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Juls1

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About Juls1

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  • Birthday April 23

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  1. It continues to amaze me that there is still new in packet FF01 chassis parts. Particularly the front gearbox. I tried to restore my old FF01 I had when I was 13 about 3 years ago but ended up building a new FF01 from parts and hopping it up. Consequently it ended up being a shelfer. I should really rebuild the original as a runner one day.
  2. I tend to build cars, then decide I don’t want to run it cause it’s too nice or rare or otherwise. I’ve been known to buy a second of said vehicle either second hand or new and kept stock then run that. So I end up with 2. My shelfers vary, from retired (and tired) cars, to old restored models to modern fully bombed (hopped up) models. Often cars that are getting hard to find parts for are shelved when they are new. While some of my shelfers are there for their chassis and their body is tolerated for reasons that Tamiya says they belong there, where some shelfers are mearly there for the body, and what lies beneath is not relevant. Be the shelfer there for personal reasons, for the sake of collection, for the sake of completion. Each has its own mixture of reasons to sit on the shelf. For those that are not yet on the shelf, this is because they are still NIB. I’m not one for keeping unbuilt kits, I’d rather build and display them. Yes I’m one of those people that buy kits someone’s been sitting on for 10-20 years NIB, potentially pay... quite a bit. Then rip it all open and build it.. sorry...not sorry. My hobby is not an investment.
  3. Annoyingly they will come loaded with Avante springs which will be too heavy for most 2wd buggys, particularly up front, and they won't re release the original spring kits. Lucky Gmade XD 19mm springs fit. The only springs tamiya make that might fit are the Big Bore Aeration damper sets. 54506/7/8 but I think the fronts might be too long. Either way I'm happy to see these on the horizon with them re releasing the avante again. I'll certainly be picking up some sets, whats the bet they don't make enough!
  4. There is a number of alternate diff options yeah racing and 3 racing make sealed diffs you can fill with thick oil. https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-38t-gear-differential-set-for-tamiya-m05-m06-tamc-023-00071722 https://www.rcmart.com/3racing-gear-differential-39t-for-m05-m06-m06-06-00033335 There is also aftermarket outdrive cups to fit the stock diff. https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-steel-front-rear-gear-joint-for-tamiya-tt02-tt02-017-00036592 https://www.rcmart.com/3racing-diff-outer-joint-for-tamiya-tt-01-tt01-02-00019744 Hope that helps.
  5. Sounds like your having fun, the customization or mechanical improvements is ready makes Tamiya kits fun to work with. Especially when many parts swap between different chassis even when they are not included in a that particular chassis. the diff idea sounds good. I guess a wax paper might be the go for greater longevity? Just watch that heavy grease doesn’t escape into the gearbox and slow the whole gearbox down and potentially overheating your motor. not to mention making a mess in the gearbox. Juls
  6. Alot of people who race M03/05 run locked front diffs on the race track, I doubt it'd be a issue on the road, unless you where running Type A slicks or something equally sticky. The M05RA parts, don't alter the stock suspension, but instantly give you 3-4mm more ride height, so it's more of a "bolt on" job done kind of situation. Remember that M05 stock doesn't come with oil shocks, simply adding longer shocks doesn't work without physical modification, so from Tamiyas perspective those uprights made alot of sense, this being said while the RA uprights prevent you from getting more droop (arms going lower) the limitation of more travel is as much to do with the shock towers position, if the shock tower was taller then you could squeeze a longer shock in there for more up travel. But alas no such part exist. Juls
  7. I got my last order from RCMart last week, Came by Fedex, 4 days from HK to me in Australia. Our internal freight system in Australia is relatively uneffected for express parcels, I don't know what your internal freight systems are like in the US as they might rely more heavily on local flights. I generally do a order a month from rcmart (and have done last 5+ years), they've never failed me yet. The thing I like most about rcmart is the order is normally dispatched in 2-3 days, alot of the other HK sellers can take up to 10 days to dispatch. Juls
  8. Looking good, you’ll be editing the title total soon, your far enough down the rabbit hole to start spiraling out of control now... I did the same thing with my M06, the one thing I regret is losing my 3racing battery strap. They appear to be completely unavailable now for 3-4 years.
  9. If there is a lot of vibration that’s getting worse as you speed up I can’t help but feel your tyres are possibly so poorly made that there weight balance is completely shot. It is possible to balance the tyres using a prop balancer, although the fronts you can nearly do it on the car if the wheel/tyre seems to want to rest in a particular position meaning it’s heavier at the bottom. of course if there is slop this will make it worse but ultimately it’s the balance of the rotating parts that’s probably causing the issue.
  10. The problem is the weight balance you’ll struggle to get enough weight over the rear tyres to have anything like decent grip. if you look at the m06, the motor is way out back behind the back wheels, and the battery is pulled back against the gearbox. if you look at the m08, the motor is just in front of the back wheels and the battery is hard against it. Both of these cars are built from the ground up as RWD. a TT02 is designed from the ground up to be 4wd therefore the weight balance is more mid centric to make it easier to drive. What you’ll find is you’ll struggle for rear traction, it’ll want to loop out all the time. If your cambers are out even slightly it’ll just constantly loop one direction and push the other. Getting some extra weight behind the back wheels will be critical to getting some traction then sorting out the overall weight balance left to right to help keep it going straight. the other thing that will help a rwd conversion is modifying it to have way more steering throw as you’ll need the extra turn in to be able to catch that back end. if you just pull out the front and centre driveshaft you’ll quickly come to realise it’s pretty hopeless without further adjustments. Juls
  11. It's been awhile since I did it, you just need to look at where the restriction is in terms of getting droop, if you take the shock off and let it fall, you can see where the hub and arm touch each other, then you just take a bit off, if you have a really sharp knife you can slice some off, but you may cut yourself in the process. you might need to take a tiny bit off the upper part to let the dogbone through at the front. You'd also want a set of CVA Mini there built up to make sure you don't grind off further than you really need, all your trying to do it get a bit more droop to give you that extra clearance. At the end of the day though, the car is still darn close to the ground and has tiny little wheels, so you need to be realistic about your running surfaces. for M05 I recommend either locking the front diff, or running some fairly stiff diff putty, if you run open diff you'll spend your whole life bogged. The M05RA uprights are a just bolt on job done situation, but they lower the dogbone in the arm so it restricts you from having more travel, the advantage of doing slight grinding and using Mini CVA as opposed to the stock super mini is that you also gain a little bit more travel which is welcome on a rally car. Juls
  12. Unfortunately in current times there is no cheap freight that doesn’t take a lifetime to arrive, with 80+% of the planes in the world grounded then there is no where to put cheap air freight items. So for the next few years sadly we just gotta suck it up and deal with the cost. My suggestion is find the item you want from a seller that has some other parts you want (but may not need) to spread out the freight cost a little. if your like any of the rest of us here, it’s not unusual for a $5 part to turn into a $200+ order....
  13. The dt03 dampers bolt straight on and are a good option for mad bull without getting silly money wise. that being said any of the Tamiya buggy shock sets should work. Juls
  14. It will work, however the Tamiya steel pinion is a one off purchase, as in, it won’t wear out. Neither will it wear the gear it’s running against. I guess you gotta figure it out value wise, for me if it’s double the money of the rrp, then it’s still worth it to have the right part. But if it’s 4 x the price the may as well try the rrp unit. Juls
  15. Gonna look alot better when the truck wheels come, you chose the same prolines I've got lined up for my DT03T build!
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