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SuperChamp82

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  1. Extracts from the 1980 Guide Book attached - lots of tyre options back then 👍
  2. Completely agree @KEV THE REV And @Hibernaculum thoughts in other threads nails the impossibility of reliable Mks in anything before Tamiya moved factories in 87 ... and even then 🙄 The short answer is I’ve never seen a NIB (or new built) Ranger with early SRB features - largely because by its release in 81 even Tamiya had likely emptied the tanks of first run / 78 parts ... That doesn’t mean there isn’t one though - because the SuperChamp a year later still has proven NIB oddities with pics on here if you search What’s flawed is any pre-87 restoration aimed at a specific Mk - again, because interchangeability of parts (with manuals that weren’t reprinted to align) makes Mk or version a personal preference vs collectible authenticity So feel free to go with whatever you like / will admire @junkmunki 👍 The rest of this debate will rumble on until someone inevitably finds a NIB, unscathed Ranger ... with screw anchoring front uprights under a pristine blister 😂
  3. Thanks guys - really interesting Agree the 30th Ed is likely a must in ‘The Set’ - but fascinated the consensus seems to include its 10 year / 40th Ed sibling ? Esp given the stupid wheelbase issue everyone rightly complains about and, for me, an underwhelming spec even for affordable money ? Also surprised there little love for the Black GT01 Ed - as for me it’s the only pearl in a sea of Black re re opportunism ? Not sure about the TamTech - I agree the body looks spot on but the innards hold little excitement ? And driving them always feels like a toy - but that’s possibly unfair given their scale / price / goal Finally, epic work @Shodog - that 40th car is incredible sir 👍
  4. Yes @Busdriver The YR kit is very good value and amazingly well designed. Included it in a similar MF01x rally build about 3 years ago - plus every sensible hop up - and the weight ended up needing a lot of power ... which, in use, was then too much for the remaining plastic. If you’re going to mooch around a flat, benign, dirt track with a bit of wheel spin this will be a hugely rewarding project sir. If - like me - you want to recreate 70s rally jumps and a little drifting then you’re much better starting somewhere else. PS The chassis can be built w/o spacers - which to be fair will make it stronger 👍
  5. There are two types of Tamiya decal glue One is a v light adhesive / softener that straightens out wrinkled decals a treat - whether still on their old sheet or rising with desiccation after being placed The second is a thicker / firmer lacquer type adhesive that can either be used incredibly sparingly to reattach rising decals (because you’ll otherwise leave a tiny bump) or thinned to ‘seal coat’ when back in situ Both are cheap + work way better than anything else I’ve found Although to be fair you never get the problem if you properly clear coat final shells in the first place 😂
  6. Very true the Acoms AP427 sets - the AS3 was the flipped servo I thought the Futaba FP T3GS had servo reverse ? it definitely came with three unbadged, black S18 servos
  7. +1 on high torque servos Although the issue only raises its head when you put them in places outside their normal ESC / battery combo Crawlers etc therefore should be fine Hopped up racers with overweight on the front wheels for grip on the other hand ...
  8. Spare bodyset kindly sorted by @JHuff Still after a NIB kit guys Any help much appreciated
  9. Spot on all round - and worth a separate thread @Alwb68 I came to the sad conclusion that Tamiya hasn’t (and won’t) engage with us atm for the same reason a bath plug doesn’t like water ? Where things can only go one way unless the taps are on ... And if comedy re re is the extent of fresh water / thinking then Tamiya are a rapidly draining reservoir vs ocean of new ideas ? Personally, I hope 3D printing / Incredible new polymers bail them (and us) out - so epic design resurfaces ... and it liberates previously unyielding stress points 😬 Either way - Tamiya not engaging with however many of us really care about them on here is a v good question sir
  10. Agree with @mongoose1983 Although the Futaba FP T3GS was cheaper back then - and there was no period switch set to turn vintage ‘grain of rice bulbs’ on / off with a fourth channel They came straight off the r/c battery The Acoms AP427 was also cheaper if you’re EU / 27 Mhz Both Futaba’s were better though 👍
  11. Great question @Saito2 Differentiating the first 50 or so vintage kits into a reliable Mk1, 2, 3 etc is another best put to bed And fwiw @Hibernaculum and @Mokei Kagaku have pretty much proved it’s equivocally flawed Shades of window glass in the first 3 Porsche’s ? Discontinued vintage box art paint ? And was it right anyway ?! Def motor gearing + suspension tuning Which plastic part breaks first ... 😂
  12. Hang on - Thorp and MIP made great SRB diffs before then ?
  13. Does anyone know / remember what r/c model numbers or brands Futaba released from 1995 - 2000 ? I’m trying to run old kits and cars with period correct gear and had drifted out of the hobby back then. Thanks in advance, SC PS A spot of digging around suggests the Attack SR (2VR) and Magnum Junior (2PCKA) we’re both around ?
  14. Still no joy gents - any leads / suggestions welcome ?
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