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ThunderDragonCy

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About ThunderDragonCy

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  1. RW Racing for UK based good pinions. https://www.rwracing.co.uk/product/cnc-tamiya-0-6-module-pinion
  2. Sounds interesting @jonboy1 It was also that Astute mid, plus my DF01 Ultra Hornet swap that got us thinking. It is a nice cheap, readily available trans, and the ball diff in my Ultra Hornet certainly seems OK with hot brushed (rather than brushless) power. Due to my pile of FF01 spares I am also just a B parts tree away from a running DF01 rear end, but I am being tempted by the TD2 internals. I suspect a base plate for df01 rear end will be an option if we do this though. Although I sympathise with wanting to use parts trees available, it's actually the internals that are the really hard bit. With TD2/4 we now have whaf seems to be steady production of a pretty competition spec drivetrain, so joining the dots with a 3d printed case that suits the packaging needs of an older body seems like a win to me. I am hoping they don't end up too pricey. I am looking into options other than Shapeways on that side of things.
  3. Don't know who did the original, but you could make something similar out of some piano wire and current tamiya parts. 53827 stabilizer stoppers 53644 stabilizer end 54869 open adjuster long 54248 23mm turnbuckles 50592 ball connectors If you drill 1.5mm holes through two of the adjusters just behind the open ends and mount those to the shock tower like the one in the pic you have. Make the bar by bending some 1.5mm piano wire in the right shape and use the stoppers to hold it in place. Stabilizer ends on the end, ball connectors in the arms, and use the other adjusters and turnbuckles to make the droppers.
  4. Just to give a bit of an idea, here's a screen grab of the current model Clear structure is a Super Astute undertray near as I can measure it. Shorty lipos in blue in various positions. Top force arms, you can make out the twin deck, and the rear trans is a start on something with TD2 internals in either 3 gear or 4 gear options. Still needs a fair bit of work, but it's getting there. Wheelbase is 273 at full droop on the 25deg front kick up.
  5. Thanks for the thoughts. I agree about vintage type parts up to a point, but DF01/Top Force arms and trans have been in pretty much constant production since the early noughties, hence looking at using them. Interesting point on front hex. All my 2wd are bearing front and with JC Racing doing nice 2.2 these days I haven't felt the need to change, but it's a fair point. The GH knuckles are same same as F103 composite ones which are pretty nice.
  6. The laydown shocks are one of the reasons for the bulkiness, and graeme and I both think the lack of front tower makes them look weird so we will definitely be doing a regular front shock setup. A Super Astute body is barely 33mm tall at the front.
  7. Good to know. Not sure if this will necessarily solve the weight distribution issue, but we are definitely aiming to be able to lipos in difference positions
  8. So after @graemevw built his Ultra Grasshopper (GH1 version of my GH2 Ultra G), we got talking about his Super Astute and how it was lovely, but was always breaking and no spares support. So we got to thinking about developing a trans-swap buggy that would use vintage-ish parts with good availability, solve some performance and durability issues, and be able to fit an Astute or other cool vintage bodies. Currently it's sitting as a twin deck carbon 2wd mid based broadly on Super Astute dims, but using a DF01/Top Force transmission, rear shock tower, rear suspension complete, and front arms for easy availability of parts. It would have a new 3D printed 25 deg kick up front block, 3D printed C hubs to join the top force front arms to grasshopper/F103 knuckles. Uses XV01 linkage steering adapted to suit, shorty lipo only with a few positioning options. Thing is, I already have a DF01 trans swap buggy in my Ultra Hornet. The DF01 trans is pretty strong and cheap for mild setups, and I haven't really missed a slipper because I don't like big jumps. It also has no anti squat and a couple of other less than ideal things. On the one hand we wanted to create something with vintage feel and tech, but a few improvements and spares support. On the other hand, I have a bit of form with trans swaps, and with TD2/4 coming out we gave plentiful supply of Tamiya slipper clutches, good diffs, cheap, modern geometry arms, plus adjustable touring car suspension blocks, it would not be a huge step to keep the broad dimensions, cool old body compatibility, but put something properly modern in terms of trans and suspension underneath. In fact being carbon and simplified front suspension it might appeal to TD2 owners. As this might be something we could offer to others, and because we are both dithering a bit about which way to go, I want to ask you fine people: what would you go for? Vintage ish astute mid, or fairly up to date, fairly high end, tamiya based buggy you can put proper cool bodies on like Hornets, astute, dynastorm and all sorts of others? Suggestions ideas also welcome. Go for it!
  9. Never knew what they were called. Thanks. @BuggyDad Found these at 6mm long on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/124494753715?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=8wq7Z9toR0m&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=E_zGvBECTL-&var=425366412103&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
  10. Split the rear trans. Felt like the spur gear was rubbing on the metal bevel of the diff. I had assembled it wrong, with the planetary gears in the diff ring facing the other way. Didn't make a deal of difference flipping it (correctly assembled is shown above) but it's manual correct now. Still seemed very tight on the spur clearance so I put a 5mm x 0.3 shim behind the spur gear to lift it away a little. Hopefully it'll not be too tight on the bevel now! I reassembled and it is a bit better, but still not free like the front. All feels quite rough, but it does all spin so maybe it just needs to bed in? I will keep an eye on motor temps for the first few runs for sure.
  11. The M05 58mm shafts arrived, so I popped them in. I used some spare black cva o rings to space them out at the front. I shimmer the fore/aft slop out whilst I was at it, but they are still quite loose in the holes on the gearcase, so the arms move a fair bit still. Also the rear diff seems tight when spinning one of the the wheels. Should be completely free right? It's an open diff. I think I need to get back in there for a look before running it.
  12. Question then: would you buy something fairly high end and modern layout (CF chassis, mid motor, modern diff, long arm suspension, shorty lipo fitment etc) if it had a vintage style body? I am a big fan of grafting the classic bodies onto more useable and better driving chassis, and that Dirt Master hits the spot for me. But a lot of people here seem to want really high end. So what if kyosho had done a dirt master style shell on an RB7 variant? Would that do it? Or do you think it would lose something in being so modern in layout?
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