nowinaminute

I like it! Shame they put such a premium on the price though. But in terms of the actual truck it's just like the Heavy dump truck and the Konghead had a baby so it gets a thumbs up from me.

I find some just tend to do it and some don't. I've never noticed any noticeable increase in resistance from using green slime. I'd be more likely to point to the cheaper black o rings as a culprit than green slime. Some tamiya shock shafts also seem to have a thin layer of black oxide on them which makes them more clingy. The DT03 hopup set is a good example, the front shafts are shiny silver and I've never had binding. The rear shafts have that slight blackness to them and always stick. When I come across shafts like this now i just put them in a drill chuck and use some very fine wet and dry paper followed by polish make them silver again. That seems to help.

I haven't got any of the 1/14 stuff mate. I sold a big lot of it a couple of years back!

I find the stock soft oil works quite well but things can get a bit springy with bigger obstacles and jumps etc. If you find it's under damped for your lining, I would suggest trying a piston change rather than oil change. The discs make a much bigger difference than oil, especially if you use the Tamiya oil set which doesn't have a very big range in viscosity. Great for fine tuning but not for making big adjustments. For example, I found my heavy dump truck to be too bouncy using CVAs and the stock springs. I went from soft oil (approx 400cst) to 1000cst and it made little noticable difference. I had to go up to 2000 or 2500 I think to get a really nice amount of damping. When I rebuilt the shocks later on, I tried the discs with 1 hole and that made it work really well even with the soft oil! Bear in mind this was with the CVA, the cc01 hopup type might work differently out of the box.

Usually they get around that by shipping it via Europe or having stock in Europe. The courier who then transports it from EU to UK just treats it as a European delivery. I've never paid customs for anything from Banggood or Gearbest. Usually any delivery option that mentions Europe or EU or priority line is safe. Touch wood.

I love the truck but I'll reserve judgement on the RC version. The fact that it has a wltoys remote makes the $400 price tag eye brow raising.

Well here's one of my Lexan "fails" The paint came off a treat but left this kind of white coating even though I washed it off thoroughly. It will come off with some effort but it will not simply wash or wipe off and a second treatment of de-solv-it has no effect either. I've tried various different chemicals to get it off but nothing seems to work. It will scrape off if you use your finger nail but obviously this would be sould destroying. I think the telling part is that the windows of the body are absolutely crystal clear despite being smothered with de-solv-it. I'm guessing the original paint etched into the lexan somewhat and left it porous as a result, because of this, some component of the de-solv-it/paint solution has keyed into the surface whereas it just wiped straight off the "virgin" lexan with zero effort required. I think I have finally found a solution, Brasso polish will get rid of the residue and leave a finish that's more than good enough to apply paint to. It's time consuming but at least you can use a soft cloth and get into all the nooks and crannies. It's interesting because like I say, sometimes it goes fine and any residue just wipes/rinses off. My tamiya farm king came out crystal clear after the exact same kind of process:

I seem to get a different result every time I use it lol. I'm sure the paint used plays a big role as well as the material. Sometimes it goes perfectly, my Tamiya Farm king was a good example. That shell came out crystal clear despite multiple treatments. Some stuff is in between, I did a kyosho hi rider Corvette shell and it had different colours and I assume different types of paint and the quality of the end result varied across the sections with different paints. It still remains the most effective stuff I've used overall though.

I think it's the same basic stuff, just that it doesn't always come off properly. I was working on a shell earlier today, sprayed some de-solv-it on and fillowing someone else's advice, decided to be quite sparing, just rubbed it into the paint with a cotton pad, left it to do it's thing and the paint started coming off in big rubbery strips nice and easy. I managed to peel/rub 99% of it off easily with almost no effort and little residue. so far, So good! But then before I even rinsed it, I noticed some chalky white areas forming. I rinsed with soapy water and it was the same. I put some more de-solv-it on, left it again and rinsed and it was still there. I tried a cotton pad with de-solv-it on and rubbed in a circular motion which definitely helped and got rid of all the bright white parts but there is still clouding there. I dont think it will show up by the time it has been painted but you can definitely see that some parts are crystal clear and other parts not so much. I've also noticed what looks like hundreds of micro fractures in the lexan in certain places when viewed at the right angle. I don't know if this is down to the de-solv-it it or the original paint etching into the surface slightly?

Have you guys watched any videos of this on YouTube? I have to say it bashes remarkably well, it seems to jump really nicely and appears to be pretty tough. I thought it might be a bit limited because it seems a bit like a pumped up buggy but it really does seem to go well off road and on road too of course. I would definitely consider one in the future. I wish Tamiya would make stuff like this. Competent modern chassis but still has flamboyant looks.

Digging up an old thread but I was interested in this too. Not just for WT01 but for 01B and other brands entirely. I've been trying to work out what those arms and I'm sure the rears are Duratrax but I can't quite pin down which ones. They have that distinctive curve at the wheel end but the only ones I can find like that are the Evader BX but they don't look long enough. I'm sure they are some kind of Duratrax arms though, they even have arms with graphite written on them like the ones on the customrcmodels site.

Is that using the stock battery? Because it is really just 2 18650 li-ion "vape" cells inside a plastic case. They have a very low c rating and the voltage sags a lot. Switching to a better pack could help.

It seems to me like storage is probably the biggest contributing factor, stuff that gets left in sheds or lofts for decades fares worse than brand new unbuilt kits that have been kept more or less at room temperature. It's the same with tyres I suppose. Just like plastic, they aren't going last forever even in an ideal world but the differences you see between 2 of the same tyres of the same age but stored differently can be drastic. One can be virtually as good as new and the other can be like slimy goo or dust. Hard to say if newer stuff is going to last better at this stage although ABS does seem to feature less prominently these days which helps. I don't have a ton of vintage Tamiyas but one thing I've noticed with my sizeable collection of Nikko stuff is that things made in the 90s seems to hold up better than stuff from the 80s in terms of being brittle. I know you could easily say that's just because the plastic isn't as old but I think by now, stuff from the mid 90s would be starting to show it's age too but that isn't always the case. The Dictator family of cars in particular, every 80s example I have seems to have one part or another broken in high stress areas but I've never had any of signs of undue fragility with any of the later versions even though many of those are 25+ years old. It's actually quite common to put the bodies of the earlier and more iconic versions onto the chassis of a later model to make it hold up better if you want to run it. So I'm sure less than ideal storage plays a role but I believe improved manufacturing methods can have a significant effect too. I expect simply by keeping the models out of direct sun and in average living room conditions you'd be helping the plastic a lot vs an attic or garden shed etc.

Usually true but there are exceptions. I have a Castle 3800KV somewhere and the rear cap is not intended to be removed, it's glued into place. And worse still, the sensor board makes it impossible to even get the rear bearing out from the front. The older sensorless version you could at least try and get it from the front because there was a clear path to the bearing. That seems to be an exception though, even the cheapo ones you can take the back off and reach the front bearing quite easily after taking the rotor out.

I usually just use a cheapo sealed can from China in the 3-4000KV range. They aren't world class but they are plenty more powerful than a brushed motor. They get quite hot at the beach sometimes but I'm pretty sure a brushed 540 of equivalent RPM would be hotter still and probably throw in the towel. I've never managed to kill one of those cheapo motors. For a little more, those sensored ones are great too. I haven't used those cool looking Surpass ones but I've heard they are really good. Not ideal for beach running though I would assume! I run on sand a lot so I put some silicone sealant around where the wires go into the case as they usually aren't perfectly sealed. I also cover up the screw holes at the front that aren't being used to attatch the motor as due the design of the gearbox where the motor mounts, it's possible for sand to get to those holes and then inside the motor. You could also use that paper gasket thing supplied with the kit which should work too. For some reason, the surface the motor mounts on isn't flat but has channels moulded into it and some of them lead directly to the unoccupied screw holes on the motor.