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Bwaaatch

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About Bwaaatch

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  1. I’ve had good result recently just using Tamiya acrylics for small areas like roll bars. They don’t really get a lot of movement, so little risk of cracking, and the paint adheres very well.
  2. This makes sense! So it's not really taking any load at all, just a simple dust shield. Suddenly I see this as elegant, rather than cheap …
  3. Dumb question: Comical WR02s come with a piece of cardboard sandwiched between the motor and the chassis, which the manual describes as the 'motor plate'. It feels so cheap, and does it really do anything? Can I discard it? Is there bette replacement other than the £35 Tamiya WR02 Motor Guard? Feels crazy to spend so much on a tasty new motor and connect it to the chassis via a piece of paper …
  4. He he! Let's bring the ruckus! NB, my wheels are pre-glued (but need balancing)
  5. Well OK then … Off I go, at my own risk :-) Really grateful for you checking in with your friend! When i have it running I'll post up a vid.
  6. That looks like loads of fun – and nicely handled on those drifts!
  7. OK, I hear the warning on combining the upgraded spur AND a 4000kv BL Combo. My use case is a simple one: Hooning it round on flat open spaces. Enjoying going really fast and getting some powerslides and drifts going without tipping over (pic shows how low and wide I've got it) No competition, though perhaps sharing the space with my other buggies in the hands of others. To that end, I'm super tempted to combine both options and consider it a community service to report back on! What do you think? Crazy good, or just crazy? And you mention a friend running 5000kv … given that my gap is quite limited in this setup … could I give that a whirl :-) I figure I've come this far, I might as well go nuts … Any other strengthening required if I go there? Won't hold you responsible for breakages, @•Axle :-)
  8. Love this. Makes me nervous that I might need to add a Comical Avante to my fleet, though
  9. Thanks again everyone! OK, for any easy life (and cos you guys seem to know stuff!) I am inclined to just combine advice from @ThunderDragonCy and @•Axle , so then I need: YR 34T spur: https://www.the-border.com/YEAH-RACING-Spur-Gear-For-Tamiya-Wild-Willy-WR02-34T-Motor-Gear-1pc-TAWR-009.html Tamiya 24t Pinion (running in the 20t position): https://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-24t-25t-pinion-gear-set/rc-car-products/1419 4000Kv Easy Run Brushless Combo: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-ezrun-combo-max10-3652sl-4000kv-brushless-motor/rc-car-products/420923 The description on the Easyrun says: "Battery Connector Type: No Connector" and there is no picture of the power input. If I plan to use my existing stock of standard Tamiya-compatible NIMH batteries, what do I need to connect this up? I guess I should keep LiPo open asn a option later to keep @Howards happy :-) So do I solder/attached a new Deans connector, then get an adpater for Tamiya? Does this plan sound like it might fly?
  10. Soooo … I have my buggy built and basic setup has: Trusty stock TBLE-02S Gool RC 21t brushed motor NIMH batteries The hop up pinion How does it run? NOT FAST ENOUGH! But it is super stable with those wide tyres an nailed stance. Predictably massive understeer issues :-) But this makes it impossible to flip over, so nothing like a regular WR02. So I'm back to picking a motor. I've realised that my priority really is to just make it go as fast as possible, using NIMH batteries. To this end, Ilm conscious of @ThunderDragonCy's warning that 13.5t brushless simply wasn't that quick. I have a regular comical with a Hobbywing 1060 and Gool RC 17T brushed – yeah, I read a lot of @ThunderDragonCy's posts :-) – and that goes very nicely … But what if I want more? Am I right in thinking there is no other gearing option here? It's just about delivering the most optimal level of power through the gears? Options: Try out a brushless option. Something like Speed Passion 13.5T?: https://modelhobby.co.uk/store/product/Speed-Passion-V30-Competition-BL-135T- Do I get more speed if I get a brushless combo and ditch the TBLE-02S? I'm totally out of my depth here, so any suggestions? Ditch the TBLE-02S, get another hobby wing 1060 and maybe a lower turn brushed option, like 13T? Cheers!
  11. Also, I just tried @Juls1's suggestion of spinning the fronts to see how they settle. Indeed, they come to a standstill, then roll back the other way, suggestion a heavy spot at a certain point. Off to watch a wheel balancing vid … https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RvJS13KsHtc Will report back! Don't have a stand, so will just do all four wheels off the from axle …
  12. Thanks for all the suggestions! I have shims on order. I replaced the YR universals at the back with the kit cups and dog bones, and this seems to have improved things. Perhaps the stock stock parts are a little longer? Following the suggestion from @Juls1, I had a look at teh tyres more carefully one of the readrs (on the side with most vibration) did seem a little worked when it span. Changed the left/right rear wheels and again saw a slight improvement. At this point, hopefully the shims can give me another small increment and I'll be happy :-)
  13. Oh yeah, Yeah Racing exhausts … brrrmmmmm
  14. Thanks @Badcrumble, yes there is some play at rest. The rear has a bit of 'up/down/left/right' play, and the front has loads of 'in/out'. How much of either of these kinds of play is desirable? I always assumed it served some function, as most cars seem to have a bit by default. Should I be aiming to tighten then down to zero, with shims like this?
  15. Finally got everything together to finish my slammed comical buggy build today. The concept is simple: get the chassis low, the stance wide and the tyres big – turning the Comical Hornet into something more like a street racer. Yes, I know it's ridiculous. The wheels and tyres are the third party 'Monster Beetle' items found all over eBay. They look good and feel good, but I think they are causing some problems … In testing the electrics before it's first run, it was clear that there was a lot of vibration in the rear wheels. When running, I could see vibration in the fronts, too. For the rears, it kicks in even at slows speed if i spin the wheels in mid air, and gets worse as I get faster. At the front, it's most notable as the car struggles for traction when turning full lock at max speed. I can see the wheels wobbling around alarmingly. I'm prepared to be told that this is not fixable, but merely the result of sticking a heavy, wide, large diameter rotating mass at the end of shafts that are not really designed to withstand such forces. but then how exactly does it work on a Monster Beetle, or other car designed for this kind of size of wheel? I'm hoping there might be something I can do to mitigate it. Any thoughts? The only thing I've tried is adding an extra o-ring in the cups at the back to cut down the play in the axles. It does sit down the play, but doesn't stop the vibration. The other possible cause (at least at the back) is the crazy suspension set up, with arms sitting super high to allow dropping the chassis despite the huge wheels. It means the drive shafts sit at about a 20 degree upward slop by default. Finally, I hear lots of talk of 'shimming' to solve vibrations and slackness. Sorry for being an idiot, but I'm not sure exactly what this means. Is a shim what an English person might call a 'washer'? Could I 'shim' either side of the wheel bearings to cut vibration? How would I do that? Thanks for your expertise as ever, TamiyaClub! PS, the setup does the trick in many ways. Drove around for 20 mins on tarmac and didn't come close to turning over. Tried my 'normal' (17t brushed) hornet afterwards and could not keep it upright for more than 15 seconds! It was a festival of grip roll.
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