DAV 150N
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Posts posted by DAV 150N
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On 4/7/2019 at 2:36 PM, Jason1145 said:
Hi Terry @Frog Jumper
Bet you didn't expect to hear from me so soon with my Black feet!
This op's issue is what I ran into today after only 5 minutes and a couple kerb jumps the rear cvd popped out the diff cup on the motor side.... if you look at the op's first 3 photos that exactly my issue too.
Above you show some parts to stop the dog bone popping out, I think I know two of the parts but what's the 3rd ( gearbox cups and are they needed?)
1) Frog dog bones 9808038
2) Frog Wheel axles 9808039
I am a bit frustrated this has happened after I resigned myself to mollycoddling this BF with (just) a silvercan motor in an attempt to avoid gearbox clicking, but to now have this other issue occur - hmmmm I'm not sure how much I want to invest into a slow turkey like this... although I did enjoy the 5minutes with it seeing it land the kerbs!
The cheapest fix fix for this is to limit the rear shock travel to stop the angle getting so high that it can let the dog bone out the cup... I can't even put o rings in as it's a CVD
Anyone else had recent fixes for this?
I bought this 3 piece including cups on eBay as a set. In the process of building and rebuilding trying to fix originally I noticed one of the screws on the P plate was stripped. Larger screw has fixed that and with this set my son has been running for a year with no problems, even runs it with an 80s Gold endurance from my Celica with no problem (other than handling!).
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Thanks zakspeed. I was wondering about spacing the drive ups with something but I was not sure if this would compromise the gearbox. I had not noticed/realised it was not central. Hopefully a combination of everyone's ideas will make the marginal difference I think is needed..
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Thanks Jupitertwo, I'll check that again too!
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Thanks khyzersoze. Hadn't seen that will check it out.
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Ok, should I start a new Tamiya Blackfoot 2016 re-release problem page?
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Hi all, old thread but hopefully someone can help. Did not want to duplicate.
Just joined up today and have exactly the same problem, same side, literally could be pics of my sons re-re Blackfoot he got for Christmas. On chassis test drive it popped out, run twice more, but not run for more than 2 mins without popping out. 3 days building/thinking/rebuilding/thinking/building, less than 5 mins driving, very disappointed son. Never had a problem like this.
So far have rebuilt gearbox a couple of times in case it was sticking and causing it to pop out. Looked at suspension it's just under 90mm at full length, but just under 80mm on original, so rebuilt original style suspension with G Parts tree that comes with the re re to reduce the angle, which is better when back at just under 80mm, but turned the wheels by hand and still pops straight out. Did not bother running it.... Rusty Tamiya knowledge spent....
So....is it P plates and Brat dog bones and axels I need? How do I get the right parts now? When i last needed to do this it was 1980 something and you went into the shop and spoke to an 'oracle' who ordered your parts, told you if he thought you were wrong, and phoned you a few weeks later when they arrived in the shop.
Appreciate any help!
Adam
Blackfoot 2016 - CV and Driveline Issues - HELP!
in Re-Release Discussions
Posted
Yes, I was right on the instruction measurements etc and I was still close to the edge as soon as it was on the floor holding its own weight. The new screw stiffened it up, but still popped within a minute of driving that was not rough by any means. Compared it to my original BF which gave me zero problems and just seems to have much more travel than the original. Interchanged the suspension which made it a bit better, but still week. Went back to 2016 re re suspension as I want to keep the original BF totally original. So I decided to opt for the frog/brat re re set. Total fix, wish I did it sooner. Few weeks of faffing and disappointment for my son and then £20 and 24hrs later was running how it should have done from the start.