BBB Spread

Any recommendations for a replacement tire for a basher? I'm think the chevrons work great, but I thought I might try something new.

I'd be looking to get the tire / wheel package. 2.2 is about right. I'd just need to be careful about the outside diameter of the tires.

Just a little curious, but has anyone out there tested aftermarket tires for the Kong head? Tamiya chevron tires are great all-around, but I was thinking a little bit more about some snow / mud tires for the winter.

Interestingly, I thought that was the case the first time, (hence my original story) so I moved the front set to the back, but forgot to put the dog bone in one of the wheels. Hence my comment about the differential not engaging. It's one of those dumb things that I spent troubleshooting, where I was actually the trouble.

you're correct.....Actually it was the dog bones, and the outdrive cups that they sit in. I went ahead and updated to the hot racing set to give them a little more strength.

Thanks for the help guys. I dialed it back a little bit. I've got punch control at about 25% and total power at about 90%. Everything's working as it should be now. 2's is plenty 3s is ridiculous.

So I decided to throw my Castle Creations 3800 KV into my Tamiya heavy dump. Of course the castle motor has tremendous tourqe , but I figured with the metal diffs all would be well. Well after popping a few wheelies and hearing a hard clicking sound turns out the tourqe was causing the wheelies to hit on the wheelie bar so hard it's bent the dog bones, cut grooves in the drive cups (caused by the dog bones) and then finally ripped the rear diffs. I know it's the rear diff because I took the front drive cups and dog bones off the front, and put them in the rear and even spinning the rear wheels by hand the differential won't engage under any moderate amount of tourqe. I see folks run all kinds of brushless motors in this chassis, and usually anything below 4000 KV I've seen work well. Anyone else out there have this problem, and how did you deal with it? Are there any upgraded kits out there for the drive cups? I know hot racing makes the driveshafts and dog bones, but if I use steel for those I may need to do the same for the drive cups.

Thanks guys. I went and placed the order. Really appreciate your input.

Today I converted my dt03-t to 12 mm hex front wheels via the GPM racing kit. I then mounted some 2.2 in. Duratrax Banditos. The rear wheels fit fine, but because of the design of the aqroshot there is a bit too much front axle and as a result the Duratrax Wheels don't fit. I know there are people out there who have 12mm hex aftermarket wheels and tires on this chassis, so I'm curious to see how this problem was solved.

Okay.... So I ran it with a 3s 40c 4200 MH battery tonight and it ran about 34 miles an hour. Surprisingly it handled the speed very well for a 6x6 truck, but I credit a lot of that to the fact that I have oil-filled aluminum body shocks. The ESC and the motor we're barely breaking a sweat. I know a lot of folks are Castle creation fans and I have to admit I like their products, but for the money these hobbywing set-ups are incredible. By the way the batteries I use are hobbystar, and whether I'm running a 7600 MH or 4200 mAh I feel like I can run these things forever and I never seem to get below 7.5 volts. In other words at least for the 7600 MH I'm running the car pretty hard for about 45 minutes and I've still got life left.....I've never actually hit the cutoff. I'll try it next weekend with a 20 tooth pinion and see where that gets me.

I just wanted to give a review of the hobbywing 4000kv / Max 10 combo in the Konghead. The motors actually got quite a bit of power and given traction will actually pull a few wheelies in reverse. The motor and ESC on 2s never really get above 100 degrees which is rather nice especially because it was about 85 degrees outside today. Top speed on about a 30 yard dash was about 25 miles an hour which is plenty. This was done on the stock 18 tooth pinion. I'm going to try a few separate runs with the 20 tooth pinion, and then a separate run on 3s which I'll report back. Truthfully though the fact that you can pop wheelies on 2s in a 6x6 thoroughly impressed me. I'd also say that 3s may be a bit much given additional power would likely just create additional instability and make it a harder to drive. As far as the ESC goes it is sensorless, and there was no cogging which is probably do to the low gearing on the Konghead itself. For the hundred bucks I paid which included the ESC program a card I'd say the combo was well worth it.

I can't really speak to the arrma Granite Mega 4x4, but I do own the 4x4 senton Mega. I put a castle 4600 KV motor and Sidewinder SV4 in it, and stock gearing and transmission handle it just fine. Great truck for the money. Durable, and takes a pounding. The granite Mega uses the same setup its chassis is just a little shorter so I assume the comments should hold for this model as well.

That would work on a stock motor housing, but I modified mine for better cooling. Motor temps were in the 220 range before, but now they are at around 150 after a full 3s battery. I basically cut away the rear portion and added a full heatsink. I was hoping someone tried the Traxxas Rustler wheelie bar as the appearance of the bolt pattern looks like I could mount it under the gearbox.

since you're running this kind of power, you've probably noticed that a wheelie bar would be quite helpful. Have you found a wheelie bar that actually works, or fits on the chassis with little modification?

It's the sidewinder SV3. The cogging wasn't terrible, but was noticeable. Going down a tooth didn't hurt top speed to bad, but cured what cogging there was. It's probably my esc settings. I'm new to the product, and am learning the ropes. What settings do you run? Do you use castlelink?

The 16t fits well, but not perfect. It was needed to counter the cogging issue and help on the starts.

So for an update, I replaced the spur and the bearings and did a speed run with a 2S 75C lipo w 16t pinion and got to about 46mph. It wheelies quite easily even when moving at a good speed. Checked the spur gear after the run and it was perfectly fine. I just got my compact 3S lipo in the mail, so I can't wait to see what that does. BTW If you've never tried Hobbystar batteries I would give them a shot. Great power, run times, and prices.

It's the stock 17t pinion for the DT-03t. I decided after I posted to take a look at the bearings within the spur gear, and the one on the outside looks like it failed. I lossed my fast eddy bearing (sealed) and used some other one I had from a HK seller on ebay. Looks like that bit me in the end. that 5S...is that a soft case lipo? For the 03T model, I can't seem to get more than a 2S hard case in there.

So I am running a Castle 5700 on 2s in my DT-03 and it only lasts a few minutes before my spur gear turns to dust. I've never even gotten to full throttle. I've seen videos of this set-up working successfully on 3S even. I'm running the standard 17t pinion on 2.2 pro-line dirt hawgs. Is there a modification I am missing here, or is there a better gear grease I could be using to reduce friction?

Thanks for the tip. I'm going to try and thread a steel rod into the frame to stabilize the mounts and weld the plastic. I'll let you know how it goes.

Hello So my kids love that the heavy dump does jumps and flips and after taking a tumble over a mulch pile today the rear dump bed mounts broke off. Kinda sucks that they are part of the Chassis. Anyone else have this happened? I tried to JB weld the joint, but anytime the truck rolls the weld breaks. I need a more permanent solution.

Thanks for the help. I did a few changes and it seems fine now. I dropped to 17t pinion and the motor no longer overheats. I also swapped out the ESC to my Tamiya 02s and I can run a full battery with no issue. The reedy esc wasn't hot at all, but it would shut off intermittently with the 13t. I paired it up with my 17t motor in my lunchbox and it also works fine now.

I'll step down to the 17t pinion and see if that helps. For tires I'm running with dirt hawgs, and for the battery I typically use NIMH 4200mah. I'm in NYC so it's concrete all the way.

The reedy hits about 190 degrees

I upgraded the ESC, and it runs cool to the touch now. Typically the motor seems to get too hot, and the car begins to slow. My thought was that the engine casing is trapping the heat and compounds the problem. Any suggestions on a more heat resistant motor? Do brushless generate less heat than brushed motors?