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  1. FWIW, the old solution of using aluminum shims for NN4 and removing excess play has been 100% reliable for me over long periods of time with strong brushless systems. I do like this new steel gear but it isn’t strictly necessary and I agree that allowing the pin to stick halfway out of the slot (which is what happens without shimming) is likely to be problematic. In short, shimming is cheap, easy and effective and probably still the right solution. The only hard part about shimming is taking the time to order the right shims (thoroughly detailed many times in TC posts including over the last few years so links to vendors should still be good). Also, I recall having to reassemble the gearbox at least 3-4 times as I tested the right number of shims. I was pretty obsessive about getting it precisely right (down to the level of a .1mm shim). That only took maybe 15-20 min per gearbox though.
  2. This is a small part but a big deal! XV-01 owners have talked about this part for years and years... probably overkill (a little care with shims / spacers can do the trick) but I think this might be popular. I'm grabbing a few.
  3. When you don't need to preserve the connector, you can remove it "destructively". Between an x-acto and a dremel, you should have no trouble, in case getting the wires is proving tricky by other means.
  4. Any idea what it costs to design a new car? Just curious. Even a wild guess?
  5. If you end up buying a set of 4, I'll buy one (or more) of them from you if you like. Based in CA. Shipping one tire won't cost much I would guess.
  6. It will look even better scuffed and loved!
  7. Thanks! This is great info. I am not racing, so no need to be competitive. I am a decent driver (I had better be after all these years) but I am space-constrained.
  8. This is awesome! So glad you are capturing this here. It is so cool to see those old clippings.
  9. Thanks! Sometimes that's the kind of nudge a person needs Thank you! I'm checking out the TC-01 now. Had seen it a long while back but had never given it much thought.
  10. Thank you for this amazing explanation! So much detail. I did a fair bit of web searching before posting, and I don't think the info you shared here was readily available before. Thank you!
  11. Hi All, Merry Christmas! What better thing to do on Christmas than shop for another RC? I've found a listing for a Tamiya F201 which is rather expensive ($500+). I've always had my eye on a Formula 1 RC but have always held off because I've read/heard that they're not very useful away from a prepared track. I do not have access to a prepared on-road track so I'd be driving on the street in front of the house or at various parking lots nearby. All the surfaces are "ok" but we don't have ribbons of fresh smooth asphalt near us. The F201 is obviously long-since discontinued so prices are very high. I'm drawn to it because it is 4wd and I imagine that would be a lot easier to drive (and more suitable to 'street bashing' style driving). The F104 is readily available near me for 60% less than the F201 (barely $200, and I have some discount codes so really we're looking at $175ish all in). However, that's obviously a 2wd so might be even harder to drive. Most of my other RCs are hard-core off-road bashers. The closest thing I have to an on-roader is a Tamiya XV-02. Can I get some of your thoughts and opinions on: -- it is just pointless to get any F1 style RC because they're really just for proper racing (or perhaps display)? I only want runners. -- Is it worth paying 2-2.5x for the 4wd F201 vs the readily-available F104? I would guess the 4wd makes a big difference (despite being not F1-accurate) but maybe both are pretty tricky to drive for my purposes - ie beyond 2wd/4wd they both have low ground clearance etc Any other thoughts on these vehicles? I don't see a lot of videos online that give me insight - most of the vids that are available are building and displaying these vehicles rather than driving them!
  12. Thanks @Tamiyastef @RichieRich what an awesome memory. Thanks for sharing. Sounds about right!
  13. Hi All, I am building an optima mid (well, 2 actually, one as a runner and one as a fully-functional shelfer) and for the shelfer, I figured I'd configure it to be just like the early Optima Mids in the 80s. Can someone help me out with a few specs? 1. what was the (rough) top speed of an Optima Mid in the 80s? Did speed vary much across different variations of this chassis? 2. what was the rough wattage of the motors used back then (I guess originally the kit came with a LeMans 240)? Thanks!
  14. Did you machine those yourself??!!
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