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About Juls1

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  1. Will he still be doing it at 74 though? wait a minute, will I still be doing this at 74... will Tamiya still make rc in 36 years time?? Or will horizon hobby have fell over and Traxxas taken over the world?... questions, so many questions.
  2. I like rcmart over rcjaz, rcjaz the freight is normally more and they often don’t ship for 3-4 days. if I order regular from rcmart it’s usually shipped in 1-2 days and arrives in 10 days or so, if I order EMS, they usually ship same day and it arrives in 5 days or less. I cannot answer the question regarding value written on box as I always get it shipped with invoice which means it’s fully valued. If you ship without invoice maybe it’s different. I think as a rule they ship minus the invoice. for most of us the price isn’t really the issue (as the base price and freight is always competitive for what your ordering anyway) the issue is that they are the only place most of us can get Tamiya related items from reliably and quickly. In particularly parts. if that means you gotta pay some local tax then do be it. Fact is if your buying locally your paying that tax anyway. Juls
  3. First port of call then I would free up the rear diff and stiffen up the front diff, just like others suggested. You might like to try some better tires as well. if the car loops out more going one way than the other then your camber settings are all wrong left to right. Setup station should fix this.
  4. Yes you can do it with the TA03 front one way, just install it backwards. Can use same part TA01/2/3 TL01, MF01X, possibly others. I did it in a MF01X I converted to 190mm wide x 251mm for a 1/10 Porsche build.
  5. It’s worth remembering both cutoffs and alarms will be set off when the voltage “momentarily” drops below the threshold. If your over geared or have high current and it exceeds the capability (C rating) of your battery (or your pack has a dud cell or is old and tired, or you forgot to check the charge worked properly or charged it at all.) momentarily then potentially the low voltage alarm or cutoff can be triggered before your even half discharged. In reality this means either the voltage cutoff is too high (like 3.4-3.5v is still quite high as far as cutoffs go in terms of momentary load) or your battery is just not up to the job. Get a bigger better one.
  6. Your basically going to need to dial out the front grip, before you do any of that, you need to make sure you have perfectly equal left to right camber settings. This doesn’t mean having equal length turnbuckles, that makes an assumption everything on the car is 101% perfect to witching 0.01mm which it is not. A setup station is only about $100 and it’s a life long tool in this hobby and can be adapted to most 1/10 on and off road vehicles. What it does it allows you to get perfect camber settings. This is done with the car in the station fully loaded up (battery etc). up front less aggressive negative camber (so closer to neutral) is a good start, then firming you the front suspension to reduce roll up front. This can include fitting a stiff sway bar. In a rc car, in most situations a swaybay will typically remove grip. you probably want to remove too much body roll by limiting suspension travel either by shortening the shocks or limiting the droop. You might like a bit more travel/droop possible out back to try keep those back tires on the ground. you may want to consider moving to racing slicks that have temperature ratings, using a higher temp rating up front and a lower temp rating out back. What range of temperature you choose will depend entirely on the type of weather/conditions your playing in. the XV01 is a front weight bias vehicle much like most real cars, so managing that extra up front weight takes a little trial and error. It is a uncommon approach because rc cars that are mid motored are simply much easier to drive and therefore faster on the track. The drawback of mid motored rc cars is that they are much less dynamic and less rewarding to use, but front motored cars like the XV01 do need a little more understanding and work to get the most from them. IMO it’s well worth persisting, I have so much more fun with my xv01 than any of my TT,TB,TA chassis cars. (Exception my TA03F). there is people who can’t get along with the xv01 due to either lack of understanding about vehicle handling or just expecting it to jump/handle like a mid or rear engine chassis which it’ll never do. It is a more challenging chassis in every aspect no question. Juls
  7. Been using 2s lipo on tble-02s for as long as I can remember (probably 8+ years) never used a alarm, pretty much soon as the pack dumps you stop using it. You’ll only damage the pack if you keep driving once it slows down. This being said if your running a very light load (like a crawler motor) is suggest a alarm as you might not notice the pack dumps. I’ve run the cell checker over the pack several times after the dump and usually still see 3.4v+ it’s going under 3v per cell which you need to avoid. I’ll generally put it back on the charger soon as I get home bring it up to 3.8v min 4v max per cell then drop into storage box. All pretty straight forward simple stuff.
  8. Seems unlikely, I’m not really sure what Tamiya will do, but I guess there market research will decide, if they are not racing in off road so investment in technical racing off road vehicles makes no sense. We are all getting older now eventually the re release bubble will pop so in the short term it makes more sense to keep doing re re releases while the particular type of customers are still middle aged and somewhat cashed up. for the future though I’m not certain what they should be doing really. With horizon hobby basically slowly vaccuming up all American based hobby businesses with huge access to manufacturing in Asia, I don’t know where Tamiya will be in the distant future of rc.
  9. It is a SRB chassis, just a note with regards to value, the kit re released in 2009 and 2011 as the buggy champ, and has had regular production runs since and seems to be plenty of them still kicking about new in hobby stores to buy right now. yes it is a bit different but essentially the same vehicle, this being said, your model is unique as it wasn’t an exact re release, but it’s close enough to hurt the value significantly of your original, in addition your model wasn’t built like the box art which can further reduce the overall value. This being said the $200ish is probably the upper limit as mentioned above, but you never really know until you try to sell it I guess. https://tamiyabase.com/?option=com_joodb&view=article&joobase=21&id=8&Itemid=1063#models-with-srb-chassis
  10. Interesting your having trouble with too long driveshafts, I’m running yeah racing xv01 42mm units front and back on my TT02 type S. They are great fun cars. Not quite as great as a xv01 though.
  11. Any of the tractor trucks are long and involved, not particularly difficult but take a good 15-25 hours incl painting etc. for mid range difficulty some nice kits are CC02 or XV01.
  12. That’s the pro touring car version, has touring car reversable suspension off the TA05IFS/TB03/FF03/TT02S instead of the DB01/2 based off road suspension. it could be reverse built back to a off road version but it’s a bit of a job.
  13. As for ordering from rcmart I think they are probably the best in the business really, they probably have 10’s of thousands of my dollars by now. with regards to your customs fees, that really comes down to if it is valued correctly or not. Since we have a $1000 tax free threshold here in Australia I’ve never really paid any attention to what’s marked on the box and I avoid going over that amount per parcel. i know some of the HK sellers don’t mark the pricing correctly (mark it way way way down) I’d prefer if they didn’t do that as in Australia it’s an offense to receive a parcel that’s incorrectly valued. pay tax, pay a fine or get lucky I guess.
  14. 38mm seems to work better, my 39mm xv01 shafts didn’t fit inside the yeah racing wide arm kit on the FF02. Yeah racing spec 38mm for TL01/FF02/GF01.
  15. Have not seen them around for nearly a year, there isn’t a great deal of difference in the long damper to standard model. the shocks are mini CVA instead of super mini, which equals about 2mm shaft travel difference. And the towers are taller. Both parts can easily be bought aftermarket. I understand your preference for less cost and no body, but I fear that your just not gonna find one. Juls
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