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Juls1

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About Juls1

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  • Birthday April 23

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  1. The GMade shocks have very little travel compared to the Tamiya’s and are quite bulky. They don’t compare in smoothness or performance to the cc01/gf01 shocks, not even close. The gmades are a nice tough shock to put on a traxxas basher. spring wise for cc01/gf01 the trf201 front springs can be used but they are quite firm, may suit in high traction conditions. For rally with sway bars the tfr501x front springs will be better, particularly for the rear, you might like to buy both sets, the 201’s suit better up front and the 501’s are better suited out back. Juls
  2. Most of the so called rubber shielded bearings on eBay and online stores available cheaply are actually plastic covers, not rubber. Typically these fall off if subjected to a small amount of abuse. Not sure they are any better than the steel cover bearings. If nothing else they look fancier.
  3. Uncertain if your just playing funny ******s, mine came with proper rear tyres. It’s a fantastic handling buggy, makes DT02/3 seem like a joke.
  4. if its sensored it'll need a separate sensor cable, the esc will need to be compatible. Dollar for dollar, sensored usually costs about 15-25% torque/power compared to unsensored. Sensored is easier to drive "slowly" not much difference if your only bashing and once your off the line. Not till you get into the really expensive sensored stuff do you see really impressive performance, expensive sensored offers more options with regards to tuning (timing/turbo/boost/throttle curves etc etc) directly from the ESC. alot of us run sensored because we use the included TBLE-02S ESC which is only sensored, it cannot run unsensored. but really for the general basher looking for cheap power, sensorless motors offer greater reliability in dirty/dusty and wet conditions and considerably more outright performance for the few dollars you spend. If your racing, then you would probably be be running sensored because the power delivery is smoother and easier to drive slowly "within the confines of a racetrack".
  5. The mail system worldwide is stuffed right now, Australia post have cancelled all international economy air freight because there is no planes to put it on. pretty much in the current climate it’s either EMS/courier or don’t bother. Forget cheap free air freight for the next 6-12 months. I’m experiencing 2-3 weeks to get stuff from the other side of Australia right now, and it’s only a 5 hour flight. so, given everything that’s happening we gotta be patient.
  6. been running 4000kv brushless on 7.4V with paddle tyres for a long time, huge air time, massive crap tail landings, crashes. never, ever, managed to get the motor to move from its holes. Still original gearcase after years of abuse, Even still running plastic outdrives and dogbones with no issues. That transmission is amazingly tough. (I can't say the same for my traxxas and vaterra vehicles of similar design). I believe either the screws where originally tightend too far, crushing the plastic (unlikely) or the screws came loose at some point, and the motor moving around has thrashed out the holes.
  7. My G601 is fine with only front wheel steering, rarely tips over. If I put the rear wheel steering in, if you go even mildly fast it’s just on its side or upside down. moral of the story is if you want to go faster than about 5-10mph forget about the rear steering. I fitted a TL01 sway bar on the front of mine, which reduced steering a bit, but reduced the tendency for the front to grip and dive causing roll overs. im planning to put TL01B arms on mine, make it more off road capable and generally more stable.
  8. You could swap it if you like, the sport tuned is a faster motor than the torque tuned. It certainly will make the dt03 quicker.
  9. Springs for trf501x will be softest you can fit on DF03 damper, the trf201 set is slightly firmer again, while the actual DF03 setting spring sets are the firmest. The springs included on the aeration buggy dampers fit straight on too. as for the big bores, they take a much wider spring, and generally the sets available are quite soft.
  10. I use the stock diff oil, havnt really messed too much with that. No idea what oils I’m using in the shocks, I have most weights in stock so I would have just figured it out as I went, I think I ended up heavier up front though because the front springs need to be quite heavy.
  11. My DT02 turns sharper than my DT03, for no other reason than it’s shorter. It is more inclined to push under power however as the short wheelbase makes the front lighter. I prefer the DT03 personally, but my DN01 makes the handling of both seem like a joke.
  12. I’ve not had the issue myself, you could try the black trf bladders but good luck finding them for sale. Can’t say I’ve tried them myself. I guess on the upside you’ve probably got some cva’s laying around you could pinch the bladders from.
  13. They always seem to takes much longer to process orders than rcmart. Often 7-10 days before shipping especially if it’s a fairly large complicated order. I think they don’t always have everything on hand. So if they need to get something in from within HK or nearby country’s coronavirus is likely to be effecting that.
  14. the DB02 is this far, I'm a bit stalled, life got busy, and lost my mojo for them for the time being.
  15. I’m not sure what the thinking was when Tamiya decided to put shells on the mf01x that would indicate that it might be able to be used as a crawler, as it’s not even close to being a reasonable crawler, if not for the reason that all the weight is at the back and it flips over backwards at the hint of a climb, let alone the tiny amount of suspension movement. that being said the bodys are very nice and you can make a great looking little vehicle for kids to play with, the 1.55” mtz is the best option if you absoluently must crawl or trail it, but it’s not going to come close to making it keep up with a well sorted cc01. I would just buy another cc01 or a cc02. A crawler chassis the mf01x simply is not. The beetle rally body is probably the most valid use of it to date. I know some kids will get upset with the car if it can’t do what the adult car can do of your driving together, I’ve taken to actually giving them at least a equally capable vehicle to use (in terms of crawlers, not 60mph bashers), just helps to keep to them interested. Also helps prevent them believing it’s something they are doing wrong when the car is holding them back.
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