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Everything posted by lsear2905

  1. I would recommend setting up an EBay alert, with a few pertinent keywords. I love all things Kumamon, for the benefit of the Kumamoto prefecture! I bought a spare Tamiya Kumamon figure to put in my Kyosho Trail King, but couldn't bring myself to modify him to fit. I've recently looked into 3D printing one to fit!
  2. A new set of body posts for a Tamiya are generally a fraction of the cost of a new body, and easy enough to swap over. It's especially galling if it's on a "shelf queen" as they are so unattractive. Long aerial tubes are fine - especially on older models though that would've had 27Mhz radios.
  3. FWIW, I never said "better," I said "more accurate and detailed than the RC equivalent." The point I was making was an objective one without offering my opinion either way. ** Can I suggest a topic for 'Vent #3'? Body posts, and why people insist on keeping them absurdly long, ruining the look of their cars?
  4. I think this is why I don't understand the concept of a "shelf queen." Static models made by Tamiya, Aoshima, etc are so much more accurate and detailed than the RC equivalent, I don't get why you'd prefer to have something that's more expensive and complicated, but with less detail. I don't care what other people do with their cars or trucks, motors or batteries, as long as they're not shouting their opinions and declaring themselves to be the only true and correct ones.
  5. Proline Powerstrokes are beautifully smooth, but more importantly dual stage so they soak up little bumps but also massive jumps. The danger of getting them is that afterwards you'll want them on all your trucks!
  6. Love the paint job, and great photos! *** Stampede 4x4 is a great truck - but I do have some suggested upgrades... Firstly you can easily lower the body, and it costs nothing to do, too! Just trim down the bottom section of the actual posts (you'll just need shorter screws to mount them again). I had the VXL version, so it'll be interesting to see what pinion you end up with - I think I ran a 13T to keep checks in temp running a 2S LiPo. Honestly the 2 best upgrades are better tires (terrain specific) and Proline Powerstroke shocks, but both options can get very expensive! A cheap upgrade is a tube of Shoe-Goo and some "drywall" tape to reinforce the body, especially around the holes in the rear deck - that always splits very quickly!
  7. @Robert5000 Stunning scenery - is this Bekkelagsterrassen? I had to Google to find that island dock in the background - totally worth it! @Ferruz I'm so glad to see you enjoying your RC10 - these are designed to be driven, and not just assembled and admired. @nel33 your Slash is looking great, and I notice your collection is expanding rapidly considering your early concerns about space ;-) Also, and I'm not looking at anyone in particular, but there are some serious body posts going on in so many posts here recently... did I miss the memo? It hurts my delicate eyeballs! So I haven't had too many RC adventures lately (except boats), but I did take the Kyosho Mini Z to Rickett's Point marine sanctuary last week (and then flew the DJI Spark around, too). I could have driven around for hours without doing the same lines twice, but I want to stay married so I didn't push my luck!
  8. @J@mes - it's not ideal, but it did hold up for ages... at least until you can buy a new chassis (perhaps get a clear one?). I ran the Konghead and (coincidentally) the Dump Truck on Sunday afternoon, but no RC since unfortunately.
  9. I did buy bumpers from @berman but those **** screws (and that bit they screw in to) are definitely a weak point. I still run a smaller bumper on the Konghead but on my Dump truck the aluminium skid is brilliant... it doesn't stick out further than the body though if that's what you're worried about.
  10. This is a part that will keep snapping - before you start using your new one reinforce it with copious amounts of hot glue gun glue around the entire thing. Then, when it breaks again just buy part #54796 - a much stronger piece.
  11. @Willy iine I must admit I've been admiring every Willy you've been showing us, but I'm curious: what is special about the one that's in the glass case, vs the rest of the collection? My RC'ing has been pretty quiet since the Easter long weekend - with the end of daylight savings it's dark when I get home, I lost my RDO because of the Easter Monday public holiday and then it rained, hailed and was just generally miserable on Sunday. I did run some boats (they don't care if it's raining) but I doubt I'll see some wheel time for a few days... ** On another note, I have a Dump Truck (GF01 chassis, but heavy, hard plastic body) and a Konghead (G601 chassis, but light, lexan body). Would I benefit from having a GF01 Landcruiser as well? Is it a substantially different driving experience or just more of the same? I'm thinking it'll drive pretty similarly to my Lunchbox. But I really like the look of it...
  12. I (finally) installed lights in the Lunchbox on Monday (first 2 photos), but finally gave it a good run last night - it couldn't have been a more perfect evening for it! It was really interesting how the phone's camera would adjust the white balance, giving different colouring to each photo (none of these have been adjusted/'shopped).
  13. Didn't you know that's why they put stickers in the box? No-one's paint job is perfect!
  14. I think this is a very astute observation - as a model on a shelf they're not as nice to look at as a proper, detailed, scale model. As an 'RC' they can, understandably, have less detail and show wear. I feel like building, and subsequently driving that RC (even if only sporadically), creates more of a sentimental attachment to that RC, a kind of 'shared experience.' The cars I run the most, and give me the most enjoyment, are the ones I value the most, even if they're not worth the most on eBay!
  15. I've noticed a lot of you talk about not having cars in a running condition, and I was curious why? Is it a lack of availability of spares? A lack of time? The cost? Shelf-queens? Everyone enjoys this hobby in different ways, and all those ways are of equal value, but it seems odd to me to have a remote-control vehicle that cannot be run? As soon as one of my vehicles is out of action, I become single-minded in the pursuit of rectifying the issue!
  16. I know my Traxxas radio can remember up to 30 models, but I generally have each controller for a few cars (I have a system, it works for me). I've always thought the moment I invest in one of those big fancy ones with a colour screen I'd probably drop it, and it'd get heavy after a while, too. Plus, I really can't be bothered replacing over 30 receivers!
  17. I think it's because of the HCG chassis, but I would remove them. Looks good so far. I haven't Tamiya'd in the last few days, but the Bandit, Mini Z 4x4 and some boats have all been run. I finally got the 2 heatsinks for the Trail King last night and they'd been misshaped in transit, so they were bent back into shape and fitted.
  18. You say "hide," I say protects... If I'm driving it I'd want those bumpers, but they can easily be removed for shelf queen duty.
  19. I would like all kits to come with the appropriate engine position and driven wheels if they are based on an actual car. Obviously things like Kongheads, buggies, etc, are exempt from this rule! They are primarily a model company after all.
  20. Last night I tested the lights I rigged up on the Bandit - terrible photos, but you get the idea. The red lights are brilliant though - they illuminate the roost as I'm drifting around in the dirt! This morning I posted the Valvyrn - AUD$36?! I'm going to have to start charging way more for postage... or use someone other than Australia Post.
  21. The only Traxxas that needs it's aerial to protrude from the body is the Bandit. So yes, a shorter tube will definitely suffice - just don't fold/bend/damage the tip of the aerial.
  22. The aerial shouldn't be going that high - the new Slash has a 2.4Ghz radio, which means that as long as you have about 3 inches sticking out of the chassis, that's plenty. From https://traxxas.com/sites/default/files/58034-1-OM-EN-R04.pdf, page 17: "SETTING UP THE ANTENNA The receiver antenna and antenna tube must be properly installed before operating your model. Follow these steps to install the antenna and antenna tube: 1. Slide the antenna wire into the antenna tube to its full extent. When fully inserted, the wire should reach to approximately 1/2 inch below the tube cap. Do not leave any slack in the antenna wire. 2. Insert the base of the antenna tube into the antenna post. Take care not to crimp the antenna wire. 3. Slide the crimp nut over the antenna tube and screw it onto the antenna post. 4. Use the supplied tool to tighten the crimp nut on the post just until the antenna tube is securely in place. Do not overtighten or crush the antenna wire against the chassis. Do not bend or kink the antenna wire! Do not shorten the antenna tube. See the sidebar for more information." It should look like this:
  23. Sunday: Plenty of boating in the morning, not much in the afternoon, just some mirco crawling on my outside track. Monday: Ran the Summit, Konghead, Dump Truck and B5 over at my off-road track, then added lights to my (brushed) Bandit for some more evening off-road fun. Sold the Proboat Valvryn, too.
  24. So before the work was done I had it dyno'd to find out what power it had after 15 years and 113,000kms, and re-dyno'd after the work, too. So for the sake of the following numbers I'm assuming a 15% drivetrain loss on the dyno from flywheel to "at the wheels": Stock (claimed): 125kw (167hp) Dyno run (pre-work): 124kw (166hp) (105kw at the wheels) Dyno run (now): 143kw (192hp) (122kw at the wheels) I'm exceedingly happy with those results! Also, I gained an extra 46Nm of torque (34ft lb). I also had to rebuild the entire electrics in my Spartan - when the ESC went bang! a month ago it took the receiver and servo with it.. so it's ready to run on Sunday now. We have a public holiday on Monday so I may get a bit more RC'ing in over the 2 days (I work Saturday, so "long" weekend = 2 whole days).
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