martinjpayne

@speedy_w_beans Thanks, though he doesn't sell to the UK I now know exactly what to look for from other suppliers.

@speedy_w_beans Thanks for the reply, I'm also looking forward to seeing your results. Have you got a link to the exact model you bought... I know BangGood, TomTop and even Amazon sell them, but the same model number can be supplied from multiple companies at different spec. levels, and I don't want to get one which still has all the shortcomings you mentioned! Thanks, Martin.

@speedy_w_beans Are those CNC engravers any good for cutting FRP, GRP or Carbon Fibre sheet? i.e. shock towers, battery straps etc. Thanks, Martin.

Adjustable suspension using TA-05 Arms and turn-buckles, metal dogbones and outdrives, oil filled cva dampers, frp damper mounts, ball bearings, torque tuned motor...

Tamico got the TT-02S on sale at the moment: https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=78806&lang=eng

Great, I got some of that in my chemicals cupboard. 😎

Thanks for that advice, an impact adhesive like Evo-Stik or similar?

Ha! First problem with my Rock Socker screwing on the beadlocks, 10 screws per side, 20 screws per wheel: First wheel cracked at 10 of the screw holes on the outer side, 1 on the rear side! HUH? Second wheel cracked at 5 of the screw holes on the outer side!! STOP! THINK! What am I doing wrong? I'm using the correct screws and tightening them according to the diagram in the manual... Digital vernier out and measure the holes at 1.70 to 1.72mm diameter, above the 1.6mm diameter tapping hole, but I believe the holes are tapered to allow the mould pin removal and narrower than 1.6mm diameter so crack at the bottom when the screw is inserted. They are also deeper on the rear of the wheel so less likely to crack. Solution... drill out all holes with a 1.85mm diameter pcb drill, use M2x8 machine screws instead of self-tappers, and pre-thread the holes before assembly. SORTED! Though I just might've had a set of wheels that are more brittle than normal? 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️ And I've got to buy two new wheels. 🤬🤬

I, personally, don't really get the 'RC shelf queen' mentality having only one model I'm loath to run: a DF-03MS. Bought NiB, built it (cos that's what they're made for) and ran two packs through it on our local BMX track, then stripped and rebuilt it replacing all damaged parts... and there were lots! It's now like new and just gathering dust until I sell it on to someone who will cherish it. All my other cars get used and abused, cleaned, then go back on top of the bookcases where no one gets close enough to see the scars! After all, ultimately they are toys made to be played with: not fine art to be worshipped from a distance. I try to make them look reasonably realistic with drivers, real schemes etc. but wouldn't go as far as @Truck Norris detail wise as they just gotta be run! I'm not knocking you guys who collect, it's just we have a different mindset. (Anyway, if it wasn't for the collectors where would all the NiB vintage kits come from?)

Anniversary present from my wife, a steal at £209 inc. postage, and delivered in 48 hours from Tamico:

My wedding anniversary present from my darling wife:

Ha! Don't know how, but you guys have convinced me that I need a CR-01: my wife is now buying me a Rock Socker for our wedding anniversary present! She says I need a car that I can run anywhere without fear of damaging it... 😮

@daddycool Also consider the fitment of the motor into the DF-03 Dark Impact chassis: the orientation of the three power leads to the side of the can on the first two motors may cause interference problems in the enclosed motor plate/rear gearbox, but on the Speed Passion they point straight out the back of the motor and can be routed easier.

Oh My God! I'd kill for the bodyshells of the 1/10 BMW M1 and Porsche 924. Thanks for sharing these scans. 👍

Next question, can anyone recommend a yellow paint that is more golden than PS-6 Yellow but not as orange as PS-19 Camel Yellow. Any views on Humbrol or Revell acrylic spray? Thanks in advance.