  14. Oooh nice @martinjpayne! Great bodyshell. Is that a custom solution to the front bumper or is that a standard part? Interesting to see this being attempted on another chassis! Build thread? Just out of interest, can you use front c-hub from another chassis, such as TT02B, on the DF03? The upper arms could come in from the rear rather than the top as is currently shown in your pics. Also, looks like you could get a lower profile front end, with a bespoke shaped carbon damper piece to reduce the height of the tower a little. Shocks would need a minor shorten. Yummy, keep us posted
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