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Juls1

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About Juls1

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  1. Generally a ball diff works better in low traction situations, where a gear diff is more useful in high traction situations. in many cases people run locked diffs on m03/5, this is why gear diffs with heavy oil are quite popular to those looking for the performance of a locked with somewhat less of a drawbacks.
  2. I can assure you it’s not a visual trick, the front wheels ended up being offset 10mm in opposite directions, pretty shocking. Parts where completely unusable. the modern yeah racing parts seem to be better, and for that matter the modern gpm parts are getting better too. But they still make all these inferior parts for older models. its a shame 3racing and yeah racing discontinue parts shortly after they make them.
  3. I’ve never had much issue with their knuckles/uprights, but the above gives you a idea of gpm quality on some Tamiya parts. This is a rcdamper/gpm DT03 part, the hinge pins should be straight or leaning in opposite directions. I got 2, both similar fault but not identical. Its worth checking whatever Gpm parts you buy to see they are correctly made and won’t adversely effect your cars handling before putting them into use.
  4. Just FYI the rcdamper parts are GPM parts. Many gpm Tamiya parts are pretty terrible quality, particular parts that need precision are often wonky and make your car handle poorly.
  5. So you got me thinking cause I had not tried to convert the xv01 front end to a cc01. I went in my rc room, my heavily grinded CC01 front end gives me around 31mm of travel with a CC01 alloy damper. TheN I went to my xv01 long damper, It has gf01 alloy dampers fitted (identical to cc01 but blue) and I’ve cut the chassis to bits (no droop stops etc) and grinded suspension mounts and I’ve managed to squeeze 31mm of travel from the front of my xv01. it’s worth mentioning they both have identical travel shocks on them, I may be able to get a tiny bit more out of the CC01 front end with a longer shock but I doubt more than another 4-5mm. the xv01 front end I’m not certain, the driveshaft is nearly touching the hub already in downstroke and I think I’ve grinded that already. I will need to investigate if there is much scope for more travel before even considering the intricacies of strapping it all onto the cc01. I probably have all of the parts I’d need in spares so something to consider.
  6. The only way to get more travel from a CVA mini sized shock is switch to cc01 or gf01 alloy dampers, which have more overall travel (about 20-25% more). ultimatly though, you can’t get more travel and more articulation without increasing the tower height unless the shocks your using are not optimized in their length. (Gmade xd are very short on travel compared to their length, so if your using those then other shocks will improve things.)
  7. having roused me into doing more research, I was right about that part number being CVA short, but you where right about them being on the front of the Titan, in fact it uses a CVA short (dt03 spec shaft) in its entirety but with internal spacers to make them short enough. it’s the rear that is not a CVA specifically but the shocks off TXT-1/TGM-02/CR-01 They are like a CVA Long.
  8. 0225073 Is CVA v2 short parts (rear dt02 dampers) I don’t believe the fronts are anything more than CVA mini. i share your sentiment though in wishing there was a CVA body size in between mini and short.
  9. There is plenty of aftermarket options available thats pretty easy, I was pointing out that if you buy the CR01 Prop Shafts they won't fit on the 242mm wheelbase, even if you buy the shorter models. Ultimately though, money would be better spent on the best quality ultra soft tyres money can buy instead of metal propshafts, Tyres and wheels make more difference than any other modification you can fit on a crawler or trail rig.
  10. I’m running the Land Rover on mine which is the shortest wheelbase CC01 body (242mm), I did need to trim the propshafts slightly but otherwise there was holes everywhere to make it happen. the stock body is 267mm which is the longest cc01 wheelbase, and there is holes to do the middle cc01 size 252mm and the propshafts work without trimming. in other words, all CC01 bodys can fit the CC02. But, the body post holes don’t correspond to cc01 shells (not a big deal most CC01 bodys are not drilled) I will add though, there is no CR01 prop shafts for the 242mm setting. Again no big deal, for trail running the plastic shafts are more than strong enough.
  11. 20c 5000 plenty on tble-02s. the esc should overheat before you could damage the battery pack from over current. just keep in mind it doesn’t cutoff until Under 3.0v per cell which is slightly on the low side for lipo. Just remember to stop driving as soon as the pack dumps or loses significant power. if you can’t do that get a lipo cutoff alarm. Always recharge (or discharge) to 3.8-4.0v per cell within 12-24hrs of use for storage. Failing to store lipo’s with a storage level charge is the main reason Lipo packs die. Always check your packs voltage when your finished using them for the day and return to a storage voltage level. storing lipos flat or fully charged for extended periods will kill the battery.
  12. If you can find them, the pistons from the hicap mini are stiffer and a tighter fit than the actual CVA pistons and seem to be a bit smoother running. the CVA’s work really well on the CC02 because they are mounted vertically so there is very little lateral load on them. In vehicles with heavily angled shocks, a better quality shock makes a lot more difference. That being said plenty of aftermarket units don’t work well with lateral loads either, even if they look fancy on the outside.
  13. CC01 uses a 70mm shock CC02 uses a 90mm shock Tamiya don't currently offer a set of 4 alloy shocks for the CC02, I messed about alot with various Gmade dampers, and yeah racing and various others, in the end, I put some Hi Cap mini pistons and some CVA piston type shafts and switched to single O ring with a TRF Nylon bush in my stock shocks and am very happy with that setup. The stock shocks seemed to outperform basically everything I could come up with aftermarket. Tamiya do offer a Big Bore damper in the right length but the cost is crazy and uncertain if they make soft enough springs. I'm waiting for tamiya to build and supply a proper set for the time being, but I'm happy with my current arrangement. In the past tamiya have made sets that might have worked, like 54109, 53492, 54472.. as I say, these "MIGHT" work. There is HEAPS of aftermarket options, but I wasted heaps of money and ended up back at the stock shocks and just upgraded there internals slightly, thats the setup I'm happy with now.
  14. I should be doing a build thread on this kit in a few weeks, I’ve been down the road of trying to improve the front suspension, but nothing really works as well as the stock parts grinded a bit. I tried the TL01LA parts like was on the tamiyausa website, but actually this design leads to less travel and less steering, because the c hub has to droop down inside the arm, there is little droop capability, from a crawling perspective it doesn’t work. The TRF suspension on the TT02S suffers the same issue. the front end really needs to be restarted from scratch with an ball pivot style front end to really make some gains.
  15. If you want something that has a gearbox that can handle general brushless power it’s hard to beat DT02/3 (same gearbox) I’ve never had any ingress with any of my DT’s, and they get thoroughly abused with paddle tires and serious uncontrolable idiot brushless power. I really love the way the DF01 drives in Top Force or manta Ray guise but the gearbox can’t handle a lot of power combined with a lot of grip. No amount of mods seem to help. However if you stick to brushed or about a 13.5t sensored it’s perfectly fine. But I wouldn’t strap anything sensorless in it, been there, done that... nope. Juls
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