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ThunderDragonCy

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About ThunderDragonCy

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  1. @matisse Yeah Shapeways prices and shipping have got pretty ridiculous recently. I am trying to find other options, but although i have used a really good uk supplier, they have a £48 minimum order so it needs lots of parts to make sense.
  2. Medium length. Its longer than a Cup motor, byt they seem very short.
  3. Off the back of this i bought a 7520 and installed it in my TT01E Iconic stock spec racer. It was super easy to file a flat on the shaft, and i ran it in in a glass of water at low revs for 5 mins. I then raced a full 4 heat race and it seems great. Pretty much held its own against the Team Powers Cup motors the other racers use. For £3.50 seems a no brainer for a nice runner motor
  4. Racing again last Saturday. I learned my lessons from the previous week and went in with no changes to my proven setup. In the intervening week i had been somewhat suspicious of the ESC that i ran with the Cup motor last week as it had been one of the ones that i thought had been broken, but turned out to have been a faulty motor in my FF01. Whilst I didn't seem to have any trouble overall last week, the didn't seem to pick up cleanly on throttle and it had a couple of glitchy moments. As the faulty motor in question was also a Cup motor and the one i was using last week was the same unloved V2 spec and had been used in my Thunder Dragon offroad I decided to pull it out. The Mabuchi 7520 motor from hobbyking turned up so i ran it gently in some cold water for 5 minutes to bed in the brushes and installed it with one of my other, newer 1060 ESCs. It ran really smoothly. The specs on the 7520 are 23400rpm top speed vs claimed 24000 for a Cup motor. It doesn't have a fan like a Cup motor, but it seemed good. I also tried some gearing, as i picked up a 28t pinion from RW Racing, because you can fit a 28/55 tallest gear for 5.1 FDR. Acceleration was dulled a little, but top speed was good, however the motor was seriously hot after just a couple of minutes in the street which bothered me a bit. I went back down to 25/55 and motor temps were better, as was acceleration so i settled on that. Back to the track, and I ran some laps and all seemed good. Running the old BRCA34 fronts, and newish Rush32 rear. I had trimmed the front splitter because the high speed sweeper runs up a rise to the first tight corner, and last week the front end was digging in and flipped me a couple of times. I was still being a little tentative through here as the car does roll a fair bit because of the soft rear. However, after last weeks disaster with trying a stiffer setup I just concentrated on my line. I also played with the front ride height a little. The car was a little understeery last week, but i found the steering is super sensitive to front height. I had been running it pretty high because of the low shell and the bumpy track. Dropping it a little really helped turn in, so i went with that. It's still running about 8mm though. I have some new B parts coming with body posts so i am going to try running the body next hole up so i can run it nearer 6mm like my TC. As for the racing itself, that was kind of great and a disaster all at the same time. I was back in a heat with all the guys i won against in the first week, but everyone has improved their setup and driving. We are now all super close, which makes for close racing, but in my case bad racing because i appear to be completely useless in traffic. I just make stupid mistakes, so despite consistently running 13 lap 304 second heats, which were all easily my second fastest times, all apart from one driver in my heat managed a 14 lapper. It was really frustrating too because i did 14 laps last week, and i KNOW i am faster than a couple of those guys in relatively clear air. Now we are all really close which makes overtaking hard, and i am just not good at it. Its doubly frustrating because i was Car 1 this week so i got sent off first in heat 1 and threw it away almost straight away. After that i was running car 4 which meant i was always in traffic and always making mistakes. Despite good times, they were all as a result of being marshalled or lots of mistakes which is really annoying. What was also slightly humbling was watching one of the guys in the other heat out his Stock TT01E down and smash out a 15 lap heat. He was soooo fast! I don't know how he got that TT01 so planted but holy cow he was quick. I have found out he does run the 28/55 gearing i thought got the motor too hot, so that's something to consider, but ultimately next week i just need to keep my gead together, be patient in traffic and just be better!
  5. @GooneyBird I'm thinking about a couple of upgrades on my TT01E racers. I currently have the big plastics driveshafts, and they work fine for what I need, but I noticed on re-reading this thread that if I upgrade to the TT01D arms the big outdrives will foul. Are the upgrade arms worth it in that case? If they are good, do you have any idea if some of those aftermarket aluminium gearbox outdrives for the plastic driveshafts would provide enough clearance? They look less bulky that the kit plastic outdrives. Would appreciate your thoughts. Thanks!
  6. No idea about tl01 parts. I think i just used the body posts that came with the Racing Fighter. Shame about that body though.
  7. That looks ace. The only truck i found that has the combination of narrow enough to fit between the wheels and long enough is the proline raptor dual cab i put on mine. I looked for a long time!
  8. No it's not. The M07 is much more like a club racer M-chassis. It's way higher spec than the M05. Tamiya still put the M05 and M06 under shells for complete kits.
  9. It is VERY stiff. I made one out of thinner wire but it still made the car even more on the nose.
  10. Interested to see how you fine the rear bar. I took mine off because this chassis seems to have so much steering compared to rear grip i found it better without the rear bar.
  11. @GooneyBird I think it's as dialed as it will ever be in stock format like this. We are now into mixed class running so i am going to add a couple of things to mine to improve it slightly without going nuts. Toe in rear hubs being the main thing, possibly the D/R arms for a little more tuning options. If you do ever get to the uk, you could drop your Club Racer straight into the Super Stock class as long as you get the Team Powers spec motor. Class rules are here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/2360584570843689/permalink/2915966311972176/ And if the national races are full, then come and race at Broxtowe with me. We race every Saturday and are more relaxed about rules so you could probably just run what ya brung in our Iconic class.
  12. @nowinaminute That's really cool! The nice thing now is that if it feels too soft as is all you need to do is move the bottom of the rear shock rearward on the link slightly. Tune by the leverage rather than changing the shock. Looks great.
  13. So today could be summed up fairly briefly: Put the Cup Racer motor in the TT01. Also got some fresh Rush. 32 tyres. Massively overthought changing the setup for higher speeds. Crashed my brains out first two heats. Gave myself a talking to amd reverted to last weeks' setup (softest rear springs, higher ride height to prevent elevation changes flipping the car because of low body clearance, worn brca34 fronts, rush32 rears) promptly did my fastest time so far in heat 3 despite apparently losing the ability to drive in the middle of the heat. Agonised over whether to run my FF01 in the final heat as i gave it a run between heats and it was blummin lovely. Decided to stop being an idiot making changes and put my car down for heat 4 with no changes from 3. Had my best race ever. Didn't get marshalled and only made one small mistake on the last lap. Result? 2nd in heat, my first ever 14 lap heat. One of my main competitors was watching the live timing and gave me an elbow bump for managing 14 laps, which was so nice. So, todays lesson is STOP FIDDLING WITH THE CAR IDIOT! I am torn though, because my FF01 was seriously lovely for the few laps I ran and i run it in the same heats next week as we lump any Iconic car in together. In fact, the guy who keeps smoking us in our heat has a nice FF02.
  14. And just to prove it was DEFINITELY a dodgy motor, i spotted my old old 1060 in the garage bin yesterday, so i dug it out and soldered some plugs onto it. Then temporarily strapped it to my FF01 and just run it trouble free for 20 minutes in lipo mode.
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