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Juls1

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Everything posted by Juls1

  1. The Traxxas system included in most new Traxxas cars is actually already quite good, it controls both steering and throttle input (so traction control to some extent) and can be tuned from the radio 0 to 100%. I’ve only got it on my unlimited desert racer, and given it needs slippery tyres to stop it traction rolling, and given it has a spool at the back I find about 15-20% stability management is a sweet spot, any more and it interferes way too much for my liking, and any less and it’s a real struggle to drive in a straight line under power, but it’s very happy to let you drift full opposite lock for as long as the longest corner you can find still. until I got the UDR I was a total no f’ing way and intended to ditch the radio ASAP but having tried it, realised the implementation actually adds fun and is constantly adjustable. I was mostly just amazed it actually worked. this being said I have not tried it on any other Traxxas model and I’ve got a 2wd slash/rustler/rustler 4x4/summit etc. but none of them had it when I bough them. as for the aftermarket units, I don’t know much about them I thought the gyros only really controlled the steering but I’m happy to be corrected.
  2. I’m running a 4000kv sensorless 5636 (proper one, not a 380 inside) on 7.4v with paddles. Stock diff, dogbones etc. Run for hours and hours and hours. Never had a problem. it’s an exceptional beach rail. I run the turnbuckle set for awhile but got sick of the balls popping off. Put the solid upper arms back on. I run SS turnbuckles where possible. Left front u pin in though. My aqroshot I keep bending the front stub axles, but it’s the same axles as any other Tamiya truck running 2.2” wheels so not really specific to dt03t. I’ve put aftermarket units on now but not tried them yet.
  3. The TT02B handles very nicely, it’s probably not so much the kickup but the overall design that lets it down when you try to drive over stuff it tends to just plough the front down, of course you get used to that quickly and just drive around it, The TL01B was a great buggy in some ways handling similar to DF01, but the TT02B is probably much stronger and certainly handles way better.
  4. The DF01 is a really great buggy, especially in top force evo guise. It jumps well, handles rough ground very well, overall grip and handling is ok, plenty for mucking about. The only downside is it’s drivetrain is slightly limited in how much power it can handle “in ultra high grip situations”. It is by no means a modern race buggy though. the TT02B is a pretty reasonable buggy but it really needs a number of upgrades to be decent. Handling wise it’s actually very good on level surfaces, quite modern in fact, it’s let down by its touring car chassis total lack of any front kickup which snags up on jump ramps and any other front on impact. It doesn’t jump very well but it does reward you when you occasionally get it right. DF03 is a overall upgrade from the DF01, it does physically handle better, and it’s suspension is improved and overall however it’s support in the aftermarket has dwindled to almost nothing in recent years, and it’s not without its flaws. It can fairly easily be turned into a fake df03MS given the body is the same and most of the basic parts are still available. DB01 is the best handling overall, is the stiffest and most accurate with the very best in race adjustments. But it’s also the most rare, and it’s a fairly big hole in the ground to hopup and with the hopup pool steadily diminishing that hole is easily 4 figures wide. if I had to live with one, it’d be a DF01 top force / evo for me.
  5. The only reason to go longer travel than the stock is if you want that scale max droop look over jumps or your driving on very very rough surfaces. I cannot imagine any racing scenario where further increasing the travel is any advantage. I keep saying the stock xv01 is the best option, it just works from day one. you can even fit the longer CVA mini shocks on the stock towers with the right ends if you want a tiny bit more travel.
  6. I grinded pretty much everything and anything that fouled including the suspension mounts, and the screws going through them, cut the droop screw mounts off altogether, grinded the chassis away dramatically. This is why I’ve always said if you go the long damper route then there is a lot of modding/grinding required if you want to access the maximum travel available when fitting the gf01 dampers. (And why the stock car is the best option for 90% of people) of course you can put spacers in the dampers to shorten them if you don’t want the extra downtravel. It’s worth remembering the gf01 damper has about 25% more stroke than the stock CVA mini included in the long damper kit, so adding spacers just puts you back where Tamiya intended you to be. The droop screws are a quick and easy fix too.
  7. The foam spacers that sit inside the diaphragm do reduce the capacity and therefore increase ramp up. You don’t have to use them, but they do help stop the diaphragm from being crushed to some extent. It’s just another tuning tool, to allow you to adjust the ramp up at the end stroke. It can be removed if you want less end point resistance.
  8. For the xv01T and XV01 conversion, the B parts and F parts are different. The xv01T is 255mm wheelbase vs 257mm this could explain the different F parts. The B parts have a different bumper, so you’d either have to cut it off or buy the right b parts. Your only up for about $15-20usd got both sprues but you’ll need body, wheels and tires, and you’ll be left with a pile of parts. the stock xv01 kit with body IMO is the best value and the best set and forget setup. If you want to make a super long travel version the XV01 long damper you can add GF01 alloy damper kit, and grind and cut like mad on the arms/mounts/knuckles and achieve full use of available damper travel, but you probably won’t want alloy suspension mounts in that case cause you have to grind 30% of them off. I run the carbon reinforced part, not broken it yet even with all the material missing. Unless you run crazy stiff springs (defeating the purpose) you’ll need the firm roll bars after all that to make it driveable without being upside down all the time on mildly grippy surfaces.
  9. The xv01 standard is still probably the best bet, the long damper isn’t that beneficial unless your looking to do significant modifications to allow a lot more travel, in standard form the long damper model probably offers about 10% more travel. The only difference is different towers and CVA mini instead of super mini, the stock xv01 super minis are fitted with long TRF shafts as standard that’s why there is very little travel difference. Unless you like tinkering (grinding, cutting etc) I see little value in the long damper. But you can always change a stock over later in. while the touring car model can be used off road, it does lose some ground clearance as it doesn’t have the buggy based front suspension anymore. The truck version has slightly different suspension parts that alters the wheelbase. Handling wise the xv01 is a immense step up from the TA01/02. The weight bias is totally different and the front heavy xv01 handles much more like a real car, and tail out slides actually look and feel realistic. The greatest effect is that it just goes where it’s front tyres are pointed. The overall chassis is at a higher level, the adjustability and precision is that of a top end race vehicle. While the xv01 handles scale sized jumps fantastically, any rear weight bias chassis is going to be better at doing unrealistic sized jumps. the TA01 is a great chassis based on the DF01, it’s essentially a off road buggy with short arms, but it’s also very old and difficult to get the setup precise and keep it that way. I don’t think you’ll be unhappy with the XV01, especially if your a rally car fan.
  10. About 6 months ago Ebay got flooded with overpriced tamiya items from Japan. I ended up stopping looking because 50% of the listings where this overpriced stuff from Japan.
  11. Just get the xv01 and pickup a Embie racing chassis for it, that allows rear battery mounting, that offsets the front weight bias quite nicely. most of the other touring cars people use they fit custom chassis anyway.
  12. I suggest DF03 alloy damper set. They are a touch longer so you get a bit more ground clearance and a bit more travel. The damping performance is superior to the CVA, very close to TRF. Pretty much any buggy damper sets from Tamiya can be made to fit anyway. If you want to go aftermarket I’ve had a good run from gmade XD, durability is very good but they are not quite as smooth or nice as a proper Tamiya unit.
  13. Brushed motors are great with the right weight car, right esc and right gearing. My preference is brushed on my crawlers, in particular newer 5 pole models are exceptional in crawler situations. I get frustrated however with cooking brushed motors because I wanted to run a heavier tire or use a lipo and the kit has no real gearing options. Brushless motors can also be finicky, and cheap brushless setups are often poorer performance than brushed arrangements, particularly sensored ones, but get the combination right and the performance and reliability is miles ahead of anything brushed. But it costs more. it’s really difficult to beat a hobbywing 1060 and a 550 closed can for value for money. But it never lasts well for me so that is usually left for occasional use stuff. my preference is brushless, but part of that is being able to afford reasonable quality equipment.
  14. Dt03 suspension parts (not including towers) are the same, the gearbox is identical. the chassis and shock towers differ. shocks wise any Tamiya buggy damper set should fit. Juls
  15. In Australia a business needs to turn over $70k before they are required to charge and collect GST. The government simply tracks incoming parcels and when there is high volume that international business is required to collect gst. I’d say Rcjaz either isn’t doing enough volume or is still flying under the radar. Not sure on the process for UK but I’m sure it’s not too dissimilar.
  16. From memory I had it installed but didn’t use it. Juls
  17. If you can find one, XV01 Pro TC is actually good value for money. Body will drop straight on. there was a recent re release, but not much stock about now. The Type SR would be my next choice.
  18. If they are the same abisma 45c lipo’s I had, those where the worst batterys I’ve ever owned. I also had some nvision 45c lipo’s and again terrible. lipos can be a bit fickle, some styles of packs can be dramatically better than the rest. The figures and ratings on the packs seems to have little bearing on how good they really will be. I’ve had a lot of luck with 20c and 30c cells from varying manufacturers including nvision and turnigy. I hate nimh battery’s, nothing will convince me to use nimh over lipo for my “personal use”. but I miss Sanyo nicads, they where the best. Sadly I can’t buy those anymore. nimh is still the best option when gifting rc to children or the uninitiated. Lipo’s are just too fickle to proper care and so very easy to destroy if you don’t know what your doing.
  19. So the fighter buggy rx was my first actual Tamiya that I owned as a 14 year old. So I was quite excited when they said a re release. Was momentarily disappointed when I saw the black body but moments later was very happy with the looks. I already have a nib original so why do i need a identical re release. Now I get to have 2!!
  20. The cc01 dampers are identical to gf01 dampers bar the color. Like 100% identical. the df03 front damper is too short and rear too long for cc01 so fingers crossed they come with something in between or a totally new damper.
  21. Pity they didn’t make a mf02x for this release with the engine just behind the front wheels (since in front no bodys would fit) oh well, TA03 one way diff up front then, get that heavy butt to come round.
  22. If your looking for a rally chassis the xv01 is the most realistic handling of any chassis on the market with its front engine layout it gives the most realistic slide characteristics both in looks and feel. Particularly when the body is ment to be rwd this comes further into play. while the TT02 can be made off-road ready, for what it is, it can never be made to drive like the xv01 does. The XV01 pivots on its front axle, much like a real 1:1 front engine car does. The issue with cars like TT02 and TA02 is they are mid/rear engined and that weight bias leads to the whole car unrealistically drifting in a sort of mid centric manner, while that’s fun, it’s not as fun as the car drifting in a more realistic manner as it does on the xv01. on the other hand rear weight bias chassis like TT02 and TA02 are easier to jump with less driver skills and input. So I guess it depends on what you want from the car.
  23. https://store.rc4wd.com/RC4WD-Dick-Cepek-Fun-Country-155-Scale-Tires_p_4052.html I’ve had a lot of success with these tyres, the combo of lug size and compound. Under a heavy truck it looks like you’ve got flat tyres but it gives a very big footprint that has huge grip on loose/slippery or wet surfaces, the truck is nearly unstoppable. They are about 10-15mm bigger than stock Tamiya tyres (so about 5-7.5mm more clearance) they fit under most Tamiya shells with very little trimming. they are out of stock at rc4wd, but there is still sellers about with stock. I think they may be discontinuing them. The one thing you don’t want is huge big lugs in the tread, as that stiffens the whole carcass and prevents the tyre conforming to the terrain and ultimately equals less traction in almost every scenario. another tyre they make that is similar and more modern but slightly shorter and narrower is this model. https://store.rc4wd.com/RC4WD-Falken-Wildpeak-AT3W-155-Scale-Tires_p_7001.html Or for similar size and width https://store.rc4wd.com/Compass-MT-155-Scale-Tires_p_7757.html There is few if any 1.9” high quality crawler tyres under 100mm so generally they don’t work on tamiyas unless your happy with the monster truck look. I have a lot of crawler tyres, I’ve tried many small crawler tyres that will fit under our cc01/2’s and I can’t find anything better than a 1.55” x2ss compound rc4wd models. Yes they are crazy expensive. But I’ve never worn a set out (or even 1% tread loss for that matter). Recently I grabbed a set of the Austar 1.55” tyres and wheels off eBay, they are good looking and really nice for the money but the tyre compound is fairly hard and the carcass has been reinforced so it could be used as a 1/14 scale truck tyre carrying a heavy load. The reinforcing is such I’m considering them for my Dakar rally rig as they have the right proportions and will work at 40-50km/h (something a crawler tyre should not be able to do) the wheels are quite thin and very lightweight. Great for speed but bad for a crawler. They are however still a upgrade over stock Tamiya efforts. I think they’d be great on a trailer as the carcass will carry a decent amount of weight while still looking the part. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-55-Wheel-Rim-Tire-Tyre-for-1-10-RC-D90-TF2-CC01-LC70-MST-Axial-90069-JIMNY/133364330635?hash=item1f0d22308b:g:Ia4AAOSwAJhecbZs I also played with the mst soft compound 1.9” crawler tyre and they are good value, but are really just about oem Traxxas level, not high end but way way better than stock Tamiya. A good option for a basic budget upgrade on a stock plastic rim. https://www.rcmart.com/mst-30x90mm-1-9inch-km-30degree-soft-crawler-rubber-tire-2-pcs-for-1-10-rc-crawler-831006-00082838 I have some pit bull xtreme rock beast 1.55” on the way, be interesting to compare to the myriad of other brands I’ve tried. as for your cc01 shocks, it’s hard to beat the genuine cc01 alloy damper. It has about 20-25% more stroke than the stock CVA mini. Springs wise the trf501x front spring kits are very soft, next firmest is the trf201 front spring kit. Both fit straight onto the CC01 alloy damper. The stock front springs are heavier than anything included in the trf201 set, but the stock cc01 rears are about the softest in the 201 set or firmest in the 501 set. Of course there is also the cc01 barrel spring set. I have them but I don’t use them.
  24. I think i'm up about the 80 rc kits stage (about 65 are tamiya) storage is becoming a issue. new kits being released is becoming annoying
  25. Generally a ball diff works better in low traction situations, where a gear diff is more useful in high traction situations. in many cases people run locked diffs on m03/5, this is why gear diffs with heavy oil are quite popular to those looking for the performance of a locked with somewhat less of a drawbacks.
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