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About ThunderDragonCy

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  1. I bought this a few weeks ago when i broke the front tower on my TA06. In the meantime i have installed the original kit plastic tower and as i am selling the TA06 i thought i would offer this up NIP for anyone running an 06. It's the original carbon tower for 55mm dampers, not the tower that came on the TA06R for the short 51mm dampers, so this works with original kit dampers from anythibg except the R. £12 posted in the UK. Happy to post overseas for an extra £2.
  2. @ruebiracer You are a bad man. There are now a heat sink motor mount, aluminium prop shaft drives, aluminium IFS rockets and aluminium rear shock towrr mount on their way from Eagle 😂
  3. @ruebiracer @Seanster43 Thanks for the kind words. It's interesting how subtle changes make big differences. It's entirely possible i just didn't get on top of the setup on my TT02 Type S, as lots of people like them, but as you say, the TB03 seems superior in several key ways, even compared to a Type SR, and I guess a TB05 must be another step again given its compatibility with the TRF419 suspension parts and SSBB shocks. I am keeping an eye on the TC01. The IFS is what attracted me really, as my FF03 sets up great. Even though the TA06 has it too, i was warned off it by experienced other members as being hard work and flawed geometry compared to the TA05 style here. And as you say, it gives options. I shortened the pushrods this week actually because the spring collars were almost topped out to get 6mm ride height, which meant now way of going lower for carpet later in the year, and i guess a more linear shock feel. Shortened the pushrods 1mm each side and everything is much more "in the middle". Thanks for the Eagle racing pointer. I shall have a look.
  4. Postie was kind today. A couple of bits of blue bling, which were quire hard to track down given that they are unique to the TB03 and its 10 years old now. Despite looking lovely, i feel these are must haves for this chassis for durability. I am not a fan of plastic spur gear holders, so on went the alloy version. Also came with four of tamiyas flat head screws for securing the spur gear, rather than the two that were on the kit part. You might also notice ib the top picture that i have taken a dremel to the battery tray to remove the rounded mouldings so square lipos sit on the deck. It wasn't massively hard, but it does leave a pretty messy finish. This is the K9 part hiding at the bottom. It's a sliding boss the screws solidly to the bottom motor hole and has a coressponding slot in the bottom of the motor plate part. It allow you to set the gear mesh without horrendous access issues. This photo also demostrates one of the really classy things about this chassis compared to the ostensibly similar TT02 Type S : a great big solid one piece aluminium motor plate/prop bearing housing/heat sink/bulkhead. Really solid, definitely sucks heat out of the motor and everything always aligned. Lovely. And here it all is back together. Used the opportunity of having covers off to check my prop pin mod, gear mesh/shimming and ball diff and all seem good. I do have the gear diff parts now, but the handling is really good in the street with the ball diffs so there are staying in for now. Hoping to get an evening running at the track later in the week, and i am really excited to run this.
  5. Couple of blue reliability upgrades for my TB03, and a surplus to requirements TA06 carbon front shock tower. Anyone want to make me an offer on that?
  6. My TB03 came with some silver Tamiya dampers that I have identified as being the 53571 TRF Flourine Coated dampers, one of the earliest TRF dampers. They seems very nice, but I also have the option of a set of Yeah Racing TRF-a-like dampers which have ti nitride shafts and bodies, and I have put Tamiya rubber parts in them to they don't leak anymore! If you had the choice which set would you keep? One set needs to stay on the TB03, the other needs to go on my TA06 for sale. All advice welcome. Thanks!
  7. Whilst i agree with a lot of the above about tracks, i think the main culprit is indoor offroad racing, which i accept is massively convenient and low cost and therefore much easier for most clubs. On outdoor tracks a supposedly consistent surface like astro is plenty tricky to drive if there's enough topography. The track at Robin Hood Raceway i go to for tamiya run what ya brung days is really bumpy with lots of gradient and only two really steep tricky jumps that have to be driven slowly in a vintage buggy. If they just put unprepared grass bypasses to these you would have a great track without massive jumps. As for realism, feels like it's one of the regulators to me, qnd that's always poacher turned gane keeper becauae all the rule makers are racers too. Witness the inexorable blobification and homogenisation of the nascent frontie touring car class by zoo racing and a couple of others making blatantly non-scale shells because the rules aren't strict enough, and allowing mid-motor layouts instead of front motor only, killing the distinctiveness. And that has taken all of 9 months to collapse. I think kyosho might hve hit on a bit of a sweet spot for performance vs reakism with these rampahe outlaw. It looks grear, isn't complex, and it probably something tamiya could mostly parts bin using cc01 and DT03 parts. If someone regulated wheelbase, roof height, wheels under the body you would have the basis of a cool race class.
  8. I have the 4 deg too. I will leave these for the moment though.
  9. Put the Sorex32 race wheels/tyres on and the car is just nailed down! I think the used 28s i was using for street running are completely done. Went for blue hard rear and super hard white front springs and it feels really good. Only thing was it was super touchy steering around the straight ahead. It came with 2 deg caster uprights which is less than i have seen before, so i decided to swap in the 6 deg spares i have. First thing i find is that the fittings on the 2 deg c hubs are different, with a kind of all in one bush/ball pin on top. I guess it's some kind of old spec version. Never seen it before and the fittings are the wrong size for the modern c hubs i have. I swiped the fittings off the TA06 and got the 6 deg hubs on More caster in theory calms the steering sown at the expense of turn in speed. And that's exactly what happened! Much less twitchy around the straight ahead, so high speed direction changes are easier. Slower turn in makes it a little more friendly too, but there is a little more understeer. Maybe i can dial that out, but for now i think i have a great base setup to run at the track. I am going to try and get down one evening next week.
  10. I think its hard for me to make a valid judgement, because mainly the TB03 is much easier to handle and more responsive to changes than the TA06, and the TA06 isn't a typical belt drive chassis. The TB03 also has ball diffs vs oil filled gear diffs on the TA06 so there are some fairly glaring differences in specification. I do much prefer the TB03 simply because i have it handling in an easy manner that feels like i could race it for 5 minutes and know what it will do. I think that's much more do with the TA06 being a quirky layout than anything intrinsic in shaft drive, although i did have to start from scratch with the a basic TA06, and the TB03 came to me nicely sorted. I don't know how close to kit setting it was. The TA06 was always quite soft on the throttle compared to my FF03, and the TB03 is very quick accelerating too, which is nice. That could also be the weight though. The TB03 is over 100 grams lighter than the TA06. The other thing that reinforces that it's not shaft drive but simply that the TB03 is a lovely chassis is that i really just couldn't get my TT02 Type S I built to handle at all, and despite being ostensibly identical, the TB03 is just lovely, and very quiet too. The TT02 was so noisy! I would really like to have a go with a decent belt chassis. I imagine I would be quite happy with one of those too. Maybe i need to add a TA05 V2 to the collection to complete the Tamiya IFS trinity 😉
  11. Fickle old me, i haven't driven my FF03 for a few weeks whilst i have been sorting out my new TB03. I have picked up a couple of things though. Firstly, tyres. I bought Sorex32s on the recommendation of the shop local to the track, but they overheated really fast when i was last there. Chatting to some club guys they think they are too soft for FWD. Probably fine for the 4wd, but i need something harder, so i got the BRCA control Sweep 34 fwd, on spoked rims with treaded tyres. They look a little like the Rides i have, but they are belted and designed for sustained racing. Bolted them on for the first time today. Other thing i was suffering from a little was skipping of the front wheels on hard acceleration. Another suggestion was taller gearing, so i got on trusty RW Racing and got a 62t spur and 39t pinion. 2 teeth different to before on each, so no motor position adjustment required. Gives 4.13 FDR vs 4.5 before. Gave it a quick run this evening, and the tyres seem good once they warmed up and there was much less axle tramp and skipping under power so hopefully it won't get the motor too hot over a 5 min heat.
  12. Works great. It's actually not as wide as the latest TRFs, they are 05G/05G at the front. I run 4.5mm wide hexes and the track width is within a couple of tenths of a millimetre of the kit 1A/1A with 6mm hexes. Getting the wheels closer to the steering axis improves the steering apparently. Mainly I did it because these Yeah Racing 1F blocks were a couple of bucks each on rcmart, so it seemed like a good idea.
  13. There was a uk class running, i think under the Iconic banner. It was any Hotshot gearbox car (so you got some bigwigs in there), 2" tamiya wheels, schumacher cat block tyres, sport tuned motor, lipo allowed, only tamiya parts.
  14. Added a few more blue bits to my TB03, and started putting some of the kit parts back on the TA06, getting towards getting it ready for sale.
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