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  1. Thanks all for the replies, much appreciated, will do some research then. This would be a new chassis / kit type for me, so need to do some proper reading up!
  2. Hi all, I think I once read on this forum that there was a better chassis to run the Tamiya 47437 Mercedes-Benz CLK-GTR 1997 TT-01E Kit on. I just can’t remember what it was, although I suspect it was a TA chassis. Can anyone elaborate on this? Thanks 😀
  3. I got a mention on the wife’s forum under the ‘how many kits does your husband have and how willing are you to give him the boot over it?’ thread.
  4. Beautiful build, love the body work, and really really loving the photography. Great work overall.
  5. They have slightly different mounting arms and positions if you go by the manuals. Which you can read here - https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/manuals.htm An awesome source of info if you ever want to see other cars / compare stuff / go off piste, etc neo fighter I think is side faced rear body pin mount, whereas racing fighter is a vertical rear mounting post.
  6. Top man @Finnsllc thanks for the links. Couldn’t find one myself somehow.
  7. Hi all, am trying to track down an unpainted Keen Hawk body shell. Anyone have one of these? Thanks
  8. Hey that’s not apples for apples....! Many F1 cars look beautiful, because of what it is they’re designed to do. The engineering and the form is incredibly interesting from a design perspective (to some people, not all, obviously). Whilst I’m not a fan of the current season F1 car ‘look’ (due to the rules which IMHO need revising), I find both examples of the types of car you picture above to be equally valid as cars and as objects of interest and beauty (love the Cobra!).
  9. So main difference between M07 and M08 is the handling, due to front vs rear mounted motor? In respect of this question about motor mount position, what's the difference that the wheelbase makes on these chassis? Is there a 'best' option for a 210mm wheelbase car for example?
  10. not a noob question at all! It’s likely that the car chassis rolls into the turn, and lifts the inside wheel, depending on if you're still accelerating or not. If the chassis is rolled slightly, the inside wheels will go ‘light’, as it’s not loaded up with the weight of the car. If it’s still slightly in contact over the terrain it can then ‘bounce’ if it’s momentarily deflected as it travels over the ground. If there was weight over the wheel it’d be pushed into the ground more and the shock would hold the wheel down whilst absorbing the impacts of the terrain.
  11. A few years ago bought a hotshot because I realised Tamiya was still a thing, after 25 years of assuming it was just a ‘fad’ from my childhood in the 80s/early 90s. Thought it’d be a novelty to own one. Now I have 40 kits, 18 of which are built, and a mountain of parts and hop ups. I failed to keep the T-number below 1.
  12. Very nicely. Ran it on smoothish sandy gravel mostly. Nice balance need to play with the shocks a bit to see if stiffening it helps a little.
  13. Here’s my quite modified DT03 racing fighter. amongst other additions, this sports dt03 shocks, carbon damper mounts, egress wheels and tyres, and a flagrant disregard for the body cut lines. Feels much more old school than the racing fighter but still basically identical to the original kit
  14. The stripes on the Racing Fighter make it go slightly faster
  15. Dodgy soldering skills but this is how I do it for that esc / motor combo. You can tune the wire lengths if you so wish to minimise the amount of 'loose' cabling.
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