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About martinjpayne

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  • Birthday 03/30/1964

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  1. Yes, looks like they're from the TT-01D. Part number 51217.
  2. @Superluminal scroll down to page 18: OPTIONS https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/58450tt01r_e.pdf
  3. G6 is just a part to stop you damaging the end of the axle tube when you hammer it into the gearbox half. It is removable and used twice then disposed of... see picture at left hand side of picture 2.
  4. @LeftyAl You shouldn't have this problem with a TT02B as the equivalent part A14 is held in place with shorter screws from the get-go, as the lower arms are held on with a u-shaped rod.
  5. Probably a long shot, but when assembling the lower arms you didn't temporarily hold part A9 in position with the the bumper screws MA4, to help fit the MA5 screw that holds it all together? Doing this can form a pimple of plastic inside the gearbox which interferes with the diff ring gear! (speaking from experience, on several models ).
  6. I find that I can't edit in Safari on iPadOS 13.2.3 on either of my iPads in landscape mode due to the flickering, but if I reorientate into portrait mode, the edit function works fine. This suggests to me that the site is optimised for phone users.
  7. Maybe it's down to commonality of parts? The Bigwig and the Boomerang are from a large family of cars, all similar but evolving over time: development costs are minimal for each new model and many chassis parts are shared, whilst the Wild One and Fox are pretty much one-offs, dead ends: all the r&d and manufacturing costs have to be recovered solely from selling quantities of these cars.
  8. I use one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-22410-Mini-Tube-Cutter/dp/B001KOTNMQ/ref=pd_sbs_60_img_1/257-5604630-7309263?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001KOTNMQ&pd_rd_r=c0b31c01-bebc-4b0b-ac21-f726b1ec84a8&pd_rd_w=2H58b&pd_rd_wg=MVHT9&pf_rd_p=e44592b5-e56d-44c2-a4f9-dbdc09b29395&pf_rd_r=RZ557Y67DCFF0DFWKZD8&psc=1&refRID=RZ557Y67DCFF0DFWKZD8 Pics... Just tighten and rotate post, tighten and rotate post until the end falls off. Takes less than a minute. Hope this helps.
  9. @Moonraker1 If you still need the three pin resistor, I've got a brand new sealed "Tamiya 50294 0.2Ω Ceramic Resistor (Three Terminal)" I can stick in the post to you.
  10. Used to use Metcal and Pace before I retired from the defence industry. Can't justify those sort of prices for home use, so have successfully used one of these for the last couple of years: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0719H8T8Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a pack of these tips: https://www.amazon.co.uk//gp/product/B017A1ZJSY/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  11. You could try a brush of "3M Primer 94 Adhesion Promoter" on the bodyshell to help the decals original glue stick firmer. https://www.amazon.co.uk/3M-Primer-Pint-Wrapping-Application/dp/B0088P1LNY Read the reviews. https://www.amazon.com/product-reviews/B0088P1LNY/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_cmps_btm?ie=UTF8&reviewerType=all_reviews You can get smaller amounts, both on Amazon or eBay.
  12. I see you’ve got caught by the sunshine yellow cap, as opposed to the Red Leicester Cheese coloured paint. It’s not just me, then!
  13. Tamico.de still got them in stock... Bodyshell: https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=8604&lang=eng Rear Wing: https://tamico.de/navi.php?a=3523&lang=eng
  14. I've successfully used Fairy Power Spray (oven cleaner) to remove chrome from Tamiya two-part wheels, though you've got to be aware that a clear primer may be used under the plating and this is more difficult to remove without scrubbing and soaking in bleach!
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