
Juls1
Members-
Content Count
1443 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Community Reputation
1720 ExcellentAbout Juls1
-
Rank
Member
- Birthday April 23
Recent Profile Visitors
4738 profile views
-
Raced my db01 last season off road clay track, designed to suit 1/8. I run the big bores so i had not come across above said issue, i’m surprised i thought at least one of the layouts of holes would work althought the df03 rear damper is 7mm longer in total of which only 3mm is extra travel, so 4mm overall is probably going to cause issues, that being said i have not got around to comparing directly the new df03 damper set i think its a fraction shorter than the older ones. The suspension arms i found to be the weakest part on db01, if i got silly and tried to clear the triples and didn’t nail it then it’d be race over every time.
-
The physical body is a bit longer, so you would lose some up travel. i think tamiya put those longer towers and dampers on so they could sell big bores as hopups. The gf01 damper would have had the same available travel (because the suspension cannot physically use all the travel the front buggy shocks offer) then they could have left us with standard body mount position at the front. Instead of putting them forward and making us drill extra holes.
-
If your wanting to maintain the full off road travel with the lower rs tower you can use gf01/cc01 alloy dampers. Will give you identical travel to the stock xv02 but on the short tower. Of course if you want low and road then 42102 is the go.
-
The 3665 should be fine, the gearbox itself is plenty tough to take the power although the suspension arm mounts can be ripped off if you do too many high speed cartwheels resulting in needing new gearbox casing. As a sand or grass machine with the right tires it’ll use that power nicely, forget about low traction surfaces or slippery tires though with that much power. I would get a steel pinion gear before you do anything the stock aluminium ones will kill themselves and also the whole gearbox. A steel pinion gear fixes that. Tamiya sells 54628 and 54629 as a fix, but if you have a 5mm shaft motor you’ll need a aftermarket pinion. cva’s can be fine as long as the shock shafts are not bent. There is some simple mods you can do that makes them alot better (replacing pistons/shafts and seals) the tt02b/df03 alloy set add a heap more ground clearance and superior performance if you can make the budget stretch they are worth it, if not then stick to the cva’s everything in between is just burnt money. The dt03 makes a great sand rail, adding some paddle tires on the back its a great beach basher as long as you’ve got plenty of power on tap.
-
Low profile nylock wheel nuts - anyone have a source?
Juls1 replied to Howards's topic in General discussions
Tamiya makes 42282 in steel for this purpose, they are not nyloc but serrated as above. I think they work equally as well, but not as good if you constantly remove wheels without replacing the wheel periodically as you’ll potentially slowly wear away the wheel face. But that issue is no different than the nyloc part on the nut failing after 10-20 uses. tamiya does also make 54080 low profile nyloc but its not flanged, and i’m not certain what the material is. That being said you’d likely get away without the flange on a m chassis size wheel. -
I put gpm ta02 arms on my ff01 there is pictures you can see the mods i had to make. https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/83912-ff-01-opel-vectra-sympathetic-restoration/&do=findComment&comment=686103
-
The ta02 arms work fine with small modification, i’d say the OP tried TA01 arms. That being said its not perfect you need to trim and shim the mount ends about a mm to get the wheelbase right. I have not noticed any change in width. Stock cc01/ta02/03/ff01 knuckle/c hub all fit up no worries.
-
In recent years i’ve almost exclusively used the tamiya decal scissors. Before that i just used the curved lexan scissors. I’ve never been successful with a knife.
-
Will it be the original chassis, a RM-01 or something else? I’m sure we will know in the coming week.
-
My orders just being shipped, worst wait i’ve had is 10 days, check your junk mail that they have not sent you a email and waiting on a confirmation from you. Sometimes if they don’t have something or cannot get it, they will put your order on hold till you respond to them asking what you’d like to do. Alternatively they might just be waiting still for parts on order. Juls
-
The dt02 is really designed to drive off road in lower traction environment, so it has a huge percentage of its weight over the rear tires, you’ll need to find some really slippery rear tires if you want to slide it on high traction surfaces, but given the amount of weight out back its a bad candidate for slides anyway. The dt03 has more weight forward with its longer chassis and longitudinal battery placement so its handling is a fraction more neutral than the dt02. if your looking for a rear drive drift-able on bitumen machine, there isn’t little option really beyond a purpose built drifter. Most 4wd options will do better, but the 50/50 weight distribution means it never feels realistic. There is few if any 4wd vehicles that feel realistic in that scenario with the exception of the xv-01 with its 60/40 weight distribution. in terms of getting the dt02 to do what you want, the easiest option is run it off road. Alternatively you could put internal spacers in the shocks, lower it down to 5-10mm ground clearance, stiffen the rear up as much as possible, fit the dt02 sway bars. Basically make it a on road vehicle. I wouldn’t stiffen up the diff action as with that weight balance you’ll end up in a push or spin situation, which isn’t where we want to be.
-
Does the yaris body fit with the factory holes or do we have to make holes in a different position?
-
Its about time, these things sold out quickly last time they re released them. And parts dried up in a instant too. I’ll be buying 2 most likely.
-
Adding trf pistons to cva’s assuming you’ve got red or blue orings brings them up 95% of a tamiya alloy shock. I’ve not used any of the cheaper aftermarket shocks. (3racing, yeah, gpm, etc etc) that i thought where worth the money they cost they where all cheaply made. Tamiya alloy dampers have always proven to be worth what they cost. But you can get most of the benefits for $10 spent on proper pistons for stock cva.
-
Buying my second Tamiya kit - but which one?
Juls1 replied to Rookie Rabbit's topic in General discussions
The fighter buggy RX was my first car some 28 or so years ago, i know its foibles all too well, but i drove that thing into the ground until it was completely worn out… Twice! I honestly think the DT02 or DT03 is a natural progression here, going from the hopper chassis to double wishbone front and rear is a revelation and i think that progression is somewhat lost if you go to something more complicated. The DT02/03 are the same car effectively, just the DT03 has a longer chassis thus is slightly more stable. Both share the same gearbox which is basically bulletproof to almost any power unit if you put in a steel pinion gear. the 03 does sit a little lower slung, the df03/tt02b alloy dampers are a great upgrade for both the 02 and especially the 03 as they give a fair bit of extra clearance. The plastic dogbones included with the dt03 i think are generally tougher and wear at a similar rate to the metal units provided with DT02. The metal units can bend and be damaged easily. Of course the upgraded metal cvd’s are made of higher quality steel and thus a great upgrade for both buggys. there is a variety if non tamiya rear tires you can fit that will have more grip and last longer than the hard Tamiya tires. My personal preference is for the DT03 but i have a soft spot for a DT02 desert gator, spent many a hour thrashing a gator. The main difference is the DT02 is more nimble but tends to spin out easily, especially on low grip. The DT03 is far more stable, maybe a bit pushy at times but you can be more agressive and use brakes for turning where the DT02 you’ll not want to touch the brakes near a corner. as for 4wd options i’d be tempted with a DF01 as a vintage (top force or manta ray) they are lovely handling old cars on rough ground and are relatively tough. Although if you fit high grip tires the transmission cannot cope with high power motors or alot of jumps. Even with mods the rear transmission case flexes and causes the gears to skip. That being said this is only a issue with non tamiya tires and or surfaces that provide very high grip with relatively high power. alternatively for a modern option the TD4 is a solid choice, it is a more advanced kit and will be far more challenging to build. It does need a couple of out of the gate upgrades like the diff screw nuts and not a bad idea to put the slipper clutch in from the start. I see no reason why it can’t be setup for general bashing with a little more clearance. I think i’d grab a DT first, TD can be the 3rd kit.