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ThunderDragonCy

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About ThunderDragonCy

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  1. Just get an RCON Design m chassis rs200 and an mf01x. Done
  2. Glad you got something out of it. I feel your pain, and had similarly wayward frontie handling the other week on my FF03. If I hadn't had a 4wd to run the last heat with I suspect I would have chucked the FF in the bin! quite bored of indoor/carpet stuff. I just can't get the cars working like I can on tarmac outside. Very much looking forward to outdoor season. Hope your indoor races get better.
  3. I had no idea the TB02 had a 1 piece prop. That's madness! Did the EVOIII share that design? Sorry to disagree @svenb but rather predictably I think the TB03R is the best. But I am a sucker for IFS. Mmmmm....rockers.....
  4. If you can afford it then Xv01 will be excellent, but I recently rebuilt my TA02 as a rally car with 64mm cva mini shocks in place of the kit 55mm shocks and it is really quite good. With rally blocks it has over 15mm of ground clearance at ride height with loads of droop. I have put soft buggy front springs on it and it rolls and moves around a lot, but it's good. Nice thing is the suspension as no stops or restrictor blocks in it like the TT0X cars so you can get it properly jacked up. Also because it is mid motor you can fit any shell you like. XV01 with front motor can restrict use of certain bodies. TA02 calibra rere means there are loads around at the moment. I got the shop to split a calibra kit and keep the body, wheels, tyres, silver can motor and ESC and got it brand new for 100 quid.
  5. Doing a bit of parts chess with some spares. Anyone got a spare TA02 tub they would sell? It's for a runner so used is fine so long as the screw holes are in good nick. Battery holder would be a bonus, but not a deal breaker. Also after the gear shafts the idler and spur gears run on in the TA02/01/DF01 rear gearbox. Again, used is fine. What have you got?
  6. Selling the custom Thundershot chassis motor plate I designed. It is 3D printed in polished bronze/silver steel from Shapeways. There won't be any more because it was unbelievably hard to tap threads into! This mount allows you to run a 12t or 11t pinion on your Thundershot chassis, giving gear options of 9.6 and 10.5 FDR. I found that running a 17t brushed motor on grass overheated even with a 13t pinion on the kit motor mount, but I could run the 12t at it was good. If you have something really tasty like an old 14x2 or something the 11t would be great. It is used, but proven to work. It comes with 2 steel 32dp RW Racing pinions in 12t and 11t to suit. £25 posted UK.
  7. Decided I am selling this. It's on sale in the Sales forum
  8. Selling the almost stock build Thunder Dragon I built during lockdown 2020 out of some of my spares and plenty of new bits. This started out as my 1988 original Thunder Dragon. Still has that original shell (badly painted by teenage me and much used and repaired), original bumper, motor plate, front anti roll bar. Has original first run high pivot c hubs and rear uprights, but newer rere versions also included. Otherwise all new plastics - tub, arms, shocks, gear cases, gear internals. It's broadly a stock build, but has some thoughtful upgrades. Running long shocks at the rear (a period hop up part), my own design reinforced A5 and carbon fibre B8 parts. No arm pin failures here! Most screw pins replaced with e clip shafts, full bearings, alloy 12mm hexes with JC Racing Egress style 2.2" wheels with Schumacher mini spike tyres. Also comes with spare wheels with mini pin tyres. Really lovely reliable runner. Mainly been run in the park and at a couple of track days. It's got a silver an motor, 17t pinion (with spare steel 13t in the bag if you fit a hot motor) TBLE02S ESC with deans plug. High torque steering servo. Just add radio and battery and you are good to go. It's got loads of ground clearance compared to modern buggies so it's great for things like running on grass in parks. I can supply a Flysky 3GRE receiver if that's helpful at no extra charge. It has been really fun rebuilding and running this, but I have a really hopped up Thunder Dragon as well and this just doesn't get used enough. Time for someone else to have fun with it. £95 posted in the UK ONO
  9. Weather was a little warmer today (8 deg so not hot!) and a little damp, but it was quiet and I wanted to run my car to see how the anti roll bars felt. I popped my old Ride cut slicks on and ran it with a shorty lipo which fitted perfectly in the centre of the battery tray with the ribs removed. Just needed a couple of small chunks of battery foam to hold it snug. I raised the ride height to 6mm and stuck with the Mondeo shell. Running was uneventful. It was slippery, but balance was good and there was enough grip for it to be fun and not frustrating. Pleasingly the anti roll bars don't seem to have drastically changed anything with how the cad feels, and it was nice just to run a car. There has been very little of that recently. I checked it over and despite the super close clearances, the roll bars were unmarked so they work and don't catch. Winner!
  10. Just Google anodising and you will get a bunch of people near you who do it. Most have minimum orders and some don't do colours, and much like RIT dye, one company's red might not match another's, but ring around. What you would probably need to do for such tiny parts is wait until they get a big job through in that colour and yours can go in with.
  11. Seeing a few TT01 builds made me realise I did these upgrade rear uprights for my TT01E a few months back but hadn't put them on my shop. I designed them to improve the grip at the rear of the notoriously loose TT01 and they worked a treat! They had a few features which make them unique compared to other hop up rear uprights: 1) More rear toe in = more traction and stability. 2.5 degrees of toe in is more than any other upright on the market 2) Revised pivot positions lowers the rear roll centre and adds 1 deg of camber to improve grip and traction. The TT01 is notoriously loose at the rear. This part really improves that. 3) Works with the kit plastic driveshaft and cups. All the other alloy parts available require you to change to steel driveshaft 4) Works with the solid kit upper arms. Because the roll centre and camber are added by a revised lower pivot position, there is no need to expensively upgrade to adjustable to arms. Just fit these and away you go. Available here. I haven't managed to make a pair so they are separate left and right products. The versatile plastic was perfectly strong enough, even for racing. http://shpws.me/SX3P http://shpws.me/SX3Q
  12. I can't help with those exact parts, but I designed carbon fibre replacements with 3d printed blocks to connected them. The 3d parts are on shapeways http://shpws.me/SjSc If you know somewhere you can get the carbon or frp plate cut (needs to be 2mm for rear deck, 3mm for shock tower) PM me for the CAD.
  13. That's all they need. I had a TT01E stock class race car earlier this year and only mods allowed were alloy motor mount, prop shaft and proper shocks. I put thick grease in the front diff, very stiff front springs, soft rear, 500 wt oil front, 400 rear and it was quite nice to handle. Adding the toe in rear uprights really helps calm the back end down if you have no racing rules to meet. After that just enjoy.
  14. You definitely need the long eyelets. Check out this photo of a racing fighter black edition
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