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Juls1

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About Juls1

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  1. not sure if you saw my build, if you have any questions let me know.
  2. For Tamiya cars 100A should be plenty, that being said the extra few dollars for 168A isn’t too be sniffed at. if you intend on owning anything bigger and heavier than the average Tamiya, then the extra capability is worth having. I had some 3700mah 30c lipo’s I used for 8 years on Tamiya cars and various others without a problem. Loved those battery’s. Then I bought a proboat veles 29 boat and destroyed both of my beloved battery’s on the first run, failed to consider how much current it would draw and ruined both battery’s. Later on I picked up a Traxxas UDR, and stupidly destroyed a pair of 4000mah 30c packs. Again it used more current than the battery’s where designed for. I guess what I’m saying is, that if you know you’ll only be pushing around lightweight 1/10 scale Tamiyas, then go the cheaper packs. But if anything bigger and heavier is on the horizon, the extra C purchased now can save you money and time later on.
  3. Sometimes computer radios set at 100% epa don’t have enough bandwidth for a ESC to be setup properly. Try setting the epa on your radio to 125-150% and see if that makes a difference. Not saying this is the problem but it’s something I’ve come across with my DX5R several times with some esc’s.
  4. The Traxxas system included in most new Traxxas cars is actually already quite good, it controls both steering and throttle input (so traction control to some extent) and can be tuned from the radio 0 to 100%. I’ve only got it on my unlimited desert racer, and given it needs slippery tyres to stop it traction rolling, and given it has a spool at the back I find about 15-20% stability management is a sweet spot, any more and it interferes way too much for my liking, and any less and it’s a real struggle to drive in a straight line under power, but it’s very happy to let you drift full opposite lock for as long as the longest corner you can find still. until I got the UDR I was a total no f’ing way and intended to ditch the radio ASAP but having tried it, realised the implementation actually adds fun and is constantly adjustable. I was mostly just amazed it actually worked. this being said I have not tried it on any other Traxxas model and I’ve got a 2wd slash/rustler/rustler 4x4/summit etc. but none of them had it when I bough them. as for the aftermarket units, I don’t know much about them I thought the gyros only really controlled the steering but I’m happy to be corrected.
  5. I’m running a 4000kv sensorless 5636 (proper one, not a 380 inside) on 7.4v with paddles. Stock diff, dogbones etc. Run for hours and hours and hours. Never had a problem. it’s an exceptional beach rail. I run the turnbuckle set for awhile but got sick of the balls popping off. Put the solid upper arms back on. I run SS hingepins where possible. Left front u pin in though. My aqroshot I keep bending the front stub axles, but it’s the same axles as any other Tamiya truck running 2.2” wheels so not really specific to dt03t. I’ve put aftermarket units on now but not tried them yet.
  6. The TT02B handles very nicely, it’s probably not so much the kickup but the overall design that lets it down when you try to drive over stuff it tends to just plough the front down, of course you get used to that quickly and just drive around it, The TL01B was a great buggy in some ways handling similar to DF01, but the TT02B is probably much stronger and certainly handles way better.
  7. The DF01 is a really great buggy, especially in top force evo guise. It jumps well, handles rough ground very well, overall grip and handling is ok, plenty for mucking about. The only downside is it’s drivetrain is slightly limited in how much power it can handle “in ultra high grip situations”. It is by no means a modern race buggy though. the TT02B is a pretty reasonable buggy but it really needs a number of upgrades to be decent. Handling wise it’s actually very good on level surfaces, quite modern in fact, it’s let down by its touring car chassis total lack of any front kickup which snags up on jump ramps and any other front on impact. It doesn’t jump very well but it does reward you when you occasionally get it right. DF03 is a overall upgrade from the DF01, it does physically handle better, and it’s suspension is improved and overall however it’s support in the aftermarket has dwindled to almost nothing in recent years, and it’s not without its flaws. It can fairly easily be turned into a fake df03MS given the body is the same and most of the basic parts are still available. DB01 is the best handling overall, is the stiffest and most accurate with the very best in race adjustments. But it’s also the most rare, and it’s a fairly big hole in the ground to hopup and with the hopup pool steadily diminishing that hole is easily 4 figures wide. if I had to live with one, it’d be a DF01 top force / evo for me.
  8. The only reason to go longer travel than the stock is if you want that scale max droop look over jumps or your driving on very very rough surfaces. I cannot imagine any racing scenario where further increasing the travel is any advantage. I keep saying the stock xv01 is the best option, it just works from day one. you can even fit the longer CVA mini shocks on the stock towers with the right ends if you want a tiny bit more travel.
  9. I grinded pretty much everything and anything that fouled including the suspension mounts, and the screws going through them, cut the droop screw mounts off altogether, grinded the chassis away dramatically. This is why I’ve always said if you go the long damper route then there is a lot of modding/grinding required if you want to access the maximum travel available when fitting the gf01 dampers. (And why the stock car is the best option for 90% of people) of course you can put spacers in the dampers to shorten them if you don’t want the extra downtravel. It’s worth remembering the gf01 damper has about 25% more stroke than the stock CVA mini included in the long damper kit, so adding spacers just puts you back where Tamiya intended you to be. The droop screws are a quick and easy fix too.
  10. The foam spacers that sit inside the diaphragm do reduce the capacity and therefore increase ramp up. You don’t have to use them, but they do help stop the diaphragm from being crushed to some extent. It’s just another tuning tool, to allow you to adjust the ramp up at the end stroke. It can be removed if you want less end point resistance.
  11. For the xv01T and XV01 conversion, the B parts and F parts are different. The xv01T is 255mm wheelbase vs 257mm this could explain the different F parts. The B parts have a different bumper, so you’d either have to cut it off or buy the right b parts. Your only up for about $15-20usd got both sprues but you’ll need body, wheels and tires, and you’ll be left with a pile of parts. the stock xv01 kit with body IMO is the best value and the best set and forget setup. If you want to make a super long travel version the XV01 long damper you can add GF01 alloy damper kit, and grind and cut like mad on the arms/mounts/knuckles and achieve full use of available damper travel, but you probably won’t want alloy suspension mounts in that case cause you have to grind 30% of them off. I run the carbon reinforced part, not broken it yet even with all the material missing. Unless you run crazy stiff springs (defeating the purpose) you’ll need the firm roll bars after all that to make it driveable without being upside down all the time on mildly grippy surfaces.
  12. The xv01 standard is still probably the best bet, the long damper isn’t that beneficial unless your looking to do significant modifications to allow a lot more travel, in standard form the long damper model probably offers about 10% more travel. The only difference is different towers and CVA mini instead of super mini, the stock xv01 super minis are fitted with long TRF shafts as standard that’s why there is very little travel difference. Unless you like tinkering (grinding, cutting etc) I see little value in the long damper. But you can always change a stock over later in. while the touring car model can be used off road, it does lose some ground clearance as it doesn’t have the buggy based front suspension anymore. The truck version has slightly different suspension parts that alters the wheelbase. Handling wise the xv01 is a immense step up from the TA01/02. The weight bias is totally different and the front heavy xv01 handles much more like a real car, and tail out slides actually look and feel realistic. The greatest effect is that it just goes where it’s front tyres are pointed. The overall chassis is at a higher level, the adjustability and precision is that of a top end race vehicle. While the xv01 handles scale sized jumps fantastically, any rear weight bias chassis is going to be better at doing unrealistic sized jumps. the TA01 is a great chassis based on the DF01, it’s essentially a off road buggy with short arms, but it’s also very old and difficult to get the setup precise and keep it that way. I don’t think you’ll be unhappy with the XV01, especially if your a rally car fan.
  13. About 6 months ago Ebay got flooded with overpriced tamiya items from Japan. I ended up stopping looking because 50% of the listings where this overpriced stuff from Japan.
  14. Just get the xv01 and pickup a Embie racing chassis for it, that allows rear battery mounting, that offsets the front weight bias quite nicely. most of the other touring cars people use they fit custom chassis anyway.
  15. I suggest DF03 alloy damper set. They are a touch longer so you get a bit more ground clearance and a bit more travel. The damping performance is superior to the CVA, very close to TRF. Pretty much any buggy damper sets from Tamiya can be made to fit anyway. If you want to go aftermarket I’ve had a good run from gmade XD, durability is very good but they are not quite as smooth or nice as a proper Tamiya unit.
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