Monouchi

Thanks. Yeah, no racing with the original body.

lowered price.

Well done Sir.

Same as the RC car on the right but two years older.

The Rims are from pargu-store, they can also be found on ebay.

Yes, more punch from a 7.2v 3000mah.

I have a new LF1100 + new charger for sale in the Trading section.(Bought from japan.) The LF1100 gave me good speed and time. later I remodeled my SS to fit my Nimh packs, (3000mah) these works well with the sport tuned motor and 105 esc...BUT I get overheating. Will try this weekend to go with the lower gear ratio and see if that helps. the two batteries you linked will work well (If you dont get overheating like me?), the overlander will fit easily, the wheelspin will need some modification of the placement of parts inside the box.

le bump

The ball-diff was a success. Now the scorcher feels really solid in racing. I put a lot of screw-lock on the diff-bolt and after some races it still hasnt moved. So, finished with all my cars with this hobby-revival, time for some racing with my boys.

Yes, 65usd shipped worldwide.

Yeah, its a crazy good price as I bought it for three times my selling price just a feew weeks ago. Hope its still here when you are settled but its first come first served. Edit: Also, if you buy it I can hold on to shipping it until you are settled down again.

Bump

Bump, $40 shipped worldwide

Bump, $65 shipped worldwide.

Wanted to try the diff so got one of those ball diffs. Any tips when putting this together? How hard should I tighten it? Add screw lock?

Parts I dont need after my build. The radio box got a drilled hole and the exhaust is painted. The rim covers are from Pargus shop. $40 shipped worldwide SOLD

Paypal is ok, I can do $65 posted.

Sure, shipping would be about $19.

Lowered to $50

I also re-decorated the electronics layout to be able to fit my Nimhs. (I wanted to use the same type of battery for all my cars for easy swap between.) I made a foam pillow-box for battery protection, moved the ESC to one side and the reciever to the other side. I put a strap holder on the bottom so the battery strap is attached to the box. Works great and the car got a better weight distribution. (Bonus with the steering servo mounted up front.)

Ok, time to "kill your darlings" as they say. The radio box had to go, so I removed it and created a lid for the box that bolts right on just like the radio box did. I put the servo directly on the chassis with mounting tape and put the servo cable through the whole where the original long steering rod used to be. I also added a rubber seal. No bump steering at all and it has maximum steering length with saver, the important electronic parts are still sealed in the box. (The servo can take some water splashes and its cheap/easy to replace. Its not like I am going to drive it down into a lake.) Now the steering is good and its more fun to drive...though without Diff the inner tire struggles in sharp turns...hmm

Tamiya LF battery LF1100 6.6v. Tamiya LF Charger with manual and box. extra power plug for Euro socket. The battery and charger is like new, charged and raced once just for test. Working perfectly. $55 shipped worldwide. SOLD

Yep, some serious bump steer. I saw this mod when searching for Scorcher steering mods, so I did a quick test. The bump steer needs to be adressed so I plan to rotate the saver 180 and put the servo higher as to not hit the chassis plate.

I need to make my Scorcher run fast with good steering....cos this is whats hunting me: My two sons Kyosho Car crushers, full ball bearing and thorp equipped with Tamiya GT Tuned motors. :/

Ok, steering really had to change. I have the Tamiya tsu-03 servo. I cut off the mounts on the servo, drilled a 1cm diameter hole in the middle of the front box. Put double adhesive tape on the servo and put it against one side of the box, now the servo got centered in the car, I was about 1-2mm off but thats ok. Then I took a servo saver from the Kyosho car crushers, used the scorchers rods and ball-joints, reversed the ball-joints on the wheels steering arms and removed the scorchers original servo saver entirely. What a difference. I get max steering with about 1mm left before the tires hits the chassis. And no sign of over steering so I lock the servo up. Now it can turn.