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About NeonScorcher

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  1. @JimBear I do sometimes use a tap like yours. As has been said the thread can feel a bit loose if you go all the way through the hole. What helps is to stop tapping a little early. As these taps are tapered, the screw will have good guidance at the start of the thread and will grip more when fully screwed in. If that makes any sense. It has been a good rule for me that if the required screw goes in nicely, I won't do any separate tapping. Most often I've bee tapping harder materials like some PC chassis, e.g. on the MF01-X.
  2. @DTSCB it’s a DT-03T with a bug body.
  3. @Wooders28 yes, no protectors required. They have a very durable hockey lawn, not regular carpet. https://indoor-racing-senden.de/
  4. That's what Tamiya should have done in the first place! Well done!
  5. This is the body. https://racersparadise.de/KAeFER-RC-KAROSSERIE-110-185mm-FUeR-TAMIYA-TT-01-TT-02-ETC-10650 Ironically I've only used it for offroad cars, quite heavily 'edited'.
  6. @JimBear Always the same body, on the Rock Socker as well as the TT02B. Somehow you can't go wrong with a bug.
  7. Here's the DT03T bug. The body is from racersparadise Germany, also cut to match.
  8. Thanks @JimBear. I'm kind of a Bug aficionado. I have one on a TT02B, on a DT03T and on a CR01. This Carten body started out on a M-08 chassis which I wanted in 210 WB, where it worked ok. I just didn't like how they formed the front on it. Looks much better as a baja bug cutoff version IMO. Although the M-06 can be built with 210 WB I'm not sure the long rear end would fit under the Carten Body. It is quite short.
  9. Originally I wanted a smaller 4wd buggy. As a fan of Tamiya part interchangeability and after reading through many threads about modifying a MF01-X chassis, I went for it. Parts used: MF-01X in 225mm wheelbase Carten Beetle body 210 WB (the Tamiya one could maybe work with 239 WB, but usually buggy bodies need to be somewhat smaller than the chassis) Schumacher SST minipin tires on touring car wheels (a tad small at 70mm, found some tires with 75mm for WLToys on ebay, should look a litle more scale once they arrive) Tamiya 54670 WR-02 aluminium dampers Tamiya 9803236 GF-01 dogbones front Tamiya 51216 TA-02 dogbones rear Tamiya 10115859 WR-02CB front and rear lower arms Yeah Racing 022BU rear upper arm mounts (this solved a lot of issues in that area) A diy damper stay mount (no aftermarket part for that afaik) A few rods and ballcups from the parts bin Turned out looking almost as I imagined, although I had hoped for less weight and more suspension travel - but that's Tamiya for you 😁. Will be more of a rallye car than a desert buggy then, still lots of fun on loose surfaces I bet. First run soon, hopefully. Let me know what you think.
  10. If you just want to have fun and don't spend a fortune, even a DT-03 will do. I have two set up for indoor carpet. Proper tires and fast servo are a must though for good steering. The carbon shock towers are not necessary, only if you break the plastic ones you should think about upgrading them. Slim outdrives, dogbones and wheel axles help with suspension, but also that can wait. I started with a 13.5t motor in the Neo Fighter and currently run a 10.5t which is just a bit too fast (for me anyway). The gears hold up nicely. Lots of fun and cheap parts when you break something.
  11. Started out yesterday with a regular black DX4s opening the case to repair the D/R wheel, where the axle had snapped. Ended up with this today.
  12. The CR-01 has the most parts I ever had in any Tamiya kit. That one was a very interesting and long build for me.
  13. You could go with a beetle. I used the body from Racer's Paradise and trimmed it to fit.
  14. Hi djmcnz, I can recommend the Hobbywing Xerun Justock XR10. It doesn't go down to 4.5T (which would be quite unusual for a crawler anyway), but to 8.5T on 2S (rated 60A on up to 3s). It's for sensored motors, but you can also use sensorless motors with it. For crawling it offers a special profile you can load with the LCD programming box, where both directions work symmetrical. You then can break going forward and backward (or even auto-break). I haven't seen that in any other ESC yet. Probably other Hobbyking Xerun ESCs with higher rating also can use this profile. I have it in a Axial AX-10 with a 21.5T motor, operates very smooth, doesn't need the fan. I also run it in several other cars with different brands of motors, e.g. with a 13.5T Turnigy motor in an M-Chassis (also without the fan) and with a 10.5T Turnigy motor in a TT-02B (this one needs the fan due to limited airflow). I don't think it is water proof, though. And I haven't tried a LRP motor with one, still I don't think they wouldn't match. I find the Hobbywing ESCs very reliable, have been using those since when they were only available directly from China and still have three of those first ones, still working great. You can tell I'm a fan . Cheers.
  15. @Fabia130vRS: I had a 10.5T in it, which was almost too much, 13.5 should work well. The gearing is quite limited. Like you mention space is tight which made me think of a slightly wider chassis. I was also thinking of using a 1/12th servo, there is not much weight to move at the front. Let us know how your 1/16th servo holds up once you drive it. A really interesting project - I will have to give it another try.
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