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Everything posted by smirk-racing

  1. Here's an older article about turns vs KV: https://www.rccaraction.com/brushless-motors-turns-vs-kv-rating/ 3000 kv is about mid-way between a 13.5t and a 17.5t motor. 3000 kv can work on either 2s or 3s. You posted on another thread about battery compartment size. The compartment will fit most standard 2s lipo up to about 5000 mah. However, the opening between the battery compartment and the top side of the chassis (where your ESC is) is kind of small, so traxxas connectors might not fit without enlarging the hole. The new Traxxas ID connectors are very large, so those definitely will not fit. Xt60 connects are a tight fit. Luckily, making the hole larger is very easy. Back to the battery: I use a shorty 3s lipo with 4000mah capacity, and even that battery is quite large. I am looking for something more like a 3s 2000 to 2400 mah . I always have a tendency to stuff huge motors in my cars, and then to use very large batteries. This is not a great idea. A properly sized motor, and moderately sized batteries, often deliver better performance, more fun, and more run-time. The XV-01 can certainly handle a LOT (probably anything you want to throw at it) but I have found the modest electronics really do deliver the most fun. With the smaller electronics, the acceleration, turning, and runtimes are much better.
  2. I can’t speak to that particular motor but I have two XV-01s and I have tried a few different brushless motors. The motor I like best is a finned 540 brushless. It isn’t a true 540 (actually a 380) but it has just the right amount of power, it’s very light, and it gives me out of the box the performance I normally get with lots of tuning. I am running 3000kv on 3s. Works well.
  3. I can’t speak to that particular motor but I have two XV-01s and I have tried a few different brushless motors. The motor I like best is a finned 540 brushless. It isn’t a true 540 (actually a 380) but it has just the right amount of power, it’s very light, and it gives me out of the box the performance I normally get with lots of tuning. I am running 3000kv on 3s. Works well.
  4. All, I am looking for someone who would be interested in two things: 1. designing and building the ultimate heavy construction crawler 2. helping to build my nephew's dream rig I'm just traveling a bit too much in the next few weeks to get it done in time for his birthday (mid-April). It also might be a little complex for me. What he would most like is the new Tamiya Volvo A60H Hauler. I'd like people's advice on what would make this the ULTIMATE bashing / crawling machine. Some initial ideas might be: -- portals (painful to source, might need to start with a dynahead) -- wide mods (i.e. long arm) -- aluminum shocks -- ultra low-speed motor (probably 1250 kv) -- OTHER IDEAS? I get to splurge on my nephew more than I do on myself, so bring on the clever ideas. If there is someone based in the US (shipping costs tend to be brutal internationally) who would enjoy helping assemble what I think would be the ultimate heavy construction crawler, please drop me a PM. Thanks!
  5. I would never have guessed. Can you talk a little more about the difference in how the car drove with belt vs chain drive??
  6. Realism? Those mod clods look a lot like the (real-life) Monster Jam trucks. Do you mean that those monster trucks don’t look scale??
  7. In case you're interested in considering an alternative, I went with a clod-based MT (running those massive jConcepts tires) and it has been pretty incredible. If you want to stay in the Tamiya family (barely, because only the axles will be tamiya) you can think about that route. Triggerking guys also have videos about how they run their clods, and the parts are available pretty easily. Running two escs and two motors and so forth is definitely more hassle.... but you get performance to match that...
  8. The TriggerKings guys (look them up on youtube) use Clods and SMT10s extensively for some pretty intense racing. The shortcomings on the SMT10 are definitely fixable, and while I haven't built one myself, I would venture to guess the shortcomings are fixable for a rational / reasonable amount of money. This article might be helpful if you haven't seen it: https://www.bigsquidrc.com/monster-truck-madness-impressions-of-the-updated-axial-smt10/
  9. Triple MOA design - very cool. Are you running brushed or brushless motors? Are you making a custom splitter for the esc?
  10. I have two xv-01, both used. One was a bit rough, but the other had only ever been test driven and then stored on a shelf. That one had been built by a very experienced hobbyist. Both vehicles have pretty significant slop in the suspension arms, bearing holders etc. There is a fair amount of back and forth movement of the suspension arms (when there should be almost none). Is this normal for xv-01s? I intend to buy a brand new kit and build it for myself, but until then I am curious about your experiences. Thanks!
  11. What is your favorite rally design? Curious to read about it. Please post pics if you can.
  12. XV-01 may or may not be better, depending on what a person wants, but it sure is different. The front-mounted motor is somewhat unusual. While it is challenging to tune (at least for me) it is novel and fun compared to more common chassis layouts.
  13. Really does seem like buying a Trail kit and stealing the portals, and then selling off the kit, might be more cost-effective. Certainly seems more convenient!
  14. Thanks a lot isomer!! Much appreciated. They aren’t making it easy to buy those portals....
  15. Hey all, I want to convert my gf-01 to a trail version, and so I am looking for the portals from the Trail edition. I have looked at the manual and done searches for the portal housing (“gear reduction units”) and for the individual gears themselves. So far I have not had any luck. Anyone have any links (US retailers ideal) or know of any sellers for those parts? Seems like a very easy conversion if only I could get the parts. thanks!
  16. Ok, did some testing and it feels like too much weight is being transferred to the front when I lift off the throttle leading into a turn. Which adjustments should I make to reduce weight transfer to the front? thanks!
  17. No stupid questions... but i've done plenty of stupid things, like installing diffs backwards (makes for a rather poor driving experience In this case, the tires are indeed glued...
  18. Juls1, thanks for this great info. Much appreciated! On that particular note, I'm confused about something. It is not the case that the car spins out during a really hard turn, rather while accelerating it will tend to spin out even with a small amount of left or right input (i.e. a gentle turn). That makes me think front grip might not be the issue, because if the front tires didn't have enough grip to make such a gentle turn, they'd hardly be able to turn the car at all. Thanks for the tip on the set-up station - I will start looking at those.
  19. ThunderDragon, this is really helpful - thanks so much. I will start trying out some of these adjustments. I am surprised to hear you're using 1M weight oil up front - that's definitely pretty heavy (although the gears are tiny). Currently I've built the car to stock (I replaced the diff gears with metal a while ago).
  20. Hi All, I have finally gotten my XV-01 all sorted out mechanically (bought it used, unfortunately it came with all kinds of damage and issues). Now I am trying to tune it for "rough on-road use", which is to say, normal asphalt and pavement, but often pretty rough, broken, covered in gravel, etc. The main problem I'm having is that the car has a strong tendency to spin out. For example, if I give it a lot of throttle, it will sometimes spin out in either direction while accelerating up to speed. More often, if I try to turn hard, it will do a complete 360, and then keep going. If I let off the gas and keep it going straight, I can recover and continue, but if I stay on throttle or try to turn, it will keep spinning. How do I dial-out this tendency to spin out? So far, I've tried adjusting the spring pre-load front and rear (from lots of pre-load down to none at all) and nothing I tried made much of a difference. In addition, when it turns, it tends to "skitter" or skip. I think the rear tires are hopping sideways a bit. Not sure if that is normal or not. For reference, I am running a castle 2-pole motor with the torque dialed WAY down (almost to the point that I can't get the wheels to break loose on clean dry asphalt, which is about a 3 out of 10), and I have the punch control set to be pretty soft. All of this is to help make the car more gentle to drive. I am running traxxas touring car tires (the ones that come on the traxxas 4-tec) but I also have foams and various other tire options. Thanks in advance!
  21. Thanks for sharing! I am guessing you meant third shock? Seems a bit tight in there once you switch to the grasshopper suspension mounts. With the 4-link the need for either the brace (ampro solution) or the 3rd shock goes away entirely, so I ought to be ok on that front. Do you like having the shocks upside down? I've read about folks running them that way. I'll share some pics once I dust off the chassis.
  22. Hi all, I am itching for a new odd-ball build and I’ve settled on converting my Lunchbox to on-road use. I already have a four-link set-up in the rear, and the Ampro arms up front. I will remove the battery compartment and switch over to the grasshopper mounts for the rear suspension (this will lower the chassis by half an inch or so). I think there is an easy swap for the front arms as well to put them in the same location as they would be for a grasshopper (or, the original pajero which was based on the cw-01). Any thoughts or advice on this? What else would you change or do to make the chassis perform as well as possible on-road? Thanks!
  23. Hi all, Looking for some advice here - would the CC-02 make a decent monster truck? It has the same basic design (solid axle, frame rail) as the Axial scx10, which a lot of people converted to monster trucks, so I'm wondering if the CC-02 can be a *light* monster truck (i.e. not a true clod-sized monster with huge 2.6 wheels & tires etc, but perhaps something more like a 2.2 size.) Any thoughts? Thanks!
  24. Hi all, I am looking to convert my XV-01 from regular to long damper spec. Are the only differences as follows: Damper eyelets (longer) damper stays (taller) sway bars (to help control body roll) thanks!
  25. This is not quite the same as the FLP *super* diff but gives an idea for the components: The super diff integrates the ring gear with the cup, and then there are only two main pieces. I have the newer version and I like it better - fewer pieces and less leaking.
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