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About nowinaminute

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  • Birthday 12/04/1982

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  • Location
    Bridgend (formerly Southampton)
  • Interests
    Photography, RC, Space exploration, Trains, Aircraft, Ships, Urbex, Industrial architecture/history/ruins, Music etc

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  1. Yeah I burnt my stock motor out pretty quick. All was well at first just pottering around in the slow gear off road and going up and down the street in the fast gear etc but before long, I got a taste for the high gear on grass and going up and down bumps and lumps and hills etc and the motor died very quickly. It got so hot the solder securing the windings to the comm melted and splattered everywhere. I re-soldered it but the same thing happened and this time the ceramic coating on the windings went black too so that was game over for that motor. This was only using a 7.2v pack made from 6 eneloop AA batteries too, not even lipo! This was back in 2016 when I had just got back into RC since owning toy grades as a kid so I was still a bit naive and let someone convince me a more power motor would run cooler so I got a Dynamite Tazer 280 motor to put it. Top speed with this was great but within the first 5 minutes, I noticed the motor got noisy and top speed seemed to be intermittent. Turned out the plastic end bell on the motor had already melted and the brass bushing was just moving around of it's in free will among the melted plastic! Lesson learned: Faster motors of the same class run hotter not cooler! I think the issue here is that the truck is quite heavy for it's scale and the 4x4 drivetrain adds additional drag so there's simply a limit to fast you can go with such a small brushed motor before you hit a thermal ceiling. The standard motor is simply too fast/powerful (for it's size) to run on 2s lipo or 7.2v nimh in this particular scenario. If you show it a hobby ESC and a lipo, it gives it enough rope to hang itself vs the 6v maximum it saw stock and with wimpy electronics limited to only a couple of amps. The only easy solution if you want to stay brushed is to try a slightly slower motor which will draw less amps and get less hot but also not spin as fast either but it's a matter of compromise. It can be quite tricky to nail down useful motor specs because they vary by manufacturer and some sellers give different specs for the same item etc. All I can really do is point you in the direction of something I tried and didn't have a problem with but I only tested it short term: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-3V-12V-6V-11200RPM-RF-280-2865-Micro-Carbon-Brush-DC-Motor-For-RC-Toy-Car-DIY/121983455790 Now that motor is a 2865 which means it should be 65 turn which in theory is the same as the stock motor but in practice mine was noticeably slower and seemed to run cooler too. If that doesn't do it, you can get 85 turn motors like this one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254854265896?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=710-53481-19255-0&campid=5338624526&toolid=10001&customid=1a91a9560a05a746b78a0aaec44ac039 And maybe try a 120 turn one too? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC3V-6V-12V-16000RPM-Mini-Carbon-Brush-RF280-20120-Motor-Strong-Magnetic-for-Toy/264912169194?hash=item3dadfee8ea:g:6n4AAOSwMhVgWCqZ Those motors are all cheap so might I suggest trying one of each and see which one gives the best compromise between performance and not melting? Speed is overrated in these things anyway. Although it's cool going around quite quickly in the fast gear, there are zero bearings in this thing so parts tend to wear out exponentially faster with every small increase in speed. Another possible avenue is a 370 motor. Those are essentially the same size as a 280 with the same size shaft but they tend to be slightly more robust and heat tolerant (end can is usually metal) only problem is the holes on the front are spaced differently so you'd have to address that somehow. Anyway, that's about all the advice I can give as I moved over to a brushless on mine.
  2. Used ones would be fine for me. I can wait, it's been waiting for a year or so already lol. Thanks!
  3. Same here. Have several of them and all good. Often sold under different brands for anywhere up to 4x the price or even more. Recently had an argument with someone on facebook about it till I pointed out his Reedy Radon also had HG MOTOR - CHINA moulded into the end cap just like my £7 GoolRC.
  4. Prepare for one of my meandering life novellas.... This was the other day but it still counts, right? The weather was pleasant so I decided to go out and get some video of my Lunchbox. One of the former colliery and washery sites in the valley I live in has recently had a load of clearance work on overgrown bushes and trees so all the old roads and paths etc are nice and clear and because the new regrowth hasn't really started yet, it's about the best time to bash down there. It started off really well and I got some cool slow motion shots driving through water. So far, so good! I proceeded to use my head mount for my phone and got a little bit of nice footage of the van scooting about so feeling encouraged, I started to turn up the wick with my driving. I really pushed the little van to it's limits, making the most of the suspension mods to really throw it around the place. After a while I developed a nice flow to the driving, getting to know where I could floor it and when to ease off, sliding on the dirt and hitting the throttle so hard it would rear up onto the back wheels coming out of the corners, finding the things I could jump over and actually remain upright when landing which is an achievement even for a modded lunchbox. I began to drive up onto the capped off mine shaft and do drop off jumps back off it straight into the dirt to make glorious rooster tails etc. I managed to get almost 15 minutes of glorious action on camera....except I didn't. That's the problem with head mounts. If you get them angled right, you get a nice stable view with the subject nearly always centred because your head is inherently good at tracking stuff. But if you get the angle wrong, you end up with 15 minutes off footage of the floor 😱😱😱😭 Somehow the phone must have slipped downward a few degrees or something so I got the initial little cautious run but 99% of the cool stuff was missed! After I realised my mistake, I started again but with crushing predictability, this time I suffered a tumble about 2 minutes in which resulted in a small breakage that ended the run. I still got some nice footage, which you may enjoy, but I'm dying inside knowing I got even better and it was all slightly out of frame 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️ I think the most painful part is walking around looking like a knob with a phone on my head for 15 minutes with nothing to show for it The weather should be nice again at the weekend so I'm going to try and go back to finish the job. This time I'll be using my old phone as a bluetooth monitor to make sure the filming phone is actually lined up properly lol. Knowing my luck, I'll never be able to replicate that epic run, though! So anyways, here's some of the footage I did manage to get. I haven't published this video because I will try and get more footage at the weekend and re-edit but here's a sneak peek I guess!
  5. I want to do the wide conversion to my Konghead. I have a set of front and rear arms and upper links from an old project and I did, at some point, acquire another set of rears (I think?) for go in the middle but I can't find the bar steward things anywhere! I really don't want to buy two whole parts trees which you have to with these models to get the pair of arms. Seems pointless and not cost effect to buy two parts trees just to get the 2 arms. Does anyone have a pair of rear arms and links knocking about? They don't have to be pretty as long as they are intact and functional. And I will probably need 2 dog bones as well! Cheers!
  6. Yep! I was quite pleased with that one lol
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