M 800STD

Hi, after consulting my little black book of shops, I've found the part you want. Listed at 7.38 euro. The only problem is minimum order is 30.00 euro. Obviously if there are other parts you require, then great. If not, like me, I purchased multiple rare parts.

Hi Steve, thanks for that confirmation. With regards to hub adapters, this was the first time I used clamp style. Previous styles used were plastic and metal slide on pin items. These felt a lot lighter than the clamp style, but did not keep the wheel true. Cheers, Ajj

Hi, can some please confirm if 53218 (Touring Car Hard Cup Set) will fit the Ball diffs on TA03F Pro please? Thanks in advance.

One other thing I forgot to mention was the T 6mm wheel adapter, clamp style. Without these mounted the rotational weight felt great. After mounting hub adapters I was shocked at how much weight was added. This has mad me think carefully when selecting hub adapters. Can someone please measure the diameter of the stock/kit provided anti-roll bars (TA03F Pro) and let me know please?

Yes. I thought I would give it a whirl. Thankfully my mind can relax now as I have all the parts required to finish this car. Well, if my orders have been fulfilled.

If you are in the UK: http://simplybearings.co.uk/ Very low prices and next day delivery.

A quick update to what's been happening, which is not a lot. Been trying to find relevant parts, waiting for parts and getting sent incorrect parts. This must be the longest car build I've ever done. So back to Al parts. Firstly I would like to chat about the RCDampers lower gearboxes which I ordered for the build. Note, I have only assembled the front so far. First observation was the hinge pins supplied were too long, so some correct length items were ordered. Other customers have noticed the same thing. It's not detrimental, but I'm fussy. Also when fitting the upper and lower cases, they needed a little positioning and squeezing together before both parts located with each other. It did not fit like a glove. They did screw together ok and only ok. My only thought was how much was the plastic case was being stressed? I don't think too much but wonder how easily this will cracked on impact. With cases together, front only, I take a look at it, from the side and noticed it's not sealed, ie, I can see light coming from the other side. I suppose a bit of silicone when assembling cases will sort this. I left mine. Now onto the Tamiya C hubs and steering knuckles, which were assembled with the Hop-Up king pins and 850 bearings. There was 0.3mm play, which does not sound a lot, but visually is a different case. Maybe because I was using the bearings instead of bushings? So when assembling the steering, x2 0.1mm shims were placed in the upper C hubs recess for the bearings, before bearings fitted. x1 0.1mm shim was used in lower C hub recess. Now they are perfect. I also used 850 bearings on the steering arms. This went together fine, without the need for shims. In trying to lose some weight, I opted for the Tobee Craft steering assembly and front bumper. I did de-anodise them and would only recommend this with none complex parts, as this was not as easy as YouTube makes out. One other thought that I'll be acting on is the looseness of the anti roll bar ends in the Al parts. This is not right. I've found some appropriate sized heat shrink tube which will be used as bushing. I have tested and again, perfect. The only other things I've done is smoothed over front gearbox and lightened upper FRP plate. @WillyChang Well Wills, I've done as you perscribed, staying with ball instead of geared diffs. Couldn't resist, I saw x20 3mm ceramic bearings for $7, including shipping. Both diffs, new, were assembled as per instruction with x16 ceramic bearings and fully tightened.

God Bless.

Erik, you're one patient man. Thanks for the heads up. It would appear, these days, many rc outlets are doing the multi outlets/partner thing. Your experience is why I pay via PayPal or Visa. I'm happy for you it's resolved.

Stick, period. ...and yes I have/do use wheel.

That's some positive camber. The highest camber value I ever used is 0.

@acprc Hi, can you please supply quote for 58177 TA03F Pro manual shipped to Woking, Surrey please? Cheers, Ajj

Either way Prescient thanks for your input.

No, 12s. Large Powerboats. I not trying to resurrect old batteries, just want to keep new lipo packs at their best. My toys are not all Tamiya related and at the moment into outlaw/modded touring cars. With regards to motor/esc, I like Castle Creations, but in 1/10 car format I would favour other manufacturers like Lehner/MGM combo.

After returning to RC cars after 15 years, I have to get lipo ready, as all my batteries and chargers are NiMH. Ok these are my thoughts. I don't mind, too much, spending the money on a quality charger that would help to keep batteries at their best. A minimum of 2 outputs, to allow dual lipo charging. A good amount wattage to charge dual 12s at a good rate.

Looks ok. Why would you prefer this over LRP, is it just because of dual circuit? Just been looking at LRP Pulsar Touch. I saw an interesting charger on HobbyKing, x4 output, but their customer service really sucks.

School boy error, I didn't check fitment before purchase. Don't want to get rid of shell or buy another car.

Hi guys, I have the Porsche 911 Taisan Starcard (58172) and Porsche 911 GT1 Body set (50747). Whilst trying to fit I noticed two things, incorrect wheelbase and damper mounts were too high. I've managed to address the wheelbase issue by reversing the rear lower arms, but now need to address the damper mounts. Is there a damper mount from another kit available? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Hi, can anyone suggest a quality lipo charger with 2 outputs? If you're suggestion is because you own one, can you tell me if there's any dislikes please? Cheers.

I have to admit I have a soft spot for a 22B too.

P1, that's a bit special.

Fine, no problems, if it's been properly manufactured. I use CK and never had an issue with ingress of water into material. CF should be the same if laminating is done correctly. The hulls I have are incredibly rigid, multi layered and braced, therefore minimal flex - no cracking.

Trust me I know a little about laminates. My other discipline is RC powerboats, where composites and fabrication plays a large part in the hobby.

As you probably know in boats it's not about rpm but torque. If I were you I would ask you question here: www.powerboatforum.de Serious knowledge base with high quality vendors/manufacturers frequenting the site.

Hi Nick, have you asked any of the guys on YouTube? On the Cox Engines Forum there's a user, coxaddicted. He may be able to help you.