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nowinaminute

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Everything posted by nowinaminute

  1. Maybe they snuck a little bellcrank system in there.....we can dream
  2. Hi there, Thanks for helping! Could you tell me the approximate measurement between the hex and the outer edge of the rim (car side) A bit like this photo of a full size car wheel:
  3. Hi, thanks for the suggestion! I really wanted chrome or black, though. But thank you, I really appreciate everyone's help!
  4. Thanks for that! I came across that listing, but unfortunately they are OOS of the rear type which I need.
  5. Yeah I agree, I said a few pages ago that extending the shock towers can be done pretty simply. I think altering the shock cap could work too. Cut the eyelet off, drill a hole and insert a machine screw, basically.
  6. Just a little bit of the video I got last night. Loving this thing. Plenty of work left to to, but already so much fun. Really getting short on places like this to drive local to me. And even this place now has a load of fly tipped rubbish covering it so it's basically a few sq meters of nice loose gravel. All I want is a nice patch of dirt/gravel lol. Once place I used to go is now fenced off and used to store plant machinery. Another has mostly been covered in tarmac. Need to get on google earth and start prospecting again.
  7. This was the kind of thing I was thinking of. I think I've seen someone take the stock cap and shave the eyelet off, drill a hole through it, and have an m3 screw coming through, too. It's the other side of the diaphragm, so it doesn't affect the operation or anything. should allow you to swap a super mini CVA for a mini one, or if it's already a mini, get full range from it.
  8. Hmm yes it looks that way actually. Not the same parts but the same concept
  9. Hmm definitely very poor travel at the front. Probably won't matter that much in real world use, but it's still kind of frustrating. Looks like the arms can just about get parallel to the ground at full compression.....that's pretty much where you want the middle point to be on a typical off road setup. Definitely my least favourite aspect, even though I know it probably won't matter all that much in practice. Clearly the original tub was off limits for modifying. The stock towers are so small, and the U bracket mounting solution wastes a fair bit of space, too, so clearly it was the only shock they could use.
  10. Went to test new tyres out and take a few photos. Wheel nut came loose.....left Tamiya wrench and a few other tools on the rug by the front door when I was loading my backpack up!!! Nooooooooooooooooooooo On the plus side, I got through a pack before the wheel started flapping around, and I got some nice photos and I'm pretty sure some good video, too. Stay tuned!
  11. I think it was from a crazy 6WD contraption, if I remember rightly? If you could measure the offset on one of them for me, that would be great!
  12. It's a simple problem in concept, but in reality, a bit of a treasure hunt/wild goose chase/can of worms, so prepare for one of my customary ridiculously long and obsessive posts! Basically, I've gotten to the point with my current Nikko project where I needed to switch to aftermarket wheels and tyres. There are two reasons for this. The first one is that by the time this was made, Nikko had abandoned the standard size stub axles/outer drive cups things, so unless you have access to a lathe, you have to stick with the stock plastic bushings. I don't need to explain why this is an issue. I have 4 of these stub axles a friend machined for me, but their services are no longer available, and I have 6 other vehicles that use these axles, so there just aren't enough to go round! Secondly, out of all my Nikko projects, this is the most powerful and the stock tyres aren't going to last very long! The stock wheels look awesome in that cheesy late 90s / early 2000s way, but they are a non standard beadlock design and the tyres have a slightly smaller inner diameter on the street side vs the vehicle side. Basically, there's no replacement tyres available that will fit. So my only real solution is to try and find aftermarket wheels and tyres that look the same or at least compliment the looks of the vehicle. So I need a 2.2" wheel with plenty of negative offset and wide enough for fairly chunky tyres in the region of 55mm This is the stock look: I got a set of these for cheap on Aliexpress. The tyres are just the perfect diameter, and I liked the wheels, too, but the offset is no good. The wheels are too close to the chassis and the tyres contact the front motor when steering. I could try using hex wideners, but I always see those as a last resort. On the plus side, they would at least not have to be very wide. The wheels for the Cen ME16/Mini Madness trucks fits and the offset is a bit better. They are discontinued though, so getting scarce. I have found some nice chrome ones, though. Ironically, though, the look of them better matches the looks of my cars sister car, the Super Dictator: The best wheels I have in my possession in terms of offset are the Tamiya Willd Dagger/Twin Detonator etc style, but I just don't think they look quite right. They don't look BAD in isolation. Some chrome of black ones, especially would look decent: But every time I look at them and think they look quite decent: I go back to a photo of the stock wheels and it just doesn't seem quite right! The best wheels I have on hand in terms of compromise between offset and matching the original looks are these ones, but they are almost TOO 90s/00s chavtastic! I think I have to concede they are the closest thing I have on hand at the moment, though. These rims just happened to come with a set of those nice large Austar Chevron tyres monster truck tyres you get on aliexpress etc. With all this in mind, I've been searching for the ideal rims. Almost as soon as I started googling, I found the HPI Super Star MT which looks really similar to the stock ones, and come in Chrome and Black. Absolutely perfect! Only problem is, they take the term "discontinued" to dizzying new heights! I literally can't find them anywhere apart from one US ebay seller who wants stupid money. I can't put into words how frustrating it is, because those are literally THE ONES!! Then I found these, that come along with a set of 4 Austar MT tyres. They look quite similar to the HPI wheels. I'm pretty sure the offset isn't as extreme as the HPI ones, but if they are the same as the chavtastic rims that also came with a set of Austar MT tyres, they could be a pretty great solution. I'm sure some guys on here have had those rims... @wolfdogstinkus ?? @Prescient ? Anyone else?? Has anyone still got some of these rims on hand and could measure the offset? I also found these newer cen wheels which almost look right, but I feel like the way the spokes don't start till you go really deep into the wheel doesn't look enough like the originals: Also, the chrome version just looks a bit too fussy and not clean and sleek like the originals: So that brings us about up to date. So basically, the wheels that are about as perfect as it could get are rarer than rocking horse poo. I'm bascially looking for late 90s/early 00s wheels when most people are glad they have been consigned to history My second favourite ones (the black ones that came with the tyres) are the wrong offset. The third best candidate is an unknown on the offset. Does anyone know any other 2.2" spokey wheels that have a suitable offset and are wide enough for monster ish tyres!?
  13. I was talking more specifically about the improved battery door retention (which Tamiya themselves implemented on the Super Hornet but didn't think to implement on the re-re Hornet or Hopper) But also, I said "years of fan creations" and that "I doubt PEOPLE will get the credit THEY are due" I wasn't trying to imply Ampro was the first or only person to heavily modify a Hornet.
  14. Having some wheel frustration with my Nikko project! I love the original wheels but the rims and tyres are a bespoke design with asymmetric bead sizes, so no normal tyre will fit. Also, without being reduced in a lathe slightly, the stock outer drive cup things won't work with proper bearings. This is all solved by fitting TL-01 type cups/stub axles, but finding appropriate wheels is turning out be a bit tricky! I got a set of these, and the tyres are just the right diameter, but sadly the offset of the wheels is no good. It makes the track much narrower the the tyre hits the front motor when a lot of steering is applied. It's a real shame, because I've really fallen for the look of the rims, and they look great on the Nikko. As you can see, the offset is vastly different to the stock wheels: I could fix it with hex extenders, but not sure I want to go down that route. The Cen ME16/Mini Madness type rims I mentioned before DO fit and do clear the motor, but the track is still significantly less wide, so not ideal, although it is an option. I only have white ones, but I can get hold of silver rims and use the above tyres on them, so that's one avenue. The best wheels I have in my possession, are the wild dagger/mad bison style ones, but I'm not sold on the style of them, I either wanted something quite spokey like the original, or with large round holes like the Cen wheels (and like nikko wheels on some cousins of my project car) I know the wild dagger style wheels come in a few different colour options which would look better than white, but I'm still not sold on the style. Does anyone know of any other 2.2" wheels with heavy negative offset? I might make a thread about it, see if anyone has any ideas. It's a shame, because I really like the look of those black rims, now!
  15. For yesterday: I was checking out a few cheap brushed RC motors. I know a few of you guys have tried out those cheap rebuildable motors Goolrc/surpass/austar/Injora type ones, and found them to be fine, but often not as fast as you'd expect. I found some interesting results when I tested 6 of them. They are wall "Austar" branded. I had 2 each of 35T 27T and 21T I wasn't using a full battery or anything so the results aren't scientific but I found that: The 27T and 21T all had about the same RPM and the wire windings inside were the same thickness. Hard to not conclude they are the same motor. Very strange....almost seems deliberate, which I wouldn't put past them, but it also seems nonsensical, as other versions clearly have the appropriate internals... The 35T ones, for example, all had slightly narrow winding wire..as you'd expect...and slightly lower RPM than the 27ts....as you'd expect! Very interesting phenomenon! So from my limited experience, the 21T seem to always be 27T inside. But the 27T and 35T are both what they claim to be... I have some more 21t and 35t versions around the place somewhere, different branding and purchased in different years, so will be interesting to add them to the testing. I definitely recall the 21T ones not being quite as fast as I'd expected..... I haven't tried any other winds so far. It just seems odd to consistently mislabel the 21t ones, when they appear to be perfectly capable of producing at least some other specs as advertised. I did note with interest, though, that in the spec sheets given on some aliexpress listings, the 23T version shows as having a higher RPM than both the 21T and the 19T !? Is it a typo? A clue? What's going on, here? These motors also seem to be available under more prestigious brand names such as RC4WD and Eronix etc, but I'm guessing the quality control with those will be better, and they will be the actual stated specification. I also tested these cheap as chips sealed can motors. Both claimed to be 20T and while I can't get inside them easily, the wire inside did seem to be a little bit thicker, and they both ran significantly faster than the supposed 21T motors, so I think they are likely to be what they claim to be. Definitely a bargain. And while not rebuildable, would any of us really be rebuilding a £7 motor, anyway? So one that comes in at about £5 and will probably last several years if not decades of occasional use seems like a decent deal, to me.
  16. Great to see. Shame it's taken years of amazing fan creations, and I doubt people will officially get the credit they are due, so let's hear it for @Pintopower
  17. If it can handle a nice 2s brushless system around 3300KV I think that would be mission accomplished. No reason to doubt it would. DT02 and 03 can as well as most of the vintage 4WD buggies. It's not like you can't drive the original hornet and hopper on that kind of system, they are just a bit prone to randomly bouncing sideways and rolling over (apart from at the beach where I love using my hopper)
  18. That's how I'm trying to look at it. I always prefer enough travel for the chassis to bottom out, but given how light the front end is on these, even when the motor is on the front of the gearbox, I doubt it will cause too much trouble in normal use. I guess the shock towers are one of the easier things to rectify, anyway. Some people literally just bolt on a couple of bits of alloy over the stock ones plus there 3d printed options etc. Probably not that necessary in reality with the light front end. Having the rear end work properly is the most important thing. We shall see. I'm still impressed overall.
  19. This is my main concern at the moment. Between the stock towers, and the bracket to bodge the upper connection, and lower connection not being sunken through the arm, there looks to be precious little travel available. Going from a simple, single arm setup to a double wishbone style seems to yield less travel per same amount of shock movement, too, so I do wonder how it will work in reality. For all it's faults, the original style has plenty of articulation.
  20. Anyone else on Facebook and noticed how incapable people are of reading? ThAt'S it!?! SoMe NeW sTiCkErS?? PaSs
  21. I doubt the OG is going anywhere, so it's not like it's RIP to the classic version. The hopping obviously has a lot of charm, but it can get old sometimes, too. That's why I was so eager to put 4 link on the back of my Lunchbox. It might lack the crude charm of the original, but there's something incredibly satisfying about making it handle half decently, too. I get a real kick just out of watching slow motion videos of the rear end actually moving around. I love my Grasshopper (And Nikko F10 and other similar platforms) but sometimes, I do long for a combination of the looks but rear suspension that actually works and less of tendency to flip over. Can't even plant the throttle in a straight line with the hopper sometimes without the back end suddenly bouncing a few degrees off centre and sending the whole thing into a tumble, it's like it trips over it's own feet. I always felt one of the appeals of RC was to customise and modify stuff, too. Obviously from a pro racer's perspective, the idea of trying to make something like a Hornet perform better is an illogical exercise in futility, but it's not done out of logic.
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