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ThunderDragonCy

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  1. More surgery on the TA06 Lots of blather on my build thread if you're interested. One thing though, this is my first RW Racing spur gear. It's soooooo smooooth 😁
  2. Well, MUCH fiddling this week. Fitted the kit springs. Much stiffer, but seems a little calmer. Ride height was a bit high at the rear, so i pulled out a thin preload spacer leaving some dead 'rattly spring' travel, but that got the rear down to 5mm. Ran it briefly and it seemed a step in the right direction so i needed to figure out how to get rid of the dead travel in the shock. Some surgery..... I didn't really want to rebuild the shocks with a spacer inside, and as things were looking ok on the handling i wanted to dial back the rear toe in too. So, i pulled the rear arms off to install the 1X RF blocks to give 3 deg toe in (down from 4) and whilst the arms were off i took advantage of the reversible option and flipped them. The reversible arms have staggered holes on either side. The kit build has you install them so the rear shock mounts on hole 3 (outermost hole of the inboard pair of holes). Flipping them allows me to use hole 4, the widest possible option. This did exactly what i wanted and required full shock extension to reach it. I took up the slack on the spring with the thin preload spacer and dropped it onto my board. (i hesitate to call it anything as grand as a setup board - it's a spare laminated shelf). The new position had the effect of increasing the leverage and effectively softening the rear end (a good thing for me) as the ride height was down at 3mm. I shuffled the preload spacers to get back to 5mm, reset the droop (4mm) and added some droop to the front (6mm). Ran it for a good few minutes and this definitely heading the right way. I think i might be getting somewhere! I have still ordered 53440 spring set which will hopefully be here in time to do some final tweaking before racing on saturday evening. One final thing: You might have spotted the white spur gear. I had been running an Associated spur but it seemed to be noisy and warp a bit. This is the first RW Racing i have had and it's sooooo good. Prefectly round and straight and the car just purrrrrrs. Lovely!
  3. @Jonathon Gillham As quoted, i have a downloaded copy of @speedy_w_beans chart. 53163 and 53440 are both on there. One of the club guys mentioned my car seemed soft, now we know why. Thanks for making your diffetent rate springs the same colour Tamiya. That's not confusing AT ALL!
  4. @El Dougo Figured out the spring rate. I think the springs i have are way too soft. They are the 53163 set, but they are really soft compared to what you suggest. My current rear red springs are 0.87, the front stiff blue are 1.26. Even the 'stiff' springs from my set are half the stiffness you suggest. The kit silver springs (same as you get the TT01E and TT02) seem a lot stiffer. I am going to fit the kit springs tomorrow and reset the suspension and see what happens. Then maybe get the 53440 set. That has rate options from 1.7 to 2.5.
  5. I like your optimism! Can you explain a couple of things please? What did you mean by 2.7 springs and shocks built with no rebound?
  6. @El Dougo Thanks so much! Will follow those recommendations as i work through and see where i get to.
  7. @El Dougo Ok, here goes! Based on a base TA06 kit with front mounted standard shock, not IFS. CVA shocks with TRF 3 hole pistons. Front suspension: 1D/1D mounts, 4 deg caster C hubs, 6mm alloy wheel hexes, kit uprights and bumpsteer spacers, kit spec 2.5mm spacer under inner pivot ball, innermost camber link hole (longest link as per manual). Shocks on top position 2 (nearly all the way inboard), bottom position as per kit. Blue hard springs from 53163, 500cst oil, 300000cst in gear diff, stiffest gold TA06 sway bar. 0 deg toe in/out, 1 deg neg camber. If I haven't mentioned it, it's same as the kit. Rear Suspension: 1XB/1F mounts for 4 deg toe in, kit uprights, 4.5mm alloy wheel hexes, 1mm spacer under inner pivot ball (kit is no spacers), innermost camber link hole (longest link as per manual). Shocks on top position 2 (nearly all the way inboard), bottom position as per kit. Red soft springs from 53163, 400cst oil, 3000cst in gear diff, no rear sway bar, 2 deg neg camber. If I haven't mentioned it, it's same as the kit. The C hubs and shocks mounts are all the hop up carbon reinforced plastic versions. Tyres/wheels are 24mm wide Sorex 28 slicks. Power is from a 4600 Turnigy Graphene Shorty pushed all the way back, but secure in the battery box using foam blocks. 60A Hobbywing ESC, 17.5t brushless Surpass Rocket V3 motor, 4.4 FDR. Front ride height is around 5.5mm. Rear ride height is 5mm. Front droop is about 3mm. Rear droop is nearer 1mm.
  8. I just read the setup guides. That Hudy one you recommended is good, particularly the look up table, but the rcscrapyard one is super easy to use and understand too. I also just fiddle and see what the car is doing. There is no replacememt for changing something and then running the car. Agreed on racing again. It's a fun night and the guys were so nice. That said i am wondering if i ought not just buy a TT01E kit for 60 quid and race Iconic instead. Less to go wrong!
  9. Ball nuts definitely don't fit vintage cvas. That's why mine switched to black cva2 shocks.
  10. @Jonathon Gillham I am running on asphalt. Its a dedicated track so the surface is good, albeit a little bumpy. It's definitely my car not the track lookibg at the others there. Even the Iconic Tamiya class cars (TT01E and FF01) are seriously hooked up. I have the car much better now. That duff bearing was the biggest thing, but yesterday i changed back to my original servo (a better quality one which i swapped when trying to find the tracking problem) and put the steering ball on a shorter arm setting. That combined with all the other changes seem to have got it in a more benign setup. I am running 300k oil in a front gear diff. It's the thickest i have. I also ran it with my heavier shorty race battery and that made the rear end much more planted, i tuned the expo on my Tx and it tracks pretty straight and it is less edgy. I think i am just not used to how incredibly sensitive on road cars are to small changes in weight and setup. Even my TRF buggies are pretty easy going with setup by comparison. This has led me to the next change which is putting spacers back under the front inner camber link balls to lower the front roll centre. This is back to kit spec. I have realised that removing such large spacers has a massive effect on handling so i want to go back to the kit setting and see. In theory lower front roll centre will give the front more grip due to more roll (which is why i removed them to raise the front roll centre when running RWD to try and push grip rearwards) but i also read that a really high front roll centre also makes the front super responsive which is what i have. I am hoping that raising it will make it less twitchy just off centre, and a little more easy going. As for the difference in springs and setup, it's just following what i know. I was chasing rear grip and trying to make the car less 'on the nose' so just kept adding stiffness to the front and taking it away from the rear until i was at the extremes of the options i have available. No rules of thumb involved at all, just following what i thought the car needed. It's wet today so i can't even run in the street to test setups, but it is drier later in the week. I am also going to have another go at racing this Saturday if i feel like the car is with me.
  11. Did a lot of puzzling with this yesterday. The pulling to the side under load turned out to be a binding/dud rear wheel bearing, so it does go vaguely straight now. I went around and reset the ride height and droop, but left the stiff front, soft rear springs. Definitely a bit better, certainly now the drivetrain is free, but still loose at the back. I turned the dual rate down to 50% and exponential up to 100% and it much less twitchy, but still not the easiest to drive. One of the club guys suggested shortening my sticks and that helped, but it occured to me this morning that i have the option to put the ball on the servo saver in a hole closer to the servo which might also help. I pulled the rear diff apart, check it was free and changed the oil back to 3000cst. I had put 10000 in when i rebuilt the gearbox with the reinforced case, steel cross pins for the bevels and lightweight idler. Whilst it was apart i added a 1mm spacer under the inner camber link balls to lower the rear roll centre to gain some more grip. I also went back to 4 deg rear toe in like when i had running RWD as it had seemed fairly secure at the rear at one point. All of this was an improvement, to the point where i think i could drive and the track with some confidence now, but it still seems a little loose given that the whole setup is now massively rear biased. I am wondering if i got something on the tyres. Going to swap them front to rear today and see if that makes a difference. If it does thrn it looks like i need to buy another set already.
  12. Did my first races with my TA06 Track was ace, the guys there were lovely, but the car was horrible! Soo hard to drive. Shane, but was a nice evening.
  13. Well, i have been trying to get this to stick all week, and i thought i got vaguely somewhere with it. Having painted the body i thought i would chuck in the deep end and have a go at racing at Broxtowe tonight. 5 mins practice and it was basically undriveable. I feared this so i had the front drivetrain built and ready to go so on went the belts, diffs and driveshafts. It was a complete pain in the ******* getting the esc leads not catch the belt where thry have to feed through. Still, got it done evenrually. Unfortunately the car was incredible hard to drive all night. Spoke to some of the other guys (who were universally brilliantly kind, generous and helpful) but there didn't seem to be anything obvious wrong. It never felt keyed into the surface, was wildly oversteering for race 1, made some setup changes and got it a little better, but it kept pulling randomly under power, so i didn't have confience to pin the throttle, and the car fekt super edgy. Even turning the steering down on the Tx it just felt spikey and not very smooth or confidence. Tiny Tx inputs would hace the car veering wildly. In short, not a lot of fun. I am pretty stumped apart from getting a better steering servo maybe? Running the blue hard springs front, stiff front roll bar, soft red rear springs, no bar, 500cst oil all round, lower front roll centre, kit height rear, 2.5 deg rear toe in, zero front, 2 deg canber rear, 1 deg front, 5mm ride height, 2mm rear droop, 3mm front. Seems to me there is something fundamental wrong but i have no idea what. Any thoughts gratefully received and appreciated.
  14. @nowinaminute How about a compromise? See if @rc-martin will get you his twin linkage shock rear end from Shapeways? https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/89318-3d-printed-hotshot-chassis/&do=findComment&comment=746528
  15. The rear bumper on my Thunder Dragon kept getting broken so i just stopped using it. The gearbox still goes together fine without it installed.
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