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ThunderDragonCy

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  1. @GTodd I had a front one way in my DB01. Worth a try if you have one. It takes a bit of getting used to, but I really liked it on astro. This was just running laps rather than racing though, so you might want more consistency in a pack of other cars. Have you tried playing with the roll centres. My HUDY setup guide says for corner entry understeer, first port of call after sway bars is raising the front roll centre and/or lowering the rear roll centre. If you have solid traction, maybe stiffer rear springs? Should tend to improve turn in and if you have plenty of traction hopefully won't compromise grip on exit. If you have practice time, just try stuff until it works.
  2. Just my 2p-worth: Rotate is one of those words that needs context in my opinion. A stiffer rear diff IN THEORY will tend to make the car harder to turn in/less rotation/understeer on entry, but then if you do manage to get the front end gripping through braking or tires, stiffer diff promotes easier sliding/oversteer/rotation on the exit of the corner. A more open diff is the opposite. So, it depends on where in the corner you are talking about the car rotating. If you have the right driving technique to nail the front into the apex, a stiffer diff will rotate the car very quickly apex-to-exit because you will be able to pick up the throttle harder and the diff effect will transit the power with minimum slip. A more open diff will tend to rotate the corner upon braking, earlier in the corner, entry-to-apex. However, as Sosidge rightly points out, tyres are the big thing. On road when I was first trying to get into it, I would take peoples' advice and get nowhere. I'm not that great a driver and I just need to do what worked for me. At one point that was a quick wildly differing setup front to rear - different tyres, way different springs etc. It wasn't what anyone would recommend, but it got the car working for me. If you're fighting understeer, is there a lower grip rear tire option? Try getting less grip overall but better balance?
  3. Ah, shame about the Schumacher availability. IME the tamiya slim fronts are actually 2.2. It's the rears that are that weird slightly smaller diameter
  4. If the star dish work then that's great. I ended up using Schumacher slim fronts for imperial bearings and buying the optional imperial size front axles.
  5. I will put the cases on my Shapeways store when I get a chance, but you will need @Sgt.Speirs help with a parts list.
  6. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/87185-trf211-3-gear-laydown/&do=findComment&comment=730342
  7. This is great. At the risk of mentioning mods straight off, I built my white tube with a 3 gear laydown transmission I design. Uses a yokomo motor plate and idler, but all tamiya bits otherwise. It does mean drilling the tub though, which I understand you might not want to do, but just wanted to mention the option as you are running on carpet.
  8. First time at the club for months. I am racing my FF01, but thought I would bring Ultra Hornet for a few laps of the offroad track before it all starts. Nice to give it a run. Worked quite nicely
  9. Spot on. Tamiya seem to work nice with 17.5 to 13.5 kinda thing. 2500-3300 seems nice to me
  10. Love the toe control rear end! Would be fairly easy to do some 3d printed arms to short the wheelbase without the plate. Really need to sort a rear sway bar for mine, although using that setup would also allow for less toe in too. Very nice!
  11. Yes, to make any hex work on db01, drill out the step, and you will need a spacer behind the pin. I used really narrow 4.5mm hexes from a touring car and leftover 850 bronze bushings from kits as the spacer.
  12. TRF419 or TA07 medium stiffness arms work great. You flip the front ones to work with the IFS.
  13. The thing you need to be careful of using a tb04, or tb05 or tt02s/Sr or anything using long arms is that you run into problems with the arms hitting whatever droop stop has been moulded into the tub and c hub on the front arm cross brace. It requires filing and cutting to get good ride height. I recently had to do thus on my FF03 rally conversion. If you are looking for relatively cheap and decent ground clearance then TT01E, TT02 stock or TA02 or TL01 would all be good shouts. They all have shorter arm suspension, so are easy to get good ride height. Contrary to @Juls1 experience, whilst I found the TA02 frustrating to get set up on track, with the stock CVA mini shocks rebuilt to longer stroke and evened out front to rear (I think the rears ended up shorter than fronts using o rings to get the ride height even) I found it to be a delightful little rally car. Very short geared though, so slow with a silver can. The TT01E and TL01 still have speed tuned gear sets available and with a silver can on loose you want the tallest (lowest FDR) gear you can get.
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