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  1. Ok, did some testing and it feels like too much weight is being transferred to the front when I left off the throttle leading into a turn. Which adjustments should I make to reduce weight transfer to the front? thanks!
  2. No stupid questions... but i've done plenty of stupid things, like installing diffs backwards (makes for a rather poor driving experience In this case, the tires are indeed glued...
  3. Juls1, thanks for this great info. Much appreciated! On that particular note, I'm confused about something. It is not the case that the car spins out during a really hard turn, rather while accelerating it will tend to spin out even with a small amount of left or right input (i.e. a gentle turn). That makes me think front grip might not be the issue, because if the front tires didn't have enough grip to make such a gentle turn, they'd hardly be able to turn the car at all. Thanks for the tip on the set-up station - I will start looking at those.
  4. ThunderDragon, this is really helpful - thanks so much. I will start trying out some of these adjustments. I am surprised to hear you're using 1M weight oil up front - that's definitely pretty heavy (although the gears are tiny). Currently I've built the car to stock (I replaced the diff gears with metal a while ago).
  5. Hi All, I have finally gotten my XV-01 all sorted out mechanically (bought it used, unfortunately it came with all kinds of damage and issues). Now I am trying to tune it for "rough on-road use", which is to say, normal asphalt and pavement, but often pretty rough, broken, covered in gravel, etc. The main problem I'm having is that the car has a strong tendency to spin out. For example, if I give it a lot of throttle, it will sometimes spin out in either direction while accelerating up to speed. More often, if I try to turn hard, it will do a complete 360, and then keep going. If I let off the gas and keep it going straight, I can recover and continue, but if I stay on throttle or try to turn, it will keep spinning. How do I dial-out this tendency to spin out? So far, I've tried adjusting the spring pre-load front and rear (from lots of pre-load down to none at all) and nothing I tried made much of a difference. In addition, when it turns, it tends to "skitter" or skip. I think the rear tires are hopping sideways a bit. Not sure if that is normal or not. For reference, I am running a castle 2-pole motor with the torque dialed WAY down (almost to the point that I can't get the wheels to break loose on clean dry asphalt, which is about a 3 out of 10), and I have the punch control set to be pretty soft. All of this is to help make the car more gentle to drive. I am running traxxas touring car tires (the ones that come on the traxxas 4-tec) but I also have foams and various other tire options. Thanks in advance!
  6. Thanks for sharing! I am guessing you meant third shock? Seems a bit tight in there once you switch to the grasshopper suspension mounts. With the 4-link the need for either the brace (ampro solution) or the 3rd shock goes away entirely, so I ought to be ok on that front. Do you like having the shocks upside down? I've read about folks running them that way. I'll share some pics once I dust off the chassis.
  7. Hi all, I am itching for a new odd-ball build and I’ve settled on converting my Lunchbox to on-road use. I already have a four-link set-up in the rear, and the Ampro arms up front. I will remove the battery compartment and switch over to the grasshopper mounts for the rear suspension (this will lower the chassis by half an inch or so). I think there is an easy swap for the front arms as well to put them in the same location as they would be for a grasshopper (or, the original pajero which was based on the cw-01). Any thoughts or advice on this? What else would you change or do to make the chassis perform as well as possible on-road? Thanks!
  8. Hi all, Looking for some advice here - would the CC-02 make a decent monster truck? It has the same basic design (solid axle, frame rail) as the Axial scx10, which a lot of people converted to monster trucks, so I'm wondering if the CC-02 can be a *light* monster truck (i.e. not a true clod-sized monster with huge 2.6 wheels & tires etc, but perhaps something more like a 2.2 size.) Any thoughts? Thanks!
  9. Hi all, I am looking to convert my XV-01 from regular to long damper spec. Are the only differences as follows: Damper eyelets (longer) damper stays (taller) sway bars (to help control body roll) thanks!
  10. This is not quite the same as the FLP *super* diff but gives an idea for the components: The super diff integrates the ring gear with the cup, and then there are only two main pieces. I have the newer version and I like it better - fewer pieces and less leaking.
  11. Sure CW-01: Here are some of the existing products: https://www.shapeways.com/product/KHKZCWXSW/w01003-00-solid-axle-diff-locker-for-cw01-hornet Those give some outside dimensions that fit in the gearbox correctly. For the inside, I was thinking of trying to match the design of the diff included here: http://www.fastlanemachine.net/proddetail.php?prod=FLM20200N I have that diff and can take measurements for the inside, and then we can figure out if they'll match the exterior measurements. The FLM diff only uses two spider gears, which I thought would never work, but so far it is holding up under extreme power, way more than could ever be used in a CW-01. So I think 2 spider gears could do the trick (maybe even TRX gears since those are plentiful). The part I have not found is a bevel gear that would match up with the driveshaft. Another question is whether to try to re-use the main diff gear (by bolting two cups to it) or just specifying the outer gear (just like the FLM super diff linked above). It would be more robust if the diff assembly had fewer components and if the ring gear were integrated into one of the two cup halves. What do you think?
  12. I have fully modded out my Lunchbox and Clodbuster and they perform well (they've lost a little of their original charm, but retain enough for my liking). The one thing I can't fix easily is the lack of sealed diffs which are tunable with oil. Adding a bit of AW grease here or there isn't enough for me. The CW-01 and Clod differentials have the same basic design, although the sizes are different, so I'd like to tackle both at once. I am looking for someone who has cad skills, 3-d printing skills, and could help get some prototypes specified and designed, and then we could test them, and finally get them done in aluminum as final pieces. Anyone interested? Drop me a PM if so. I am not looking to do this commercially - either we could post the resulting designs online for free, or you could own the designs and offer the parts for sale if you liked (or even both - since designs alone are not enough for most people).
  13. My XV-01 is a blast to drive. Are there any larger vehicles, like 8th scale, that are similar to the XV-01 in terms of having such an extreme forward-weight bias? I am not aware of any Tamiya vehicles like this, but wondering if anyone knows of any such vehicle from any manufacturer?
  14. I had the adjustable motor mount for the lunchbox, and although it functions correctly, I found it extremely difficult to use. Without being able to see exactly what you are doing, you have to get the long motor screws to engage with small nuts which are free to move around inside the motor mount (it has long machined slots, which is what makes it adjustable). For me, this was very difficult and frustrating. Now that I know just about where I want my Lunchbox to be (in terms of motor and voltage), I find it MUCH easier to stick to the 10t pinion. This is the same reason I stick to the 13t pinions in the clodbuster - the stock sizing is extremely easy to use, while the adjustable motor mount is quite hard to use (in my opinion). I'll be curious to see if others had the same experience.
  15. This is a good point. I might need to step down the motor and the battery. Right now I have the torque control (which limits current) turned down to 1.4 out of 10, and that just about eliminates wheelspin. Big Jon when you say “900” in the rear diff, is that the Tamiya labeling system for weight? The 60k up front makes sense to me (I have lots of different diff oil weights from 5k to 500k). Thanks!
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