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  1. Juls1


    Never had a problem with points before, The code is always on the shipping box. This prevents points being stolen by someone else maybe? I always have to select to spend my credits. The points are not worth alot, but then remember that rcmart is cheap to begin with, many of the companys that offer big points rewards are charging alot more to begin with. Juls
  2. Tamiyas thread forming tap is nothing like regular tap/die set you’ll buy anywhere. A regular tap “cuts” the thread by physically cutting and removing material. A thread forming tap makes the thread in the plastic without removing any material at all so you still have a very tight and strong thread. I made the rookie mistake of thinking the Tamiya Tap was like any other tap. Once I’d ruined a heap of parts I researched it and realised my mistake. I now own a thread forming tap.
  3. Juls1

    TA03rsTRF shocks

    It’s how they came, it’s something that sets that particular car apart from other TA03 kits.
  4. I don’t remember it asking for that when I built myn, I was probably using the thread forming tool. I highly doubt it says to use a thread cutting tap, more likely the Tamiya thread forming tap. A thread cutting tap will stuff up any plastic part you put it in, as it removes a lot of material leaving a very minimal amount of material for the screw to grab onto, usually resulting in a ruined part. The thread forming tap doesn’t remove any material, honestly for all intensive purposes a decent screw does essentially the same job just it’s harder to control than the thread forming tap in a chuck with handle.
  5. It’s best to use the long damper spec towers, with the gf-01 dampers as they offer a lot of travel. That being said you may be able to make them fit with short ball end on stock towers. The gf01 shock is longer travel than CVA Mini included in the long damper kit. And certainly way longer than the CVA micro included in the standard xv01. To get the most physical travel it requires trimming the arms/knuckles/arm mounts using the full length of the gf01 shocks. But you could just limit the travel of the shock with plastic spacers internal and external by a few mm to avoid doing the grinding mods. As for the springs, the 501/2x front springs (53974) are the right length for the gf01 dampers and softest available (front/rear same same) for a firmer spring rate trf201 front springs (54221) are quite a bit stiffer and same size. The df03 front springs (49431) are firmer again. When you add travel and soft springs you end up with extra grip with results in body roll and basically flip the car. The sway bars help us tune in a reduction in grip until we find a balance between controllable drifts but not grip rolling in corners, while keeping that huge droop and travel to make those realistic rally jumps. I think if you want to do mostly on road then shorter shocks are going to be a better option, either 42102 or 54000. Of course these will need the associated shorter spring sets. if I’m swapping between on and off road then the best option is having a long and short set of shocks, only takes a minute to swap shocks and tires for those different applications. Sway bars 54514, long damper towers 54581 and 54582. You can still use short shocks on the long towers by just using long damper ends. However if your using the touring car version it’s all different as the arms are further away from the towers (so long damper towers don’t work/are not needed.) the long damper towers may limit what body’s you can use on the chassis, I don’t think it’d be much of a issue though. Juls
  6. For the long damper kit the go to shock is the gf01 alloy damper set, the cc01 damper kit is identical but different color. It could also be used on the regular xv01 towers with short ends. But without modification, they have a bit too much travel for a stock kit. Sway bars are mandatory if you increase the travel. Trf502x front springs are the best option for gf01 dampers on the xv01 but without sway bars they might be too soft for some users. Juls
  7. Juls1

    TB01/Levant Help

    If the levant uses a 13t pinion vs the TB01 15t pinion, then I’m struggling to understand how they can both use the same diff casing. I would have thought the levant would have diff casings that put the pinion/shaft closer to the diff gear. I’m keen to be corrected on this though!! It would make sense if you put a 13t pinion and levant shaft in a TB01 casing designed for a 15t pinion that it would skip due to improper mesh. But you say the casings are identical?
  8. Juls1

    Project RR-03Ra - Converting a TRF201 into a rally car

    Looks like it runs well and you’ve kept just enough rear grip too! The question is how well does it fly?
  9. Juls1

    Painting body color Hyundai i20 93045

    Looks like you got nothing to complain about there! I will get around to doing myn at some point.
  10. Juls1

    TA01 Motor Stall

    Esc low voltage could be tripping off. If your using a nimh with the esc on lipo mode that’s very possible. Of course a stuffed lipo pack will do that too.
  11. Juls1

    Grub screws on pinion2

    It’s most likely imperial, my associated cars had smaller grub screw in the pinions back in the days when I ran them.
  12. Juls1

    FF03 Pro-R - My own version

    That rear shock tower is looking all sick and plastic like... great car the ff03, just oozes that it’s something different.
  13. Juls1

    I'm satisfied...

    It’s called a cycle, you’ll be back....
  14. Juls1

    Top Force vs Super Astute

    The top force is a different animal to the Db01rr and neither is better than each other for various reasons. The DF01 chassis is just a really nice play chassis flat out. Of course the DB01RR is a better handling race car, but the top force has its own feel about it. If you already own a DF01 (manta Ray etc) probably not a lot of point in a top force unless you really want the look. If you don’t have a DF01 why haven’t you bought a top force yet? I’m sure the re releases are nearly sold out by now. Remember the DB01RR has no body, no wheels, no tires and no electronics. That being said, it’s a classic that probably won’t be re released.
  15. Juls1

    Yeah Racing 'QUTUS'

    It’s been done before, progressive suspension made shocks for RC probably 15 years ago now that had rotating internal piston. The design was different to this though they had a shaft inside another shaft so you could turn one part of the piston, the spring cup was the adjuster you turned while holding the eyelet. The piggybacks where functional, but where filled with a foam to allow compression compensation. For whatever reason they never took off, they where very expensive.