loaba

Smurf one-shot #2 is in the books and it's much better than the first go-round. I painted the wing (big no-no in the off-road world) and applied stickers! Thing looks like a car now.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/protoform-pfm10-body-clear-190mm-prm1542-30/p437879 Here's the new shell - it's less "blob" and kinda looks like a real car... Still, it's not what I really want.

It's funny that mentioned vibe - for me it's been quite the opposite. The off-road guys, well the fast ones anyway, were quite cliquish. The on-road guys, fast and slow alike, have all been very helpful. To be fair, off-road is very well established here and on-road is on the process of being reborn. Back to the car/class... How often to do your put your cars on the set-up station? I need a set-up board and droop blocks. Kind of held off as some of this stuff can be quite cost prohibitive!

Our class rules are the motor (like I said above), 190mm body that needs to actually look like some kind of production car (more or less) and USGT tires (what's on the car above). ESC is blinky mode, of course. Makes for really close racing and no one can pass on the straights (usually). All the "racing" is done in the corners, trying to set up for the pass. A lot of the 17.5 buggy guys were thinking about transitioning from outdoor/off-road to indoor/on-road, but balked at running a slow 21.5 motor. Far as I can tell, these things are stupid fast and the 17.5 TC's are faster still! /I am absolutely loving the lack of motor wars // on-road is where it's at!

Associated SC6.1 is out and it's solid - built for racing and tough enough to withstand *bashing. Kyosho RB7 just came out, does this mean that the "SC7" is coming soon? I dunno, but I bet it'll be good when/if it ever shows up. TLR - whatever. Traxxas Slash - we see a few of 'em at the track and good driver can make the car competitive with the LCG chassis. If it were me and I didn't want to wait for a new Kyosho, then I'd run the Associated SC6.1. SC5M was a great car that just didn't support a laydown trans and the 6 fixes that problem. Car should be good on carpet or dirt now, as a result. Here in the states, parts are abundant and plentiful. If you're racing at a track sans Associated support, Petit RC will at least have setup sheets that you can look at. Overall, if racing is what you're after the, SC6.1 is a winner. / *bashing - the SC6.1 probably isn't the best basher, but if keep from running into trees and smashing in to big rocks, it'll likely be just fine.

Jonathon (good name, I spell mine Jonathan) - anyway - track requires Hobbywing 3650 21.5t motor (no timing adjustment) for USGT. I have zero-issue with it and we're starting to get a good field now. 10 guys have these cars/motors, just need 'em to show up. I would love to see less "RC" type paint schemes and more historical racing liveries, but in the end I'll just settle for guys showing up to race. / started out with off-road - totally converted to carpet on-road now.

So been at it for a few weeks now and I'm still slow, but times are going down. Fast guys (17.5, sponsored etc.) are doing the loop in mid 8's. The fast 21.5 guys are getting mid 10's and high 9's and I'm inching my way down with mid-12's. Like I said, the numbers don't lie - I am slow! Anyway - car is still a blast. It's well-planted and I've got tuned for me now. Edit: this is by no means a Yokomo commercial - however, I do hit the wall now and again and this car has proven to be extremely durable! Here's the beast.

In my quest for decent, but not budget-breaking, PC audio I've learned a thing or two. 1. Generally speaking, when you're sitting at the 'puter, that's near-field listening. As such, smaller speakers are fine and 2-channel audio is really all you need. 2. Because smaller speakers provide less bass, subs are really nice if you just have to have that authoritative bass thump. 3. Speakers stands are a must and, at the very least, you need to **** the speakers up (if they're flat on your desk.) 4. External DAC amps are simply awesome. I used to make due with whatever surround sound receiver was laying about and not otherwise in use. Also, I simply HAD to have 3.1 audio (if not 5.1). It was a hard decision to make when I 86'd the center channel! However, by doing so I was able to go away from big-*** appliances on my desk. I'm currently running the very best that China as to offer: S.M.S.L. AD18 DAC/amp connected to a pair of Micca MB42x bookshelf speakers. A Sony sub rounds things out. Sound quality is good and regaining my desk real-estate was equally good!

Raced the Yokomo BD8 for the first time on Saturday. Didn't win and that's okay - I really like 4wd! This is by the far the easiest class I've ever driven. We're racing ozite(sp?)/black carpet and the grip is phenomenal. I don't know if it's because I'm not new to racing or because it's the car or the class, but thing is **** near point-and-click. I am really enjoying the car right now.

Thanks for all the info! These cars (any of 'em) are not cheap. X-ray T4 is $600.00 new, BD9 will be $530.00. Associated (ugh) TC7.2 is $450.00. I mention these cars because based on what you've spent on your TA07, that just seems to be how it goes. I'll be in the BD8 for awhile yet, but I'll definitely look at sourcing/upgrading a TA07 pro or mf. Just seems like Tamiya and onroad racing would be a natural fit. Kinda bummed you either have to send stupid money (900+) for TRF kit or DIY a "lesser" kit...

Pooh rocks, just say'n. The Yokomo is a really nice car, but it's not "my" choice. I did see the TRF419x and I did fall out of my chair at the 1k price-point. I'll check out the TA-07. EDIT: okay - the TA07 really doesn't compare to either the TRF419x or the BD8. That makes me sad, cause the Tamiya is just too much (I could see 500, but not 1k.) :-(

I just decided to take the plunge into onroad racing via a used Yokomo BD8 (with several mods AND omissions.) I'm racing 21.5 to start with and, as I grow more comfortable with the class, I'll eventually want to build a new kit from the ground up (no mods and no omissions.) The way it is now, with the car I currently have or even with Associated, parts are just not available. If I'm going have to source my own parts, then I see zero reason why Tamiya shouldn't be one of my considerations. Problem is navigating through the myriad of options that Tmiya has to offer and that's why I'm here. Price point is $400.00 (or so) - what's in that price-range and how does it compare to the BD8? Thanks in advance! Jon

Like I said, the 80a felt weak as compared to something that was much more expensive when new. Having said that, I would have no problem picking up a Turnigy 120a ESC. Given my needs (2wd buggy) I think it would be plenty of power. I do not have any experience with 4wd RC, so I don't know what you'd start with there. I guess more, right? lol

A buddy uses a stick for air and surface vehicles and I got a chance to try out his rig. The feel was definitely not "natural". As I recall, he had steering on the left and throttle on the right, which is opposite of the usual wheel arraignment. That certainly might have been part of the problem. Anyway, I probably could get used to a stick setup, but thing is, with the wheel, there was never any kind of "getting used to it" process. However, too each his own. People use what they like. :-)

I have experience with Turnigy, specifically the Trackstar 80a ESC and X-motor combo. I think the Gen II that you're talking about is 120a, right? The 80a that I have used is nice and works well, it's just that compared to my older Tekin RS gen 2, it feels very weak. Got the tuning card and that didn't help. If the newer units are indeed 120a, I bet they're probably more than fine for Stock 2WD buggy. I've heard good things about Speed Passion and am considering the Reventon Pro when I build my SC6, or perhaps has an upgrade for the RB6 when I switch it to 4-gear laydown.