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nowinaminute

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Everything posted by nowinaminute

  1. Predictably, the Hotshot is still in a state of half finishedness. Same for pretty much every project I've ever posted about on here! I'm starting to accept I most likely have a combination of ASD and ADD. A delightful blend of obsessive acquisition and hoarding combined with poor attention span. I seem to find some focus about once every 6 months, work on stuff prolifically for a few months and then lose momentum again. How many other people get this?
  2. Not sure if it's strictly black friday, but you can get the Golf mk1 for £101.59 on amazon currently https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01ALC65V4?smid=A30DC7701CXIBH&tag=pepperugc03-21&ascsubtag=2608954754 It comes from EU warehouse but I haven't had any issues with paying fees in the UK so far, either at checkout or delivery. Anyone else?
  3. I have tried the GPM one piece ones and they actually worked pretty well! I was sceptical because like everyone, I couldn't get past the fact that the wheel would be rubbing against the nut, but in reality, it doesn't seem to be a significant issue. I used them to fit hex wheels and lunchbox tyres all round on a Sand Rover and it worked perfectly well. There was a small amount of slop but you could probably overcome this by adding a little shoe goo or similar between the adapter and the wheel. I also noticed that the wheel nut will tighten all the way up and reach the end of the thread on the axle so it can't squeeze the wheel, the only downside is it's possible for the wheel and nut to rub but again, in practice it wasn't a problem. If you wanted a really sturdy setup, you could do the following: Glue or threadlock the bearings to the adapter. Glue or threadlock bearings to axle Glue wheel to adapter If you do the above, it won't be possible for the wheel and nut to come into contact as the entire wheel/adapter combo will be locked in place and won't be able to move side to side on the axle and the nut will have reached the end of the thread before it can touch the wheel. I haven't found the need to do this so far, though. No doubt a true hex conversion would work better, but I was surprised by how good the adapters worked in the real world for everday use.
  4. They seem to be suggesting that but it will diff out at the slightest hint of terrain when going at trail speeds. And lol at pumping the throttle on and off to make it look like the rear suspension actually works 😅 the motor popping up and down makes the axle slap obvious. I bet if you could see a plot of the throttle it would be zero every time the rear suspension actually moves lol. Still a cool looking rig, though. Just a bit confused why Tamiya keep on putting the nicest bodies on the worst chassis. I know part of the charm of the LB is it's primative suspension but I'm convinced a mk2 with a better chassis would sell, too.
  5. Looks like it has the sort of medium length CB arms? Would have preferred the longer arms like WR01/01B etc. Would have been less tippy and you could have more articulation. Looks like the tyres are right on the limit or scraping the archers with the stock setup. Still like it, though!
  6. At least they can spell it right now I've long since learned that grasp of English is in no way a metric for quality when it comes to Chinese stuff. I have a WLToys buggy that is incredibly durable for the price and performs great and it has "strength headphones" written down the side!
  7. Glad to see a higher end radio coming from dumborc! This is good news to me and possibly many other people who have been frustrated by the parent company Radiolink splitting their lines into the more premium radiolink branded stuff and the budget oriented dumboRC and then making each line incompatible through firmware lockouts. I began to switch from flysky to dumborc a couple of years ago because I was having random range and lag issues (possibly outside interference as it seemed to be location dependent) I probably could have got around it by getting a newer flysky transmitter with the AFHDS 2A protocol, but I would have required all new receivers to benefit, anyway, so I decided a change was as good as a rest. I've always been pleased with the performance of dumborc but at the same time, annoyed that the parent company Radiolink put a firmware wall between the dumbo and more premium radiolink systems so if, for example, you have a bunch of dumborc receivers, you can't bind a radiolink transmitter to them (even though the radiolink branded receivers and exactly the same physically) for this reason I've kept running flysky for the times when I needed a radio with more than the basic features but I've always wanted to streamline down to one system for everything. Anyway, in a strange turn of events, DumboRC is about to launch a radio system that's far more advanced than most of the (premium) Radiolink systems. I'm guessing this is in part down to how well the Dumbo branded stuff has sold over the years and how many people have wanted to have a more premium option without having to invest in two different lines of TX and RX from the same company. Looks like a good bit of kit with 10 channels and various bells and whistles. It's just starting to be available to pre-order sites like Ali
  8. Looks like the new wheels that will feature on the upcoming CW01 Pajero will be getting an independent release as a Hornet hopup... Nice to see a new hop up for vintage models, even if it is just capitalising on an existing asset. Made for 1.9" tyres such as the Rock Blocks plus a myriad of 3rd party options. Could make something between a buggy and monster buggy using some chunky crawler tyres, for example. Tempted to get some for my Radio Shack Golden Arrow.... Part number #22077
  9. I spoke to someone at Plaza not long about about when standard air mail to the UK would return. They explained that although Japan post have resumed air "parcels" to the UK, it's actually the "small packet" service that they used for most small orders, this technically comes under letter mail an still hasnt been resumed. The terminology and categorisation is quite misleading/confusing as a box up to 30x30x30cm and 2kg can be sent as a "small packet" and comes under "letter mail" Anyways, still no sign of it being resumed for the UK. Feels like it's been forever now!
  10. They work fine out of the box but unlike the 860, you CAN use a programming card to further refine the settings. The default setup will work fine, though! I used some of these on an HBX Bonzer, a TL-01B clone with the same suspension arms, wheels/tyres as the Wild Dagger. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32759891545.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.1.56a4576enE5mKh&algo_pvid=9ba7ece0-f1c1-4fa5-b921-99064cb8cc1d&algo_exp_id=9ba7ece0-f1c1-4fa5-b921-99064cb8cc1d-0&pdp_npi=3%40dis!GBP!14.45!12.57!!!18.04!!%40214528be16902471447663934d07d7!62029268929!sea!UK!167127361&curPageLogUid=hNEpnNOqtGqu Worked really well for cheapos, just needed to put some decent oil in (I think I used 1000cst)
  11. It might be the same size, I might just be misremembering. Just had the idea stuck in my head for some reason.
  12. I had one once but sold it on. I think the chassis borrows from another design (as is common with digitcon) Can't be certain but I think it may have resembled an enlarged Taiyo 4x4 chassis as seen in the dash etc. 280 motor as a recall which was a little disappointing for it's size but the gearing is quite low so it still has good torque if not outright speed. I think it's the same chassis as the Radio Shack Rage.
  13. I think I might have read about owners of the lunchbox mini complain about brittle plastic, too.
  14. I was trying to think which car I had with the grey plastic and it was the DT-03. The front end on mine disintegrated. The gearbox section made of black plastic seems much more durable ....
  15. You can sort of trace those all back to the screws though if you follow the cracks. Again, not saying it's ok or normal, but I think machine screws can cause failure earlier. I do think the grey plastic is more brittle though, so maybe between that and the type of screws it just came to a head prematurely.
  16. Are the machine screws non-standard? If so, did you tap the holes or just use a dab of grease on the screws? I feel like sometimes using machine screws puts a lot of outward pressure on the plastic. Not saying the plastic failing this early is OK, but I think sometimes machine screws can accelerate the failures.
  17. Took me ages to find this post lol I want to retract my recommendation of Super Lube, or at least advise caution. I have a cartridge of the stuff that is maybe 2/12 years old, and it has begun to separate quite a bit. I first realised when I picked up the cartridge and it nearly slipped out of my hand! There's a nice puddle of oil on the shelf, too! I contacted the manufacturer, and they basically shrugged it off by saying it has past it's "shelf life" which I found odd as I have other greases that are much, much older and haven't separated like this and also, they claim resistance to separation as one of it's strong points "not run, drip, evaporate or form gummy deposits, and will not melt or separate."" The strange thing is that prior to this, I had bought a small metal tin of the stuff from an ebay seller and it was good to the last drop and never separated. When I used it up, I got another tin and it began to separate within months. The seller insisted he was still decanting from vats of genuine Super Lube, but I found the stark difference suspicious, so I decided to "cut out the middle man" and buy some for myself, but now the same thing is happening (although it took longer to happen) I wonder if maybe the formula changed or there was a dodgy batch? It has always been stored indoors so very mild storage conditions WELL within manufacturer specs. Or maybe it IS normal and I'm complaining about nothing? All I know is I have a canister of Lucas Red n Tacky that is still absolutely perfect despite being older. Also a tin of Carlube MP2 which is older still, but shows no signs of separating. The same can be said for every single tube of Tamiya "standard grease" I've come across, including original 80s tubes. It's a shame, because I used the Red n Tacky for most general purpose stuff, and the Super Lube was used for critical applications based on it's supposedly higher quality. I have heard from Lucas that RNT is plastic safe, but they aren't as vocal about it as Super Lube, so if, for example, I wanted to lube something with hard to find or irreplaceable gears, I would use the Super Lube, just to be on the safe side. The Super Lube in the canister still seems usable to a degree, but after the oil loss, is understandably a little firmer and more wax like, which is going to result in more drag, so I will no longer use it for gears. Anyways, long story short, the grease I assumed was a cut above, and reserved for special applications, turns out to have a much shorter usable life than the cheap and cheerful red n tacky, along with pretty much every other grease I've used for RC!
  18. I buy them on Aliexpress. They have socket head, button head, countersunk etc with tapping threads. Quality has been fine for the price in my experience. I get most of my machine thread stuff on there too, although if I'm in a rush, local dedicated hardware companies like bolt base, kayfast and great Western fastners are all much cheaper than RC branded stuff.
  19. Great price for these! Will fit most of the 4x4 wpl models. The main photo just shows the metal axle housings, so I wasn't quite sure if I would get the full kit, but I and many others recieved the housings, axles, gears, bearings, knuckles, front universals and rear hex adapters and steering links. I also received metal drive shafts! The listing says you may or may not recieve these, guess I got lucky of they cleared out the sets without driveshafts first. I also wasn't sure if they would be genuine or one of the off brands such as RCR/C but they are the official ones. Even come with the paper gaskets for extra mesh fine tuning on the diff pumpkins. These sets usually sell for 40-60 even without the driveshafts. Free next day delivery if you have prime, too! https://amzn.eu/d/dEGPx27
  20. Haha I was going to say it might have been limited to 2s at the request of the reseller. 3s can quickly kill a 27t or faster brushed motor depending on the usage scenario and gearing etc. That's not to say it will always happen, but there's a big enough chance that some companies won't risk letting customers do it. A brushed MT, for example, could easily cremate itself on 3s if you run on grass or on sand etc a lot, especially with a large capacity lipo and on a hot day etc. Either the windings will charr or the magnets lose all their strength.
  21. I love it. And I'm grateful stuff that looks like this is still being released in a world of jelly mould colour vomit tribal graphics. It's more than a lazy re-defo, too, with some actual unique cosmetic parts. You won't catch me complaining. Seems like Tamiya can't win. Give people an up to date take on a classic, with trademark quirky styling, something people have cried out for, and it gets rejected (Super Avante) Give them a twist on an old favourite, and make it more than a lazy recolour, to boot, and people don't like that, either. 🤷‍♂️
  22. I would say they are generally very safe as long as you look after them and use them responsibly. I haven't seen a single issue so far that didn't involve neglect/negligence/abuse etc. On facebook groups in particular, it always seems to involve using damaged packs, charging damaged packs, over charging or over discharging, using the wrong type of charger or wrong settings, poor cable management leading to shorts, bad solder, wires twisted together instead of soldered etc. And a common theme running through it all is unattended charging. Even if for some reason your charger decides to go nuts and ignore the correct settings and cut off voltage etc, and cause a perfectly healthy pack to fail, if you actually pay attention, and know how long it roughly takes or the pack to charge, there's just no excuse for allowing a pack to over charge to the point of thermal runaway, it takes a long time to happen and you get a lot of visual warning. I quite often go up to my charger because I feel like it's taking a while and it's inevitably just on the verge of the charge finishing. You certainly get used to how long it SHOULD take so you would be overly aware if an abnormally long time had passed without the charger beeping to announce it had finished. The problem is that people leave them charging in another room/garage etc and just forget about them and hope nothing goes wrong. Seen a lot of people on facebook who simply left the house with them charging away! It helps to store them in a safe place with at least some rudimentary fire proofing but to be perfectly honest, It's almost unheard of for a perfectly healthy pack to spontaneously combust while sitting idle and not attached to a charger etc. You can use a batsafe box or lipo bag etc whilst charging for containment if there was an issue but again, if you're paying proper attention, you would be aware there was an issue way before it escalated , and using boxes and bags etc prevents you from detecting warning signs like puffing etc which begin to happen a significant time before thermal runaway comes into it. Bottom line is follow all the basic guidelines. Don't over charge, don't over discharge, always balance charge, always storage charge, never continue using swollen or otherwise damaged packs, never continue using packs that refuse to balance or have developed excessive internal resistance, never charge unattended, always use lipo appropriate smart chargers and NEVER use dumb nimh style chargers etc. If you follow those rules and don't get complacent, I'd wager you'd be more likely to lose your home as a result of all the electricity, gas and water that's coursing around it 24/7
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