nowinaminute

That's what I always use. Even my home made paddle tyres are made with good old Tommy Walsh super glue.

Yes this is the kind performance I expect. Chinese motors may not be as good as the very best but they still make a brushed 540 look like a rubber band in comparison. Shouldn't have any difficulties shifting a DT-03 around.

I was thinking the same thing. Nailed the colour scheme!

This was yesterday but I took the Lunchbox out and gave it a few minutes of badword whilst out for the daily excercise

17T would be the best for wheelies technically. Better acceleration.

I've always used super glue and never had any problems even with paddle tyres with no foam in 🤷‍♂️ Not all GoolRC motors are finned 380 types, they do both kinds.

I can see what you're getting at but plenty of Tamiya motors with the same amount of turns have very different RPM or you get higher turn motors that are faster than lower turn ones. Not to say the Chinese don't exaggerate a lot because they do but just because it says 21T doesn't automatically mean it should perform faster than a Sport tuned. The real test would be whether it actually has 21 turns of wire inside or not.

Not sure with Hobbypower it's quite odd. Some of their stuff looks so close it could be rebranded, it's not just close like the fake Castle motors but borderline identical! There's that cheap clone of the 120a unit with brands such as Tsky written on them and while they are obvious copies, they aren't full-on identical like the Hobbypower stuff seems to be. Hobbywing do seem to have gone upmarket a bit. The 10BL120 is pretty good value though, especially when the likes of Hobbyking have it on sale for £30. Mind you, their own clone of the 120a is pretty good when you can get it for £20 too! I once got an old Ezrun ESC in a joblot and I have no idea what spec it is because the labels are torn off. It could be either the 35, 45 or 60a version but I've never found out. Even plugging it into the usb dongle doesn't help. It's never missed a beat though lol. Tough little thing.

Apologies but even so, my 3800 gets hotter than 35 in my GF01. All I can say is if you say so. Incredibly unusual for such a high kv motor to run so cool even if it is a good brand. The amount of current going through it would have to be tiny. But if that's what you get then good for you.

I find that incredibly hard to believe, sorry. My genuine Castle 3800 motors get hotter than 35c in my Konghead. A 5700 by it's very nature will run hotter than a 3800, more current flowing through it. There's no doubt a Castle motor is better than a cheap one but a 5700KV showing 35 degrees after running for 25 minutes in a 6WD truck? Sorry but that is very difficult to believe.

Not sure why you struggle with wheelies really. This is my DT03 with a cheapo 3900KV and a Floureon 2s: And some running video of the same setup: I had to be quite careful on the throttle to keep the nose down. I have a genuine Castle 3800KV and in the same car/gearing/surface it's not all that far away in my experience. A bit gutsier, a bit cooler but not to a huge extreme. Even a cheapo brushless should be able to throw a DT03 around like a rag doll. EDIT: Turns out it's actually only a 3100KV: Some more 2s footage:

I've never tried one but they might be a pretty good clone inside too. Hard to say without trying one. The fake 8th scale 2650kv version is apparently brilliant for the money.

I have a Lobo II. Pretty much the same thing again except it takes a 7.2v pack instead of 8 AA batteries. Sears sold a version with the Lobo name too but mine is a Nikko. I have both blue and red body shells for it. It's converted to hobby grade electronics.

Not sure about the servo, some French ebay sellers have a lot of Nikko stuff. I have a few vintage parts but nothing for the 1/14. In terms of the 1/10 motor, if you take the stock motor off and remove the plastic cover from it, you'll find a common Mabuchi 27T 540 motor inside as used on Tamiya etc. Cheap and easy to replace.