martinjpayne

I use one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-22410-Mini-Tube-Cutter/dp/B001KOTNMQ/ref=pd_sbs_60_img_1/257-5604630-7309263?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001KOTNMQ&pd_rd_r=c0b31c01-bebc-4b0b-ac21-f726b1ec84a8&pd_rd_w=2H58b&pd_rd_wg=MVHT9&pf_rd_p=e44592b5-e56d-44c2-a4f9-dbdc09b29395&pf_rd_r=RZ557Y67DCFF0DFWKZD8&psc=1&refRID=RZ557Y67DCFF0DFWKZD8 Pics... Just tighten and rotate post, tighten and rotate post until the end falls off. Takes less than a minute. Hope this helps.

@Moonraker1 If you still need the three pin resistor, I've got a brand new sealed "Tamiya 50294 0.2Ω Ceramic Resistor (Three Terminal)" I can stick in the post to you.

Used to use Metcal and Pace before I retired from the defence industry. Can't justify those sort of prices for home use, so have successfully used one of these for the last couple of years: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0719H8T8Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a pack of these tips: https://www.amazon.co.uk//gp/product/B017A1ZJSY/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could try a brush of "3M Primer 94 Adhesion Promoter" on the bodyshell to help the decals original glue stick firmer. https://www.amazon.co.uk/3M-Primer-Pint-Wrapping-Application/dp/B0088P1LNY Read the reviews. https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B0088P1LNY/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_cmps_btm?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews You can get smaller amounts, both on Amazon or eBay.

I see you’ve got caught by the sunshine yellow cap, as opposed to the Red Leicester Cheese coloured paint. It’s not just me, then!

Tamico.de still got them in stock... Bodyshell: https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=8604&lang=eng Rear Wing: https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=3523&lang=eng

I've successfully used Fairy Power Spray (oven cleaner) to remove chrome from Tamiya two-part wheels, though you've got to be aware that a clear primer may be used under the plating and this is more difficult to remove without scrubbing and soaking in bleach!

Revell Paint Remover and Tamiya Polycarbonate Cleaner are essentially the same thing. 1-Methoxy 2-Propanol (PGME) and n-Butyl Acetate (BuAcO) are the active solvents in both, with the Tamiya probably a bit stronger at 95% PGME:5% BuAcO versus Revell at 90% PGME:10% BuAcO. (info gleaned from respective manufacturers MSDS)

@Superluminal Yes, when I read this post half an hour ago I tried it on my "colour test" lexan body and cleaned off some Tamiya PS19 Camel Yellow I sprayed about three months ago... and with a piece of white paper behind to show clarity... Hope this helps.

I've had success with Revell 39617 Paint Remover. Easy to get in the UK: https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/products/revell-paint-remover-100ml/ or check your local Hobbycraft.

@Busdriver https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Alloy-Soldering-Station-Jig-Aid-Deans-Mini-T-XT60-XT90-2-10mm-Bullet-Connector/272022024024?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Tamiya sell clear hole reinforcing discs: https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/54785/index.htm

A soldering iron of 60W or greater is an asset, but more importantly is using a decent 60/40 tin/lead rosin cored solder (not rubbish from China but a good brand like Multicore), a liquid rosin flux (I use MG Chemicals #835) and making sure your iron tip is hot enough (minimum 330ºC/626ºF) I just pulled out my old 48W soldering iron and wired up an XT60 with 14awg silicon wire with no problems whatsoever in just a few minutes.

@Busdriver XT60 connectors. Best ones are made by Amass and are XT60 Plus version with the insulating cap as fitted to your ESC (no need for heat shrink), sold in bags of five pairs: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/new-xt60plus-with-insulating-end-cap-5set-bag.html 40W iron will probably work but use a liquid rosin flux to aid solder flow.

@speedy_w_beans Thanks, though he doesn't sell to the UK I now know exactly what to look for from other suppliers.