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About SuperChamp82

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  1. I’d pretend to agree with her New orders won’t land for c. 5 days anyway + you can use the time to helpfully point out all the ways your wife can improve whatever she would otherwise be doing ... By day 4 she’ll suggest you order more 😇
  2. Has anyone ever found a decent source of D / UM1 display cells ? Ideally late 70s for the early 1:12 cars
  3. All my vintage NIB have each period hop up because that’s how I’ll eventually build them when I retire In the meantime, it’s a beautiful load of space (and cash) consumed without purpose 🙄 It’s then made worse by hunting down all the right period r/c sets ... which take up just as much space as the kits when NIB The vintage runners then have NIP spares (for stuff that always breaks) but given they only stretch their legs on dry days a few times a year that’s prob another 2 boxes of space that only makes sense in my head ... It took a frustrating Summer persevering with Iwata’s finest before admitting I’m truly talentless at wide cover paint - so no rattle can hoard ... - but my detail work will hopefully hold up as long as my eyes do 😂 As will the stash of perspex boxes hosting a rabbit warren of Tamiya / Games Workshop paint pots, brushes, tapes, thinners and Lord only knows how many other ‘good ideas’ at the time ... Brilliant question as ever @Saito2 👍
  4. Very true re 1:1 @Saito2 Never had similar luck 1:12 or 1:10 - largely because the ‘run’ size doesn’t scale + it’s ended up too large to flat out evenly w/o looking rubbish That said, I’m not great with paint + will watch this thread to see how pro’s might do better 👍
  5. Interesting question @Saito2 What about Diplos ? Brilliant idea for its time - but v expensive for modest performance improvement on all but properly prepared tracks
  6. @Tamiyabigstuff is spot on re the 959 being the first to include head lights in a kit - with a flasher unit available as a hop up @Grumpy pants is also right re the Hi Lux being the first to have a head light option You had to buy old Tamiya ‘grain of rice’ bulbs separately - they were in vintage red vacuum sealed packs for 2 back then - and wire a mini loom to the r/c battery yourself
  7. Are you going for a flat or gloss finish ? Or a clearer anodised / metallic ? @TurnipJF is spot on re the former - it’s hard + almost better to find a pro Amateur candy coat layering will work well with the latter Just seal the base with a flat veneer before candy then top with at least 3 coats of finish - hardening for a wk between each
  8. Great question @markbt73 The best part of Apollo 13 is Jim Lovell’s / Tom Hanks pithy summary about ‘bouncing around for 30 mins‘ but ending up back where they started with the same problems A lot of politicians (and people) might reflect on that right now ... You’ve also inspired me to see if I can build a vintage SRB from bits - so here we go ! 😬
  9. A dishwasher will heat bleach the rubber - which looks great with WD40 for a few months then collapses ... Agree with @Problemchild Ultrasonic cleaning with a delicate cocktail of astringents + emulsifiers Basically, low temperature / gentle degreasing - then a quick cool down + higher heat conditioning to absorb a new mix With a German finishing compound - whose name escapes me ... but is on here with a search - you’ll get a factory finish 👍
  10. Sounds like you’re UK / EU based ? If so, assuming you’re talking FM not cheap AM ? you’re going to find 40Mhz fickle these days - noting it’s still legal for UK land use but increasingly crowded by Emergency Service bands that you wouldn’t want to risk drifting into ... You also can’t swap crystals between 27 / 40 sets - but decent, vintage Futaba 27 sets crop up once every 6 months or so on eBay I may even have a NIB FP-2GS set you could persuade me to part with if it’s of interest 👍
  11. @scoobybooster has a point The 959 has a glass cannon body, confusing tobacco changes (Rothmans vs Racing), overly complex dampers (that leak), stressed rear suspension arms (that snap), a weaker prop shaft than the GrB, no centre diff (that bleeds power) and ‘wedged’ 1:12 scale issues pretty much everywhere else 🙄 If you then add brainless bling, you can cripple the drive even further with aftermarket aluminium in places transferring stress to parts that would normally never break - and therefore become hard / impossible to find if restoring ... Sound familiar ? Then consider this The 959 was light years ahead of its time in pure ambition No one dared anything close back then ABS 4WD monocoque chassis, Technigold power, double wishbones, oil dampers, fully ball raced and a stunningly detailed blow moulded body Then consider the box art - cut away detail in so many places ? Iconic livery bought at expensive cost ? The 1:1 car had just won the Dakar for goodness sake - after a mixed history to say the least ! If anything, Tamiya simply pushed to hard - maybe pushed by Porsche branding ? Let’s also not forget commoditised RC10s drained all the fun and innovation / creativity out of our hobby less than 2 years later ... and we never got anything anywhere near the 959 ever again So is @scoobybooster right - yes, he’s pretty much spot on Is the 959 an epic build and collectors dream - yes, because all of the above means few were made And hardly any now survive 😬
  12. Wow - 7 months of asking ! Last bump before TC fails me
  13. Bump - any ideas or leads much appreciated ?
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