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Everything posted by nowinaminute

  1. This might be a silly question but did you just wire the LEDs into a Tamiya light kit or did you wire them straight to a BEC or other power source using inline resistors? I only ask because the voltage and amp draw can vary quite a lot for the higher performing LEDs so if you just attatched them to a Tamiya light kit they might have been under driven. For example, I have some cheap generic 5mm LEDs from ebay that state a 3.2v forward voltage and 30ma max but the Nichia hit maximum brightness at 70ma/3.7v so if you had a supply voltage safe for the 3.2v LED then the 3.7v LED would not get to max brightness. I honestly don't know how much difference it would make but the Nichia I have tried are certainly very bright although I agree they have a wide angle and are somewhat diffuse. Also, what model Cree did you try?
  2. Seems like cogging but I've never seen anything that bad from such a combo, especially with the short gearing of the lunchbox. If I had to guess, I would say either there is a hardware problem or a bad connection somewhere along the way. Even when I run a tiny 380 size motor in my Lunchbox it only really cogs if I try to make a creeping start uphill or something, otherwise it's very responsive. A full fat 540 brushless should have no problems shifting this even without a sensor.
  3. I normally just use a bit of nitro fuel tube. Buy a length of it and it will last you years.
  4. I totally agree hence I said: The fact it works so well with a 3s brushless means a massive improvement. Even with that setup, if you weren't trying to torture it, you could probably get years of runs before you had to replace something. A more modest setup would probably last indefinitely. Like I said in my original post, I wasn't trying to be overly critical or negative. I'll probably be ordering some at some point because it's way cheaper than a ball diff and I certainly won't need to run a setup any more powerful than in the video. It's going to last longer on 3s brushless with the strengtheners than it would last stock with a silver can. I think that's more than good enough. I don't mind if I have to replace some inexpensive gears once a year if I'm getting the benefit of brushless power, I do mind having to change them every few months with a 27T so I think the improvement is definitely worthwhile whether you want an immortal standard setup or you want more power without something breaking every other run.
  5. Guys, I can't fit my CVA minis but I have read that on the standard (non-rally) chassis, you can fit them and raise the ground clearance. Seems like you can raise the clearance of a normal M-05 by fitting the slightly longer CVA mini but you cannot fit them to the rally version. Does anyone know what the difference is in ground clearance between the rally version and a normal version jacked up with the CVA mini? If it's about the same then it seems like it would be cheaper to switch to the non-RA parts and fit my mini CVAs than to buy 2 pairs of super minis? Sounds like you'd get better travel with the standard uprights and longer shocks too?
  6. I don't want to sound negative but is that clicking at 36 seconds, 44 seconds, 1:35, 2:14 etc? Maybe it's just the dog bones in the cups or something? Like I say, not trying to be negative, it's clearly way better stock either way, the standard diff would slip with a silver can doing launches like that let alone a 3s brushless.
  7. This is for last night again but I took the box out to try out it's lights. They work pretty well! Tons of light output but the beam is a little on the wide side maybe. Not bad for just 2 lights though. It's not going to allow me to blast around an unknown area in pitch black but you can say that about most RC lighting systems. The only ones that give massive illumination like that are ones with multiple roof lights etc. They certainly make night driving possible in familiar places though simply because I know where it is at any given time. And they work really well when driving slowly through trees etc.
  8. Tell a lie, looks like someone told them what it was, they have relisted it starting at £400!
  9. I just noticed it on ebay, seller had no idea what it was and bidding started at £9. The listing has been ended now. Someone probably offered £50 and the seller couldn't believe their luck! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vintage-Remote-Control-Racecar/333635602175?hash=item4dae3b46ff:g:h5MAAOSwMwhe9Mv2 They are probably sat there now, thinking the buyer must have more money than sense!
  10. Not today but last night I spent half an hour wiring up some LED lights for my Lunchbox. It's easier to just buy ready made kits but you don't know how good the lights are and they tend to have resistors in that make them safe for at least 6v and sometimes as much as 12v but the problem is if you use them with a BEC that has a lower voltage then you don't get the maximum potential from the lights. So I used one of those calculators, added the BEC voltage, LED drop voltage and current, got the right resistors, soldered and heat shrunk it all together and popped a servo plug on the end. End result? My "expensive" Nichia LEDs are very bright but have totally different colour temps! never had that with those cheap Chinese ready made kits or cheap lots of 5mm LEDs off ebay. So much for premium! I thought these companies did "binning" these days to make sure batches had broadly similar shades of white? I guess Nichia don't and neither do RS components! I guess I'll have to go through the bag I have and try and sort them into pairs as best I can! Oh well, it still looks pretty good, the amount of light they kick out is pretty impressive and they will come in handy when the days get short again. Cant wait to scoot it around on the beach in the dusk. Really need to get a better matching pair in there though, I'm usually immune from OCD but it's got me twitching lol
  11. Mine would groan "finish meeeeee" and then about 20 other cars would join in and start saying the same thing.
  12. I was worried about that too but it seems to be ok with blue threadlock. I suppose it makes sense, I've taken apart laptops plenty of times that have used inserts and blue threadlock. I think the red stuff would be a recipie for disaster though. I saw some videos on YouTube too with m4 and m5 inserts and the bolts snapped before the inserts broke free. I expect the plastic would give way on the knuckle before that happened (the plastic parts in the test were chunkier) but I'm confident there's enough strength there for a little dab of threadlock.
  13. Yes the amount of material can be a limiting factor for sure. These knuckles were inside of the minimum stated in the spec sheets for the inserts though so I went for it. It would definitely be nice to bypass the need to force tapping screws in into holes all the time, we all know how that tends to work out in a decade or 2 when the plastic becomes brittle, those areas of tension are always the first to go. I'll have to keep an eye out for other possible places to use it. Another thing I've seen that can reduce stresses from screws is on some vehicles where it's possible to drill right through the screw "tunnel" or "seat" and out the other side and then use a tapping screw and nyloc nut. I first noticed this on the Traxxas Cat which is a variation of the Nikko F10 buggy but where the Nikko just has tapping screws holding the gearbox together, on the traxxas they have machine screws going right out the other end of the case with a nut on, that way you don't have that horrible outwards pressure from the screw in the plastic, just a slight pinching instead. Those areas are one of the first to go on Nikko F10 buggies and similar models like the Radio Shack Golden Arrow, I've even had new old stock spare transmissions that have cracked around the screws while still in the packet. As soon as I saw the traxxas, I went and drilled out all my Nikkos and added machine screws and nuts! It's not applicable to every RC and again, it depends on the amount of plastic "meat" available among other things although it needs less than you need to install inserts.
  14. Not necessarily. Brushless with NIMH is better than brushed with NIMH. Brushless are technically more efficient all else being equal so I don't see why NIMH is inherently less suited to brushless than it is brushed. You'll get more out a of NIMH + brushless than you will a brushed + lipo. I would say it goes in this order from "worst" to "best" NIMH + brushed lipo + brushed NIMH + brushless Lipo + brushless That's assuming motors of similar specs. A brushless motor will generally draw less current than a brushed motor of similar power although it's worth bearing in mind that the typical 1/10 brushless motor is 3300-4000KV which is in the ballpark or a 15t brushed motor so some of that efficiency tends to have been traded for RPM. Lipo will always beat NIMH but that's the same regardless of motor type, it doesn't mean you can't get some of the benefits of brushless whilst staying with NIMH.
  15. You could try a 2838 or 28 45 motor? They are the same dimensions as a 380 and 390 respectively, will fit the 380 Motor mount but have a 3.175mm shaft like a 540 motor. Then it should just be a case of finding a 0.8m/32dp 10t pinion.
  16. Lunch box is the obvious one. Besides that, Kamtec sell a lot of shells with the correct wheelbase but they are meant for banger racing so they aren't the most detailed shells. They can be made to look quite good with some careful painting though. There's some chinese shells for 1/12 chinese RC vehicles that fit I think but they tend to be quite blobby anonymous looking modern shells. Ok for bashing but not very distinctive. Aside from that, sometimes you can find toy grade stuff with suitable shells. I found this souped up 70s hippy van on steroids a while back which I'm slowly building a chassis for, it just doesn't go with the yellow and red🤣
  17. I found this UK supplier who has a good price on a type that is both well regarded for quality and is quite compact so doesn't require as large a hole drilling out as some types which is preferable to removing a lot of material. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/192308448492 You can get ones that are narrower still but they are intended for placing into moulds rather than being thermally inserted so they are not tapered. I don't know how that would affect insertion using heat. The linked ones are ones with the smallest wall thickness I could find that still have a tapered end. I've taken a few vehicles out for spirited runs so far with no issues yet.
  18. I'm sure we've all experience unwanted departures of those step screws from the knuckles at one time or another. 🤬 Whether a previous owner stripped the threads or you drive in dusty conditions a lot or they just decided to exit the vehicle because they felt like it. And sometimes the screw falling out can also lead to missing dog bones etc too. It happens a lot in vehicles like TL-01, WR01/WT01/WR02/GF01 etc Some people pop nail varnish in in the threads, some people use super glue but it can prove to be irreversible. Alloy knuckles are a good fix because you can use threadlock but they cost a lot more. Adding them to an entire fleet of vehicles can soon add up! Well, I think I might have found a cheap solution! Thermal threaded inserts! You see people use these a lot in 3d printing and similar inserts are often used in parts for electronics such as laptops etc. All you have to do is drill the hole out slightly, put in the threaded insert (ones designed for thermal insertion are usually tapered to help) and then introduce a soldering iron. Once the insert is hot enough it will gently sink into the plastic. All you have to do is stop when it's at the necessary depth. You now have a metal thread inside the knuckle and you can use blue threadlock to make sure the step screw stays put but is still removable when necessary! From various tests I've seen, the inserts are very strong and often exceed the performance of a screw directly in the plastic plist of course they can be threadlocked. I'll have to try it out a bit more before I announce it a complete success but it seems very promising. It could save a lot of money and inconvenience for Tamiya users and for some old/rare/obscure models it could be a life saver. I once had a Nikko Dictator out of action for almost a year before I couldn't find another screw because parts are so rare. Nikko actually addressed the problem in later models by introducing parts purely to ensure the screws can fall put but for those oldest models, this mod could mean I can run them care free without fear of a screw getting loose and rending the car unusable for god knows how long!
  19. Mostly comes down to watching ebay and facebook market like a Hawk. I tend to browse the RC car listings without putting in any specific search term then look out for stuff that has very generic descriptions like "rc truck" "rc car" etc, sometimes stuff just slips through without raising much attention because you can only really ID it from the item picture. I got the Corvette and Double Dare with a spare set of tyres and a few packs of brand new parts for about £50 but the Double Dare had no body shell and getting another shell would cost more than £50 alone so that's what I meant about sometimes it's easy to get the main vehicle but the accessories can end up costing many times more Sometimes you get a completish one sell for an ok price too, sometimes they just don't seem to sell for as much as you'd expect for some reason, ebay is weird like that. Another one to watch out for is buy it now listings where they either don't really know what they have or they know but it has breakages or missing parts and they overestimate how much that effects the value. If you go to a site like Item alert you can set up searches and it will notify you within 15 minutes of the listing going live so it can help you get a chance to see it before anyone else snaps it up. Something else I do (although it can be long winded) is to buy another vehicle listed at spares or repairs with parts I need, take off the parts and then just sell it on usually for the same price. I find with spares or repairs stuff, it doesn't really effect the value much if you remove 1 or 2 parts. Or if you have spares, you can always take off parts you want but add other parts that you have spares off so it ends up about the same level of completeness. Another thing I often do is remove the old school receiver if there is one present, you can usually sell an old acoms receiver for £15-20 and and makes zero difference to the value of the car it's sitting in when you come to re-sell it so for example I might win something for £50 on auction, take a few parts off and the receiver, sell it again for £40-50 buy it now then sell the receiver for £15-20 so I can make my money back or maybe a little more. It works for hopups sometimes too, sometimes I buy a car and run it for months or years and then when I go to sell, take off the hopups and put standard parts on and it sells for the same price then you can keep the hopups or sell them separately.
  20. Oh and one other observation. There must be a deep dark pit somewhere that's full of car crusher chassis covers because 99% of them aren't present!
  21. Haha glad to see this thread still going. I havent forgotten either but I tend to drift between projects like a fart in the wind unfortunately. I actually managed to acquire a few trucks in the past year or so. I don't earn much so my disposable income is low but I've learned that only makes me better at finding bargains on ebay/boot sales/facebook market etc. I still have that original Big Brute. I subsequently managed to find a corvette, double dare and usa-1 in various states or repair, spent less than 100 on those 3. I intend to keep the USA-1 and either the Brute or Corvette. Progress is low though because of my poor attention span lol. The biggest issue I find with these older vehicles is it's easy to acquire the bulk of them for quite cheap but then you struggle to find things like tyres and body shells without spending a fortune. The USA-1 and corvette have body shells, the Brute and Double Dare don't. The wheels for the USA-1 are present and intact, the tyres are a little firm. Wheels and tyres for the Corvette and Dare are present and the rubber is good with no cracks. I managed to get all the body accessories for the Brute but the cost of a repro shell would be as much as I paid for the whole truck. And the wheels and tyres are like gold dust in good condition but that's not so bad as I can chuck on some generic white rims and some of those large chinese Chevron tyres. I think I prefer the Brute to the Corvette but the Corvette is more complete so I really don't know what to do. Between my tendency to switch between projects and the fact that I try to just wait until the right parts come up at a reasonable price, progress is indeed slow although I've had the Brute running a few times. Oh and PS: I can confirm all 6 gearboxes are noisy, I'm sure there must just be a wave in the moulding of one of the gears. Even with brand new gears inside they make a racket so between that and what I see on youtube, I think that's just how they are. I'm less bothered by it now.
  22. I have some of these and they work fine (to my surprise) The nut snugs up to the non threaded part of the shaft and leaves enough space for the wheel to turn. Did you drill the hole in the wheel out so it doesn't touch the shaft? No doubt the replacement parts are a superior option but I was pleasantly surprised by the adaptors. I've been using them with monster wheels on my daughters Kumamon buggy for weeks now with no issues.
  23. Correction, it was literally one pass from empty. This whole project was supposed to be cheap and I'm reluctant to spend another £10 on a miniature tin of spray paint just to finish a body that's already messed up. I've tried to be positive but it has gone from bad to worse. I think I'm just going to forget about it for now.
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