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About ThunderDragonCy

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  1. This is really cool. I like that tamiya are finally doing some handling upgrades on the swing axle stuff.
  2. Ride height definitely has a strong effect, but with the battery on board it sits at about 22mm and fairly level. I don't think I want it much lower as it's already quite hard to find grass short enough to run it, and the astro track I occasionally get to is quite bumpy. I could quite easily try softer rear springs and use preload clips to play around with the ride. I want to see how all the changes I have made now work first though. I have a feeling the diff will be quite helpful, but it will be good to know for sure.
  3. @ruebiracer This is fantastic! Two questions: 1) Could you skip the step where you turn the 4mm section for the bearing if you used an inch size bearing? You would need to make the hole in that diff half inch size too, but that's easier that needing a lathe. 2) Could the TD4 slipper kit work too? I have one and i am 99% sure it's same as the 201 kit. This is more easily available at the moment. Thanks!
  4. Additional: All this oversteer behaviour got me wondering about the front of the car. Buggies tend to roll oversteer if the front is too soft in roll. I checked and realised i had the other (lower) inner camber link setting available on my front tower. That will raise the front roll centre and reduce roll. Changed too many settings at once probably, but wanted to tinker
  5. Found my pin vise set, so got back inside the dampers on my Grasshopper 2 Ultra G Evo Black Edition and opened out the holes. Also cracked open the trans to get some thicker oil in the diff.
  6. Enjoyed reading that, thanks. Love love LOVE the colour scheme. Looks fantastic. Enjoy the build and the car. I had a DB01R for a while and they are lovely runners.
  7. Finally found my pin vise set! This pushed me into stripping the rear end down and getting oily. Insides of the trans all look good, but the diff itself was running quite rough. I have never used the full steel internals in one of these ta06 diffs. I always put the steel cross shafts in but used the plastic bevel gears thinking i would replace them when worn. Even on my trf211 or ff03 they never did! The steel bevels in this are noticeably heavy and run quite rough. Need to keep an eye on it. They appear properly shimmed and adjusted. Anyway, the limited running i have done has me wondering if i need some more diff action. If the car is sliding out of a corner it tends to spin up a wheel and loop rather than driving forward through the slide. I had 3000 oil in there, which is pretty usual for a buggy gear diff, but it felt very open in action in my hands. I pulled it out and put 10k oil in simply because that's what i had next step up. Doesn't feel too stiff. Hope that it's good. One side note: Despite being efficient in terms of design and doubling up certain bolts in the trans to do two jobs at the same time, it is really quite tricky to take apart and put back together again. Something to learn for the next one. Now the trans is all buttoned up i pulled the dampers apart. If you haven't read the rest of this/can't remember, i got some onroad SSBB 11mm diameter pistons for the cva shocks, with 4x1mm holes. I did some maths comparing to small and big bore buggy damper pistons and opened up two of the holes in each piston to 1.2mm. Now i have found the damping a bit much having run the buggy, i simply opened out the other 1mm holes to 1.2mm. So, i have 4 x 1.2mm holes front and rear. As a comparison, the buggy big bore (12mm piston, not 11mm as here) uses 2 x 1.7mm holes front. That's 4.54mm2 of damper port area. 4 x 1.2mm holes is 4.52mm2 port area. But in the smaller 11mm damper this should theoretically be softer as there is more "hole" than "piston" in the 11mm vs 12mm. It really doesn't feel that way. I rebuilt them with 450 oil front expecting much softer feel, and they felt good. Not fast or under damped, just good. I rebuilt the rears and put 400 oil in and with the springs i have running they still felt a bit slow and "heavy" action. So, i immediately emptied them and put 300 back in like last time out running. Feel good now. Lively, but still damped. Hopefully they will be good and get me some more traction. Oh, i also added a spacer above the spring cup to limit travel as i relaised when bebuilding the rears this was possible Looking forward to testing the new setup. Only thing i can think of that these dampers feel so heavily damped for similar hole sizes to aeration dampers is that the SSBB pistons must fit more closely in the bore, with less gap for oil around edges. Despite the faff these do feel great and still way cheaper than big bores even with buying the extra internals.
  8. Well, it's not worked. Well, at least not with 45t crown gears. I ran it on quite long grass today and it clicked a lot. Real shame. I am going to talk to RW Racing to see if they will make me some 47t gears.
  9. Got the front done today Very pleased with how little wear there is on the drivetrain and how smooth and relatively clean it all is. I can't have cracked this gearbox open for over 4 years. The giveaway on that (and the general age of this buggy) was a surprising number of pretty chewed up JIS screws in that light zinc plate. They must be original 1987! The plastics aren't, but i clearly held onto the fixings. I replaced any M3 with a stainless hex head. The self tappers were left as i didn't want to screw up the threads. Narrowed diff gear fitted perfectly. All put back together now. One thing i noted was that it's quite involved to pull the transmission apart. Unlike the Hotshot there are a lot of parts like the shock tower and A5 that bridge the gearcase to help hold it together. Get a reinforced A5 and these really quite robust. I think it will get a run at the park if the grass has been cut. Be nice just to check it all works before taking it to the track. It's a shame the gear teeth don't match the gear diff. Although i have sorted the handling on mine, the base sorc chassis is so oversteery off throttle on corner entry that being able to have a ball diff at the back with stiffer action and an open diff at the front would probably help the natural balance of the stock chassis.
  10. If you want spot lights, search for the Tamiya Hornet Z Parts. They are on there with driver figures. You will need some black paint to match your gh2 body. The rear wing is a 3d printed AMPRO item and quite expensive. I would probably not bother with that for now. Black Edition is a great looking kit. Have fun with it
  11. Don't know specifically for the m08, but my experience if the yeah racing dampers is that the springs are very stiff and quite variable. The dampers themselves are pretty good, but try getting the Tamiya Short Spring 2 set which will get you good springs.
  12. Took a chance to run at the track today. No photos as it was only half an hour, but definitely improved. I measured the ride height of my regular FF01 racecar and it was way higher than the EVO. I either got my measurements off the LA test car wrong or did something wrong in the CAD. The racecar with no battery was nearly 7mm front and more rear. And still had decent droop. The EVO was 5mm front (also no battery) and barely 2mm droop, even with the +2mm eyelets installed on the dampers and lots of spring preload. I tried a couple of things and ended up using the cheap basic ball connectors out of a hotshot kit as eyelets which was +4mm over a short eyelet. The +6mm eyelets from the CVA parts tree were too much. This allowed me to keep the 53440 yellow front springs, but with only a couple of turns of preload and plenty of droop. Ride height at the rear seemed ok so I left it. Ran it at the track. Way better! Much better front grip, less grounding out and bouncing, to the point where the rear was sliding around quite a lot until the tyres warmed a little. Got a few good laps in, but the car was still a little inconsistent. It was obviously rolling quite a lot but wasn't grip rolling, but the rear was sometimes three wheeling through tight corners. I dropped the front ride height a touch using preload and the front roll was better, but the balance was even more edgy. Decided to try adding length to the rear dampers too in search of droop, given I had had to lengthen the fronts so much. I put the spare +2mm eyelets on and it was definitely better. The wheels stayed on the ground at least! I wound on a bit more rear camber as the outside rear wheel was seeming very "stood" when I could see it on the exit of a tight corner. A little better again. Not perfect, but it was windy and not especially warm and very used tyres. I do wonder if by going to the long arm suspension I have raised the roll centres a bit much. The top rear camber links definitely aren't as steeply angled down as the stock car. Maybe I need some stiffer front springs to control the roll a bit better from the front? Don't know, but it's definitely better now. Next time I think I need to try the other battery layout, which would mimic the regular FF01.
  13. Well, getting this fixed up got me looking for opportunities. I was pretty much passing the club on my way to meet my family for lunch today, so I set off an hour earlier to give this a go I had time before I left to put 300 oil in the rear dampers (down from 400) and I also swiped the similar length (but much softer damped) shocks off Ultra Hornet as well. First things first: It ran really nicely! Balance was a little understeer, but generally nice. Certainly WAY better than that first run. Had a really lovely feel, and there is definitely a great buggy under there somewhere. It was diffing out a bit and spinning on corner exits a little. Not much, but enough to be careful on bumps with the throttle. I swapped the softer dampers on and traction was better. I think I definitely need to open out the holes in the pistons in the dampers and soften them off a bit. Not too much though. It absorbed landings nicely and was generally good. Might try some slightly heavier oil in the rear diff too. I also played with the slipper and got that set nicely. It was pretty much locked to start with! Encouraging, and so relieved it's nice!
  14. Ultra G Evo is back together. Despite having had the parts for weeks, I have been a bit "off" RC. I think it's because work keeps getting in the way of going to track meets, so I am not motivated to fix my cars. Possibly also the fact that first run handling was really poor, so I a bit annoyed it wasn't better. Anyway, here it is And here is the reinforced front arm mount Extra tabs in front and behind the arms. Ditched the Schumacher pins for some 1/8" ground rod off eBay, cut to length with my cable cutters. Not subtle, but it fits much more snuggly in the parts. That 3.2mm drill must have just opened the hole out too much in the first version. FYI 1/8" is 3.175mm. Due to the massive understeer it was suffering on the first run I took the opportunity to flip the front arms so they are in short wheelbase position. It's only 3 or 4mm, but I think it will help. I think the stance is nicer if nothing else. I have also lowered the roll centre at the rear, which should also help. I noticed on Ultra Hornet the top camber links are angled down towards the middle quite a lot (which lowers the roll centre, and in theory improves steering), so I have gone in that direction here too. Still concerned the damping is a bit much with my trick pistons, but at least I can pop some 300cst oil in them at the track if I feel the need. No idea when I might run this, but nice to get it done.
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