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ThunderDragonCy

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  1. Noticed there is a spacer under the pivot ball on the front suspension rockere on my FF03. What do these do? Does adding them or removing them make any difference to how the suspension works? Cheers!
  2. Little bit more. The 850 bearings for the IFS rockers arrived so in they went. Smoooth. Tried some different springs just to see if the softer 53163 road/rally springs i have would be better. Unfortunately not! Tried a couple of different ride heights, but thry just let it bottom out and skip at the rear too easily, and it was getting lots of roll oversteer. Basically not controlling its masses well. Didn't want to go back to the full hard setup it arrived with (stiffer than i have on my TA06 racecar) so i put the stiffest blue road/rally springs rear (softer than the red hard springs) and the yellow spring from the 53540 hard set on the front. Seemed good. Ended up taking the sway bar off the rear and putting a soft bar on the front and the balance seemed good. Going to try and get some track running soon.
  3. The Comical Frog isn't an ORV. That's the original Frog. With the exception of the lunchbox all the comicals are the same WR02CB chassis. I have the hornet. It's funny.
  4. How about a Cayenne or Hummer DF01? Based onthe same drivetrain as the Top Force, but mixed up with some TA01 touring car bits to make s ale looking trucks?
  5. @berman That looks like a fun afternoon. I can highly recommend the comicals for kids and grass running. Mine is pretty much stock apart from the obvious bearings and hard coat pinion. I popped one of the ebay special black and gold 21t brushed motor and a 1060 esc in it. Even on lipo and full throttle it's fine for kids, and fast enough that last time i lent it to my nieces and nephews they ended up having running races against it! Plus the kids love the look of it.
  6. The two separate orders for hop ups for my FF03 arrived at the same time on a satutday morning. Don't you just love it whenthat happens? Cue an entire afternoon of tearing down the car and replacing parts, with abit of ligjt soldering thrown in to hook up the esc to its new motor. With the exception of some gearing this is it for the FF03 though. The alloy blocks and reibforced plastics are to make it nice and stout and tight for some street rally action and maybe the occasional track outing. Full skinny on the build thread.
  7. Hop ups day! Alloy suspension blocks, and reinforced K amd M sprues Although i only wanted the stiffeners and steering parts and shock tower, there a so many other parts on these sprues that the hole rear end got new hard plastics I could only find 1XC suspension blocks, not 1XD as per kit, but this only makes the track 0.75mm wider. 4mm hexes replacing 5mm make the track a little narrower overall. Rear block is a 1B to maintain the same toe in as the kit. All the plastic pivot balls on the inner shafts replaced with steel. Front end partially dis-assembled. The big plastic shock mounting/bulkhead part is also on the reinforced sprue so this is getting replaced. Unfortunately when i got down to the steering to replace with hard plastics i found bushings. I already used my 4 spare 850 bearings because the suspension rockers also had bushings, so that was frustrating. I put the bearings in the steering because it's buried in the chassis and i wanted it back together. The hard plastic parts are like for like replacement but much stiffer. The front suspension blocks were next. I had some 1XD split blocks from my TA06 so i used those with another 1XC at the front to give some sweep on the front arms. Wanted to try this. Apparently it takes the edge off turn in but gives more grip on exit. Steel pivot balls again. Then it all got a bit frustrating. The new 17t brushed motor needed the yellow wire moving to the bottom, then a new longer blue wire because it then did not reach the ESC. Once the front end was back together for some reason the steering connectors were catching on the shock mount plate. Tried the old one and that hit too. Ended up chopping the top off However, after all this is finally went back together. Need to tidy up the wiring but it runs. And runs well. Give it a good run on a damp street and it seems really nice. Bit more tied down. Don't know if it's emporors new clothes, but there is no slop in the suspension now and things are a little stiffer. Don't know, but it's really nice and i am keen to give it some track time.
  8. I haven't run on a beach myself, but having put Mad Bull wheels on a Rising Fighter i can agree with @taffer and vouch for its 'floatiness' in soft conditions. Of course the Mad Bull would be another great option.
  9. I took the o rings out and thry syill bounf. The 39mm dogbones worked just fine, but ultimately the TB01 cadter c hubs reduce the width by around 2mm per side. The obly way to make it all work with unis is getting TB01 front arms. They are 2.5mm wider than the TL01 arms and push the c hubs back out to the correct width.
  10. Cheers. I'm pretty sure thry don't because the LA arms use 3mm shafts and the TRF uprights use 2.6.
  11. TA06 has been laid up for a dew weeks whilst i have faffed with my 306 project and also not had time to get to club nights. I have succumbed to HopUpitis by tagging bits onto other orders 'to use the postage'. As mentioned above, i got a better, low profile servo and a kimbrough medium servo saver, and made up to new steering arms with hard connectors to try and remove as much slop as possible. I also read on thercracer about them running wide blocks at the front and narrow rear on their 419s to settle them down. I had the opposite because i had picked up cheap blocks on rcmart. With another rcmart order i got another cheap 1F wide block and switch it to the FR position i stead of the separate blocks. The beauty of the TA06 short front belt is that it clears a full width block with no hacks. So, i now have 1F / 1F front and with some 4mm thick hexes it just squeezes unser 190mm wide. At the rear i switched the 1D from the front of the car to the RR position and split 1XB blocks to maintain the 3 deg toe in but again with 4mm hexes to narrow it down. In theory narrower rear track should give the rear end a little more grip. Whilst i was on rcmart, i couldn't resist cheap pointless upgrades - in this case TRF419 arms and rear uprights. They aren't very expensive to be fair (about 15 quid all in) are reinforced plastic so stiffer than kit parts, and latest geometry. Apparently the ta06 sway bar kit isn't supposed to fit these. You are supposed to get the TRF418 kit, but i can't see why as it installed with no problems at all. Nothing like spending money on parts when really you just need practice! Final piece of the puzzle is dampers. I needed the cvas for my TL01 so that was an excuse to upgrade here. These are 55mm yeah racing shocks. Seem pretty nice, lots of ti coating, and threaded collars make setting ride height super easy. Built them with 3 hole pistons, 500wt front, 400 rear like my other shocks. Didn't want to mess with the tapered hole pistons that comes with them (yet). Stuck with tamiya springs because i know them and apparently the yeah racing ones you get are a bit variable. So, all looking pretty racey now. Found there is a permant track at Force Raceway about an hour from me which has regular open practice and tune up sessions. I can see me doing a couple of those before racing again. Now i think i just need driving time and some space away drom racing to get a dialed base setup so i am not chasing my tail the whole time on club nights.
  12. Reversible arms definitely don't fit. I checked. The boss for the inner pivot on the TL01 is 45mm. The inner spacing on modern touring car arms for the inner livot is about 34mm.
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