loaba

Smurf one-shot #2 is in the books and it's much better than the first go-round. I painted the wing (big no-no in the off-road world) and applied stickers! Thing looks like a car now.

https://www.amainhobbies.com/protoform-pfm10-body-clear-190mm-prm1542-30/p437879 Here's the new shell - it's less "blob" and kinda looks like a real car... Still, it's not what I really want.

It's funny that mentioned vibe - for me it's been quite the opposite. The off-road guys, well the fast ones anyway, were quite cliquish. The on-road guys, fast and slow alike, have all been very helpful. To be fair, off-road is very well established here and on-road is on the process of being reborn. Back to the car/class... How often to do your put your cars on the set-up station? I need a set-up board and droop blocks. Kind of held off as some of this stuff can be quite cost prohibitive!

Our class rules are the motor (like I said above), 190mm body that needs to actually look like some kind of production car (more or less) and USGT tires (what's on the car above). ESC is blinky mode, of course. Makes for really close racing and no one can pass on the straights (usually). All the "racing" is done in the corners, trying to set up for the pass. A lot of the 17.5 buggy guys were thinking about transitioning from outdoor/off-road to indoor/on-road, but balked at running a slow 21.5 motor. Far as I can tell, these things are stupid fast and the 17.5 TC's are faster still! /I am absolutely loving the lack of motor wars // on-road is where it's at!

Associated SC6.1 is out and it's solid - built for racing and tough enough to withstand *bashing. Kyosho RB7 just came out, does this mean that the "SC7" is coming soon? I dunno, but I bet it'll be good when/if it ever shows up. TLR - whatever. Traxxas Slash - we see a few of 'em at the track and good driver can make the car competitive with the LCG chassis. If it were me and I didn't want to wait for a new Kyosho, then I'd run the Associated SC6.1. SC5M was a great car that just didn't support a laydown trans and the 6 fixes that problem. Car should be good on carpet or dirt now, as a result. Here in the states, parts are abundant and plentiful. If you're racing at a track sans Associated support, Petit RC will at least have setup sheets that you can look at. Overall, if racing is what you're after the, SC6.1 is a winner. / *bashing - the SC6.1 probably isn't the best basher, but if keep from running into trees and smashing in to big rocks, it'll likely be just fine.

Jonathon (good name, I spell mine Jonathan) - anyway - track requires Hobbywing 3650 21.5t motor (no timing adjustment) for USGT. I have zero-issue with it and we're starting to get a good field now. 10 guys have these cars/motors, just need 'em to show up. I would love to see less "RC" type paint schemes and more historical racing liveries, but in the end I'll just settle for guys showing up to race. / started out with off-road - totally converted to carpet on-road now.

So been at it for a few weeks now and I'm still slow, but times are going down. Fast guys (17.5, sponsored etc.) are doing the loop in mid 8's. The fast 21.5 guys are getting mid 10's and high 9's and I'm inching my way down with mid-12's. Like I said, the numbers don't lie - I am slow! Anyway - car is still a blast. It's well-planted and I've got tuned for me now. Edit: this is by no means a Yokomo commercial - however, I do hit the wall now and again and this car has proven to be extremely durable! Here's the beast.

In my quest for decent, but not budget-breaking, PC audio I've learned a thing or two. 1. Generally speaking, when you're sitting at the 'puter, that's near-field listening. As such, smaller speakers are fine and 2-channel audio is really all you need. 2. Because smaller speakers provide less bass, subs are really nice if you just have to have that authoritative bass thump. 3. Speakers stands are a must and, at the very least, you need to **** the speakers up (if they're flat on your desk.) 4. External DAC amps are simply awesome. I used to make due with whatever surround sound receiver was laying about and not otherwise in use. Also, I simply HAD to have 3.1 audio (if not 5.1). It was a hard decision to make when I 86'd the center channel! However, by doing so I was able to go away from big-*** appliances on my desk. I'm currently running the very best that China as to offer: S.M.S.L. AD18 DAC/amp connected to a pair of Micca MB42x bookshelf speakers. A Sony sub rounds things out. Sound quality is good and regaining my desk real-estate was equally good!

Raced the Yokomo BD8 for the first time on Saturday. Didn't win and that's okay - I really like 4wd! This is by the far the easiest class I've ever driven. We're racing ozite(sp?)/black carpet and the grip is phenomenal. I don't know if it's because I'm not new to racing or because it's the car or the class, but thing is **** near point-and-click. I am really enjoying the car right now.

Thanks for all the info! These cars (any of 'em) are not cheap. X-ray T4 is $600.00 new, BD9 will be $530.00. Associated (ugh) TC7.2 is $450.00. I mention these cars because based on what you've spent on your TA07, that just seems to be how it goes. I'll be in the BD8 for awhile yet, but I'll definitely look at sourcing/upgrading a TA07 pro or mf. Just seems like Tamiya and onroad racing would be a natural fit. Kinda bummed you either have to send stupid money (900+) for TRF kit or DIY a "lesser" kit...

Pooh rocks, just say'n. The Yokomo is a really nice car, but it's not "my" choice. I did see the TRF419x and I did fall out of my chair at the 1k price-point. I'll check out the TA-07. EDIT: okay - the TA07 really doesn't compare to either the TRF419x or the BD8. That makes me sad, cause the Tamiya is just too much (I could see 500, but not 1k.) :-(

I just decided to take the plunge into onroad racing via a used Yokomo BD8 (with several mods AND omissions.) I'm racing 21.5 to start with and, as I grow more comfortable with the class, I'll eventually want to build a new kit from the ground up (no mods and no omissions.) The way it is now, with the car I currently have or even with Associated, parts are just not available. If I'm going have to source my own parts, then I see zero reason why Tamiya shouldn't be one of my considerations. Problem is navigating through the myriad of options that Tmiya has to offer and that's why I'm here. Price point is $400.00 (or so) - what's in that price-range and how does it compare to the BD8? Thanks in advance! Jon

Like I said, the 80a felt weak as compared to something that was much more expensive when new. Having said that, I would have no problem picking up a Turnigy 120a ESC. Given my needs (2wd buggy) I think it would be plenty of power. I do not have any experience with 4wd RC, so I don't know what you'd start with there. I guess more, right? lol

A buddy uses a stick for air and surface vehicles and I got a chance to try out his rig. The feel was definitely not "natural". As I recall, he had steering on the left and throttle on the right, which is opposite of the usual wheel arraignment. That certainly might have been part of the problem. Anyway, I probably could get used to a stick setup, but thing is, with the wheel, there was never any kind of "getting used to it" process. However, too each his own. People use what they like. :-)

I have experience with Turnigy, specifically the Trackstar 80a ESC and X-motor combo. I think the Gen II that you're talking about is 120a, right? The 80a that I have used is nice and works well, it's just that compared to my older Tekin RS gen 2, it feels very weak. Got the tuning card and that didn't help. If the newer units are indeed 120a, I bet they're probably more than fine for Stock 2WD buggy. I've heard good things about Speed Passion and am considering the Reventon Pro when I build my SC6, or perhaps has an upgrade for the RB6 when I switch it to 4-gear laydown.

It's one half of the kitchen. :-D When the kids move out I'll get a man-cave, but not before. lol

Stock springs on the RB6 are Front Pink (sft) and Rear Gold (med). After perusing setups for various drivers racing tracks like mine, I've determined that I need to go with "medium" front springs. New Kyosho Front Gold buggy springs are $19.99. Spring rate is 3.34. I mean, alright... New AE springs are $4.99 a set and there are two that will work nicely; White 3.3 and Grey 3.45. So, I know the route I'm pretty much forced to take here. Running OEM springs would be nice, but is effectively cost prohibitive. All big-bore springs fit all manufactures big-bore shock bodies, or so I've been told. For 5 bucks, it's worth the initial risk. If these springs are a direct fit I'll make the switch to Avid's extra long rear axels as well. Being able to use AE springs and wheels is a pretty big deal for me.

Perused several RB6 setups last night. Adjusted rear shock position and replaced all 4 corners with 35wt oil.

Got the buggy out on the track for first time last night. Gearing was very conservative on my part @ 31/69. Switched to 33/69 and motor temp never exceeded 105°. Acquired a 34t pinion and that's what I'll use going forward. All the cool kids are running mid-ship 4-gear laydown . I'm running mid-ship 3-gear stand-up. Dirt Webs (indoor, soft) all around feels very good. Moved rear shocks inboard one hole, on the tower. Pink springs front, gold springs rear. Will likely order gold fronts this week. Planning to run AE 35w (425 cst) on all for corners. Overall the car has plenty of steering and traction, I'm just not a competent driver as of yet. I'm comparing apples and oranges here, but the Kyosho feels better than the RC10B5 ever did. Is it an Associated vs. Kyosho thing or a rear-motor vs mid-ship thing? Dunno, just know the RB6.6 handled much better and was easier to drive. I was running Stock 2wd Buggy and getting about 19 sec lap times. That's 4-5 seconds off the leaders and getting lapped 4-5 times. Poor showing but I kept it on 4 wheels the majority of the time. That was really my main goal. I've ID'd a couple of areas where I can be more aggressive and hopefully gain a second or two. I hope I don't sound bitter or disappointed, because I'm not. First time with this car, first time with mid-ship etc. I will figure it out. :-) Notes on Full Throttle Hobby and Raceway Track is hardpack, smooth, indoor clay. The circuit consists a deep double, some minor rhythm sections and few sweeping turns. We also have a 70° (?) vertical turn as well. It's a permanent fixture at this point. I would characterize is it as a fast, tight, course.

Throw 'em away, life's too short to be bogged down with boxes.

Technic is the One True Way.

Yup, should have done a poll! I think this is a very heated a topic, as wheels have already been labeled as "wrong". Heh :-) I bet there are two factors at play here, not least of which is whenever it was that you entered the hobby. Once upon a time it was all stick(s), all the time. Also, I think folks on the other side of the pond probably tend to like stick controllers over the wheeled variety. But, again, having some hard polling (so dirty) data would have been useful. I've used both but definitely get better results with the wheel. American less than 10yrs in the hobby

2014 Subaru XV Crosstrek - we got the orange one...

And here she is!

So which is your preferred means of input control? Stick or wheel? For me, I'm a surface guy and I have zero aspirations of ever flying any RC. So for that reason the modern wheel and trigger controller works well for me. How 'bout you?