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Juls1

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About Juls1

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  1. The springs included with Xv02, xv01ld, df03 dampers, aeration dampers etc are all 40mm long, 15mm external 13mm internal. the longer spring in the 50519 which is the standard front spring on DT01/2/3 df02/3 (rear spring on cc01, standard springs on TA02T and others) are slighter shorter at 36mm x 15 x 13mm. yes there is room on the standard xv02 dampers for a 50mm spring. But tamiya don’t offer it for the narrow body. Juls
  2. They are identical to the front springs on all tamiya buggy’s and the long damper version of the XV01. I actually reckon the xv02 spring kit is just the front springs out of the DF03 spring kit without change. (Given they are for the same damper and they look identical it only makes sense) so trf501 and trf201 front springs are the same size. Most of the old school rally cars that came with hi cap mini (not super mini) came with the same size spring, in fact there is a pair included in 50519. Long story short pretty much all tamiya front buggy springs for 10mm body dampers will fit.
  3. So moving onto the shocks. First up lets compare stock XV01 Shocks with stock XV02 shocks. You'll see the stock XV01 made use of 11mm of damper travel, the XV02 we jump up 6mm to 17mm stroke. Where with the XV01 the stock dampers didn't use the full capability of the suspension design and modding was popular, the XV02 is completely maxed out from the factory. Here we compare the XV02 Damper with the popular mod for the XV01 the GF01 Damper, where the XV02 is limited to 17mm stroke due to drivetrain issues, the GF01 damper pumps out 18mm of stroke which cannot be used entirely on the XV01 without Mods, but can be done with lots of cutting and grinding. What is a bit frustrating here is that they could have gotten away with the GF01 (CC01) dampers instead of using the DF03 front dampers, why would that be better? Because the stock setup the body mounts are moved away from the tower to the bumper in order to allow the body to be placed low enough due to the tall towers. This is a pain because most Tamiya rally body's already have holes in the shock tower position. If they had gone with the GF01 style damper then it's likely we could have kept the standard body mount position without any loss of suspension travel. So why did they do this? Well there is no hopup from the GF01 damper currently, but from the DF03 Front we can upgrade to the Front big bore buggy dampers, maybe thats the rational? but I would have preferred to have been able to drop my XV01 bodys onto my XV02 chassis personally. Here is a Comparison of all the XV dampers set at their max stroke, keep in mind the XV02 is limited by its driveshafts falling out at around the 17mm stroke mark. The XV01 is limited by the droop stops and it's steering, lots of grinding of suspension parts can bring this out to 17/18mm. Keep in mind however the stock XV01 only runs 11mm of stroke. Now we have that out of the way, lets compare the stock XV02 dampers (DF03 front) to the Big bores. The big bores are noticeably more complicated and are emulsion type (air mixed with oil) compared to the stock dampers which have bladders (air separated from oil). The Big bores are quite a bit fatter, and do have nicer parts as standard. They carry a fair bit more oil and can be run on slightly lighter oil due to the reduction of oil bypass this means pack can occur more consistently, thus you can run lighter damping with the same bottom out control. The Big bores are so much fatter in fact, that the stock XV02 Damper bodys fit inside the big bore damper body!
  4. If your going to use it on road and not lower and firm up the suspension you’ll likely want firm sway bars. oil wise really depends on what springs your using and what the vehicle weight is, and if or not your using sway bars. I would start with the kit recommendation and then move from there if necessary. The long and the short is, the answer to your question depends on lots of different factors that you’ll need to judge yourself once you drive it. Juls
  5. Look for something around the 8-10kg mark, minimum speed should be 0.1, preferably less. I run 9kg 0.08 in my xv01. for xv02 you want low profile, otherwise you need spacers which lifts the servo up higher which creates more flex in the mount.
  6. Yeah front is different I’m toying with getting a second rear tower to see if a standard setup is possible. The issue is if you can get the bonnet low enough.
  7. Have had to have a temp hiatus but will be back into it later this month.
  8. Battery management is everything. 1. Never ever leave battery’s discharged longer than a day. 2. Never ever leave battery’s charged longer than a day 3. Always store your battery’s at partial charge (30-80%) 4. Never overcharge your battery 5. never over discharge your battery. 6. if the pack is gets puffy, dispose of it safely, don’t try to keep using it. been doing this for 10 years now, before that I had pack after pack die. Since then I’ve only thrown out 1 pack, I’ve got about 16 packs in total some are easily 10 years old.
  9. The kit springs are very hard, if you go longer travel with sway bars you will want softer suspension anyway. I generally run a fairly hard spring up front and a softer out back. There is 2 different TRF front springs, one for trf201 the other for trf501. One set is much softer than the other. The df03 front springs also fit, the df03 set is the firmest of the three, I believe the new xv02 spring kits are just df03 front spring set, so of course the new xv02 spring kit is a option should you be chasing firmer springs.
  10. Yes the TRF springs work fine. External body measurement on the standard TRF aeration dampers is the same.
  11. 19805901 suits TA02 chassis, TA01 chassis uses the same chassis as DF01 (top force etc) which is longer than the Ta02. Which is why ta02 arms are different to ta01 arms, and the prop shafts are different lengths. The equivalent TA01 prop shaft is 13485025 in short, a aftermarket prop shaft for TA01 will fit TA01 and DF01 but it won’t fit TA02.
  12. No i don’t think it will, different length chassis on ta01. you need https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-aluminum-main-drive-shaft-set-bu-for-tamiya-ta02-ta02s-ta02sw-ta02-134bu-00032408?search=Ta02 yeah racing rcjaz also sells a similar looking one made by integy (rebranded to rcjaz)
  13. I’m running 15.5T tamiya tblm-02s. Geared properly it’s more than enough for rally use. It’s around the 2800kv mark at 0 timing but adding timing increases that quite a bit, I run around the 6.5-7 gear ratio wise. (26-28t pinion on the xv-02) if you advance the timing further than the stock adjustability (using the esc timing adjustability if you have it) then you’d need to start gearing a bit higher if things are getting hot.
  14. Unless you really want the adjustability (and understand what it all does) the non adjustable units will likely be a more reliable and easier to deal with option. The plastic separate mounts tend to be pretty tough it’s the XJ one piece that is easily broken as it’s the one that cops it when you go head first into something, slide backwards into something or cartwheel the car. I’m yet to decide if the adjustable mounts will be more reliable, they do away with the balls, which are annoying, but they also give another rotation point to keep the suspension smooth. The adjustable mounts prevent the shaft rotating (at least I hope they do or they’ll wear and go crappy quickly) meaning only the arm holes will rotate rather than the pin. I think the main upgrade I’d go for is either the slipper clutch or the centre diff, tamiya writes in the manual these are suggested if you intend to use the 40t diff gear. if you want to run softer suspension or grippier tyres than stock then sway bars will most likely be needed. A steel pinion or a coated aluminum pinion isn’t a bad idea. Also steel diff cross pins are a good idea as well, the stock plastic parts fit poorly. Other than those few things, honestly the car doesn’t “need” more than that. That doesn’t mean you shouldn’t want more than just that…
  15. Yeah I had done pretty much exactly that but with some wet and dry sandpaper. I’ve eliminated the slop as you have with the bearings now locked in place, but of course with the center diff, the diff drives have a small amount of movement through the diff case into the differential. I think the stock bearings still have a small amount of slop too. But I can see the outer race is no longer contributing to the movement.
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