Munchbox

Love it! Could be applied to other cars with off center servos as well.

See this is why I asked. I thought positive offset would mean that as the wheel sits on the car the closer you push the wheel hub towards the car, the more offset it would have and the more track width you would have. It seems like thats what you guys are saying but the graphic that mastino posted looks the other way around. To me that graphic says that positive offset means the hub is further away from the car meaning that the wheel is pulled in closer (less track width). Logically speaking it seems to me that this means the wheels and tires would be more likely to rub on some part of the chassis (c hub, spindle, etc.) So which is it? I know that my Blackfoot wheels have the hubs almost at the inner edge of the wheel. My Lunchbox wheels are much closer to the middle of the wheel, which is why they wont fit on the Blackfoot (they rub the Blackfoots comically large c hubs). So do the Blackfoot wheels have positive or negative offset in relation to the Lunchbox?

So it would be a safe assumption to make that a car that has stock 0 offset wheels will be fine with aftermarket wheels with an offset of 6mm and simply that the car will be, overall, 12mm wider? Does this mean that all positive offset wheels should be ok on most 0 offset cars, and that anything with a negative offset could be problematic due to rubbing?

I understand that a wheel with offset, usually in mm, means that the hex hub inside is set off to one side of the center. But which side is it? In thinking about how to ask this question I realize there are many confusing ways to ask and answer. So I'll ask the simplest way I can think of; if you use a set of 6mm offset wheels will the track width be wider or narrower than with 0 offset wheels?

If you buy it rtr, you can drive it. If you buy a kit you can build it and drive it. Either way you can choose to drive, but only one offers the option to build. Options are good.

Sometimes I get an offer and I think to myself "for that price I might as well keep it!" Im not really into the collecting aspect of rc though. It's weird. I'm interested in building and trying a lot of the models I see on here, but I know that soon after I will be over that car and on to something else. It would be great if I could work out the logistics of building a kit with a decent budget radio, ESC, battery and charger and resell it as rtr to recoup the money. That way I could build myself into oblivion, keep the cars I really end up liking and not worry about spending on stuff that's going to sit around or resell for beans.

Ha I know right. I guess my main problem is accepting a fraction of the cost of what I spent on the items. I guess that's sort of an on topic point to make; don't buy stuff expecting it to hold any real value and don't be surprised when all you can get are offers much lower than what you expected. In general, for me, any offer is better than no offer at all.

**** you guys are good at this! Will someone please sell my vintage Blackfoot and my HPI Wheely King for me!! I'm great at buying stuff my problem is I'm not nearly as good at selling off the unnecessary stuff later on..

GS I was just doing a little reading trying to find where I read that and I found a thread where they mention flipping the front and rear suspension arms over on a wr02 chassis to get the correct wheelbase for a cw01 body. It also says the same could be done with the 4wd gf01 chassis if the front driveshafts could be made to fit with the flipped arms. Imagine a 4wd, double wish bone Lunchbox on a real Tamiya chassis... Drool........

Im going to have to second (or third) the Lunchbox idea. Great car, extremely durable. You could probably run the thing for years on a sport tuned motor and never break a thing, save for body mounts. Not sure if it's true or not but I recall reading somewhere that the WW chassis can be extended to provide multiple wheelbase lengths. A stretched wheelbase WW chassis with a Lunchbox theme could be cool.

I found a set on eBay that came on the slow boat from China. They fit well enough for government work and didn't cost an arm and a leg. That wait though.. can't these guys paddle a little faster?

Glad you got it figured out. I might switch down to the 17t pinion in my Dt03 too. It should get my temps down enough to run in 100f+ weather and make everything last longer.

I think it's also worth noting that while the tble02s gets the job done for me I don't think it's the end all be all of escs, if there is such a thing. Its tuned very conservatively so you'll not really see the full potential of your brushless motor. This also means that you'll see little difference between NIMH and 2s lipo (it still lacks that noticeable lipo throttle punch). I think both escs are pretty decent considering the price. I prefer the tble02s because I prefer brushless motors. I think that Nobbi has it right; if you want to stay brushed get a 1060. If you want to go brushless get a tble02s.

I run a dt03 with knobby rear buggy tires (racing/neo fighter), 19t pinion and a 10.5 turn brushless on a tble02s and NIMH. The ESC and motor run hot but I've only hit the thermal limiter on days over 100f ambient. Brushless is worlds beyond brushed. Better efficiency, more torque, more speed, more run time and in your case, more importantly, less heat and less maintenance.

Try stepping down to the 17t pinion if you're using the 19t. What ESC are you using? Are you on stock tires? Any other mods? What kind of battery? What kind of terrain are we talking about: grass, gravel, asphalt, sand?

Yes, both my brushless motors 2400kv, 3600kv have loads more torque, better runtimes and run much cooler than similar brushed counterparts that the replaced. GS I've always used the flat head piston rods that come with the kit, is there really a big difference from 1 hole to 2 hole to 3? Which did you choose for your truck?

Is it possible you're putting the speed control into thermal rather than overheating the motor? What exactly is happening when you say overheating?

I dunno I actually really like my tble02s. MyLunchbox is ridiculous on a 2400kv motor, 18 tooth Hornet pinion and has never overheated. My dt03 has loads more power than a 2wd car can handle in the conditions I usually run (loose sand, dry) on a 3600kv motor and 19 tooth pinion. It has overheated once but the ambient temperature was over 100 degrees F that day. Both would undoubtedly do even better on lipo, a problem which is easily solved with a $3 lipo alarm. Run times have been great with the brushless motors.. can't say much for 3s but both cars will do ~30mph on nimh 6 cell (3000mah) and get run times over 40 mins on the buggy and almost an hour on the Lunchbox. Of course, the brushless motors don't get as hot or require the maintenance that a good low turn brushed will give you!

One of my first runs out with my stock DT03 (torque tuned, 19t pinion, NIMH) I cracked the chassis under the front shock tower. A few months later I managed to melt and more or less obliterate the stock motor mounting holes after half a run with my new brushless motor (3600kv, NIMH). I've heard of multiple guys breaking the rear arm mounts off the gearbox with normal operation as well. The dt03 is a fun car but I think it's value lies in driving it stock with a hopup motor or brushless setup. Diminishing returns from slight performance increases and still breaking other random parts sort of thing.

So is it pretty safe to say that a 3650 is a direct replacement for a 540 and a 3660 is a direct replacement for a 550 motor? I know I've seen a 550 Titan motor in a tto2b before..

Very cool. It seems like your center of gravity is already pretty low for a monster truckish sort of vehicle. I know on the Stampede and Ecx Ruckus both have battery and all riding much higher than you do now. Yours is more like a Stadium truck with monster tires. I'm looking for something similar with mine. It seems that SCT stance has the articulation and travel of a Stadium truck but the low c of g of a buggy and then set the sag to about halfway in between for ride height and you're off. Back on topic, I can't wait to see a video of this thing, sounds like a handful!

Looks great! The detail is amazing! Whatever happened to the 4wd WW project you mentioned earlier in this thread?

Yes lots of good info there. Stinky - any chance you've clocked a top speed for this yet? I'm imagining something similar to what you've done here but with some of these tires https://m.ebay.com/itm/US-4Pcs-RC-1-10-Short-Course-Truck-Tires-Wheel-12mm-Hex-For-TRAXXAS-SlASH-Car/202058336173 and a Nissan Titan dt02 shell. Think 4wd 1/12 Tamiya SCT - Traxxas Slash chaser sort of thing. Sounds like you've got loads of low end torque but I wonder what the top end is like with the 3660 @ 3300kv.

Yes yellow to yellow, blue to green for the ESC to motor leads. I forget what the manual says but it seems like I followed it and they were connected wrong initially as well. Should be a simple thing...

That would've worked if they hadn't stopped me!