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About _oliK

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  1. Yeah Buyee tends to get expensive. But it's got some cool stuff and while I do feel bad about having some rubbish i bought shipped halfway around the globe, sometimes it's cheaper. Everything under 20 Euros is free of customs fees in the EU, so it can be lucrative to order cheap stuff in Japan, even if shipping is expensive. It's always a calculation and a headache, though. And don't bid 70 Euros on a VeilSide gear knob. That might seem cheap but it going to bite you in the behind. Apparently drunken bidding can also happen when you're sober.
  2. Wow. That really is a time capsule! A Mini M-01 was the first RC car I ever built from the ground up, and my brother had a Grasshopper 2. Amazing scoop!
  3. These Tech Racing three spokes are so amazing! Here are some (only some) of my top picks: The classic Tamiya mesh wheels in black, as seen on the ProMarkt Mercedes: Prolly the first wheel I ever fell in love with. I remember them from my dad's TA-02, hey would just black out the whole wheel arches like an endless void, absolutely sick. Also, the Ford Mondeo wheels. Super weird, super cool. Recently got these Scale Dynamics Watanabe RS8s, super crisp casting and details, perfect gun metal finish. Standard size outer diameter with small wheel size and integrated tyre side wall. Speed Star Racing MKII, by Surging RC. My favourite real wheel in M-Chassis scale.
  4. Then maybe the battery in the center is indeed the way to go. I imagine that would make it very agile.
  5. Check out the Yokomo YD-2, it's all the rage in drifting now and they got some good ideas for getting traction to the rear(If you're on hard plastic tyres but wnat to be quick, you need every trick in the book). They also used a 2WD buggy tranny with the motor spinning towards the back of the car to use the inertia for grip. And there's the Carb-D conversion that mounts the motor above the diff for better weight distribution: I drove one, and the handling is surreal, it's virtually impossible to spin. Granted, the high CG might be less ideal on a touring car. I like the idea, RWD grip racing has also crossed my mind a couple of times. Would like to see it take of.
  6. Short answer: No. Long answr: Nooooooo. Serious answer: Not all parts will make your car faster. But as stated above, they might improve durability. Or lower durability by transferring the force somewhere more vulnerable. But Alu bits won't wear out as fast. I'm thinking of the TT-01 control arm mountings for example, that would just super loose over time. Which is also a good point. Precision and such. Aluminum steering arms might help with that, but if your servo is still all over the place and all bearings and ballheads are screwed, is that really going to make a difference? Are you even a good enough driver to feel this or justify worrying about this? Weight and maintenance is also an issue. I remeber people using aluminum bulkheads specifically for added weight and traction, or so that the threads don't strip with repeated dis-and reassemblies. But in terms of weight, aluminum arms will add unpsprung weight and reduce dampening capabilities. And then there's overbuilding. Do you want a complicated thousand euro machine that you have to fix and worry about all the time? Or a medium fast car or even a cheap beater that you can drive like crazy for hours on end? It really depends on what you want, your mindset, and keeping the bigger picture in mind. An aluminum part might rub against and wear out plastic. Blue screws might look cool, but where else is that money spent more wisely? But in the end, build whatever you want, get an anodised bumper mount, pink ball ends, and brake disks. If we're gonna spend hundreds of bucks on useless toys, we might as well do it properly.
  7. Great build! Hope you can fit the front tower somehow
  8. Great write-up! Maaaan I want a Willy, too! Stop doing that to me alright!
  9. Music choice is spot on! Next build a trailer and haul around Vegemite jars.
  10. Yeah, that's it. Keep the tie rod level with the lower sus arm. Now, As soon as you introduce camber, caster, King Pin Inclination, that all starts falling apart, because that will all work against you, so don't be discouraged, you might just have to live with bump steer to a certain degree. Aonther idea could be to set it up as to limit bump steer at a certain steering angle, depending on your course and driving and where you need it most. Maybe.
  11. Some just use lads of glue. I've got a brace mounted to my chassis. It's 3D-printed but any bent wire would do the trick
  12. I think anything that enhances the car's original character or an aspect of that character, or maybe even put's a slight spin on it is a restomod. Being period-correct has got something to do with it as well, but it's hard to tell where that means. On the subject of "new" parts: What About new tyre profiles that weren't around back then? Re-Re-parts? Blue annodised ball studs compared to brass ball studs? That's virtually the same part, is it not? Here's another question: is it possible to modify a car in a period-correct way that wouldn't qualify as restomod? Is a hotrodded Ford A still "resto" or just "mod"? What about modifying a Mercedes 190E or BMW E30 to full DTM-Spec? I don't think that Counts, does it? Personally, I consider my M-01 as on the verge between being a restomod and a modified old car…using some new parts among mostly period-correct one's and a style that wasn't common for the M-01 back in the day. At the end of the day, it's all just genre and nomenclature.
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