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Everything posted by smirk-racing

  1. Hi All, I am building a new XV-01 Long Damper kit which will primarily see on-road use with a little grass/dirt mixed in at the local park. I am trying to build the kit as close to stock as possible (precisely per the manual) but the two areas I'm willing to diverge are 1) front diff oil (went with 30k) and 2) shock oil. On the latter, I've not decided what shock oils to use. I would venture to guess that the one oil Tamiya included in the kit is perhaps not optimal for ALL uses (front diff, rear diff, front shocks, rear shocks). The kit-supplied oil is marked "Hard" and is clear in color (900 weight per the label). Since I have plenty of oils, I thought I'd ask the experts - what oil should one use for the shocks in the XV-01 Long Damper? I am inclined to think the heavy oil is good in the front, and maybe something lighter would make sense in the rear?
  2. This is what I finally discovered... I was chasing specs for a long time and for my off-road vehicles it mattered less because they have less traction anyway, but for on-road, it became very noticeable. It is sort of counter-intuitive (at least to me). I thought a very fast servo would give a very dialed-in feeling - as soon as my fingers moved, the car tires would also move. Obviously there is a lot more to it than just that as I much prefer driving with the servo speed turned down a good bit now.
  3. https://hobbyking.com/en_us/trackstar-ts-d99x-digital-1-10-scale-touring-drift-buggy-steering-servo-10kg-0-08sec-45g.html I've had good luck with HK, and if anything goes wrong, customer service is incredibly good.
  4. Thanks for all the tips and suggestions! Much appreciated. I grabbed a couple of servos using these suggestions as a guideline.
  5. Hi All, I noticed recently that my XV-02 was almost un-driveable with my usual (extremely fast) servos. I had to use both expo and servo speed settings in the radio to slow the servo way down, and that made the car a lot more fun to drive. What are the ideal specs people are aiming for in terms of speed and strength for the xv-01 and xv-02? I know the xv-02 also calls for a low profile servo (if you want to skip using the spacers). I think the XV-01 also fits a low profile servo easily, but then it DOES require spacers. Thanks!
  6. Hi all Have any of you had a chance to personally drive and compare the XV-01 vs the XV-02? I have seen a few YouTube vids and to be honest I could see very little difference between the two cars. I am hoping to get opinions from people who own both vehicles and have driven both enough to have gotten a feel for the differences between the two. Ideally, you have driven them under somewhat similar circumstances. Thanks!
  7. Hi All, I've been experimenting with various on-road chassis (after many many years of only driving buggies and monster trucks). I currently have both the XV-01 and XV-02, and I think they're both excellent. On the other hand, I've tried a few different M-series (M-05 in particular) and I've not been too thrilled. I am not looking for flat out speed (could just buy a race kit) but rather a blend of great looks, fun handling, and decent speed. So with all that as background, what is it like to drive the FF series? I see some FF-03s on eBay which are pricey but if the feedback here is good, maybe I'll give that chassis a try. It looks a lot like an XV-01 without the rear gearbox... I don't intend to drive on a track, so this would just be for street and parking lot bashing. Thanks!
  8. When I think of mild brushless I think of "finned 540" motors which I believe are 380-sized rotors in a 540 can. https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Surpass-4370KV-Brushless-Waterproof/dp/B07RMJDCYS/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2CSDBMV5QF6E8&keywords=brushless+finned+540+motor&qid=1663351773&sprefix=brushless+finned+540+motor%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-4 I like these a lot - you get the benefit of relatively high RPMs (if you want them) without the massive current draw or power of a true 540. Most Castle motors (even the 1406, which i think is the smallest 540 sized) are way to powerful for my taste and I end up tuning them so far down that I may as well use a smaller motor entirely.
  9. McMaster Carr also has spacers: https://www.mcmaster.com/aluminum-spacers/aluminum-unthreaded-spacers/system-of-measurement~metric/ And there are cheaper ones (also easier to order!) here for folks in the US: https://www.gobilda.com/1502-series-4mm-id-spacer-6mm-od-2mm-length-4-pack/
  10. No. The stock part measures 6x4x2mm (OD, ID, thickness).
  11. Received the TB-05 steering arms. They are "similar" to the XV-02 but require a good bit of fiddling to install. The two things you'll need to do, if you end up needing this fix, are: 1) shim the steering bridge downwards (the TB steering arms aren't as tall as the XV-02, so the steering bridge ends up being too high). However, the space to go downwards is pretty limited, because immediately below is the center drive shaft. I ended up using a set of M4 nuts which are about 4mm in height. This has the steering links almost perfectly level. 2) cut the stock steering link (from the servo the right steering arm) or get a new one. The TB arms have the ballstud for the steering link a good 10mm closer to the servo location. If you try to use the stock link, the servo throw will be totally off (you'll have far more throw to one side vs the other). Even in stock form, I dislike the servo angle, but it gets much worse with the TB parts. The actual tasks above are very easy but took a while due to the 'fiddling' (ie experimenting to find what does and does not work). Some people used the TB parts and then built an extension out at the wheels, on the axle carriers, but there's already a shim there and I didn't want to have such a tall shim exerting force on that part. I'm pretty content with the solution I created because the steering bridge is very strong and you have two points of attachment through which the force is being exerted. In my opinion, that's definitely the place to do the shimming. In essence, the shim just makes the TB part similar to the original stock part.
  12. Thanks for the tip. I did check out the FB group, and I did find the info I needed (with excellent photos). Seems the TB parts can be made to work with 8mm spacers but that's better than being totally out of action.... Thanks!
  13. @Nicadraus Thanks!! Much appreciated. @Smirrors That is great - thanks so much for the link. I've ordered that part.
  14. Hi All, After many weeks of patiently assembling everything I needed, I finally got my XV-02 up and running, and it was a blast (for about 5 min). Then, I clipped a rubber ramp someone had put in their driveway with just enough force to snap part T5 (where the steering rod from the servo attaches to the steering assembly). I am unable to locate this part (shown below). It snapped right where the MA9 ball connector attaches (rather delicate now that I look at it - just a few small bits of plastic for a rather important attachment point). Anyway, it has snapped and I will not be able to drive any more until I get a new one. Any tips for where I can get this part? I don't think anyone is making these in aluminum, which would be awesome, but I'll settle for another plastic one for now. I've searched high and low for "T Parts for XV-02" and so far no luck. Thanks in advance for your help! Edit: finally found these on tamiya's website using the 7-digit code: 9225232 However, they are out of stock, and I don't see them anywhere else. So unless someone has a spare set for some reason AND is willing to sell them to me, looks like I'm out of action until these parts are back in stock;
  15. Thanks @Juls1. I am using the 19t pinion, so if I take out the difference in pinions, you're at the ~4000kv mark compared to me, and if you're adding timing, then you might be getting close to 5000kv. I think I'll dial down the top speed and also dial down the torque. Between the two the vehicle should become easier to control. Thanks!
  16. Hi All, What motors are you using in your XV-02s? I have a castle 1406 5700kv in mine. Top speed is great but I'm find the set-up to be too powerful (using the recommended 2s lipo). I'll dial this back in the ESC but wanted to know what you all were using. I'm also finding the chassis a bit twitchy - if it gets unsettled or if I turn to correct if often whips around. Any thoughts on tuning this out?
  17. Hi All, I think the Alpine Jagermeister version of the M-06 chassis is really sharp. However, I want to see if it can accept a mild brushless system, and get some real power down to the ground. I found with M-05 that even a slightly hotter brushed motor resulted in way too much power, and as a result, I'm not enjoying that chassis as much. It is very pretty to look at, but the overall speed is just too low. I do see a few youtube vids with M-06s going pretty quickly, but thought I'd check with the experts. Can this chassis get power down to the ground in a useful way? Thanks!
  18. Any tips on how to line up the body over the mounts to get the hole locations? I have a new body sitting over a completed chassis but getting the hole locations just perfect has been quite tricky. So far I am still fiddling with bits of tape and other hacks to try to get the alignment perfect. The body posts are quite tall so at this stage the body is floating several inches above the chassis which makes the task of aligning things even harder (at least for me).
  19. @toyolien Thank you! Beautiful pics by the way! I turns out there is a right way and a wrong way to install T2. I had gotten it upside down, which meant it could just slide right off the the pair of T6 parts. After fighting through my overzealous application of threadlock in the steering posts, I was able to get everything disassembled and fixed.
  20. Hi all, I've finished assembling my XV-02, but there's one part (steering rack) that I must have gotten wrong. I figured that what issue I had would somehow get resolved in a later step of the build, but now that I'm done, the issue is still there. I'm hoping some of you experts can help me out. Here's the step that I'm have trouble with: Once completed, this assembly will be installed upside down (relative to this diagram). So, the MA12 bearings are the only thing that hold the steering rack (T2) onto the two arms (T6). However, the way mine has come out, the T2 part can just slide down. The bearings do NOT hold it up. Now, realistically, the entire thing hangs together, and right as assembled in my car, it is "working". There's not really a lot of force pushing T2 downwards, so it hangs in there (there is some amount of friction in the vertical direction). However, if I apply pressure, it will indeed come down and slide off T6. Clearly, that can't be the way Tamiya designed it, so I must have done something wrong... however, these parts don't really go together backwards/upside down. I have little choice but to take it apart and perhaps start over (for this assembly) but I figured I'd ask in case one of you ran into any difficulties on with this part. Thanks!
  21. Wow this is an awesome list. Very helpful!! Def some parts I am going to order. Thank you for sharing!!
  22. @Juls1 Thanks! What sway bars are you using? I haven't seen any so far... but that seems like an important option.
  23. Hi All, My XV-02 is now in my hands, but I'm holding off for a minute to get some hop-ups. Which of these hop-ups would you select, and why? https://www.tamiyausa.com/blog/hop-option-parts-xv-02-rally-car/ My usage will be mostly on the street, with a little driving on grass and dirt. I won't be using the vehicle as a true rally vehicle (no space near me). From the list above, I'm leaning towards the following: front spool: for improved cornering on asphalt surfaces center gear diff: so I can find a good compromise between on and off-road performance (vs say the stock spur) and so I don't need a slipper What else would you select?
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