TheMidnight Pumpkin

I made a couple of these for myself a few years ago. If you like them, feel free to use the design.

I wanted to reply to this topic because I fix medical equipment. I'm in covid patient rooms almost daily. I'm not scared of it. You should not be either. Life go's on. Wash your hands a lot. Social distance for the good of others, but live your lives. I recently bought a stack of new RC's to keep me sane, or maybe I've gone insane... either way build more RC sheot! :-)

Spent more money! - diff putty, 2 bearing sets, 2 metal gear servos, 2 pistol grip radios, and a Wild Willy 2, all ordered/paid for. edit - I forgot I also got a shelf queen gen 1 Traxxas Rustler with the "arc welder" speed control

Thanks for the advise, I think I'll give the putty a try. Its definitely the most interesting option.

Oh God... I've done it AGAIN! I'm on my third Tamiya purchased in the last week and a half! AND to top it off, www.tamiyausa.com has Bruisers on sale for $499!!! QUICK.... HIDE MY WALLET!!!!!!

Howdy, What is the best way to lock the diffs on a GF01? I read about glue, putty, etc. I was thinking hot melt glue. Ideas? I was thinking hot melt glue would allow me to unlock the diff if I needed to later on.

that's what I'm doing, a WW2 body on a GF01, and the FJ on the WR02, cause I WANT a 4x4 WW2!!! :-) the GF01 will be here this week...

I got it fixed. But the problem wasn't the mode. It turned out to be the travel calibration. And I found out there's more than one version of this transmitter. So you have to know which one you have in order to find the right manual to do the calibration. Thanks everyone!

darn... it is the proxy server, oh well at least I know why

Howdy, On some forum posts I can't see the pictures. I was wondering why? For example the post called "The Blackhopper" all I see is the JPG file names, not the actual pictures. I am on a proxy server which could be the reason. But I'm not sure... Ideas??? Home / Tamiyaclub.com Forums / Re-Release Discussions / The Blackhopper

If I bought a Bruiser it would be psychosis as that would be a third truck purchase this week!

Sigmund Freud says, Its not psychosis as long as your RC purchases are all in the Tamiya family...

I have not started building my Monster Beetle Black yet, and I ordered a tamiya GF01 land cruiser in red today... I couldn't help myself its a sickness...

I tried the high gear and its the same, its on/off no matter where the throttle is positioned. So there's something wrong in the ESC, most likely not setup correctly. It doesn't sound like anyone else has had this problem which is both good and bad. If I can't fix it I'll just go brushless... Thx everyone!

I only collect Wheelies and all mine are ready to run, just add battery's. I drive them randomly as time allows. I do have a couple shelf queens. But they are so old I'd never try to drive them...

I wanted to bump the oldest post in the not RC related topic! I drive a Chevy Pickup

www.tamiyausa.com has them for $169 right now

Thanks for the reply @JennyMo. I'm a fan of your builds. I'll try driving it in high gear before messing with the ESC. I want to know if it has proportional throttle in high gear or if its only on/off like the low gear is. I'm not sure what that will tell me. But its more than I know right now. :-) This is my first crawler as I only collect Tamiya "Wheelies".

Howdy, so a while back I purchased a TRX4 Blazer as I like the body. But I drove it for the first time over the weekend and its weird. Any of my Tamiya RC's have proportional speed control and will coast if you let off the throttle. My Blazer in low gear is basically on/off when throttle is applied. The speed does not change no matter where you put the throttle and when you let off it simply locks the wheels and skids to a stop, there's zero coast. I've watched dozens of crawling video's online of people slowly creeping up steep inclines with their TRX4's, yet this truck which was "preassembled ready to drive" is clearly not capable of doing that. Obviously I'm going to try setting up the ESC as it doesn't act like its done correctly. Has anyone else seen this before, or have experience with the XL5 TRX4?

You can see the built in advance in the pictures from this website. https://fiveeight0sixsix.wordpress.com/2017/04/25/inside-the-tamiya-sport-tuned-motor/ But in looking at the pictures for a while I am convinced one could easily change the timing since the motors end cap is only crimped on. I bet if you had 2 or 3 to mess with you would trash 1 or 2 in order to figure out the best way to "recrimp" the end cap back on at a different advance. Which I believe its completely do-able. Unfortunately I don't own any or I would take on this challenge. My silver cans have a different style tab holding the end caps on than the sport tuned.

x2 that is normal I do something different on mine to remove a bit of the angle. I like to put a servo grommet on top of the shock shaft so that its located against the hex head on the shock shaft. It serves to act as a bump stop for the shock shaft during rebound. It will be pressed between the shock shaft head, and the frame when the shock is not compressed. It makes the steering, handling, and CG a bit better.

....and so another addiction begins!

I got my Monster Beetle Black in today. Also the radio and servo came in a different box. I got my bearings a couple days ago. Whoop whoop! Yin Yang! Yippy!

got my bearings! in the mail today... Whoop Whoop!