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kitefighter

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Posts posted by kitefighter

  1. 15 hours ago, Blista said:

    Looks good!  I've got a Datsun body on my wishlist but I can't bring myself to put it on a front wheel drive chassis.

    One part I can recommend for the M07 is a plug for the pinion hole underneath the chassis.  Stops debris getting in there without needing the tape Tamiya suggest using.  Not such a big deal if you only race on carpet though.

    Thanks for your reply, and I understand your misgivings. I felt the same way, and was looking for a front mounted motor driving rear wheels chassis for a more authentic replica of the Datsun 510 but could find none with a 225mm wheelbase I looked at some of the midship and rear mounted chassis but felt they would be better suited to a sports car body, not a saloon / sedan car. All running models are a compromise in accuracy and scale in one way or another.

    Thank you for the tip about the plug in the pinion hole. What body did you used for your M-07 chassis?

    • Like 1
  2. Hello everybody.

    This is my first return to kit building an RC model since I was a teenager in the early 1980s. Building the Tamiya chassis and installing the electronics was the most wonderful experience.

    Trying the mate the body in alignment with the chassis didn't go well to begin with. In desperation, I joined this forum and gained invaluable advice from fellow modellers to whom I would owe a debt of gratitude.

    It was very interesting to see how different RC cars are today compared to when I last took an interest in the hobby. 

    The only downside for me, is that this was an expensive project and it will be a long time before I have the budget for a second model to keep this one company.

    More pictures here:

    The next project will be to re-assemble an original release Tamiya Toyota H-Lux, complete with all parts including massive N-Cad Battery, Accoms 3 channel transmitter and shift gate for the three speed gearbox.

    All comments welcome. Thanks for looking.

     

    Datsun 1.jpg

    Datsun 2.jpg

    Datsun 3.jpg

    Datsun 4.jpg

    • Like 20
  3. Good news!

    Using my wife's hair straightener's I managed to bend and adjust the mounting posts to bring the body back a little and onto the correct position on the chassis. I then lowered the body and now it steers and runs correctly. On the raised platform at least. Still a little more fettle to do and it will should be okay. Many thanks for all your suggestions and support!

    Datsun 510.jpg

    Hair Straighteners.jpg

    • Like 2
  4. Hello again and thank you for the suggestions. 

    The problem with magnetic mounts is that I have already cut holes into the body for posts. 

    The solution I think is best would be to somehow bend the mounting posts into the correct position for the body in alignment with the chassis.

    The difficulty is, how to bend the plastic mounting posts.

    If only there was some sort of adjustable elbow I could fit the mounting posts into.

    Any ideas?

     

     

  5. 5 hours ago, Jason1145 said:

    Yeah when working on these M chassis cars it becomes even more important to get those body posts lines up correctly as there is so little room for error.

    I now have a BMW 2002 shell that is off Centre on a M03 too :(

    For your issue ( and if I eve revisit my bodged shell too) rather than hack that gorgeous bodyshells wheel arches ( which will stick out like a sore thumb to your knowing eye) I would look to adjust the body post holes into their correct locations with a combo of either shoe goo, New lexan off cuts or lexancircular body post hole protectors.

    Somehow filling in the wrong post holes with the above and starting again.

    I know the end result might not not perfect around the post holes but it might be the lesser of two evils.

     

    Thanks for advice about not cutting the wheel arches. How did you resolve the issues with your BMW body? Can you post pictures?

  6. 8 hours ago, WillyChang said:

    HPI mini wheels are same std size as Tamiya, no help there. They do a proprietary MX60 wheel size too, but that's larger than mini so won't help either.

    Shell needs to go rearwards a bit... slot the body holes or bend the posts with some heat maybe.

    Is that for racing or just casual/display? If not track running... you can afford to remove some rear toe-in, remove the spacing washers on the arm mounts (which angle the arms forwards). Rear tyres should move back 2-3mm I'd guess.

     

    Thanks for the advice about the HPI wheels being the same size as the Tamiya wheels.

    Your suggestion of trying to bend the body mounts is a great idea that doesn't require further tampering with the body. 

    The mounts only need to be adjusted a little bit to bring the body back into alignment as you say. 

    The body mounts are very hard plastic and I will have to heat them somehow to bend them. Or I could cut them and then fix them within a metal tube (like a bicycle frame). 

    Someone must have done this before.

  7. This is embarrassing.

    I just finished building a Tamiya M-07 Chassis to 225mm wheelbase option. So far, so good. Then I tried to mount a HPI Datsun 510 body on top. And that's where the problems began.

    I've somehow managed to mis-align the holes on the body to the mounting posts on the chassis. (Please see attached picture). The result is that on right turns, the wheel front nearside wheel touches and distorts the body. I really screwed up and feel lousy after all the excitement of returning to RC models for the first time since I was a boy.

    A possible solution might be to fit HPI cup racer wheels and slick tyres as they might be a smaller diameter. Which would be a shame because I'm over-budget on this project and rather liked the higher profile Tamiya tyres.

    The more drastic solution would be to cut a larger apeture on the wheel arches, but I'm not confident I'd mess that up.

    Any help or ideas and share experiences would be welcome.

    Thanks in advance.

    Tamiya M-07 Chassis with HPI body.jpg

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