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SuperChamp82

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About SuperChamp82

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  1. +1 to most of the above but moulding has also changed massively over the years. Numbers vary depending on industry / application but the general rule of thumb is c. 750 new moulding materials emerge every year - and some are v clever (with different fluidity / material thickness vs pressure applied) allowing tensile strength in thin areas when done properly. No one really knows how Tamiya mould things in Japan or the Philippines - but I’d be stunned if the cost savings inherent in new techniques haven’t been taken on board ? Especially in lexan. And, if so, it would add to other unit production costs mentioned above - reinforcing all that’s already been said about the economics short production runs. Whether laser scanning moulds to create reliable CDM data and commercial 3D printing both become cheap + good enough to help is a completely separate question ... although fwiw I suspect they will provided Tamiya don’t bore loyal volume to death !
  2. Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere - please just point me in the right direction - but what’s the best way to paint a Tamiya Works / MS colour scheme ? So which PS paints, how best to mask and the best decals ? I’m strictly a rattle can amateur to help gauge tips 😂 Thanks in advance, SC
  3. If Tamiya are about to delve back into 70s / 80s rally cars then I may become very poor rather quickly 😂 My only question is why the MF01X rather than the better XV01 ? Possibly kept it cheap to test interest ? but they ought to know their market by now !
  4. If you’ve really a race track finish in terms of new asphalt then you’re right making the most of it whilst it lasts with on road fun 10 x 20 isn’t a massive space but more than enough to practice fast cornering between short sprints and reducing lap times - which, in terms of driver talent, makes up by far the most time saved on pretty much any decent track If I had that space - and a modicum of cash - I’d go for any decent TRF TA chassis with the option to adjust and drift ? And a TA03R-S TRF possibly pegging out as the best value / options ? Followed closely by various TRF TA05 siblings ? Also a spot of history - noting the TA03s / David Jun fed the TRF404x, 414 etc and ultimately Worlds wins 😬 PS Completely agree with @Carmine A - if I ever dabble with trucks it’s a Snowman all the way !
  5. UK based Saved up so cash waiting Must be NIB otherwise any condition considered - its a future build not collecting hoard Also happy to look at the 58243 kit w/o the 49126 body for the right price 👍
  6. Rubberised CA glue works best for me Like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/262680367018
  7. +1 on prompt but expensive - and bulking buys Also great for modest load bearing / working parts - never had one break yet Main issue is they’re a pita for big body pieces or wheels Their printing method is high volume / basic - and leaves a highly granular surface that (for large, visible items) is an utter nightmare to sand back to anything resembling factory ... especially small / curved areas like wheel rims or spokes Its also highly (and often unevenly) porous - so drinks layers of primer and (again) leaves a contoured not flat surface you have to spend an eternity sanding back Probably ok for small, flat body parts though - but been too irritated by others to try 😂
  8. +1 for RM / ParcelForce in the UK Need to watch their insurance limits - and it’s expensive to increase - but still the most reliable / least likely to damage RC eBay international shipping is convenient but hugely expensive - esp if buyers don’t realise eBay build import fees etc into the price + take their margin on the lot ... Again, RM / ParecelForce use their local counterparts for international post - and are a close second in ease of use / sorting any issues out The main benefit with eBay international shipping is they’ll ultimately make sellers whole for their fees etc if it all goes wrong Buyers don’t get any more than they’d get anyway - which is why it’s still a turn off ...
  9. An old pal will celebrate a big birthday next month + I’d like to send him a Tamiya parcel to build with his son - the Audi Quattro 58667 kit. He’s based in Singapore atm (vs me being in the UK) and I wondered if anyone knew a good local hobby store I could buy through to save postage + customs fees ? Many thanks in advance 👍 SC
  10. FP2GS receivers normally drove FP-S33 servos - although my eyes aren’t quite good enough to make out that detail from your pics ? If they are S33s that puts your set at the later end of the FP2F run so around 1983 / 84 - which pretty much matches shipping of the original M38 LWB 👍
  11. That’s a v rare late 70s speed control - originally built for large scale boats that needed twin props / two synchronised motors The amp rating gives away the heavier load 👍 Lord only knows what it was doing on the back of an M38 - it’s doesn’t need more weight to wheelie !!
  12. The vintage FP-2F wheelie set is frankly superb - being way ahead of its time in terms of functionality with classic Futaba quality ... both of which meant it was produced for longer than just about any other early Futaba set before the Attack range. Best guess - late 1977 to mid 1984 ? Yours is a later model - noting the battery power indicator changed from a solid blue band to the colour coded version around 1979, with its precise date better anchored in the accompanying RX and servos ... both of which kept pace with later models whilst the TX looked largely the same 👍 Lovely score sir !
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