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Bwaaatch

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  1. Oh dear.... that’s a fun idea as well... is FOUR comical buggies in one house wrong? If I have four, then I’m thinking they should all be the same spec for fairer racing. So perhaps I needs six .... 4 regular 1 low 1 high .... and maybe one or two for the shelf??? good luck with your build @•Axle. Keep us posted. you’ll probably hit the same issue as me re: longer turnbuckles. I’m weighing up options, but they are crazy expensive for such a tiny bit of metal, esp with international postage on top. anyone got a good supplier for shortish turnbuckles in the UK? I feel I need a few to try things out. 20, 22, 24, 26mm in length. You never know how far on the end caps will twist, right?
  2. Progress … Went with the QUTUS shocks, and went for the shortest pistons. Assembly was interesting (and tricky), but I have to say I couldn't quite figure out how the 'adjustable' system works. At this extremely low height, the 18mm turnbuckles from the yeah-racing hop-up kit are barely long enough to stay attached – the ball cups are clinging on by a mm or two. Will get longer ones for proper running. Cat is higher because of oversize wheels compared to the white comparison care (which is stock). I'm about 20mm between bottom of chassis and the road. I have the spring adjusters quite far down, so it full compresses the spring before it hits the full depth of the piston. As it stands, this stops the back wheels hitting the shell in the event of full compression. More to do, but I like it!
  3. Comical hornet to resemble mini 4wd racers box. Taking shape with ps-55 flat clear, inside and out.
  4. Hey hey! Like an idiot I cracked on before waiting for a reply! I only sprayed for about 4 seconds, but it was as you say. The paint particles are opaque, but thinly spread. So now I have a few white flecks. Not a disaster, but a warning for others
  5. Hit this guy with matt clear, inside, then out. Going for super cloudy. Thin coat of white inside, too????
  6. Painted some buggy ‘tube frame’ for my latest comical buggy concept. This one is going to be tightly based on the Tamiya Mini 4wd Racers Box, using the comical Hornet as a base. Lack of availability of PC brush paints means I’ve used standard acrylics on the Lexan. Very little flex here, as this won’t run much, and my test sample came out fine. With the paints I had, I couldn’t get it quite as vibrant as the source box (in background) but it’s close. Box show is actually and Auldey knock-off(?) Auldey made some of the better Mini4wd replicas in China in the 1990s. Always unclear to me whether they were officially licensed, but I got the impression that they were. Will end up with a blue interior and a Matt clear/cloudy shell.
  7. Shout out to http://speedrc.co.uk Use them for the first time last week and got super fast service, with some Yeah Racing shocks arriving within 48 hours of placing an order.
  8. I'd like some WR02-CB L/N and M parts in blue. The stock parts are black, and yellow-green parts are available as spares/hop-ups. But I want blue! What blue? Mini4wd Racers box Blue I wonder if anyone can suggest my best route to this? It would be for a car that largely sits on the shelf, but perhaps gets some light road running, so painting is an option. But I guess ideally I would dye the parts, at least to get myself into the realm of 'blue' so that any chips to a top coat of paint don't show so much. I have these parts in black, but don't mind buying the green ones if that's a better starting point. If I could dye myself the whole way there I'd be delighted.! I hear a lot about Rit dye on these forums, and i know that some parts dye better than other, depending on what they are made from (eg. nylon seems to dye well, right?) But the manual doesn't' tell me what the parts are made from. I also hear talk of priming and lots of fine grit paper and finishing with a top coat, more fine grit etc. If that's the route, could anyone link me to a good tutorial and materials list that has worked for them? Thanks! BTW, my plan is for a Comical Hornet that looks like a Mini4wd Racers Box :-) So I'd also be curious if anyone has experience of how to get a cloudy finish on the lexan (other than accidentally keeping the protective film on???).
  9. Yeah alright, alright… but you're not considering the girth … :-)
  10. Ooohhh, just discovered these Yeah Racing QUTUS shocks: http://speedrc.co.uk/yeah-racing-qutus-adjustable-50mm-damper-set-for-1-10-rc-touring-m-chassis-car-black/ They are 50mm or 52mm (two shatters included), big bore and adjustable without taking apart. I see a few references to them on tamiya club, but not many. Anyone got experience of these? They are mainly a touring car thing, i think.
  11. Thanks @No Slack, but looking at the photos it seems my shocks have a taller cylinder, too. Shape of cylinder head and adjuster collar different, too. I think maybe the design has changed over time, as their own website has some confusing listings.
  12. Yes, Shock Gear. I realised after taking these shots that you I was on the soft springs, so I have now set these to the stiffest ones. But yes, I did manage to build them with the one-hole piston heads. I'm starting to think I just need the set of shorter shocks. I have these 60mm ones: http://www.yeahracing.com/catalog/dsg0060bu-shockgear-60mm-damper-road-p-3469.html?cart_quantity=10 But they seem to come in 55mm: http://www.yeahracing.com/catalog/yeah-racing-shockgear-55mm-damper-touring-gunmetal-dsg0055gm-p-3335.html?cart_quantity=10 or even 50mm: http://www.yeahracing.com/catalog/yeah-racing-shockgear-50mm-damper-touring-gunmetal-dsg0050gm-p-3330.html?cart_quantity=10 Would 50mm be crazy? I'm tempted! Assume I'm making a stupid car that is a comical buggy for running on a track :-)
  13. Well, that worked, but it’s not as low or stiff as I would like. Progress though, and I feel like an idiot for not realising that collar adjustment was enough to change ride height.
  14. Thanks @Biz73, but I was thinking that if I went low I would need these collar low to keep the shocks stiff? So looking for other ways to lower. Bit willing to concede I might have this wrong!
  15. Inspired by @HondaHan's recent post here, I am looking at ways to lower my Comical Grasshopper. I'm after some advice about how to do this best. I won't be widening teh stance, as I have that covered with me wheels. I just need to go low. Pics show my current setup, which is base don the Yeah Racing WR02 hop-up arms and Shock Gear dampers (55mm version). The need to be lower comes partly from the huge silly tyres I'm using :-) Big wheels, slammed low is what I'm after! I figure If I drive on tarmac and with stiff shocks this should be OK. On the front, I think I have the optimum choice of holes to lower the ride height, but correct me if I'm wrong. On the rear, I have an issue. If I use what I think are the optimum holes (inner most at top, outermost at bottom) the shocks rub against the suspension mount at the top. This seems to be due to the fact that the yeah racing rear shock mount is about 5mm thick, and thus changes the angle of the real shock so that that slope backwards by about 5 degrees, instead of being pretty much vertical (when viewed from the side). As a result, the top of the shock is just too close to the shock tower when using teh inner most hole. This feels like a design flaw, unless I'm missing something? Is it possible to get a longer screw-in ball joint at the BOTTOM of the shock to move the back end 5mm further back to match? What other options are there? Second issue relates to the length of shock. I got the 55 mm version as they pretty much match the stock shocks, but I'm thinking perhaps the 55mm 'touring car' versions would be better? It is good practivce to lower a car by limiting the length of the shock? That feel like a hack to me, but perhaps it's normal? Could I go even shorter that 50mm shocks? Thirdly is just 'what am I missing? If people want a super low stance, what are the other options, and what other considerations showed I be thinking of? Thanks as ever. I'm always so impressed by the generosity of this community.
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