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ThunderDragonCy

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About ThunderDragonCy

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  1. @TwistedxSlayer I am going to pitch in with TB01. Its the only one with a rally version. Unless you have gone super left field and are doing a touring version of a DF03Ra
  2. @Nicadraus That is a super nice job!
  3. Schumacher truck tyres fit the Blitzer wheels. I use them on my DT03T.
  4. Just a little bit last night, as i have been a bit off rc for a couple of weeks. Strangely flat about it at the mo. Anyway, so lovely M Chassis aluminium dampers turned up from rcmart so I built those and loose fitted them to the TT01E I picked up just before the tier 3 restrictions came into play which stopped me racing. I now have everything i need to turn it into an Iconic stock class racer. I guess it will be ready to go whenever we can race again.
  5. The problem you run into here is the bearing fit fromt wheels. No one else uses them. If you can figure out a front hex conversion (a guy on here did it a while bqck uses Kyosho RB5 front c hubs, knuckles and axles, but i think he deleted it when he left), the Schumacher and Associated both do 12mm hex fit 2.2" stadium truck wheels.
  6. If you are looking at the Rookie Robbie class then it's spec electronics with TBLE02S and Torque Tuned motor so no need to change those. I would definitely get a couple of lipos. They just are better for racing. You have to use a tamiya body in this class so the gazoo is fine, but as mentioned above, it will get wrecked. If you are looking at the Tamiya Cup rules, there's a wide range of motors allowed. This is tricky because as a recent rookie racer myself i jumped in with 17.5 blinky and its sooooooo fast that it took me ages to get used to it. Actually turning down the performance to allow me to kearn to drive turned out better. As you don't have that option with brushed motors, either get one of the 15t motors but gear it down to a sensible speed, or use the end point adjust on your throttle stick to limit top speed. The gearing option is open to tamiya spur gears, get the high speed gear set and a TB05 63t spur gear. RW Racing pinions are allowed so get one of those (0.6mod). For a 15t i would gear it around 5.5FDR to start, but maybe contact the club and ask advice. Also ask advice about tyres and additive. You need race stuff for this. The kit wheels and tyres won't be any good at all. If you still need to buyoil shocks, get the CVA Super mini set as these are shorter than the kit shocks and will let you get the ride height down around 6mm for racing. Also if running this class get a repro body you won't mind getting smashed up. There are some cheap saloon shells around (lexus, subaru etc) that you can just throw some colour on and be fine.
  7. That's great you have a kit on the way. If I may make a suggestion/plug, even the Type SR has no way of fitting an anti roll bar kit using official parts. I got frustrated with this when i had a Type S so i designed a mount kit that you can buy on Shapeways https://www.shapeways.com/product/ZTWKTEHWX/tamiya-tt02-type-s-type-sr-sway-bar-mounting-kit Anti roll/sway/stabilizer bars are pretty much a must have for a race car as they are a powerful and easy to change tuning option. I would also suggest 53440 spring set for another easy tuning option. Start with the white extra hard springs on the front and blue hard on the rear as a starter for 10
  8. @ALEXKYRIAK If its really low you need to get yourself one of the IFS chassis. TA05, TA06, TB03, TB04. Based on my recent experience i would suggest anything except the TA06 😉 Or what about the new TC01?
  9. I say go for it. I have done the same transplant on my Thunder Dragon, and it's fantastic. Definitely not a trad feel any more, but it also does not feel anything like as capable as my DB01 either. It just works nicely. The big plus for the Top Force in doing the fronts is that you will add caster with the DB01 front blocks. This really improves the steering.
  10. Bookmark this. It's a gold for setup info https://www.thercracer.com/2017/01/tamiya-suspension-mount-ultimate.html?m=0
  11. Definitely find out what classes the club runs. I jumped straight into 17.5 blinky touring car (the fastest class at my club) and it is fast and HECTIC. And also there is so much to learn before you are even close to making the car work. I have managed to just about get on top of it now with many hours of solo practice and setup at our outdoor track during the summer, but i have to say that our busiest class is the iconic stock which is mildly modified TT01E. I have picked up a car to run in this as a bunch of the fellas have formed a sub class heat with torque tuned motor and fixed gearing. It's not that quick, but close racing, cheap, fun and much less to fiddle with/worry about on setup. Not everyone's cup of tea, granted, and if you have buggy racing experience you'll be way ahead of me when i started. That said, i had done quite a lot of astro track running with a TRF buggy before touring car racing, and compared to that even 17.5 touring cars are REALLY FLIPPIN FAST 😁 Takes some getting used to. If you do go all in, get a build thread going and let us know how you go. Would love to see a TA07MSX go together and go racing.
  12. Picked up a TT01E for a bit of iconic class racing at the club. It's come with 55mm mini shocks, but these give way too high ride height (about 12mm). I need some 50mm shocks. Are the super mini cvas 50mm?
  13. Not sure it is directly pointed out in the manual, but just fit the bottom of the shocks to the outermost holes in the arms. Depends on the grass. They have pretty decent clearance, but test and see.
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