Carmine A

That front end looks better than Ampro or the old FX10 conversion...... The burning question, is it terribly expensive? Considering that it's for a entry-level kit....

Also.... MORE coming! I found out that the Beier USM-RC-3 DOES work on 10 channels with the Flysky FS-i6X Radio! It just required setting up S-Bus on the Transmitter.

Chiming in again! 😉 I've talked (ad nauseum) about not locking Diffs... If this link works, it's showing how well my Grand Hauler Axles work, NOT locked but with 1,000,000wt cst Diff Fluid in the Diffs... https://www.dropbox.com/s/35szgwsmm4neld4/1M wt DiffFluid_semi_1.mp4?dl=0

You've got good advice already! IF you have the funds (definitely not a cheap option!), @tim.senecal has a good idea, plus it leaves you another entire Chassis, to build something else!! 😎 Welcome aboard!! We love to help, and LOVE pictures!

That's CLEVER!! I need to remember that Servo mount trick for my upcoming Euro Truck builds, maybe even my 8X4 Tipper Truck Build. This gets it out of sight! 😎

@Frog Jumper pretty much covered what I would have said... Green Slime (or Team Losi equivalent), is actually good value. Consider this, I've been using the same 0.2oz tube for 3 years! And im certainly not alone. If you really have to pay TRF prices, go ahead. But Team Associated X-Rings have been leak free in my Shocks in 7 separate vehicles for between 2 and 7 years! 🤔 💭

This is a little too much 😫😫, over nothing.... I buy packs of 50 Team Associated 5mm shims (.5mm, 1mm, 1.2mm) for about $10 that covers most applications... Cheaper alternative is from Monster Bolts, a reputable Evilbay seller in the United States, that I've used for over 10 years, when converting my 1/14th Scale Semi Trucks to all hex hardware. Cheap, fast and good!!! They sell these 5mm x 1mm washers, that could work in a pinch, for only 4 1/2 bucks for 25! https://www.ebay.com/itm/M5-5mm-Flat-Washer-Zinc-Plated-Steel-DIN-125A-200-HV-Class-10-9-/113781910918?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p4429486.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0

Not saying I know.... but it might be as easy as getting another Gearbox. One in front, one in the rear.

I haven't used a Servo Saver on anything since about 2004.... EXCEPT for open wheel Buggies and F1 cars. (And Clodbuster, of course!) When I do use a Servo Saver, it's only Kimbrough. They've worked perfectly with no slop. High Torque, all metal gear Servos, combined with the front wheels being enclosed in the body... have made Servo Savers all but unnecessary. Some WILL argue, but it's worked for me flawlessly for decades! 😉

You're not the only one.... it's a fun little Chassis. But it does have limitations, and you won't find the solutions from Tamiya. Look on Thingiverse or Shapeways. Some guys have come up with interesting 3D Printed solutions!

Yeah Racing makes decent, soft M-Chassis rally tires

I've bought from L&L before pandemic.... when shipping to the United States didn't cost my first born child!! There are NO OPTIONS here in the Gen Z contaminated USSA.... when it comes to English RC bodies.... ESPECIALLY Mini Cooper. I still want to piecemeal myself a M03 Chassis, I MISS my Cooper. I should have known how stupid selling it was.... when I bought it for $169.99... and sold it on Evilbay for $480.00 6 years later!!

Does anybody know why the M08 is widely available, but the M07 is so difficult to find (at least in the US)

The M08 is a car I'm dying to try! It was designed to be PLANTED on a Track. From what everyone tells me, the difference between my M06 and the M08, is like a 1948 Plymouth and a new Corvette!!

Here's a trick I've been using for years... Many people doubt or dismiss me for it (not here!). Even though M-Chassis Diffs aren't sealed, with a very thin bead of RTV Silicone around the Diff cap, and VERY thick Diff Fluid, (500K to 1M CST), not only will it stay in, but it will ELIMINATE "one wheel peel" and greatly improve traction! Using 1,000,000wt CST Diff Fluid Video