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About ThunderDragonCy

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  1. @RichieRich When I first built Ultra G I put this block for dt02/3 arms on it with thundershot arms, dt03 c hubs and knuckles and lots of spacers in the pivots. Worked well and track was much narrower than with the dt arms. I did a wider block eventually because I wanted the front track to match the rear.
  2. I started with buggies, but got into road stuff and I really like the scale shells. On road chassis are surprisingly usable in the street if you run them 6-7mm ride height, but it's easy to get lost in setup and get frustrated in my experience. I have a real soft spot for rally cars. Still that scale appearance, but more ride height and softer suspension so you can drop them off kerbs and such. XV01 or XV02 would really hit the mark in terms of modern design and materials with nice usability. That said, I am really enjoying my TD4. It's just a wheel and body swap away from not looking awful too. I grafted a Saint Dragon body onto mine, but I am sure with a bit of creative trimming you could get lots of bodies to work. Hat tip to the DB01 suggestion. They are wonderful to drive.
  3. Ah, the 4wd must be different then
  4. I know what you mean. Would like to see what it looks like with a blackfoot body on. Love that body, but can't be bothered with all the ORV rubbish.
  5. If the drive shafts are that long they might even be a nes arm length/variant. The comical were wider than the tl01, but they used 42mm driveshafts
  6. Drop me a DM if you are interested in the one I did that uses DT02/3 front arms. I could easily modify the block to be narrower to keep the front track a little more consistent with the original. https://www.shapeways.com/product/GRSUZGQSU/tamiya-rising-fighter-grasshopper-2-4-bar-front
  7. I wondered same, but that's how they are even on old tamiya FRP and they have run 2 seasons of racing with my FF01, and a fairly tough life before I got it by the look too. No bother. I guess the countersunk head spreads the load. True, but if you are 3D printing stuff anyway I suspect a battery mount would easier and cheaper in printed plastic. Those sides will be about 30 quid each at least from fibrelyte. You could do some printed end retainers with thick tabs for o rings. Kinda like this but with printed parts instead of carbon plate If you want a vertical servo mount, the TD2/4 does that out of the kit with a low profile servo.
  8. I reckon 2mm plates will do it. That's how thick they are on my FF01, which is same as top force.
  9. Brilliant. Keen for this.
  10. Never driven an m-chassis so can't compare those, but at 10th scale I LOVE FF01s. Yes the parts ard old and rare, but they are such nice cars to drive. Big setup window, easy to handle. My ff03 was good too, but much easier to mess up the handling with adjustments. The FF01 is just great. IMO
  11. Avante? I think the Astute is your best bet though. I started designing a buggy around an Astute shell last winter after me and @graemevw were chatting about how rad his ReRe Super Astute looked, but how annoying fragile and difficult to get spares for it was. Mine never got off the CAD, but I love the Astute shell. I got a Team Azarashi shell for my TRF201 and TRF211 a while back. Only some have undertrays, but there's a few that do. DMS has some left: https://www.dms-racing.com/browse-store/manufacturer/azarashi/results,1-40
  12. You have the parts list there. I did the same conversion on my boomerang, so may I offer some setup advice? Start out with 2 hole pistons rear, and 1 hole pistons in the front. Get some stiff front springs. The long ones from the kit are no good. I ended up using the hard silver fronts from the 53927 df03 spring set. The bigwig arms put way more leverage on the front shocks compared to the rears so you need them quite fit to balance the car out.
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