Munchbox

Lunchbox Lunchbox Lunchbox. It has a bomb proof gearbox and the rest of the car is nearly invincible. Plus it does wheelies and is a great head turner, especially around other RC guys "hey cool look at that van!!!!" Some planning and a few mods will fix the rollover. Mine does close to 30mph and can do a handbrake turn at full speed on asphalt without lifting tires off the ground. Actually it's more of a 540 degree spin than a handbrake turn hahaha.

Just giving you a hard time mud.. my original comment was more of a poke at myself than at you anyway.. hahaha

I've tried double sided Velcro.. not so great.. ok for a couple runs but it wears out quickly and never gets a great bite on whatever you're adhering. Double sided is cool but seems to get dust and dirt inside and work it's way free. My brother is using Shoe Goo and you can pick up his 4x4 Ecx Torment by the speed control and swing it around. Supposedly it comes off easily with a bit of heat.. I assume a blow dryer?

This will work for me. I'll throw in couple of bent body pins and a puffed up Lipo battery

Mud, gift it to Dave and I'll sell ya this vintage Blackfoot I never should have bought... Hahaha

Ah yeah, speaking matter of factly I haven't been using the little washer thing that goes on the motor for insulation... Can't see that this is my problem though, motor was hardly warm to the touch when it ripped free..

The mounting screws were set in the motor with blue lock Tite when I installed the motor. Had over 12 hours to set before I ran it. I wonder if the lock Tite got onto the gearbox where the screws mount and softened the plastic and the heat and torque from the motor made it rip through

Mine came loose on the torque tuned as well. But this pulled the motor mounting screws through the gearbox. The mounting screws for the motor are still in the motor and the mounting holes are blown out and broken. I'd take pics but I don't even want to look at it right now...

Today I ran my dt03 Racing Fighter at the track for the first time with the new 3600kv motor. Halfway through the first battery I lost power, upon inspection the motor has ripped itself free of the mounting holes and fallen out of the car. I know this wasn't too much power or heat. The motor wasn't even hot. My setup is tble02s, Hobbystar 10.5t 3600kv brushless, 19t pinion, 3000mah NIMH battery. Shocks set for the tallest ride height and otherwise stock. I can't figure it out. Before I bought it everyone was praising the DT03 for it's hardiness. 2 weeks after I bought it I cracked the front of the chassis and now I have to rebuild the entire gearbox after only a couple months since I first built it? I feel like I do run my cars hard but I don't know about this.

Kinda random assorted but.. Pinions between Lunchbox and Hornet are interchangeable if you want a really slow Hornet or really fast Lunchbox. The Lunchbox runs great with a set of MB2015/BF2016 oil shocks with the front and rear springs swapped. Blitzer Beetle/Stadium Blitzer wheels will fit a King Blackfoot. Original Blackfoot wheels will fit Lunchbox. That's about all I can dig up right now, I'm still pretty new to all this

I have a Futaba 3prka and a cheap goolrc radio for my 2 cars. The Futaba is a really nice feeling controller and has great response. I like it a lot more than the goolrc which broke after a couple weeks and required some modification to get it running reliably again. I've tried the flysky gt2b and a couple of Spektrum radios. The Spektrum are top notch but I seem to recall they lacked a couple of features (throttle limiter comes to mind). I really like the flysky as well. Packed with features, cheap and performs well. If my next car isn't a rtr I'll probably go flysky.

I run Tenergy 3000mah nimh and charge them with a prophet sport charger plus. Good run times ~45 mins on a stock Lunchbox and charging wise you can abuse the crap out of them. I think I paid $35 for 2 on Amazon.

With a ~30mph Lunchbox myself I'm interested in the 4 link rear end. If you're confident that the Ampro front end can handle wrecks at that kind of speed I'll order that up right now too. Bearing in mind that is like a 1:1 car crashing at 360 mph hahaha

Goolrc combos are cheap and cheerful around $40-45 for the motor/ESC combo set with programming card. And they go all the way up to 4370kv (zoom zoom!) Brushless is just a great way to go, you'll get better runtimes, less heat and more torque. My Lunchbox was going 30-35 mins on a 3000mah nimh on the silver can and now does 45-50 mins on a 2400kv brushless.

Run aluminum hex adapters. I put a set of Shootout 110mm tires on my Dt03 and all but vaporized the hexes on it. Aluminum should fix that. But then you will really have to keep an eye on your wheel nuts. If they start to loosen up during a run you have a great chance of stripping the wheel itself.

Build quality and hardiness don't seem to be issues for me. I run my cars hard which is why they suffer from breakages. Overall I've very much enjoyed my experience with Tamiya. I guess my #1 gripe with Tamiya is the lack of newer models. It would be great to have a current gen monster truck, SCT or stadium truck. It seems like the offerings they have for these, while still available, are still an old chassis design that doesn't run well beside current gen trucks. Of course I'm new to the whole rc hobby so that may be why I feel this way. I am looking outside of Tamiya (HPI) for my next model and frankly I wouldn't be if Tamiya offered something more performance oriented in this form of model.

Brushless motors like that have a ton of torque, the sound you're hearing is the internals of the motor turning and is perfectly natural. I've found a little toe out to be a good thing on my buggy but too much could be parasitic to the drivetrain and wear your tires more quickly. Take the turnbuckles off and measure them against the diagram for setting up the stock ones in the manual. My shocks are the bonus oil filled cvas included in the kit, setup per the manual. They measure 93mm (center to center of the eyelets) and have both the large and medium preloaders installed. I run a single large preloader on the front. None of the shocks have spacers inside the shock body so they have 100% travel.

I was running a 10kg Rage RC in mine. All metal gear, double ball bearing servo for about $10. Very nice unit to begin with. I came down hard and knocked one of the ic chips off the logic board. All 8 solder joints busted hahaha. Now I'm trying a 15kg Qunqi for $12. Same all metal gear and double ball bearings. So far so good.

I like my 5th shock. I re did it when I replaced my gearbox last time. It seems to have mellowed out the rear end a lot.. I will say that you have to be careful not to cut too deep or you'll open the gearbox to dirt and debris to sneak in through where the shock attaches.

To be a little more clear. We're at a sandy dirt track, very unofficial and just playing about. None of us are great drivers and of course that is a huge factor but skill level is close across the board. I'm running with a couple of Losi buggies; a Ten scbe and a Rock Rey and a TT02b and my buggy is right up there with em. The main difference is that the 2 Losis are shooting twice as far off the jumps as the 2 Tamiya cars.

Don't write off the DT03 so easily. It's a tough as nails buggy, straight forward but enjoyable build and I'm keeping up with 4wd cars 4-5x it's price at the track. And they're running plenty more kv than I am. It cant be the best out there to be sure but at the price point it's absolutely stellar.

I'm running the GPM adapters as well and they do bind the wheels when fully tightened. After backing off the nut a little they seem to work great but I wonder if they are putting extra stress on the uprights via leverage. Otherwise they seem like a good product and I can't imagine them wearing out. Of course these changes also included a wheels change up front to a slightly wider wheel and all terrain tires which was the purpose of the adapters to begin with. I had to adjust my servo to limit the turning as I was binding the inside wheel in turns. A quick EPA adjustment sorted it.. Is it possible that TT02B uprights could work? I'm not sure what they look like..

Does having a high torque (10kg/cm or higher) metal gear servo in a car make it more likely to break parts in a front end crash? How about having front hex adapters on the front wheels? The reason I ask is that I turned up with a bent front upright on my last run (which turned into a broken upright when I tried to bend it back. That never happened with the old setup.

My brother ran that combo in his EcX Ruckus for 5-6 months. It was pretty quick, cheap and cheerful sort of thing. Personally I think 4370kv is a bit much for a dt03.

Point well made and taken. It was about the time I was mounting my rebuild gearbox on my Lunchbox that I realized I'm pretty tough on my cars. My dt03 has mystery crack in the front of the chassis after owning it for less than 3 months and the Lunchbox has a freshly rebuilt rear end because I blew out both rear shock mounts (both the mounts and where they attach to the gearbox). I've had it just shy of 6 months. This is on NIMH for both cars too. I've had a 2400kv brushless in both cars but nothing faster than that. Gearing has always been tall however (19t dt03, 18t hornet pinion on Lunchbox). I've considered other brands (ecx, Losi) but they don't seem as robust as my simpler Tamiyas. The DT03 takes a beating every time out getting run over by SCTs and trying to keep up with trucks 4-5 times it's price. Then there's the nigh on bomb proof Lunchbox...