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El Dougo

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About El Dougo

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  • Birthday 09/23/1979

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    Bristol

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  1. It will be a combination of the gearing and timing. Ideally it should be geared to rev close to the max RPM of the motor (faster acceleration) which should be over 25000 at 6amps, hence the 6.0+ FDR recommendation for a small technical track. For example, my motor has a max RPM of 28000 ish. If I was on 5.5FDR and it was maxing out at 18000 (data logging) I would know that I wasn't using the motors potential and run a higher FDR to increase the RPM it hits (e.g 6.0 would hit 24000). If I was maxing out too slow on the straight it would be hitting the max RPM too early and I would run a lower FDR. Adjusting the end points will allow you to fine tune the travel on each side individually. My Sanwa is something like Left +24, Right +18 to get the 28 degrees that I run.
  2. In the UK we have the BRCA instead of ROAR but it’s pretty much the same deal, approved motors with a maximum retail price. The lack of top end on the outdoor track will most likely be a difference in gear ratio and motor timing . Gearing the motor for the track makes a big difference to lap times so should never be overlooked, especially as spurs and pinions are cheap. The 4.5 ratio advice was most likely a starting point and I would suspect that on that track some of the guys would be down at 4.0. The V3 surpass rocket motors are excellent and if JG is suggesting a hotter motor of the same turn the difference would be marginal and only with top driver. A little over 40 degrees on the timing ring should be about 6 amps, set the motor to that with a fan pointing at it and forget about it. Something that won't cost which most people overlook is making sure that the steering travel is even, you want 25 - 30 degrees. Set the car up so that the travel is as even as possible and then adjust the steering end points on the transmitter.
  3. Thats some great advice! I suspect that your tyres are ballooning. I would invest in some foams and you definitely don’t need AVC From a quick look at your electroincs I'd say thats a 70Mph car but your battery is not up to the job at hand. You want something that can surge 300amps and sustain 200!
  4. Apologies no reply previously, it was great to read that you had fun and that you did not need the marshall on your second time out I would take the sorex over the sweeps everytime and everyone needs sauce even on mega high grip track, I use spider grip green. The sidewalls will tear on the sorex after a few runs so make sure that you keep an eye on them and have glue handy. With the additive cover the rears but only ⅔ to ½ on the front leaving the outside edge dry (start with ⅔). I would go for a spool front diff or much thicker oil (1M +). 3k is good for the rear and I would have 5k on hand to experiment with. (Thicker oil for more rotation) Now your going indoor I would reinforce the body and get an extra one ready! I would also mount the new one 2-3mm forward of the arch centre line. I’m not sure what final drive your running but I would start out at a little over 6 on small track. Your ride height is fine any lower and you will rub on the track. Your current springs will be ok to start with but it really would be worth investing in Big Bore TRF’s or similar and some good springs (I’d recommend SMJ and AXON). You could try progressive springs but unless you are super smooth they jump around rates too much and can be counter productive. Do you have access to a set-up station and what settings did you end with? I think your droop needed more work as you should try and keep a 1mm difference between the front and back I would go 5 front and 4 rear.
  5. No worries bud, Get them sorted then we can work on getting you to the start of the grid for the A Finals
  6. That's so not good I'm not sure where to start dude and apologies if this is suck eggs but the below base will be a significant improvement over you current. 2 deg camber all round, 1-2 deg toe out at the front and anything over 3 deg rear toe in inst good. I would go for 2.5 as that's generally the happy place. Something most people omit is making sure that the steering travel is equal and sufficient, you want about 25 to 30deg travel. Build the front and rear shocks the same, I would start with 45W or equivalent on 2.7's all round built with no rebound. Ride height front and rear also the same 5-5.3 but the closer to 5 the better. The 6deg caster hubs make a big diffidence but are not as strong (will be fine for outdoor). Put a thin roll-bar on the back and make sure that there both working freely with the shocks disconnected. More eggs but when you lift one arm the opposite should rise at the same time to the same height. Not enough droop go for 5 front and 4 on the back to start with. Are saying that the inner upper arm spacer is smaller than the outer? As I expect you know this will give you camber gain but you generally would not want more than a .5 drop. I would start with the even or a .25mm drop if possible as the camber gain can be quite significant under tight cornering. Go for a spool front diff or much thicker oil 1,000,000+ and 5000 in the rear. I would also move the battery to the front of the tray. Final thing is something that most people find counter intuitive is the belt tightness as loose is better, on a twin belt car it's the number one mistake. I will have missed something but hopefully the above helps. Get busy and let us know how you get on as I'm sure once your car is working as it should you will get hooked on club racing .
  7. I mentioned to a gentleman at my RC club that I was looking for Group C chassis car and he said I don't have one of those but I do have..... Well we done the deal earlier: The GT-one is stunning, I'm very happy to get my mitts on it . I have an F103GT with a Mugen finished body already so I may end up passing this one on. I'm still looking for a Group C car so if anyone has one that their willing to part with please drop me a PM.
  8. Indeed that's a great run from @Group c, coincidentally I was working on my TB Evo IV yesterday getting it ready for a sneaky run . Last time out I broke a bottom arm and a couple of drive shafts and I discovered that the 419x arms that I fitted are too short for the drive shafts so some more work is required.
  9. Top work Speedy One thing though is that we were only allowing one entry in each category per car so only the fastest run would be recorded on the list. It saddens me seeing my FF03 relegated to the number 2 spot by @Group c. I have some time off work soon, might need to do something about that!
  10. Apologies bud I was trying to add some humor, I know that you have nothing but the best intentions
  11. Sucks when life gets in the way The Vultures are circling I'll second speedy for Part 2
  12. Today I fixed the nastiness on my 419xr. No more black shock caps, has to be worth a couple of tenths The offending items pictured, ugh nasty I'm waiting on pin vise to finish the TB EVO's shock's, order will be restored soon. On a serious note the SSBB upgrade kit (54878) is a significant improvement over the stock items and is definitely worth picking up.
  13. Congrats on the RWD run Stew ! That's correct any pitch you can fit without modifing the cover is the fine. Where is the Boss man? Looking at his profile no sign in for a few weeks, hope everything is ok....
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