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martinjpayne

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About martinjpayne

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  • Birthday 03/30/1964

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    Portsmouth, UK

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  1. I strip, clean and lightly oil all my bearings from new before fitting. Bearings fully enclosed in gearboxes have both shields removed and all others only have rubber shields on outer faces. Back in the eighties I always used unshielded bearings all round and flushed them with WD40 between heats, binning them after a days racing. (I used to get them cheap from a local engineering bearing supplier.)
  2. Buy a roll of DYMO plastic label tape, and use it as a self adhesive straight edge... it will give you a firm edge to score along.
  3. @Matty36 Where in the UK did you get the Overdose spring body posts? I can't find them anywhere.
  4. I use Edding 780. Same paint as 750 but with an extra-fine nib.
  5. If the decals still have some sticky you could try 3M Primer 94 (adhesion promotor for car wrap vinyls).
  6. You could try 3M Spray Mount aerosol adhesive on the back of the decal?
  7. I believe the reference to XV-01 is as the best source of swaybars for fitting to your Type-S.
  8. In Kyosho nomenclature 'S' is Speed, 'T' is Torque (and 'E' is Endurance). Like @matman says, are the screw positions on the end bell different to change the motor timing? We need to know!
  9. @whahooo I don't know the number of turns (someone else may chime in) but you can always try a Team Powers 540 Stock Cup Racer motor: 24000rpm and only £12. Cheaper if you buy one with last years approvals. https://www.team-powers.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=59_61 I've read online they work okay with TEU-104 and -105BK ESC's so expect 'Stock' means 23T or 25T with fixed timing advance.
  10. Looks like a genuine Tamiya part, bag and sticky label (for 98xx parts) with a shops own header card added for convenience of display. I wonder how similar the packing and parts from Tony will look...
  11. Yes, providing you don't go to 3S batteries. I guess you're using 7.2V Nimh stick packs as you sound old skool. 😆 Still, it probably would be cheaper in the long run to use the BEC module (tucked out of site) as it's only one car you're renovating to original condition, rather than change to new radio kit. Be aware the Absima R4WP Rx is A.F.H.D.S.2 not A.F.H.D.S. like the R3FS Rx you use: your Tx may not be compatible.
  12. Some do have built in BEC, usually the more pro kit (expensive) ones though: Futaba 'HV', Sanwa, Graupner (which I use). For more reasonably priced kit look at the Turnigy GT5... also look for 4.8-7.4V (eg. Absima R4WP) or BEC on the front. Best really to research the specs of the Rx before buying new kit.
  13. You need to fit an external BEC between the MSC and the Receiver: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hobbywing-3A-UBEC-5V-6V-Switch-Mode-BEC/221655594331?hash=item339bb3f55b:g:EyUAAOSw6j9esBP4
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