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El Dougo

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Posts posted by El Dougo

  2. Posted

    It will be a combination of the gearing and timing.  Ideally it should be geared to rev close to the max RPM of the motor (faster acceleration) which should be over 25000 at 6amps, hence the 6.0+ FDR recommendation for a small technical track.    

    For example, my motor has a max RPM of 28000 ish. If I was on 5.5FDR and it was maxing out at 18000 (data logging) I would know that I wasn't using the motors potential and run a higher FDR to increase the RPM it hits (e.g 6.0 would hit 24000). If I was maxing out too slow on the straight it would be hitting the max RPM too early and I would run a lower FDR.

    Adjusting the end points will allow you to fine tune the travel on each side individually.  My Sanwa is something like Left +24, Right +18 to get the 28 degrees that I run.

    • Like 1

  3. Posted

    In the UK we have the BRCA instead of ROAR but it’s pretty much the same deal, approved motors with a maximum retail price. The lack of top end on the outdoor track will most likely be a difference in gear ratio and motor timing . Gearing the motor for the track makes a big difference to lap times so should never be overlooked, especially as spurs and pinions are cheap.  The 4.5 ratio advice was most likely a starting point and I would suspect that on that track some of the guys would be down at 4.0. 

    The V3 surpass rocket motors are excellent and if JG is suggesting a hotter motor of the same turn the difference would be marginal and only with top driver. A little over 40 degrees on the timing ring should be about 6 amps, set the motor to that with a fan pointing at it and forget about it. 

    Something that won't cost which most people overlook is making sure that the steering travel is even, you want 25 - 30 degrees.  Set the car up so that the travel is as even as possible and then adjust the steering end points on the transmitter.

    • Like 1

  5. Posted

    On 9/9/2019 at 12:40 PM, Juls1 said:

    i don’t know what these other people used but it all comes down to voltage x rpm at the end of the day. 

    Consider borrowing a setup station if you don’t have one to make sure the car is actually straight. If one corner is out by 1 degree the whole car will be a ******* to drive. 

    Juls

    Thats some great advice!

    I suspect that your tyres are ballooning.  I would invest in some foams and you definitely don’t need AVC :lol:  

    From a quick look at your electroincs I'd say thats a 70Mph car but your battery is not up to the job at hand.  You want something that can surge 300amps and sustain 200!   

    • Like 1

  6. Posted

     

    Apologies no reply previously, it was great to read that you had fun and that you did not need the marshall on your second time out :ph34r:

    I would take the sorex over the sweeps everytime and everyone needs sauce even on mega high grip track, I use spider grip green.  The sidewalls will tear on the sorex after a few runs so make sure that you keep an eye on them and have glue handy. With the additive cover the rears but only ⅔ to ½ on the front leaving the outside edge dry (start with ⅔).  

    I would go for a spool front diff or much thicker oil (1M +).  3k is good for the rear and I would have 5k on hand to experiment with.  (Thicker oil for more rotation)

    Now your going indoor I would reinforce the body and get an extra one ready!  I would also mount the new one 2-3mm forward of the arch centre line. 

    I’m not sure what final drive your running but I would start out at a little over 6 on small track.

    Your ride height is fine any lower and you will rub on the track.  Your current springs will be ok to start with but it really would be worth investing in Big Bore TRF’s or similar and some good springs (I’d recommend SMJ and AXON). You could try progressive springs but unless you are super smooth they jump around rates too much and can be counter productive. 

    Do you have access to a set-up station and what settings did you end with?  I think your droop needed more work as you should try and keep a 1mm difference between the front and back I would go 5 front and 4 rear.

    • Thanks 1

  8. Posted

    That's so not good I'm not sure where to start dude and apologies if this is suck eggs but the below base will be a significant improvement over you current.

    2 deg camber all round, 1-2 deg toe out at the front and anything over 3 deg rear toe in inst good. I would go for 2.5 as that's generally the happy place. Something most people omit is making sure that the steering travel is equal and sufficient, you want about 25 to 30deg travel. Build the front and rear shocks the same, I would start with 45W or equivalent on 2.7's all round built with no rebound. Ride height front and rear also the same 5-5.3 but the closer to 5 the better.

    The 6deg caster hubs make a big diffidence but are not as strong (will be fine for outdoor). Put a thin roll-bar on the back and make sure that there both working freely with the shocks disconnected. More eggs but when you lift one arm the opposite should rise at the same time to the same height. Not enough droop go for 5 front and 4 on the back to start with.

    Are saying that the inner upper arm spacer is smaller than the outer? As I expect you know this will give you camber gain but you generally would not want more than a .5 drop.  I would start with the even or a .25mm drop if possible as the camber gain can be quite significant under tight cornering.

    Go for a spool front diff or much thicker oil 1,000,000+ and 5000 in the rear. I would also move the battery to the front of the tray. Final thing is something that most people find counter intuitive is the belt tightness as loose is better, on a twin belt car it's the number one mistake.

    I will have missed something but hopefully the above helps. Get busy and let us know how you get on as I'm sure once your car is working as it should you will get hooked on club racing :). 

    • Like 3

  10. Posted

    I mentioned to a gentleman at my RC club that I was looking for Group C chassis car and he said I don't have one of those but I do have..... Well we done the deal earlier:

    20190805_115724 20190805_115807 20190805_115846 20190805_120354 20190805_120604

    The GT-one is stunning, I'm very happy to get my mitts on it :).  I have an F103GT with a Mugen finished body already so I may end up passing this one on. I'm still looking for a Group C car so if anyone has one that their willing to part with please drop me a PM.

    • Like 7

  14. Posted

    Sucks when life gets in the way :(

    1 hour ago, Wooders28 said:

    If you must sell up, post for sale on here, and I'm sure we'd offer to sell it back when you're back on your feet.

    The Vultures are circling :lol:

     

    56 minutes ago, speedy_w_beans said:

    If there are no other volunteers and no objections, I'll raise my hand, start the "Part 2" thread, and maintain it.

    I'll second speedy for Part 2 

  15. Posted

    Today I fixed the nastiness on my 419xr. No more black shock caps, has to be worth a couple of tenths :D  

    20190730_175353

    The offending items pictured, ugh nasty

    20190729_080730

    I'm waiting on pin vise to finish the TB EVO's shock's, order will be restored soon.

    On a serious note the SSBB upgrade kit (54878) is a significant improvement over the stock items and is definitely worth picking up.

    • Like 5

  16. Posted

    Congrats on the RWD run Stew !  

    On 7/7/2019 at 10:15 PM, stew_mac said:

    So can I run 48p gears with no mods to the cover to fit a bigger pinion?

    That's correct any pitch you can fit without modifing the cover is the fine.

    Where is the Boss man?  Looking at his profile no sign in for a few weeks, hope everything is ok....    

  17. Posted

    qatmix is much better informed so I'd go with whatever he suggests :ph34r:

    My 2 pence though... I'd start with the Bitty Designs m410 it's very stable and available pre-cut for the 419x (sold as to fit Infinity) which you should be able to get your TA06 mounts to match. When you want something more twitchy I'd look at the Bitty JP8 or Protoform Type S.

    The Zoo bodies are supposed to be very good, I recently picked up a DogsBollox it's very nicely made but I'm yet to try it out. Not so important to start with but what is the track like, surface and size? If it's anything like my clubs (small with high grip carpet) you will be going through bodies quicker than tyres to start with so if your not on a tight budget get a few to try out.

    • Like 1

  19. Posted

    On 7/12/2019 at 2:26 PM, dc-arena said:

    Also, did you fit the clutch?

    I did get the extra one from flea bay. I also recently got the Tamiya damper pliers (42276), expensive but multi-function as they have a holder for the ball cups and look super shinny on the table :).

    You can get the alloy turnbuckles separately in various sizes (54248, 54249........). It's also worth picking up the low friction ball cups to go with (low friction 5mm adjuster – 53601).  I believe that the stock turnbuckle use the 5mm adjuster, just not much meat on them.

    No slipper clutch and I would go as far to say that it's completely pointless on an XV01.

    Good luck with your build the more XV01 the better :ph34r:

  23. Posted

    On 6/4/2019 at 1:24 PM, nbTMM said:

    Is the ramping current due to feathering in the throttle? 1:10/1:8 BLDC motors are typically about 40% efficient (at maximum mechanical power out), so 2.7kW electrical power in, ~1.08kW mechanical power out, 1.62kW heat! Seems about right for 7700kv on 3S to me :)

    I suspect throttle feathering with that variance, the road that I run on isn't the best :)  

    On 6/17/2019 at 9:06 AM, MadInventor said:

    Be interested to know how you work out bhp / ton. I guestimate the war rig weight at around 30-35kg. Top speed last time checked was ~18mph.

    Bhp/Ton is power divided by weight in kg x 1000.  For the War Rig if we take the rated as actual power out it works out at about 105Bhp/Ton. (Convert the KW to BHP (KW x1.336) to get approx 3.2Bhp (3.17968) then divide the power by the weight, will go with 30kg and then multiply by 1000 to get approx 106Bhp/Ton). 

    @Phil_H

    Good to see you back.  I need to dust my cars off and get back out.... I might have a go at the RWD record also :) 

    • Like 1
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