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About smirk-racing

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  1. Hi all, Does anyone own both the GF-01 and the WR-02CB chassis? If so, any chance you could post a pic of the bottoms of both chassis showing the width of the arms? Could you measure the hex to hex distance? I am pretty sure the WR-02CB chassis is wider, but I'm trying to figure out exactly how much (I believe the arms and dogbones would be a direct swap from one chassis to the other). Thanks!
  2. I have long shied away from the ESC supplied with many of Tamiya's kits because all my Lipos are 3s, and not only does the TBLE-02 not officially support Lipos (wrong voltage cut-off) it also has a stated rating of only 7.2v (i.e. sufficient for 2s operation only). By accident, while moving electronics from one chassis to another, I lost track of which ESC I was using, and plugged a 3s lipo (LiHV in fact) into my TBLE-02S. I powered up and went on my way (I was expecting the speed bump, I had just forgotten the esc didn't support that voltage). Far from dying in a puff of magic smoke, the ESC did just fine, and I only discovered the problem 30 min later (after a long run). Given what happened, I tried again, and the ESC worked just fine. As far as I can tell in two test runs, the TBLE-02s seems 'ok' with 3s LiHV voltage (13.05v at max). Has anyone else run 3s on the TBLE-02 ESC? I realize that the spec sheet clearly states 2s, but given I wasn't going to use these ESCs anyway, I am willing to keep going in the name of science. Curious if anyone else already knows the answer though. Of note: the chassis is light (GF-01) and the motor is the kit motor. So the amp draw and overall load on the ESC are pretty tame. Given that, I wonder if this set-up will continue to work just like a 7.2v set-up would have worked. If the ESC components couldn't handle 12.6v (slightly more in fact) they should have fried immediately, right? By way of contrast, I have a space Traxxas mini brushless esc (VXL-3m) and if it experiences voltage even a hair over 12.6 volts it won't work. If you take the LiHV battery, run it down to 12.59v, you can pop it right back in with that ESC, and it works fine. Obviously the limitation is in software, but my point is, these ESCs seem like they can safely accept higher voltages than that their specs state, IF one is willing to accept the risk of magic smoke etc.
  3. I have trimmed the opening from the battery compartment over to the esc compartment. Takes 1 minute, anyone can do it, and then you never have to think about your connectors again. I use xt60 btw and it only takes a bit of trimming the opening to make enough room for that connector.
  4. I use shorty packs, mostly 3s with permanently attached leads. They typically run 3500 to 4000 mah and last quite long. what I like best is the ability to shift the weight of the battery forward or backward.
  5. Hi All, I have built a new GF-01 Trail and I am happy to report that the portals and the resulting gear reduction are fantastic. Perhaps not surprisingly, the chassis now clambers over obstacles far more effectively. Question: would it make sense to build the tires with foams? Obviously the kit does not include foams, but the tires are huge and rather balloon-like, so perhaps some foams would be useful. Thoughts? What are the pros and cons of adding some foams? Note for anyone building this chassis: I did remove all shock spaces (so it sits lower) and that helped a lot. The chassis is quite light, and the springs are a bit stuff, so removing the spacers helps it flex while going over obstacles.
  6. Here's an older article about turns vs KV: https://www.rccaraction.com/brushless-motors-turns-vs-kv-rating/ 3000 kv is about mid-way between a 13.5t and a 17.5t motor. 3000 kv can work on either 2s or 3s. You posted on another thread about battery compartment size. The compartment will fit most standard 2s lipo up to about 5000 mah. However, the opening between the battery compartment and the top side of the chassis (where your ESC is) is kind of small, so traxxas connectors might not fit without enlarging the hole. The new Traxxas ID connectors are very large, so those definitely will not fit. Xt60 connects are a tight fit. Luckily, making the hole larger is very easy. Back to the battery: I use a shorty 3s lipo with 4000mah capacity, and even that battery is quite large. I am looking for something more like a 3s 2000 to 2400 mah . I always have a tendency to stuff huge motors in my cars, and then to use very large batteries. This is not a great idea. A properly sized motor, and moderately sized batteries, often deliver better performance, more fun, and more run-time. The XV-01 can certainly handle a LOT (probably anything you want to throw at it) but I have found the modest electronics really do deliver the most fun. With the smaller electronics, the acceleration, turning, and runtimes are much better.
  7. I can’t speak to that particular motor but I have two XV-01s and I have tried a few different brushless motors. The motor I like best is a finned 540 brushless. It isn’t a true 540 (actually a 380) but it has just the right amount of power, it’s very light, and it gives me out of the box the performance I normally get with lots of tuning. I am running 3000kv on 3s. Works well.
  8. I can’t speak to that particular motor but I have two XV-01s and I have tried a few different brushless motors. The motor I like best is a finned 540 brushless. It isn’t a true 540 (actually a 380) but it has just the right amount of power, it’s very light, and it gives me out of the box the performance I normally get with lots of tuning. I am running 3000kv on 3s. Works well.
  9. All, I am looking for someone who would be interested in two things: 1. designing and building the ultimate heavy construction crawler 2. helping to build my nephew's dream rig I'm just traveling a bit too much in the next few weeks to get it done in time for his birthday (mid-April). It also might be a little complex for me. What he would most like is the new Tamiya Volvo A60H Hauler. I'd like people's advice on what would make this the ULTIMATE bashing / crawling machine. Some initial ideas might be: -- portals (painful to source, might need to start with a dynahead) -- wide mods (i.e. long arm) -- aluminum shocks -- ultra low-speed motor (probably 1250 kv) -- OTHER IDEAS? I get to splurge on my nephew more than I do on myself, so bring on the clever ideas. If there is someone based in the US (shipping costs tend to be brutal internationally) who would enjoy helping assemble what I think would be the ultimate heavy construction crawler, please drop me a PM. Thanks!
  10. I would never have guessed. Can you talk a little more about the difference in how the car drove with belt vs chain drive??
  11. Realism? Those mod clods look a lot like the (real-life) Monster Jam trucks. Do you mean that those monster trucks don’t look scale??
  12. In case you're interested in considering an alternative, I went with a clod-based MT (running those massive jConcepts tires) and it has been pretty incredible. If you want to stay in the Tamiya family (barely, because only the axles will be tamiya) you can think about that route. Triggerking guys also have videos about how they run their clods, and the parts are available pretty easily. Running two escs and two motors and so forth is definitely more hassle.... but you get performance to match that...
  13. The TriggerKings guys (look them up on youtube) use Clods and SMT10s extensively for some pretty intense racing. The shortcomings on the SMT10 are definitely fixable, and while I haven't built one myself, I would venture to guess the shortcomings are fixable for a rational / reasonable amount of money. This article might be helpful if you haven't seen it: https://www.bigsquidrc.com/monster-truck-madness-impressions-of-the-updated-axial-smt10/
  14. Triple MOA design - very cool. Are you running brushed or brushless motors? Are you making a custom splitter for the esc?
  15. I have two xv-01, both used. One was a bit rough, but the other had only ever been test driven and then stored on a shelf. That one had been built by a very experienced hobbyist. Both vehicles have pretty significant slop in the suspension arms, bearing holders etc. There is a fair amount of back and forth movement of the suspension arms (when there should be almost none). Is this normal for xv-01s? I intend to buy a brand new kit and build it for myself, but until then I am curious about your experiences. Thanks!
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