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About smirk-racing

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  1. Yep - that's the reason I have that motor. It has the right dimensions and provides some flexibility. Sounds like you know what you're doing, so I am sure you will get lots of enjoyment out of that motor.
  2. I think you've got it. The dimensions are 36x41mm. http://www.tenshock.com/ez2220-6-pole-brushless-motor.html Keep in mind that's a 1000 watt motor, not 100. It is extremely overpowered for the chassis. It can destroy your gearbox if you don't limit the amps to the motor (castle escs have a torque control setting for this). This setting is why I don't have endless wheelies. Also, you will need to select the right KV based on how many cells you want to run (say 3s or 2s or even 6s).
  3. Here's a good thread by a guy who really seemed passionate about his XV-01: http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/rally/400591-turtles-modified-xv-01-a-3.html He talks about adding a 2nd belt tensioner at the front of the belt, near the front gearbox. He describes what he does in the thread above (you'll have to pick through the thread and find the right post - I don't recall which one it was). He used the belt cover as the attachment point and just drive a screw through it, and mounted a couple of bearings on the screw. The tensioner he fabricated was not adjustable - it was just adding a fixed amount of additional tension. I believe belt tension might be the issue, but I've not had time to look into it.
  4. Totally amazing. Maybe you can offset the cost of printing these parts by selling some kits to the rest of us! I’d buy one. Can you share more details?? Shocks, springs, oils weights? I never got mine as dialed as yours is. What is going on up front? CRP kit or Ampro kit?
  5. Wow! What a project. Amazing that you put so much energy into it and sourced parts and fabricated the ones that could not be sourced. That is a lot of dedication. It is really gorgeous. Congrats!!
  6. What is this? I've never seen this. Looks like a 4WD. Anyone knows what this is? Is this a nitro model?
  7. Can you say more about where you used the X-ray shims? I am having trouble inside the gearbox with the nn4 parts and the pin stripping inside the main gear... thanks!
  8. Thanks for advice all! Seems like I should steer clear of this one.
  9. I've always been tempted by the looks of the Subaru Brat, but I've hesitated to get one because I'm not sure about how it drives. Can any Brat owners talk a little about how it handles, whether it can manage over small jumps, speed, strength of gearbox, etc? I am looking for a fun runner, not something that requires a huge amount of maintenance and upkeep. I mostly have modern race buggies (which I run as bashers) as well as some mini scale vehicles... so trying to decide if this would be a fun addition to the fleet. Thanks!!
  10. Looks pretty awesome. Did you get those parts recently? I thought most HPI parts had dried up... Are you aiming for a crawler or more of a monster truck for jumps and speed?
  11. This might be helpful: https://marwanrc.com/ Other than that, I also find Shumacher tires to be good options in many cases.
  12. For #2, I used tamiya diff putty in the diffs. I used two balls in the front diff, one in the middle, and none in the rear. You can see the diff putty instructions in the dynahead instruction manual. Admittedly, this is the recommendation for a model that is meant to be a "trail truck" 6x6, but I'm very happy with the performance this delivers even in the Big Yellow. For #3, I didn't use any glue at all. This is a nice "slipper" to protect the drivetrain and I have no problems at all with tires popping off. The truck is pretty light, and I don't gear it for insane speeds. I did intend this for a kid in the family, so I made it more forgiving than performance-oriented. If you wanted an easy solution short of the normal tire cement, you might try Shoe Goo or equivalent, in say 3-4 place around the tire rim on the front and rear side. Tacking the tire in place like that makes it very easy to remove, and yet still gives you quite a bit more 'lock' in terms of minimizing slip between the tire and the wheel. It's a good rig - have fun!
  13. Hi All, Based in the US, looking to try out some rally or on-road Tamiya models. If you're looking to clear out some space in your collection (to make room for something new, right?!) please drop me a PM and let's see if we can work something out. Don't need anything brand new, but looking for something in decent mechanical condition. Can be RTR, ARTR, or just a roller (as I have my own electronics). Thanks!
  14. I guess ultimately my question was less about whether a given kit was "officially" in production from Tamiya and more along the following lines: 1. can I get this kit easily, from multiple retailers or sources, at non-inflated prices (not debating or arguing with Tamiya's prices, just talking about avoiding incremental mark-up due to scarcity, for example from eBay sellers who think everything is rare and unique) 2. can i get sufficient parts support for this kit? Those are the two major questions for those of us who want easy-to-acquire, easy-to-maintain runners/bashers. I have acquired rare kits before, and painstakingly restored them, but then I find I cannot bring myself to run them (because getting them in running condition in the first place was so hard). In contrast, I have no compunction about running and bashing my 'common' kits (traxxas, or even some widely-available Tamiya kits like the lunchbox). I do agree with most of the comments, though, that this is a difficult question even under normal circumstances, and all the more so due to COVID. Maybe we just start with something simple, and have a running thread in which people post about kits they know are for sale easily - like sosidge did above.
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