M 800STD

Kyosho do American muscle cars.

Not sure if they are the same screws, but Midland Helicopters have screw sets as listed in the back of Landmax 1 manual.

On 1:1 vehicles, whether it be 2/4 stroke, back pressure is desirable as the lack of it would give poor low down power and cause the engine to hunt at idle. It really depends on your application/requirements, if you are chasing HP or whatever. In the realms of the model world, secondary silencers are not an issue. The important thing, for racing engines and tuned pipes, is that the length of the pipe from engine to internal cone of tune pipe is correct. The shorter the distance , the higher the rpm. In RC powerboats, secondary silencers do not have a negative effect on nitro/petrol engines. Of course all engines would benefit from a tuned pipe, but not essential on basic engines, like the Mad Bison and Sandmaster.

...no probs.

I thought you would ask, so there you go. ESC is probably 25+ tears old. Got one in my TA03F

Nope. No set up button present.

RC Line.

Might find something here... https://www.mr-rcworld.co.uk/shop/category/rc-switches/

IIRC, OrangeRx. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/orangerx-sf400s-futaba-fhss-compatible-4ch-2-4ghz-receiver-with-fs-and-sbus.html?queryID=9dd0bcbb521440785f6f5ec23a75fb30&objectID=42870&indexName=hbk_live_products_analytics

Squat Precision bearings from Japan. Very hard to find now.

It's a nice little bit of kit, but I thought it was quite heavy/clunky and battery changes were not that much faster than the original part. Not that I was racing. Also the original part gave the battery a little more protection and was not convinced about having the clips so close to the ground.

Factory settings are just a guide, don't expect it to run perfectly. Have a look at this...

@87lc2 Tried a few manufacturers, never looked back after using Pagid. @Toolmaker72 Do you restore cars as a profession or is the Jag your project?

I purchased that then swiftly reverted to the original part.

https://www.rc-mst.com/product_other.php?class_sn=21 The above link shows the adjustable off-set wheels.

Be careful as some Futaba receivers may cause the servo to glitch when using analogue servos. Further info may be found here: https://futabausa.com/ https://futabausa.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/R304SB.pdf

I use Pagid RSL29 with AP Racing calipers. Great feel/stopping power and no fade. Makes a mess of your wheels though.

Good! Any car I acquire used, I do a full re-build. With regards to your steering issue, you may see it during re-build or it could be your servo.

No rear ARB? You going to use quick release battery thingy?

I would do a full re-build before trying the engine. Put the after run oil through the carb. If non turbo head, use OS8 plug, which is a good quality medium heat plug. To assess bore wear, rotate the flywheel so that piston is bottom dead center. Remove head then rotate flywheel. If liner rise, as piston height increases, then piston/liner is still good. Nitro fuel may be hygroscopic, but you don't have to be that quick replacing the cap.

That little Ripper may be too small. Maybe try here... http://www.surpass-hobby.com/

WD40 will clean it up. Where it is burnt on, manifold and pipe, use a cutting compound like Autosol.

@alvinlwh You're so lucky you managed to find one.

Also try here for aftermarket... https://www.rc-mst.com/