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About ThunderDragonCy

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  1. Gave it a run this lunch time Needed an exrtra medium spacer (black) to take up the slack in the spring, but this almost no preload. It does sit quite low, but with lots of droop there was plenty of rear grip. I ran mini spike front and rear, and although there was the odd grip roll, it was actually pretty well balanced. Certainly more so than when I first built it a few months ago. As the ride heights seems a little uneven front to rear and tried a little more preload at the rear, but that immediately resulted in more grip rolls, so back down it went. I took 5mm preload spacer out of the front monoshock and that was really nice. I did notice the rear has huge camber gain through it's travel though. I'm running the original 1987 uprights which have a much taller pin location than the ReRe versions. This gives a low roll centre to resist roll, but clearly has downside with the camber gain. It probably has more than 10 deg negative camber towards full travel at the rear! I have some of the ReRe uprights, which raise the roll centre (for more grip and less grip roll too hopefully), and maybe they will have less camber gain too. I'm going to give them a try next. Whilst I'm enjoying tweaking the setup on this, I specifically don't want to go mad down the hop ups route as I've already done that with my other Thunder Dragon, so it will be limited to trying out kit parts. I have an original rear anti roll bar too so if the grip roll does keep on I might try it, but it didn't work too well last time I used it. We'll see. Just because of what was fitted to what it has the JC 2.2" Egress rear wheels and the JC optima 2.2" fronts. I thought I was going to switch onto the Egress wheels on this because the offset is more in keeping with the buggy, but I think the Optima wheels just look better, so I think this will keep the Optima wheels, and I'll have the Egress wheels for my other Thunder Dragon.
  2. The diff in the M07 is the TA06 diff used in multiple models. It's pretty good. Why are you having to change it? 54471 is the same diff as your kit, but comes with steel internals which are heavier but much stronger than the plastic ones you'll have used in the kit verison. 42259 or 42374 TRF diff o-rings are a worthwhile upgrade to help stop leaking, and if you want to go full bling there's an aluminium cover available 54602. If you what something a bit different (but in all honest more maintenance) there's the TA06 Ball Diff set 54306 will drop right in. Finally there's Tamiya 54372 which is a solid spool.
  3. Nothing planned until the restrictions lift. Probably mid-summer earliest.
  4. Failing that, RW Racing do 0.5mod Helicoptor pinions for 3.175 shaft motors down to 10t.
  5. I've seen it mentioned people running Associated B4 48dp spur gears. You'll need the octagonal Associated slipper pads too, and possibly drill out the centre slightly, but having looked at the manual there's no reason why that shouldn't work.
  6. The Long Shock Conversion Way way back in the mists of time, the Thunder Dragon promo video shows the rear long shock upgrade option for the Thunder Dragon. This mounts the 105mm long Boomerang/Bigwig/Supershot rear shocks to the top mount on the original narrow shock tower. It looks awesome, but these shocks are actually way too long for even the top shock mounting hole. Now, as you all know, I've tried a *few* different configurations of this suspension on my various Thundershot chassis transmission buggies. Last week I came to the conclusion that the best I have ever used is my black CVA 2 shocks in longest 94mm length, running on the top Long Shock position on the narrow tower. At full extension this shock length gives full droop (the droop stops on the arms are just about touching the stops on the gearcase), lots of droop, lots of grip, lots of fun. It was the best option on my other Thunder Dragon, and I've reverted Ultra G to it too, because it's the best there. I've tried the wider Terra Scorcher tower, the original configuration here, with a bunch of different shock lengths, and none are as good as the Long Shock in my opinion. So, with this in mind, I wanted to see how I could keep the OG yellow CVA shock look and get a good Long Shock conversion for this fairly stock Thunder Dragon. Here's the original configuration with short shocks, which are 80mm eye to eye. To give you an idea of what I'm blathering on about, here's my other Thunder Dragon a couple of years back with it's Long Shock CVA2 configuration: First things first, the big different between original CVA Short and Long shocks is the body itself. These are usually readily available as the Boomerang/Bigwig U Parts tree, but there's nothing out there new right now. I lucked in with a member who I bought some used Long shocks off complete. These bodies are 10mm longer than the short shock bodies on their own. Here's the original short shocks sitting next to the long shocks: Then comes the piston rods. Here, I relied upon the brilliant Buggy Damper Thread where all the various CVA piston rod lengths are listed. I went for the current CVA short shock rod 9805917, which at 47mm long is a little longer than the original short shock rods, but 11mm that the rods in the Long shocks. However I've since found out that the Fire Dragon ReRe uses these 9805917 rods in it's original style CVA short shocks, so it's possible the difference isn't that great, so if you have a ReRe Thunder Dragon or Fire Dragon you probably don't need new piston rods, just the Bigwig U parts for the body. First build up and I put them together and the total length came out at 93mm, and I wasn't getting full extension of the suspension to the droop stops. I popped the ends off and fitted a 3mm CVA spacer between the nut and the shock end to extend to 96mm Perfect! These springs are from the DF03 setting spring set and needed another thick preload spacer on top of those pictured to take up the slack. I don't know how long the stock CVA springs are, but probably shorter so you'll need a few preload spacers handy. The Long shock springs are waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay too long. Would have had ridiculous preload built in, which is not good. Got travel? Haven't run it yet, but if it's anything like as good as Ultra G, it will be great. And now it's all done a final thought occurs: In the buggy damper thread you'll find that the next size up piston rod is the 49.5mm long 54043 TRF501 gold coated rods from the Aeration dampers. So, you could go well s*******y and get those for the perfect length without any spacers. Hmmmmmmm......gold bits...... Oh, and here's the awesome original Thunder Dragon promo video Cheers!
  7. Yeah, looks like a bad 5th Gen. Oh well. 5th gen JACCS Accord from LandL when they come back into stock I reckon!
  8. @wtcc5 Do you know if anyone ever made a 6th gen Accord body? I always really liked the 99 btcc car HPI did something a bit like it but i think it's based on the north american accord which looked different. Any ideas?
  9. Well, you already have the ball connectors for the shock ends of your new shock. Do a rough position of of where you need the shock to clear everything, then measure from the outer edge of the ball connector to the inner edge of the shock tower. That should give you an idea of how long a screw you need. Buy some m3 screws around that length (it will probably be 16mm or 20mm long but might be more) and find some spacers from the kit. There's usually some spare from shocks or othet bits, and get it working.
  10. Yes, the scorcher has front unis and camber links, and a rear anti roll bar. The unis are nice, but none of other parts are necessary in my experience. The rear var in particular is very thick and doesn't help handling thats already very "on the nose". The Fire Dragon is just same spec as the Thunder Dragon but with the twin front shocks and the G parts sprue with the wider shock towers. Again, in my experience the best rear setup with this buggy is the narrow original tower with longer rear shocks. If you like the TD, get it. Add the usual bearings and steel pinion, maybe some thicker oil in the front shock than kit, and you have a fun buggy right there.
  11. @Marcus2116 That looks sooooo much better with comical wheels on it. Even the weird stock stance is mitigated. Top work.
  12. Yes! There's a great big playing field opposite out work yard. It's not very busy so i often take a buggy and give it blast before work or on lunch. Just own the weird looks. I think smoking is way more stupid than playing with toy cars.
  13. I'm trying something. Follow my thinking here. On a rwd buggy you run some anti squat at the rear because they are the driving wheels. Under power the suspension stiffens slightly. So, on a front wheel drive car, why not run some anti squat on the front? Keeps the platform stable, and you get anti squat from by angling the front inner suspension shafts up, which gives you kickup. This allows the suspension to dive under braking, improving weight transfer under braking, lightening the rear wheels, loads up the fronts, should improve turn in. What do we think? I have a spacer for the front, and i can get one of the new adjustable blocks for the rear to drop the pin point.
  14. You can fit the Thunder Dragon body to the terra scorcher, but it uses different body mounts (which are in the Scorcher kit). The Thunder Dragon does fit the Scorcher twin shock but needs more trimming than for the monoshock. Having recently built an OG Thunder Dragon i have been pleasantly surprised by how good the monoshock is. It needs some heavier oil than kit, but it works well.
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