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About ThunderDragonCy

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  1. Used Yeah Racing battery strap in alloy, with a small filed section so it would fit a TB03. Will fit all Tamiya cars that use the 2 post battery strap, so the TA05, TB03, TB04, TT02, FF03, DB01 plus some more i probably haven't thought of. £7 posted in the uk
  2. @Collin I don't know much about brushed motors, but maybe a lower FDR wouldn't be too much slower? 8 seems quite high geared for a brushed motor, so maybe a lower gear will let it spin up more easily and lower temps. I have just had to get a special motor plate made for my Thunder Dragon to allow me to drop the FDR from 8.86 to 10.46 and that is just to allow me to run a 17 turn brushed and full gas. I would try a FDR around 10 or 11 before going brushless. That 13x2 should rev to the heavens if it can get on top of the gear.
  3. No, there isn't. It's all gears inside there, so it's fixed IR
  4. Super Sabre. I cast no aspertions on its performance; its actually a great buggy. However, the fact it was released about a month before the all new Thundershot means there will never be many.
  5. I am not surprised at all. The layout you have now is fundamentally very good and the suspension on the dyna was always great. My Grasshopper2 Ultra G moves amazingly well on track, and i wasn't even expecting much of that. You can't argue with physics: Mid-motor, longitudinal battery will always give a sound handling balance IMO.
  6. Actually getting into it further, because the nimh thing ended up not working. Seems that the replacement motor screws i was using were 1mm too long and were doing something weird to the motor. Tested the esc on another motor, worked fine. Then tested on the original motor when i pulled it out of the car, worked fine. Put it back in, didn't work. Added some washers to the motor bolts, works fine. @Jonathon Gillham try some washers or slightly shorter motor bolts.
  7. Was just about to throw an almost new 1060 in the bin when i stumbled upon this thread. Switched to nimh mode and it seems sorted. Thanks!
  8. The inner camber link is still lower than the outer mount, and your understanding is completely right. Just when i tried a shorter link which raises the roll centre and increases the camber gain the rear lost grip. Just my preference though. You clearly have a good grounding and the fundamentals are the same, so run kit setup, then make single changes from there. You'll figure it out.
  9. @ruebiracer Thanks Matthias. We should rename you The Hop Up Whisperer 😂 You are right, i am quite happy with my 55mm dampers. This outdoor track is very bumpy. I will look out for the 3Racing tower, but as postage will probably make it very expensive i will probably measure my tower and draw up one to get made by fibrelyte if i want one. I am glad i got it working. Such a nice car. I am kind of curious how a TB05 stacks up against it.
  10. Yes the 62 is from RW. Its 48dp. They have 48dp spur gears down to 45t in stock.
  11. Anti squat is really powerful in buggies, but it rarely used in touring cars. As for how i set the car up, i just started with the kit settings and adjusted from there when i didn't like the handling. Having tried some different rear uprights and not liking it, my preference for the FF03 is the kit rear uprights (or their TRF416 Reinforced version) with 2 holes on top. Camber link set to the longest possible, so most outboard upright hole, most inboard hole on the chassis side for the ball screws. The ball screw on the upright has no spacers. To adjust the roll centre i add or subtract spacers underneath the chassis side ball screw. You just have to remember everything is backwards if you do this. Raising the inner ball studs lowers the rear roll centre (for more roll and grip) and vice versa. The 53539 spacer set is a very worthwhile purchase for these cars. As for DCJs, not worth it unless your kit comes with dogbones, in which case I would get them because they aren't much more than universals. If you pick up a Pro or R kit with universals, not worth it IMO. I had universals already, and haven't noticed a difference in smoothness. The front axle still bounces a bit under power, and the fact my diff is stiff but not locked means the DCJs aren't needed to protect the drivetrain like they are with a spool.
  12. Remember my FF03 has my 4 gear transmission which i specially designed to run the spur shaft closer to the motor, but i believe the IR is same as the FF04 at 2.6. I always use 48dp to get my touring car gearing. Tamiya just don't make anything close. I run 62t spur and 39t pinion. I guess if you have a source for large 0.6mod pinions you could get close with the Tamiya 63t spur from the TB05, but no one in the uk makes anything bigger than 32t in 0.6mod. We are fortunate that we have RW Racing. They make a huge range of 48dp and 64dp gears.
  13. 85mm for the rear, although again, i found something a touch shorter works better for high grip surfaces. The hicaps, are 82mm, for example, and i have a couple of o rings inside my yellow cva shocks on my OG Thunder Dragon.
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