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About Tamiyold

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  1. @matisse, I'm running the kit 74t spur with a 21t pinion as it was the nearest I could get to the FDR recommended in the motor manual (6.5 - 8) without the high speed gear set. I have tried to get the gear set but decided I didn't need it that badly to pay the postage! @Jonathon Gillham, The ride height doesn't seem to bad (to me) I have the shocks in the kit positions, AE 70wt oil in both with one hole pistons in the front and two in the back. It handles jumps pretty well as long as I hit them straight on and don't instinctively hit the brake in mid air! Following advice from fellow racers I have moved the steering tie rods to the inner holes on the steering knuckles to get more steering on the slow tight corners. I was running a 19T brushed motor previously and really struggled to keep it cool, it got so hot the brushes were cooked, the brushless motor only gets warm. I could check out the lower power speed passions and give them a go, maybe they won't destroy diffs so much! One positive thing I can report is my gearbox covers have stayed put while running the brushless motor.
  2. Thought I would post a pic of the TF, it's mostly standard apart from the rear tower brace, hi caps and an alloy front lower gearbox cover. I'm running a Speed Passion 8.5T with a Hobbywing Quicrun 10BL120 ESC, still on nimh batteries for now. As funds allow I'd like to upgrade the shock towers to evo style and go to lipo power but if bits keep breaking they will have to wait!
  3. @Jonathon Gillham I have seen a thread about the slipper pinion but didn't investigate further. That could be plan B if the splines keep stripping. A lot of the club members work for an F1 team and one suggested he might be able to get pressure plates made up! Maybe I'll see what he can arrange
  4. Thanks @Saito2 @StueyS @matisse,I initially had the SB8 bolt tightened right down after reading advice on this forum but when the spline stripped the first time I loosened it off but it slipped too much, so I tightened it a bit more until I could barely turn the gear while holding the drive cups (I don't have stupid strong thread ripping hands!), I also tried the Tamiya thread lock on the splines but that didn't work cos it stripped again. Once I have the replacement pressure plates I'll tighten the bolt down fully and try properly gluing the drives in, I'm considering using some contact adhesive. I have considered giving up on the Top Force for racing but also I really want to make it work against the more modern machines at the club. Hopefully as my driving improves and I crash less the breakages will get less too!
  5. Thanks @bork_ I think that's probably Nick Walker, I've been in touch with him already for prices on shock towers, I'll ask him if he can still do the lipo mount. Mark
  6. I'm beginning to think that the Top Force is a bit too fragile for high traction brushless carpet racing and jumps, yesterday I stripped the spline on another ball diff pressure plate, that's two in less than a month. I have a gear diff in the front but I kept the ball diff in the rear to compensate for the lack of a slipper. Does anyone know if there is a way to make the ball diff more durable or is the TA03 diff stronger?
  7. Hi @bork_I came across your TF while browsing the forum, looks very nice! Interesting comment about the Fibrelyte front tower, you've helped me decide to go with the evo style rather than the Fibrelyte, on my TF racer have to say I thought all those extra mounting holes seem like overkill to me. What's the battery holder you 're using? I'd like to use shorty lipos eventually and I'm not sure what mounting to use. Cheers Mark
  8. I tried some M3 screws in those holes, they seem to be a good fit and I have managed to get some decent torque on them. I'll see how they go at the next race meeting, I replaced a number of screws that were coming loose: both ends of the chassis where it's attached to the gearboxes, both shock towers and the front gearbox lower cover - I have the GPM alloy version and used the M3 screws supplied with it. One thing that replacement screws won't fix is my driving, still struggling a bit!
  9. Something else that started happening on Friday is the two screws on the base of the rear gearbox are coming loose. I have to tighten them after every race , would M3 screws be worth trying or will they just make things worse?
  10. Well, this is a first. Managed to shear the end of one of the rear axles off at my Friday night race meet! Have ordered a couple of stainless steel replacements. I was considering using cheaper CVDs or Tamiya UJs on the back but replacing axles is a lot cheaper! Apart from that mishap the TF seems to be OK with the brushless motor (with NiMHs) and a 21t pinion with the standard spur. Was struggling for low speed grip on the front and was told by other members I should run a lot stiffer shock oil and springs, does anyone know which springs will fit the hi-caps? I tried some tt-02 springs but they are too small, I'm thinking of going to 70wt oil from the 40 I have already and try to set the ride height so that the wishbones are level. In case anyone was wondering I'm running Schumacher cactus yellow on the rear and fusion on the front, both with medium foam inserts. Mark Edit: I did a quick search, found an Egress thread where they have used Losi springs on the Hi-Caps so I'll look them up.
  11. The TF is out of action now due to a broken front universal, judging by the clicking noise it was making it was on the way out even before I fitted the brushless set up (8.5T Speed Passion) - it broke half way through the second race using it. I'm now waiting for Tamiya CVDs to arrive which I hope will last a lot longer! After finding the recommended gear ratios for the Speed Passion motor (6.5:1 - 8:1) I'm thinking the Skyline speed tuned gear set (if I can get one) would be worth trying so I can get the ratio in the right range, assuming those ratios are for the final drive. I think an email to Tony's Tamiya Parts is in order. I've been running the TT02 while the TF was out of action, was good to drive except for the nose-diving off the jumps! Fingers crossed the TF with CVDs will handle the brushless speed and the carpet grip.
  12. Ran without the gasket, the end of the motor doesn't have much in the way of vents that would allow things to get into the gearbox. However I am wondering if the motor is getting too hot, it's too hot to touch for more than a second or two after a five minute race, is that to be expected or is it too hot? I'm running the kit spur with a 19t pinion.
  13. I'm just soldering new wire and connectors to the 14t motor and wondering if I need the big fibre gasket that goes between the motor and the mount. Would I be correct in thinking I don't need it with the alloy mount? Don't think I ran one "in the old days"!
  14. Thanks for the advice Stuey, I'll probably get some of the Schumacher tyres when the Tamiyas wear out. One the other club members advised me to cut two or three rows of spikes from the front tyres to reduce the amount of grip. Even with the 14t motor and a 17t pinion I didn't think I was getting that much more speed out of the car, I think a lot of energy was being lost through heat! I'm just waiting for my soldering iron to be delivered so I can get the motor connectors and wire upgraded. I also ordered some shims so I can work on reducing the play in the suspension. Then I need to work on getting my driving back to where it was 15 years ago, I was using sticks back then so I now have to get used to a wheel as well 😀
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