martinjpayne

PM'd you.

Yes, providing you don't go to 3S batteries. I guess you're using 7.2V Nimh stick packs as you sound old skool. 😆 Still, it probably would be cheaper in the long run to use the BEC module (tucked out of site) as it's only one car you're renovating to original condition, rather than change to new radio kit. Be aware the Absima R4WP Rx is A.F.H.D.S.2 not A.F.H.D.S. like the R3FS Rx you use: your Tx may not be compatible.

Some do have built in BEC, usually the more pro kit (expensive) ones though: Futaba 'HV', Sanwa, Graupner (which I use). For more reasonably priced kit look at the Turnigy GT5... also look for 4.8-7.4V (eg. Absima R4WP) or BEC on the front. Best really to research the specs of the Rx before buying new kit.

You need to fit an external BEC between the MSC and the Receiver: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hobbywing-3A-UBEC-5V-6V-Switch-Mode-BEC/221655594331?hash=item339bb3f55b:g:EyUAAOSw6j9esBP4

Yes, the BEC reduces the voltage from the main battery pack to 6V (to replicate a 4 AA cell Rx battery from the old days). The fact is your receiver states 4.8-6.6V on the label, and you just plugged in 7.2V from the MSC!

These the puppies you need? PM me your address and I'll stick them in an envelope to you. 👍

You couldn't do worse than a set of these for that old school look... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/EZRL2130-Cerchi-Escort-RS/162443169430

I've been using these on both soft and reinforced plastics, instead of the Tamiya thread forming tap (which I also own), for the last 15 months with no problems... put a fresh dab of Vaseline on the tip (I keep a lip salve tin on my workbench for this) before cutting a thread and clean with a brass wire brush when they start to clog. The advantage is I can easily do ball connectors for turnbuckles with the left-hand thread. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Select-Variations-M1-2-to-M22-HSS-Right-Hand-Thread-Forming-Tap-for-Aluminum-/113917056796?var=&hash=item1a85fc571c https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Select-Variations-M2-to-M16-HSS-Left-Hand-Thread-Forming-Tap-for-Aluminum-/123932650618?var=&hash=item1cdaf62c7a You'll want them in M3 x 0.5 size.

Warning sticker for resistor is upside down?

More importantly, why an M class chassis (with a wheelbase of 239mm) when it should be an 180mm wide body on a 257mm touring car chassis? "The GR Yaris is 3995mm long and 1805mm wide, with a wheelbase of 2558mm. The front track is 1530mm and the rear track is 1560mm." https://www.autocar.co.uk/car-news/new-cars/toyota-gr-yaris-hot-hatch-2020

So what happens if you fit the centre one way with the bearing reversed? Rear two wheel drive with four wheel braking?

No, again that is colour coded for insulated red, blue and yellow connectors. It is just a cheap pressed steel equivalent of your ratchet crimps. You need to look for a "JX 1601-08" crimp tool or die head. The "-08" part signifies the style of head. Alternately, go old school and buy this... https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Tamiya-Snap-Connector-Set-50245-SP-245-Crimping-tool-RARE-NIB-never-used/264721167792?hash=item3da29c75b0:g:5DgAAOSwHP5ediUH Just squeeze the tool in a pair of pliers. Make sure you buy the vintage one as modern sets don't include the tool!

Yes, that is the wrong tool, it's for insulated red, blue or yellow connectors (hence the colours on the die). You need a tool to crimp non-insulated open barrel connectors.

Now, what about changing the pinion/spur combo to Mod 0.6? A TB05 63T spur on a Hi-Speed Gear Centre from a TT02 and a 28T pinion may fit under the gear cover and would give an FDR of 6.88, better than the current best FDR of 7.16. It's got to be worth a try to get a handful more kph. 🤷‍♂️ Just trying to think outside the box...

And a 75 tooth spur for the DF03Ra...