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Everything posted by Juls1

  1. The Car has been finished I've only run it a couple of times. It is very very nice to drive, I think I do prefer it on dirt to the XV01, easier to drive, tons of grip, suspension works well, and it still slides 95% as realistically as the XV01. and 100% more realistic than a TT02 (or any other 50/50 car) It handles jumps much better than XV01. I think I'd still go with the XV01 for a street basher where I'm not doing unrealistic jumps. One thing to note, I ended up ditching the Big Bores and went back to the stock shocks, I honestly think they work better, I had a hard time getting the right ratio of damping and spring tension for the car to work properly with the big bores, ultimately they are not designed for the XV02, they just happen to be the same length. The Big bore springs are designed either for 4wd or 2wd buggys, which gives 6 different springs to choose from, however I just find it works better on the stock DF03 style damper. I'm still annoyed with them for not using the GF01 shocks and shorter shock towers so we could keep standard body fitting, there would have been no performance deficit to the DF03 damper as they are the same bar a 2mm stroke deficit which gets shimmed out of the DF03 front damper anyway. But I reckon they deliberately made it like they did to take the big bore dampers, It was a somewhat popular/common upgrade on the XV01LD to put buggy big bores on it, but with that super heavy front end I think they where more benefit there than they are on the XV02. But I guess it keeps them making those shocks. Juls
  2. I think I’m the outlier here. Once a kit is done I cut them up asap and put them in the recycling…..
  3. I’ve run TA01/2, TT02/S, XV01 and XV02. i would not bother with the others, the xv02 is the best rig, if your only doing dirt part of the time the RS might be a better option. if i was building something for smoother surfaces and playing/bashing fun was the name if the game the xv01 does edge out the XV02 “in fun handling” but the xv02 overall handling is superior, its off road ability and suspension is totally superior. the XV01 takes alot of cutting and grinding parts to make it super off road capable, particularly if you want to min/max the suspension travel with longer shocks. The XV02 has all that sorted out from the factory, no need to do mods, it comes with the best in slot shocks. The ability to add a centre diff is a game changer. the comment above about the xv01 being simpler than the xv02, i don’t agree. The xv01 takes alot of work to make it very off road capable. The xv02 is sorted out of the box. Basically nothing to do.
  4. In off road 2wd buggys for racing we rarely use gear diffs in slippery or bumpy tracks unless the individual just has bad luck assembling ball diffs. Generally only use gear diffs on high grip tracks like carpet or well groomed indoor clay. The reason is the ball diff has a more linear diff out and is more predictable on loose or rough surfaces. Ultimately equals more grip in low traction situations. Gear diffs tend to build tension and then let go less predictably, we try to remedy this using different weight oils but it equals a loss of diff action at lower pressures making the car harder to handle in low traction situations. The trf201 diffs where very reliable when built properly. Thankfully the diff included with the td02/04 and the bb01 are basically identical to a trf201 diff assuming you have the metal diff nut. i raced my td2 with the ball diff for an entire season (5 x 5 min races x 10 meetings plus practice) and didn’t touch it at all the whole time and its still fine. I’ve never had a oil filled gear diff last that long without springing a leak. if your bashing on high grip surfaces with a brushless then go the gear diff. If your bashing on loose surfaces like gravel, dirt tracks. The ball diff should be fine and is possibly a better option.
  5. So TBG officially have my Leonis shell. They said bodys will be available early next year. So I guess you could preorder one if your keen.
  6. The xerun motors. Have 6 mount holes, so technically 6 different directions the motor can mount. I now realise if you only have 2 mount holes in the motor, then yes you could struggle to find the sweet spot.
  7. You’ll need the diff nut, the ball diff is basically identical to a trf201x ball diff, I run a season racing stock and never needed to touch it, it’s a very good ball diff. a slipper clutch is a good idea to help on slippery surfaces and reduces wheelies when landing jumps with the power on. I ran a hobbywing v10 g4 in stock class, i had no issues mounting it with its top mounted binding posts. I’m not sure why people keep saying that top wire motors can’t fit, although there may not be enough room if you want to run tubes on the motor instead of directly soldering. It’s a good little car, I enjoyed racing it in stock class last season.
  8. They still exist. https://www.rcjaz.com.au/tamiya-m05-extension-wheel-base-kit-257mm-3racing-m0531lb-p-90015718.html Add a TL01LA kit (or the yeah racing wr02/gf01 kit) and you get a pretty capable setup.
  9. Nimh and nicad chargers will continue to charge until they see a voltage drop which signals that the battery can take no more capacity. With nimh being set more sensitive than nicad chargers. You may notice the charger slows down near the max voltage as it notices a voltage drop it drops off the current until it pack reaches the pre determined allowable voltage drop at all current settings. The max voltage is generally around 1.5v per cell. What you saw is fairly normal, you should see up to 9v from a 6 cell pack charging, although it’s sometimes lower with ageing batterys lipo’s are different where we need to fix the charging end point at 4.2v per cell to prevent damage. Unless they are HV cells in which case it’s 4.3v per cell.
  10. Both Australian and UK governments are forcing international company’s to do this. I noticed it occurring simultaneously. While I don’t know if PJ are collecting Australian GST yet. Here in Australia any business with a turnover of $70,000 Australian dollars or more must legally collect GST. So customs records the value and qty of parcels coming through and then forces the international company’s to collect GST from Australian customers if they want to continue trading in Australia. So far for me it’s been, eBay, aliexpress, amazon, buyee and rcmart all charging/collecting GST. This is only going to get more and more as time goes on. But what it does do is makes you double think is it going to be competitive buying it locally, which for me if we are talking current models is almost always better buying kits locally. This didn’t used to be the case. However there is still little choice when it comes to parts. They don’t exist here.
  11. 17t is 9.3:1 the 19T is 8.3:1 its 0.8 module (32p) so a few teeth does make a fair difference. It will depend a lot on the surface but I melted a few 12T 550 motors in my holiday buggy (dt02) both running 7.4v lipo. All I can say is monitor it closely, my experience was I killed one motor on its first pack, the other was about 6/7 packs in. I think the surface made all the difference, and the run times were fairly long on 5000mah packs.
  12. I had the same issue with the yeah racing 550 motors had to dremel the end off the shaft. Also had to remove the motor sleeve. the 19t might be geared a bit high for the titan 12T, you can burn them up if you load them up too much.
  13. I’ve been racing the td2 for awhile now, on an off road clay track, that’s generally dry and fairly rough, but hard surface. IE: very slippery. I generally get 4th and 5th in a 10-12 car pack, sometimes 3rd. I’m the only tamiya the rest are associated/losi/X-ray/pr racing. the car is very heavy at the rear, despite the forward rear motor. This makes it less great on high traction and better in proper off road tracks. i found the car wants to jump nose high, so I use the lowest wing mount with a TRF201 wing trimmed so the tyres miss it. I don’t know what tamiya are smoking with that wing mount on the carbon tower. But it’s too high IMO. Given I race on low traction the ball diff is the only option, It’s been maintainence free for me so far. My slipper is also set quite light. I run a hobbywing xerun g10 v4 17.5T with a justock esc. It’s a very fast setup, I often get comments on how fast it is on the straights I think it’s partially the 3 gear tranny, and mostly how good the latest hobbywing race motors are. This motor has side tabs to solder, I was initially worried it wouldn’t fit after reading here some thoughts that top tab motors won’t fit. Actually it fits just fine. No problems at all. it is a nice car to drive, right up there with the DN01. If you’ve got any questions feel free to ask.
  14. If it’s true that’s a shame. The one thing glen cannot afford is to divide the minimal community he already has. I’d be interested to hear the other sides of the story.
  15. Seems like you’ve got it mostly sorted. I noted in your first vid, you had toe in at the front. toe in will cause the car to push as you enter the corner then grip as you exit the corner, this can lead to loop outs mid corner. Running tow out gives far more initial turn in grip at the start of the corner but will push slightly on exit, generally toe out is easier to drive. i also noted your running camber adjustable top links. Make sure you’re running negative 1-3 deg in the rear and negative 0-2 deg in the front. more importantly ensure that the camber left to right is identical. This does not mean the camber links are equal length, that makes an assumption that the car is perfectly square. Generally that’s unlikely on Tamiyas cheaper models you’ll need to measure the camber with a testing device. If you have different camber left to right the tell tale sign is that it handles differently turning left or right. If you’re pushing turning left and spinning out turning right then your camber settings left to right are unlikely to be the same. there is little else you can change, generally as you’ve found lowering the rear and lifting the front slightly can help balance the chassis and increase rear grip in corners.
  16. The car is quite lightweight as far as crawlers go, this does wonders for the suspension if you intend to use the kit at moderate speeds. But it’s unhelpful for general crawling/trailing. I ended up adding brass steering knuckles and then internal wheel weights on 1.55” steel wheels and rc4wd crawler tyres. The chassis is a really capable crawler/trail rig then. But it does depend on what you want from the car.
  17. I hate painting and decal work too. Love the mechanical side. Got a number of unfinished bodys sitting. Just like you.
  18. I’m racing the TD2, I know for a fact I’d be struggling to get any of my dt03’s around the track fast enough to not just come last. The TD2 is well layed out and runs well on low grip off road tracks(assuming you set it up properly), it has roll centre adjustments front and back, option rear mount for toe and anti squat, alternate front caster blocks to alter front caster. The level of adjustability is huge. I don’t know why people compare the TD2 to the DT03, they are worlds apart performance wise. There is no comparison really. I’m not sure what tamiya did wrong marketing wise for people to think the DT03 is comparable, because it just isn’t. The TD2 is a viable entry level race chassis (if you ignore the price). The DT03 is not. You will need the alloy diff nut, the stock ball diff is an excellent diff overall once you’ve got the alloy diff nut. I’ve done 8 race weekends and never had to look at it once. It’s the same quality as what comes with a trf201. For slippery dry clay tracks it’s really the best option. If you run high grip you may get better results from the oil filled gear diff although making the gear diff oil too heavy will make the steering horrible. If I was to critique the car I’d say it is a fraction too heavy out back which is why it isn’t as good on high grip race tracks.
  19. Been running xv01 since it first came out, never had the gearbox out. Has done every kind of abusive driving you could imagine. I have broken the plastic suspension mounts, I also broke the carbon reinforced mounts. Alloy ones fixed it for me. To be fair I only broke the mounts by actually hitting something immovable at speed on an angle. Neither the arm or pin or any other parts got damaged. In those kinds of impacts something has to break. The mount is cheap and upgradeable. I wouldn’t call a xv01 an expensive kit. Compared to buying a TT02 it’s very cheap given what it comes with and the performance increase.
  20. I’ve been racing the TD2 for awhile now, it’s fine on low grip off road tracks, but it is still a little too much rear weight bias. In terms of adjustability and general design quality it’s not actually short on much. While I’m not trying to win I’m having no issues staying mid pack amongst supposedly superior company. While I’d still call it mid level, it should never be compared to DT chassis, that’s not what it is. It’s closer to a DN01 but it’s missing a TRF sibling. what id like to see is a 4wd racing buggy based on the XV02 platform. Pretty easy, make a longer chassis, put long arms on it, tall shock towers. I don’t think you should call it a db03, because there is no TRF basis. But the layout is essentially proven and highly adaptable. as for a 2wd racing chassis, just re release the trf211xm. It’s not far enough out of date to prevent me racing it.
  21. 110w is a big soldering iron! Are you sure it’s that powerful? I’ve seen many adjustable soldering stations claim big numbers but are actually only 25w or less. I use a 25w station for most general stuff but when soldering 12awg I always reach for my 80w cheapy, it’s just easier. You need loads of current at fairly high temps to be able to heat quickly enough to get a good tin happening. If it’s too low power and heat then you end up heating too slowly and the wire will conduct the heat down it’s length too fast for you to get it hot enough to get the solder flowing. The lumpiness is because the wire isn’t getting hot enough to melt the solder and make it adhere. Sometimes there can be contaminants on the wire that causes the solder to wick away. the wrong solder will make life very hard, I suggest picking up a few different ones in small amounts, trying them all, some will be easier than others. Then stick to what works for you. I’ve not found that sticking to specifications alone gives consistent results, some brands still seem better than others I don’t know why. Make sure the solder is specifically for electrical use. if your trying to solder plugs, particularly like xt90, make sure you have the male and female connected together when you solder one side, this dramatically reduces the risk of melting the plug and moving the pin accidentally. Make sure both plug and wire is well tinned before trying to mate them. Again having a higher power soldering iron will let you rapidly heat the immediate area to get a fast tin without heating everything else up. For applications under 12awg a 25 watt is generally plenty, but it’s often not quite enough for the 12awg wires and connectors we use.
  22. I’m not aware of a composite cap that fits. If you don’t put bottom out spacers on the shaft then you may damage the bladder because the physical shaft is too long. That being said in order for that to happen you’d need to totally bottom out the shaft on the top cap. This can still happen if you remove the bladder and it’s not ideal. The top cap and the damper piston are not designed to hit each other. Building the shock in this way is just failing to use some common sense. The shock should bottom out on the spring retention first. For this reason just install enough spacers on the shaft before the bottom cap to stop this happening. If you are following the instructions it does actually show how many spacers for each car but additionally just use a little common sense, check where the shaft end point is, add enough spacers to prevent internal bottom out.
  23. Nimh generally pretty safe, I have had them fail, but it’s considerably rarer. I don’t think you need to do anything specific however I would remove them from the car after use just in case there is some iron stones or something like that, that might short the pack out. Additionally I prefer to recharge them to about 30% for long term storage. Never store nimh fully charged or discharged for very long periods tends to ruin there capacity if you do. I generally am not too concerned about my lipo’s in terms of storage unless I feel there is an issue with the pack. the thing is I always know my battery’s are stored between 25 and 75% charge and don’t have faulty cells, I never store flat lipo’s, and never store charged ones. Lipo’s don’t magically catch on fire if stored correctly and are not faulty. storing lipo’s fully charged or completely flat long term will cause them to fail. now if a pack is getting sad, one cell of the pack isn’t keeping up or there is any type of puffing. Then I generally dispose of them, or at least store them out of the house in a fire safe container. the reason people have house fires with their e scooters and whatnot is because they have multi cell packs that are enclosed and are not individually cell managed. One cell dies, next time you put it on charge, that cell blows up, taking the rest with it. Probably house and all. (Additionally people probably run the scooter flat, then turn it off and on and it goes a bit further, do that over and over till it’s properly dead, leading to at least one cell failing) we have the benefit of being able to monitor our cells with our chargers, as well as physical inspection. But the downside is we do push our cells to their limits both in charge and discharge, so our rc packs are more likely to fail if we are not paying attention. it’s worth keeping in mind, full size electric cars like teslas have both charge and discharge cycles limited so the pack can never ever be fully charged or ever be fully discharged. That’s how they achieve somewhat long term reliability with so many cells. If you never over discharge and never overcharge your cells they will last a long time. I’ve got a few 15 year old 2 cell packs that are still going strong and making full capacity every charge, I’ve never kept them in a fireproof container in the house. It’s just about understanding your lipo’s and storing them partially charged. It’s actually really easy.
  24. I wanted a TRF211XM for a long time, I waited too long. Now they don’t exist…..
  25. I was given cheaper options “after” the auction process. Once buyee had received the item and actually could measure the package. I was offered 7 different freight options, including sea freight. in my case it was a entire second hand car, freight options where $40-130 AUD across the 7 choices. process for me was, win auction, money instantly taken upon auction end. seller shipped to buyee. Buyee received and the offered me the freight options and any other things that needed sorting. Then i paid my choices and item was sent in 24hrs. note for Australians, buyee is registered for GST so you will be charged gst. But this means you won’t be liable at Australian customs.
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