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ThunderDragonCy

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  1. Received the right hand steering arm i designed for my TA06 last week, so i spent a few hours today fitting it and recommissioning the car. Works well and lovely. Full blather on the build thread as usual
  2. Finally got the part last week, and decided today's project would be fitting and testing. This is the chassis as it stood, with ESC and servo removed. Fitting was pretty straightforward. I found that the standoff boss i modelled in copied from the plastic kit part doesn't work with the yeah racing aluminium steering set i have. Luckily all i needed to do was cut the boss off flush with the arm and it all fit fine. In the usual way, before fitting i drilled out the 3mm hole with a 3.05mm drill, and the threaded holes with a 2.5mm before tapping half way. This gives the threads on the screwthreads a start then they self tap the last couple of turns which makes them tight and stay put. Here it is installed Next was to sort the servo flip. I had a spare TA06 servo tray in kit plastic because one of the reinforced sprues i bought for something else had the serbo tray on too. As you can see, the tab on the left stops it fitting. I cut the tab off and trimmed a couple of other places until it slid in nicely, then used the holes in the tray as a drill guide to drill the deck. This worked a treat. I put a block of wood under the deck to drill and it all went nicely. On the underside you need to countersink the holes. After a disaster trying to do this with a 6mm drill on my TRF211 and just tearing a 6mm hole through the deck, i have just done this by hand since then. Stanley knife at an angle, round and round. Keep test fitting screws until the heads are flush. And fitted. You can see how much i trimmed off the left side First test fit up and the belt and braces securing nut i gave on the servo saver interferes with the belt. Plan B Rerouted the belt by lowering the tensioner and running the lower run over it. Not sure if this is better or worse. I removed the nut from the back of the servo saver and added a 2mm spacer on the front so the bull screw thread is flush. Once that was working, i measured up the wires on the new justock ESC and soldered up the motor, then caregully installed and stuck everything down. The servo wire is routed through the battery compartment bejind the shorty battery which easily avoids the belt. Much neater! Gave it a run out, and it works! Even survived a couple of kerb hits. It was testing. Honest. Shut up! Anyway, it was the first time i had run the car with much stiffer springs too (white front, blue rear) and it drives so nicely! Even on the bumpy tarmac at 5mm ride height it was really planted and responsive. I think i now realise running soft springs causes lota of bottoming out which really unsettles the car. Really great that it feels so good, but slightly frustrating that it will be months until i can track it. Hey ho. Here it is all dressed up I'll putting the steering arm on Shapeways soon.
  3. The hotshot is still in production as a rere. The Hotshot2 was never re-released. It was the third buggy in the hotshot series, but is unique in a number of ways to the original and super hotshot.
  4. Well that was successful! Set up the car roughly. 6mm ride height gave no droop at all either end, so a bit of adjustment was needed. This is clearly due to the wider set suspension points. After a bit of head scratching i lengthened the pushrods by 1mm each side so i could get some front droop, and also needed to lengthen the camber links by 1mm to get the camber back to a sensible level. At the rear there were no adjustment options on the chassis so i unscrewed the eyelets on the rods by 2mm per side to get some droop. Gave it a quick run at lunchtime and what a difference! The front end is absolutely nailed. Turns in easily and puts the power down cleanly out of corners. It even lets you power out with steering angle. Previously it would understeer on power. Its so planted now that the rear was really sketchy! I ended up taking the rear roll bar off which helped a lot, but it could still take more rear grip. To give you an idea of the change previously i had the red soft bar on the front and the medium yellow bar on the rear. Now i have the red front and nothing on the back. Later on i did a little more tweaking and put it on race rubber. No additive, but felt like i ought to try and get the setup working on these. Was nice to get some rc driving in.
  5. Ran my FF03 in the street outside my house with the new arms and got it used to racing boots
  6. Modelsport were great for my first kit and few bits. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-rc-lunch-box-mini-sw-01/rc-car-products/440975 They have a power bundle which includes everything you would need.
  7. I have a Comical Hornet. They are super easy to build. The gearbox even comes pre-assembled (although it doesn't have proper bearings in it). Don't fret about getting involved. Tamiya manuals are the best, and it's all screwdrivers and pliers. Nothing too complex. Take your time and enjoy it. The hardest bit (IMO) will be cutting out and painting the body, but even that just has to be simple one colour for the Comicals because the decals are so good. If you want something super small for indoors though, try the SW01 mini Lunchbox.
  8. Been quiet on this for a while as mostly i have just been running it occasionally and having fun. I figured out the steering catching issue which was driving me nuts. On an rctech thread someone pointed out the steering arm on the servo side is handed. It looks symmetrical because there's aboyt 1mm different in arm lengths. There's a dot on one side show which way up and it actually in the manual. Flipped it over and all is well. Anyway, the reason for the resurrection is that i got reading the kentech blog on his front wheel drive adventures. If you are interested start here and follow the links forward https://kentech.wordpress.com/2015/09/19/ff-04-evo-g4-the-2016-ff-test-car-20739548/ This got me properly down the rabbit hole, especially as he pressed two of my particular rc buttons: Tamiya chassis and transmission conversions. He grafted the 4 gear standup transmission from a TRF201 onto his FF04 and subsequent FF2017 custom TRF build. Now you are talking! My experience with designing 3 and 4 gear transmissions for my TRF211 buggy meant i had a good basis to start playing with this idea. At the same time, on my clubs fb page people got talking about what we might race if we get an outdoor season this year and a couple mentioned getting fronties. We had a chat about potential rules and settled on the easiest option beibg simply the current 17.5 blinky, open tyres and gearing 10th touring rules, with an encouragement to use frontie bodies instead of race blobs. So, a plan forms. Get some updates on my FF03 and design a couple of improved transmission options to see how they go, and eventually get a new frontie race shell. Last night i did the first step. TA07 medium stiffness arms for the FF03. I have the same shape TRF419 hard arms on my TA06 and they definitely helped settle the car, but given we'll be outside on asphalt traction is the thing so i went for something a little softer. The main reason i went with them is because unlike the reversible arms in the kit, the TA07/TRF419 arms have 3mm offset. Usually this is to the rear. But on the FF03, the shock is driven from the rear of the arms, and the sway bar attachs to the front. The big advantage on a frontie is that moving the wheels forward really improves the weight distribution. All back together: The rear arms are basically the same shape as the reversible arms, but a bit stiffer. The shock mount hole is a little further out that the inner hole used on the reversible arms, but not quite as far as the outer hole. I got it back together last night but it will need setting up as the forward offset will need slightly more length adding to the turnbuckles to get the camber and toe correct again at the front, and the different shock mount holes on the arms will need the ride height checking. I suspect the front might nees the pushrod tutnbuckles a little longer because the arm hole is a little wider than on the reversible arms. It did jyst still fit my 306 shell, but you can see the offset forwards As for transmissions, i have been emailing kenneth from kentech to get some advice and been putting together a design for a 4 gear transmission which is massively better weight distribution. Apparently the 4 gear spinning the motor the opposite way really improves traction. I have limited the size of the spur gear to 69t 48dp and pulled the motor right back against the suspension block, and the layshaft back and down as far as i can. I have some cheap 3D printed clear plastic rapid prototypes ordered to check fit, then i'll get a proper one from Shapeways.
  9. If the car feels tight it then it sounds like the belts are too tight, and/or you have managed to get the diffs not quite aligned in the bulkheads. Those eccentrics around the diff bearings are pretty tricky to get lined up. For belts, thry actually need to be quite loose. My 2-3mm of vertical movement when you push down in the middle of them. Pull the diff covers off, find the little dots on tne eccentrics and make sure as a minimum they are setup as per the manual. If they are, rotate the dot towards the centre of the car one click (do both diffs) and see how that goes. If the slipper is setup as per manual it should run fine. Easy way to check is to undo the preload nut 1/4 tutn at a time and thrn give the car full throttle. Keep doing this until it doesn't take off very quickly and you'll the motor whizzing away. That's the slipper slipping. Tighten it back up a 1/4 turn and you're set.
  10. Super Cold Buster Black Edition. HTH HAND 😂
  11. Should be good for a while. Its worth getting hardened or steel pinion to replace the kit one eventually.
  12. Looks so awesome. Glad you got to run it.
  13. Gave Ultra G a quick spin in the (thankfully completely empty) park with its new lid on. Don't know whether it's Emperors New Clothes, but it doesn't half shift! I guess saving 200grams off the shell will do that. Really wish the stickers were proper flouro. love this buggy though.
  14. That motor is way too much for the TBLE02S. Your confusion probably lies in the fact that in brushless mode it will happily run 13.5 turn motors, which is an entirely different thing. Stick the silver can back in for now. If you want to run your 16t motor, get a hobbywing 1060 esc and you will have no bother at all, as well as lipo compatibility.
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