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Posts posted by Catchy

  1. 16 hours ago, Macinnis said:

    I let the neighbor boy run the TT02B today and stressed to him to be careful and slow down if he was near anything he might hit.  He was doing ok until  I turned my back for 30 seconds and SMACK, he ran into a road sign.  Snapped the front FRP shock tower in half.  Another is on order but to keep it running, I put the stock plastic one on.  While I had it apart, I opened up to see how the front diff looked after quite a bit of running.  The 500K diff oil was still packed and had not leaked a drop.  It was clean as new.

    TT Front Diff.JPG

    Clean in there fella! 500k is quite happy to stay inside the diff then... How many batteries use do you think have gone throu it since you last maintained the diff? Is that 1 run or multiple runs? I'd probably run 5-10 batteries between maintenance. Brave chappy handing the controller over! Only person who touches my controller is my 9y.o. boy... Only at our local closed coach parking lot(huge and empty) and he's quite tasty with his 1:16 and needs to advance onto something a lil more powerful.


    Just realized reading through this again and looking at the bag, as TurnipJF stated, I need the plastic df02/tt01 diff casing before i can even start the metal ring mod! Duh... Back to waiting for Mr Postie....<_<


  2. 44 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

    No probs! I researched this mod at some length before deciding that I'd get a Mad Bull instead.


    To use the DF-02 metal ring gear, you need the DF-02/TT-01 plastic diff housings too, as the screw holes and alignment tabs on the DF-02 and TT-02B diff housings are in different places.

    Ah.. That answers that one then also! TT01 diff lock needed then!

    44 minutes ago, Effigy3 said:

    You can try this stuff:


    I know 30K isn't as thick as some diff oils go, but it's pretty thick and shouldn't leak out of the diff.  I plan on using it in my daughters TT-02 Subaru rally rig

    Ta for the shout.. Do you fill the diff right up with the oil? Spiders full on swimming like?

  3. 25 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

    The DF-01 diff is quite different in design and doesn't fit the TT-02B at all.


    The DF-02 diff is outwardly virtually identical to the TT-02B diff apart from having a metal ring gear and is a drop-in fit, however if you want to use the metal DF-02 diff pinion with it, you need to file a bit off the shank portion of the diff pinion otherwise it will bind since the TT-02B diff pinion has a shorter shank.


    The DF-02 diff does indeed use 3 internal spider gears. It is internally identical to the TT-01 diff, so a TT-01 diff lock will fit, but not a TT-02 diff lock which is designed for a 4-spider diff.

    Apologies, I knew from memory it was a df variant but guessed whilst typing the 01.

    I hope I've ordered the right one now and didn't make the same mistake whilst on fleabay! Hahaha... It looks right in the bag thou..

    Cheers for clearing the spider query up, I might try the plastic casing on the metal ring gear, if it'll fit or worst case order aTT01 diff lock, no drama really is it!

    Ta for the advice!


  4. 10 minutes ago, Macinnis said:

    Mine is not so much locked as just really heavy diff oil 500,000 wt. 

    Yeah I think I'll go down this route also, but need to research the different weights and also how to seal the diff so it's not constantly emptying into the gearbox..

    7 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

    It seems counterintuitive, but a lot of racers do so, either by fitting a spool, or by running ludicrously heavy diff oil. As I understand it, by locking out or significantly reducing the front differential action, the car's behaviour in cornering is made far more predictable, as the inner wheel doesn't lose traction and spin or "diff out" when the car's weight is transferred to the outer wheel in a corner.

    Yeap, for exactly this reason!

    Enduring a hangover currently, just debating whether to start the metal gears changeover... Need to find out if the diff lock will fit into the df01 casing also? Isn't there three diff gears inside the df01 compared to four in ours?

  5. 10 hours ago, Macinnis said:

    Welcome to the forums!  I just finished a Neo Scorcher TT02B build with full Tamiya hop-ups.  I am still waiting to upgrade the motor on mine until I understand gearing a bit better.  The plastic bevel gears that cover the stock diffs flex under stress and pop so the metal gears should fix that.  Just remember to file down the gears that go on the propeller shaft so they fit correctly, otherwise the gears are a drop in fit.   One thing I did pick out about your setup was that you locked the rear differential.  I was under the impression that you lock the front diff to prevent under steer, and you lock the rear to create a sliding (drifting) setup.

    Hi Maci,

    Thanks yes, I've been searching this site before signing up and seen the bevel pinion mods needed. Thanks to the community for passing on this solution and method! 

    Agreed with the diff lock also, I've not found a suitable off-road location to race yet and with the high grip on tarmac, found the TT02B a lil un-inspiring to drive compared to my drift setup TL01. At low speed with the diff lock, it likes to step out sidewards is a lil unstable, but is a lot more solid at higher speeds.. Really brought it to life! I don't think it would be drivable on a loose surface thou..

  6. Hi all, 

    Introduction thread for myself.. Started my Tamiya addiction 20yrs ago with a TA01 traded from a school friend, soon upgraded to a TL01 and immediately started the hop up journey.. Dragged it out of the attic acouple of years ago and started tinkering again. 

    Decided for my birthday last year to get something more modern with spares still floating around for and decided on a TT02B MS, not the most advanced or capable buggy I know,  but the hobby to me is constant evolution and tinkering rather than buying RTR.

    So after a year of annoying niggly little problems I think I finally have nailed it and have a reliable buggy to start modding intently! 

    Current spec is:

    • MS basics (Ball Raced, GRP Uprights, Full Turnbuckle Set, Ally Prop & Cups, Steel Driveshafts, GRP Batt Holder, 0.5 Toe-in Rear uprights) - Think thats all..
    • Absima CR3P 2.4Ghz System
    • Leopard Brushless 13T System
    • Tamiya Alloy motor mount
    • Lipo 2s 5200mah
    • Tamiya High speed gear set
    • Tamiya 64T Spur
    • Tamiya 22T Pinion
    • Tamiya Diff lock block in rear G/B
    • White Wheels and road tyres

    I've just taken delivery of the metal diff parts bag from df01, i have been getting a cracking noise from the gearboxes under heavy braking, gonna change rear first to see if that resolves it and to try and narrow down which gearbox is stressing currently..

    Previous problems I've resolved are screws backing out of suspension mounts. . Glued...

    Motor stuttering,  new motor bought, still stuttering, massive blue splash seen at the connectors, replaced with 5mm gold bananas.. Sorted!

    Forgetting to charge Lipo after use, on number 5 now, not ruining another one now! Lesson finally learn!

    So hi to all, I'll catch you around the site! 




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