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About nowinaminute

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  • Birthday 12/04/1982

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    Bridgend (formerly Southampton)
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    Photography, RC, Space exploration, Trains, Aircraft, Ships, Urbex, Industrial architecture/history/ruins, Music etc

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  1. It's funny because everyone got excited a few months ago about a new Wild One and most people were disappointed to find out it was a full size one. I wonder if the rumours got mixed together?
  2. 3M VHB I use a lot. Look for the thicker stuff like you get with gopro pads (type 4991), the larger amount of foam allows you to get a good surface mating even if the surface isn't glass flat whereas the really thin 3m stuff is less able to conform to minor surface imperfections. I used to use off brand stuff but it can come loose if you drive hard or roll etc but the 3m is amazing. Sometimes I'm blown away by how well it will keep a gopro in place! And it's also held a heavy Hobbywing max6 ESC in place through multiple rollovers and heavy landings. It helps a lot to clean the surface, though. Just take care to use something that won't attack the surface. I use iso alcohol on plastic/lexan usually. It also helps to apply some pressure and give it time to bond, I swear it's about 5x stronger after a few hours although in a pinch, it can be impressively strong right away. I've taken RCs out and stuck a gopro mount on them "in the field" and they have held. Adding a little heat with a lighter can help it to bond faster too but not so hot you singe it! More time is definitely better, though. Be careful not to peel the backing off until you need it though, it tends to become inert quite easily if you do that ie: if you have a roll, only peel off exactly what you need, don't peel a load off, cut it then roll it back. Same with if it peels/gets torn off of something unintentionally, you won't get much of a second chance as it looses pretty much all adhesion. When you need to remove it, some heat from a hairdryer will help and it will come off nice and clean without leaving residue. There's also two reusable options that I like to use, although I don't use them nearly as much as I should. If I was more disciplined, it would make life much simpler because parts could be easily interchanged between vehicles in a more modular way. The first is simply decent 3m brand Velcro, it tends to have very decent, VHB like adhesive and the velcro itself seems to stay good for a long time and stands up to many reuses. The other is 3m "dual lock" this is supposed to be like a successor to velcro and has essentially tiny little plastic mushrooms that interlock into each other. This stuff also has really nice VHB style adhesive. This would theoretically be my favourite but I have one slight issue with it. It comes in different strengths with the strength increasing alongside the number of "mushrooms" per square inch and you can mix different grades to tune the strength of the grip but I always feel like the strongest option is a little TOO strong and then the next option down seems to be not quite strong enough and I will occasionally have the ESC come loose after a tumble etc. I need to use it more though and get a better feel for it. Sorry for the massive life story lol. Essentially, I find 3m VHB to be the best overall choice for a quick and strong solution! Just get your surfaces nice and clean and the ESC won't be going anywhere! It works great for servos too. I mean you wouldn't want to mount a 40kg servo into an x-maxx with it, but I've used it a few times on hobby converted nikko/radio shack type stuff around 1/10 scale where I haven't wanted to alter or cut about the original chassis and it's held just fine.
  3. I see what you mean but isn't your illustration assuming that both the inner and outer race of the bearing are being pressed on simultaneously? On models like the Thundershot, it seems like this isn't the case. Saying that, though, even if the inner and outer race of the bearing are able to turn independently, the bearing isn't designed for a lateral load and even if it could handle it, I would expect there to be significant lateral flex between the inner and outer race whilst something as simple as a plastic bearing, as you say, will simply not be capable of that level of deformation. Sometimes simple plastic or metal bearings do just fine. Especially if they are well lubed and buried deep within transmissions away from grit and sand etc. I've taken stuff apart that's been unopened for 30 years and the plastic bearings are still fine if foreign debris haven't found their way in.
  4. They are cool little buggies for sure but I've always wished they would have just done a full size "modern takes" on these old buggies rather than 1/14 that almost makes them a novelty. It seems almost bittersweet to make versions with more modern and competent designs, good standard spec, slipper clutch etc but then shrink it down to make it more of a novelty item. I'm almost certain they would have sold more if they were 1/10 and it's not like they would have stolen sales from the re-releases, they are just way too different. I still hope that one day they will take the original Grasshopper concept, solid axle and all, and make a modern deluxe version with 4 link rear suspension that actually works, double wishbones up front, all the goodies from the tamtech like a clutch and adjustable everything etc. I can dream lol. Still though, in their own right, these are very nice little platforms and it's good to see it returning.
  5. The account the money went to will be long gone by the time ebay try to recover it. Ebay will refund you but they will never get the money back from the seller. That's the risk ebay take by offering you a money back guarantee.
  6. As someone who's not been into scale big rigs and commercial vehicles, I wondered what you guys thought of this offering from RC4WD? https://www.bigsquidrc.com/rc4wd-1-14-armageddon-8x8-hydraulic-dump-truck-fmx-orange-silver/
  7. Thank you very much, now I can experiment with a wide dump truck and tractor too. And maybe one day I can have a wide willy too, it's nice to dream!
  8. Yes the C parts I think. If you have the 2 parts needed to make a rear arm I would be very grateful. Happy to pay a small fee for your trouble, just don't want to spend £10+ on a whole parts tree AND add to the already huge pile of parts trees with 1 or 2 bits missing lol
  9. I know someone who can print for me yes. Not sure how they would hold up but worth a try, maybe! I've used printed DT-02 arms on the front of my Lunchbox and they held up fairly well although not perfect of course. And I have a few others vehicles I would like to make wide so it would save a lot of money and unnecessary parts trees if you have a file I could try out?
  10. BUMP - Just need one more rear arm now. Mad Ax very kindly sent me some parts but I appear to be missing one of the 4 arms I thought I already had so I'm still after one long rear arm!
  11. Normally this is the kind of thing I convert to hobby grade but I'm trying to restore one at the moment and need the standard steering servo/motor thingy as the one in the truck is broken. Does anyone in the UK have on laying around? Needs no be from the older yellow or blue style truck. The later "tiger" ones have a different servo. Many thanks!
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