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ALEXKYRIAK

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About ALEXKYRIAK

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    London
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    Photography, Motorsports, Science, Architecture, Aviation, Design, Football

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  1. We could all play ‘guess the car’ my friend is working with ..... could be one of several contenders....! He already does that.... He’s apparently going to build at least two cars out of this, and he’s vowed never again to buy a cheap little vintage restoration project from the internet, on account of it being financially ruinous!
  2. Ok, so I’m almost too embarrassed to ask this but what the heck.... A friend of mine* got an old car from a well known auction site, and is half way through stripping it down and doing it up. A new replica body shell is already ordered as are some minor other hop ups. However, he is also considering some key replacement parts from a new re-re car that is not the same model as the vintage car, but is a family-related higher spec car that has many parts that are interchangeable, as the original vintage car has no parts available and no direct re-re version available. The considerations start sensibly enough, just with an absolutely required drive train upgrade. However to get that upgrade, it transpires it actually costs quite a bit when he considered a few of the associated parts and parts bags that need to come with it to install the drivetrain. This collection of parts comes to well over half the cost of a the re-re version of the car kit in question.... the seller of the parts has clearly just split up a kit and is charging exorbitant prices for the parts and parts bags. So now my friend is considering just buying the new re-re kit of the family related re-re to take those parts, with the big idea to sell off the remaining parts, which would hopefully make the whole endeavour a bit cheaper.... except now he’s thinking that he could just build the entire new car, and just mount the replica body shell of the vintage car onto it..... particularly because then this would give him a bunch of other ‘upgrades’ that came with the higher spec version of the same family of said car.... but this would then defeat the point of restoring the original.... !!!! He still needs the drive train upgrade... So apparently, in total he’s gone and bought the new re-re kit, in addition to the original old vintage car that started this whole process off in the first place, and a few upgrades and a body for said vintage car... crazy guy. So now he’s thinking perhaps just build the new re-re, stick the replica vintage shell on it... and then get the old vintage car up and running again but with perhaps just a few new parts....... but this would best be achieved again just by buying the re-re kit as when he considers just the exorbitant parts as sold individually by scrupulous kit dismantles...... so perhaps just get the new re-re kit and sell off the remaining parts.... aaarrrgghhhh...! Where does it all stop? Ad Infinitum what should I... I mean, what should my friend*, do....? Where does it all stop? It’s kind of like a grotesque reversal of Trigger’s Broom / Ship of Theseus..... Has anyone else faced this sort of agonising conundrum with cars, upgrades, hop ups, running versions vs shelf versions vs NIB box versions, etc...? Let my friend hear your stories so he can not feel so bad about all of this!
  3. Hi all, long time no post So as a young kid I had the Hornet, and with the Hornet came one of the fabulous Tamiya guidebooks. This was probably around ‘86 or so. As all of us did I’m sure, I drooled over all of the photos and action pics, and loved the Audi, Opel, Lancia and Pajero. They were so interesting and mysterious to my young eyes - they looked very different to the ‘buggy’ Hornet, and somehow cool and unobtainable. ...and of course, this: I simply loved the idea of these cars, the photography was absolutely awesome and they looked so cool. Anyway, fast forward years later, and having got back into the hobby 2-3 years ago, I decided it would be amazing to have one of these cars. Only problem is, they’re as rare as the tears of a unicorn. So, did some research and found a fair few recreations of these cars as the originals are very rare - and got lots of help and advice from the awesome people here on TC ... I bought an ABS hard body Lancia shell a few years ago, but then never did anything with it as I was unsure how to attempt to cut out the larger wheel arches. Basically, I was a bit daunted by trying to cut big wheel arches into a beautiful pristine Tamiya hard body...yikes. I’ve since plucked up the courage and enlarged the wheel arches, from this: ...to this: I traced the arches in pencil using the internal ridges in the shell - read the thread above for the info and advice on how to find the curve: I was super-nervous doing this for the first time but basically it all turned out really well. I cut most of the plastic out using side cutters, then used a Dremel 3000 with a sanding mandrel bit running at low RPM, then hand sanding the final last refinements to the curves to make sure they’re perfect and correct. So this all turned out really well and I now feel a lot more confident with ABS shells (these were sort of a dark art as far as I was concerned) Then, the ‘donor car’ arrived: The Brat is the obvious choice as a base chassis. I have zero knowledge of this chassis, however have always admired the Brat from the Tamiya guidebooks, and also and particularly, the frankly insanely awesome Frog (to my 9 year old eyes!). So donor car kit for the Lancia Rally is in place (with a Brat and a Frog also now on their way because I just had to...looking forward to these...👀.) and ready to use as the base chassis. Have also ordered various other required components that will be required for this build Will post updates here with the build progress. Am really looking forward to this
  4. Thanks all, some really useful advice here, appreciated as always. I was thinking about doing this. Part of me just wants to use the old diff and components, however to get a new diff and parts via the well known auction site is sort of tempting, if potentially expensive. Was looking at super astute bits also.... I presume these will fit but I need to do some research to ensure they’ll be compatible. (which inadvertently is triggering the hop up cascade of ‘well if I get the super astute diff and case then maybe I’ll get the super astute chassis and then maybe I’ll need to get the super astute dampers....’ - but I’ll probably avoid this path, would might as well purchase a super astute 🙄 !) But, am definitely tempted by this option, I presume this is possible. I think first step is to pull it apart and give it a visual assessment. Also will give it a good clean and a good soaking, perhaps also a whirl in the ultrasonic. will let you know how I get on
  5. Hi all, I have an old stock-built Madcap I'd like to restore. I have stripped it all down to the base components and given it all a good clean and check - except for the differential. I was wondering if anyone can provide some tips and advice on how to clean and restore the ball differential. It's a relatively complicated part obviously, and replacement parts are hard to come by as far as I can tell. Any advice on clean-up and restoration techniques for such a component would be very much appreciated - I'd like to restore the diff but I'd like to do it correctly, and have zero experience in the restoration of such a component. It’s a specialist question I know. But thought worth asking here, as where better to find such a knowledgable bunch! Cheers guys
  6. So.... I haven't posted on TC in a loooong time (will explain that in another thread, maybe...). I had to scratch this itch.... Got the Lancia shell out and went from this: To this: Using one pencil, one pencil marking technique from @njmlondon, one plastic cutters, one dremel with a sanding mandrel, and some Dutch courage, managed to get a very nice and accurate cut out of the shell. Was very apprehensive approaching the cutting of the hard plastic. More to follow I hope
  7. “Abandon hope all ye who enter here....”
  8. Here’s my two pence: Drawing package I draw the part in a cad programme at 1 unit = 1mm. However, whatever you draw in, make sure it’s a vector format, not raster. Measuring I measure the parts using a metal scale rule and sometimes digital callipers. Tamiya normally space their holes at specific distances from one another, like 25mm, 10mm, etc, and also at specific distances from the centre line of the part (if relevant). These dimensions are centre to centre of the holes. These can be measured using the ruler to derive this distance as a radius around that hole. These radii are useful to then plot onto the drawing as you can use these as a cross check when you’re trying to match and reproduce multiple holes at various angles from one another. I should really invest in an angle measuring device. Outer edges Tamiya edge radii are usually 2, 3 or 5mm from my experience. Useful to know, as certain damper mounts rely on the outer edge radii to slot neatly onto another part, such as a gearbox case (top force front damper mount, for example) Scanning Ive tried scanning parts before to then trace the part in the cad programme, but I’ve never found this to be accurate. The scan never seems to come out ‘flat’. Others have had success with this method. File format I always send a .DWG format cad drawing to Fiberlyte, they can cut it directly. Most or all vector drawing programmes, including Illustrator, can normally output to this format. I don’t include dimension annotation on the file. Holes Given that you’re presumably sending them a part to be cut in carbon, you should draw your m3 hole diameters at 3mm or 3.1mm, for a snug fit. Obviously you’re not screwing into the carbon itself, merely using a nut and bolt type mechanical clamping to the carbon face , so the hole needs to be as big as, or just a little bit bigger than, the m3 screw. As stated above, plastic holes are a smaller diameter as the screw is required to bite into the plastic itself (what I call ‘destructive’ fixing, as this makes replacements of screws in the long terms harder to achieve, although there are various techniques to mitigate this - I digress, however, this is another thread topic!) Print first Always helps to print the drawing 1:1 to cross check the part with the dimensions for fitting etc. (I think @ThunderDragonCy calls this ‘Paper Engineering(tm)’ ). Do his before sending anything for cutting...nothing more disappointing than the excitement of receiving a shiny new custom part... that doesn’t fit....
  9. Re the adjustables: I hold the flat piece of the turnbuckle shaft in the middle with a firm set of standard pliers. I then use flat pliers to twist the cup head of each turnbuckle ball cup piece by a set number of 180 degree turns. (Flat head pliers have no grooves or grips so do no damage) A little kitchen paper inserted into the pliers aids in not damaging the plastic. Normally works out relatively painlessly and fairly accurately. I always measure the resultant dimensions at the end to check both sides are equal.
  10. Awesome mate, what an adventure. Very happy for you and for how it’s turned out, especially all the custom modding and experimental stuff. Very inspiring. Hope to see a longer video on that larger gravel area you’ve shot videos on before
  11. Have been playing with home made sticker designs, printed at MCI Racing for this car (and also for the experimental DF-01 build). Vinyl is quite thick but generally print quality is pretty good. May need to stick a few more decals onto this car (which I have already had printed just not quite sure how to use them yet) but I quite like the look as is
  12. ^^^^ what he said......! ^^^^ what he said......!
  13. I’ve heard this said a few times. Does this limit the movement at all? Does the plastic need replacing at periodic intervals? On a few of the high end kits I have there are those foam rings that fit around the ballstud to help prevent dust ingress into the cap interestingly on some non Tamiya kits the ballcap part is reinforced with ribs in the predominant direction of travel, and is made of better quality plastic. I did enjoy buying a ballcap remover tool recently though.... someone on TC recommended it but I can’t remember who. It’s much easier to remove them with this tool, and it’s a nice little bit of ‘kit’ for the RC toolbox.... love purchasing little gizmos like this!
  14. Excellent stuff Cy! Very interesting following this thread. How resilient is the white material is respect of slight bending/flexing?
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