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SuperChamp82

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  1. The M38 servo saver is a close second Good question re hard to find bits but it’s maybe better anchored in price ? Lots of stuff often felt legitimately impossible to find 20 years ago - because we were all still anchored in hobby shops, networks and clubs These days we can pretty much get whatever we want online ... and often with only a minor wait - it just costs whatever the seller thinks you’ll pay 🙄
  2. @WillyChang is spot on A modern Sport or Torque Tuned will only fit a vintage Scorcher if you file down the two lugs inside the half of the gearbox holding the gears and take the sticker off the motor as the aperture is otherwise too tight No big deal (and easy to do tbh) but won’t keep it 100% original An old 540SD - Sprint or Endurance - was the period hop up
  3. Agree with @WillyChang Futaba also rebranded through distributors as Ripmax in the UK, Robbe across Europe and Redipak in South Africa - before building early Tamiya own brand AdSpec. I think the FP2G rx shipped with a number of early Futaba sets - starting with the black plastic, twin gimble FP2G (with s18 servos) then the brown plastic tx (with S20 black top servos) in the first FP2GS sets. The FP2GS then moved to a later black plastic tx combo and - to muddy waters even further ... - a lot of later FP2F wheelie sets shipped with an FP2G rx - and only the earliest have the original FP2F rx, some the FP2E. Futaba were far less linear (or organised ...) than Acoms and Sanwa back then 😂
  4. A few threads have combined our love of old box art and blister packaging but I can’t find any bringing together what must be years of experience restoring vintage boxes and inserts ? So - what are your tips for cleaning old cardboard + repairing rips, cracks, tears, punctures and splitting ? And do you treat inserts differently ? What about opened blisters - do you leave in situ, throw away or store separately ? Look forward to a variety of views 😂
  5. Hmmm - I think the original question was best motor but TC enthusiasm has clearly done its thing Street, beach or garden fun will surely lead you to quality OEM options pre 86 ? Early Kyosho Le Mans, Tamiya 540SDs and their Technigold - which was over priced but superb for its day. Track classes also had no global consistency before I first left the hobby in 86 - so we can play shops with motor class date, time, region for a very long time indeed ... Fully accept a plethora of new stuff quickly availed in the late 80s btw - and will leave others better placed to comment
  6. A better question may be why you’re asking ? Why wouldn’t you build this ? If it’s a value / investment thing you’ve got one thread ? Or nervous nostalgia will lead you down another ? To help with an answer, my NIBs safeguard my marriage when I finally retire - because whatever I spend now (to build then) is way cheaper than divorce 😂 So building early would be bonkers - but one or two will slip the net regardless ... Why ? Because it’s fun !
  7. This stuff has never let me down: https://www.diy.com/departments/de-solv-it-graffiti-remover-0-2l/258775_BQ.prd Just agitate with soft wire brushes to get into gaps etc.
  8. Def not a Ford man but agree re classic cars + shared values If you’re in here because you love / need a hobby, r/c should cost you way less than, say, a decent golf club in annual fees And poor r/c deals (or mistakes) are no diff than a bad 18 holes - where you don’t get your green fee back if you’re rubbish right ? If you’re in here to turn a quick buck - good luck ... and many (not me) will be less than friendly because you drive up prices - whether bits or kits - for enthusiasts Personally, I see speculators as drivers of re re - which just offers new parts for my vintage runners ... and won’t impact my 70s / 80s NIB because I intend to build the lot when I retire ! Finally, if you’re in here because you know everyone has to have some mental ‘me’ time - whether that means going back to your childhood, having fun with your kids or planning your retirement - then that’s the best investment you can make in my book !
  9. Interesting thread Am I wrong in thinking anything pre 86 were largely timing qweens ? Or did the aftermarket manage to beat a Technigold / Le Mans 240S ? Fully accept clever speed controls and internal trickery changes things 87+
  10. @TurnipJF and @Galaxy76 are spot on re material properties The issue is that math largely comes from aerospace cutting tools - which are incisive and heavy duty Similar rates for r/c ball bearings will be minuscule by comparison - there’s no real weight / pressure even on a tiny, high rpm surface - and ceramic bearings will easily outlive the rest of the diff / car Adding weight with tungsten is like having diamond crowns on your teeth 😂
  11. Best summary in a long time @Baddon I run / rotate boxed-built 76 to 86 ... then got into similar vintage NIB - with every period hop up + r/c - to rebuild my childhood when I retire in a few years time And it’s better that than my will (or lawyers) telling my wife exactly what I’ve spent (and accumulated) over the years ... Sheds or attics gentlemen - we know our place 😂 That - plus golf, skiing and rugby - is the only way she’ll not accelerate my vow until death us do part ... PS Vinyl - don’t get me started @graemevw
  12. Suspect the answer depends on era Mid 80s and Kyosho‘s Le Mans series were v hard to beat The 240S in old Optimas was epic - and later variants tweaked a classic Tamiya Technigold came a close second - with more punch but less top end - and later Pink Acto a bruiser Beyond that a load of US origin, timing qweens made sensible comparison almost impossible + I left the hobby for nearly 30 years 🙄
  13. Agree with @WillyChang A Lexan body / see through Technical Lego chassis would work but a Lego body is too heavy Do US guys remember Meccano ?
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