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Juls1

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Everything posted by Juls1

  1. If you can find them, the pistons from the hicap mini are stiffer and a tighter fit than the actual CVA pistons and seem to be a bit smoother running. the CVA’s work really well on the CC02 because they are mounted vertically so there is very little lateral load on them. In vehicles with heavily angled shocks, a better quality shock makes a lot more difference. That being said plenty of aftermarket units don’t work well with lateral loads either, even if they look fancy on the outside.
  2. CC01 uses a 70mm shock CC02 uses a 90mm shock Tamiya don't currently offer a set of 4 alloy shocks for the CC02, I messed about alot with various Gmade dampers, and yeah racing and various others, in the end, I put some Hi Cap mini pistons and some CVA piston type shafts and switched to single O ring with a TRF Nylon bush in my stock shocks and am very happy with that setup. The stock shocks seemed to outperform basically everything I could come up with aftermarket. Tamiya do offer a Big Bore damper in the right length but the cost is crazy and uncertain if they make soft enough springs. I'm waiting for tamiya to build and supply a proper set for the time being, but I'm happy with my current arrangement. In the past tamiya have made sets that might have worked, like 54109, 53492, 54472.. as I say, these "MIGHT" work. There is HEAPS of aftermarket options, but I wasted heaps of money and ended up back at the stock shocks and just upgraded there internals slightly, thats the setup I'm happy with now.
  3. I should be doing a build thread on this kit in a few weeks, I’ve been down the road of trying to improve the front suspension, but nothing really works as well as the stock parts grinded a bit. I tried the TL01LA parts like was on the tamiyausa website, but actually this design leads to less travel and less steering, because the c hub has to droop down inside the arm, there is little droop capability, from a crawling perspective it doesn’t work. The TRF suspension on the TT02S suffers the same issue. the front end really needs to be restarted from scratch with an ball pivot style front end to really make some gains.
  4. If you want something that has a gearbox that can handle general brushless power it’s hard to beat DT02/3 (same gearbox) I’ve never had any ingress with any of my DT’s, and they get thoroughly abused with paddle tires and serious uncontrolable idiot brushless power. I really love the way the DF01 drives in Top Force or manta Ray guise but the gearbox can’t handle a lot of power combined with a lot of grip. No amount of mods seem to help. However if you stick to brushed or about a 13.5t sensored it’s perfectly fine. But I wouldn’t strap anything sensorless in it, been there, done that... nope. Juls
  5. I have a set of them in 80mm, they worked ok when mounted vertical, but mounted on any mild angle they are pretty terrible, I was really really disappointed as I’d heard a lot of good things about the sub 60mm versions. I’m wondering if they’ve changed the seal/guide system on the new 90/100mm to stop the piston dragging so much if you mount them on a slight angle (like all off road shocks are). I think it’s a non issue on the shorter shocks, but as they get longer there is more leverage on the shaft when it’s fully extended allowing the piston to be forced hard against the wall of the shock body. will wait to see.
  6. No balldiff is perfect, but the 502 gear is the only part that’s plastic, and it’s carbon reinforced plastic, much harder and more durable than the white plastic units supplied with the Stock DB01. With the DB02 they just dropped the 502 diff in unchanged, they didn’t try to make a cheaper version. For a basher a gear diff would be more durable no question of that. I’m wondering how much material needs to come out of the cases to make the TB04 gear work.
  7. Unlike the DB01, the DB02 runs TRF502 diffs, not the all plastic things in the DB01. If your not too silly with full power jump landings things should be ok, but I will say that the parts are drying up, it’d be prudent to wait till you have a functioning slipper clutch anyway. I thought there seemed to be plenty of slipper clutches around when I looked recently.
  8. here is my DB02, they are a deep hole to dig into, not least because new stock of the kits has dried up now. The only serious weakness was the rear centre dogbone arrangement because it runs on a odd angle, replacing it with the universal centre drive shafts solves that. The main centre gearbox is fine if you use some common sense and shim it right. But it’s not perfect enough out if the box to work to the manual build, you need to use a bit of common sense/mechanical sense and then there isn’t a problem. for a Tamiya buggy collector I think it’s very important kit to own, but if your buying one planning to properly race it, then your better off going to the track and see what buggy the best guys at that track are running right now and get one of those. It’s more likely to suit the modern racetrack and your likely to be able to buy parts and keep it going. I love the way the DB buggy’s drive, they are both great, but they are getting old and the parts are drying up. For a sensible and skilled driver they make a great light basher for just enjoying the overall handling. But 30ft jumps and backflips that will probably end with a $150 freight bill for a $10 part. if you must run one, the DB01 is slightly better supported right now.
  9. I’m not going to make a list because it will at least be as big as yours gotta stop buying. Start completing existing projects
  10. The Tamiya 15.5T is a solid motor, I’ve always been happy with the performance, have them in several models and it fits all Tamiya cars. I’ve had the same issue in many Tamiya chassis with the top based tabs.
  11. I reckon that car is gonna be one of those chassis that appears NIB on ebay for a silly price, and no one buys it. and All the people with one to sell are watching that one to see when it sells so they can put theirs on ebay, so the cycle goes, everyone keeps there wantanabes.
  12. Juls1

    Piano XV-03

    So the pics are working now! Dunno why lol are you planning to run it off road? Just wondered because those gmade XD have about 60% the travel of Tamiya’s gf01 or cc01 dampers that are normally used in the long damper Kits. Have been through all that before. removing those red bottom out bumpers should get some of that stroke back. You’ll also probably want to invest in some softer springs for the back, possibly firmer up front. Sadly Tamiya springs won’t work on gmade XD or I could suggest I’d suggest trf201 and 501 front spring kits. But gmade does offer firmer and softer springs. That is all assuming the idea is to run off road in low grip scenarios. looking pretty good, I wonder how that kyosho 15.5t stacks up against the Tamiya 15.5t.
  13. Juls1

    Piano XV-03

    Any ideas why your pictures are the only ones on tamiyaclub that won’t load for me? Tried Firefox, chrome and safari. No luck. It’s like I’m regionally blocked or something.
  14. For building new kits it’s Tamiya 74093, flush cuts all your sprue parts off, never need to do trimming ever again. https://www.tamiya.com/english/products/74093modelers_cutter/index.htm They also make exceptional wire cutters/strippers, but the main thing is there edge is flush so you get the part minus its nib every time.
  15. Try the TA01/DF01 hubs, they are dual 5x11 versions of the cc01/Ta02/3 hubs. incidently yeah racing’s TA01/2/df01 alloy units are dual 5x11. not saying they will fit, just saying if the cc01 looked right but you need dual 5x11 that’s going to be the closest fit. Juls
  16. the hicap damper fronts are 71mm without internal spacers and the short eyelet and stock shaft. They actually didn't fit many of the chassis from that era, at least not without jacking up the vehicle. Check my buggy damper thread for more info on lengths.
  17. the yeah racing 12T/21T/35T 550 motors have very long shafts, I have to cut the ends off to get them to work with DT02/03, and anything else with a gearbox cover. The 12T motors have similar performance to a properly setup 13.5T sensored brushless https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-hackmoto-550-12t-brushed-motor-mt-0029-00078051 Juls
  18. I just make a new folder for each build thread. I’ve not noticed any limits. You do need to pay attention when you upload that it goes to the right folder. it will generate whatever type of link to the photo you want, so your threads can be made seemless without any hint that it’s not hosted directly. it is free, so I guess getting an account and having a test run will only cost you a hour or so.
  19. tcphotos.net is the semi official Tamiya Club photos hosting, since I used up my 50mb on tamiyaclub forum I’ve been using this service. The best part for me is that it works perfectly well from my phone or tablet, meaning I can upload photos directly then post them later either from my phone or PC. id assume as long as tamiyaclub is live that the tcphotos.net service will also be. You just need to contact netsmith either through tamiyaclub or directly from tcphotos. I will say however that contacting him through tamiyaclub can be very slow to get a response (potentially weeks) when I contacted him through tcphotos.net website I had my account up and running in a matter of hours, I did mention my username on tamiyaclub, I assume that is a requirement. im not aware of any costs as such? Juls
  20. There was talk about it, but it hasn’t happened yet. https://www.abf.gov.au/buying-online/importing-by-post-or-mail the problem with trying to collect gst or duties on small parcels is the cost of processing/employing people to do it. That’s why it was raised from $200 to $1000, because it was too expensive to try and collect taxes on each parcel. if our gst jumped to 15 or 20% (Which is overdue) then they might lower it, I can’t see it happening before then.
  21. As I said, you’ve bought the damper shafts out of 54505 big bore aeration damper set instead of getting the shafts included in 54028 Regular aeration damper set, which “Might“ be more suitable. I can’t find a parts list online otherwise I’d provide you with the other part number assuming Tamiya sells that part separate. I’ll keep looking though. ultimately though what you’ve got is as far I can tell from the hopup video Tamiya posted on YouTube is the part they recommend. I can’t see a part number, but they say hop up shaft for TRF501x, which is the 54043 so who knows. what’s interesting is they then put them in the regular bodys, so why the shaft included in the narrow body shocks is different I don’t know
  22. Those Gold shafts are ment to have a larger piston, which is slight thicker, So you’ll want a 3mm shim kit to remove any backlash. as for the length, I don’t think that 1mm will make much difference, you can easily make up the difference with the eyelet end. If I’m not mistaken you’ve got the shafts from big bore aeration dampers (54505) which use 12mm pistons, instead of the shafts from the regular aeration dampers (54028) Which use a 10mm piston the same as the touring shocks. you’ve got 2 options, either persist with those ones and get some shims, or try track down the other shafts. personally I’d just go with option 1 since you’ve already got them. again I don’t understand why Tamiya don’t release a specific part, or for that matter release an actual damper kit. Juls
  23. so If you buy something off rcmart on ebay then YES "ebay" will charge you GST. If you buy directly from rcmart, then no you won't pay any GST. Rcmart does not operate directly within Australia, if they opened a warehouse here, then they would have to charge GST. While the government have forced Ebay and Amazon to apply GST to international sales, because they are 1. Operating within Australia, and 2. Facilitate the sale of the item through there service. As a result they legally have to be registered for GST, and apply it to international transactions through there service, and collect it on behalf of the government. so If you buy something off rcmart on ebay then YES "ebay" will charge you GST. If you buy directly from rcmart website, then no you won't pay any GST. if the order is under $1000 AUD "including freight" it does not attract any GST or customs dutys when entering Australia for private use. Simply put, if your in Australia and buying stuff on ebay from international businesses that have there own website you can order from, your costing yourself an extra 10% (possibly more, as most businesses sell a bit more expensive on ebay).
  24. FedEx kits are getting to rural Australia 5-7 days (4-5 for built up areas) Have had about 5 kits through no worries since COVID started. regular shipping is still around 3-4 weeks, without passenger planes in the air, there is not enough planes to put the freight on, so can take a very long time to get to you. the smaller parcels seem to come quicker that way than the bigger ones. The difference is fedex have hundreds of their own planes, and access to thousands of other freight partners planes. It’s only the freight company’s with their own planes that are able to maintain reasonable delivery times, however what happens in your country with regards to delivery once it arrives is dictated more by the state of COVID as a whole where you live.
  25. I don’t know the specifics of how Tamiya functions, but I know exactly what you mean, chances are there is still hundreds of those parts kicking about but sadly only a small handful of hobby stores list what they have in stock online. additionally it can be the case that the main stream online retailers are not restocking despite the parts being available to order. something I’ve done in the past is contact various hobby stores in different parts of the world and asked if they can order things for me, and eventually I find a hobby store who’s local supplier still has stock of the bits I need. The downside of this process is that you have little power over controlling the price. But I’ve found some very very rare parts this way, and given the scarcity the pricing still feels reasonable. it’s sometimes the case that Tamiya’s can burn our pockets badly, especially the old ones. But I’ve long since accepted if I need it, and the only one available is expensive but I can afford it, then I gotta have it anyway. Obviously if the part is idiotically priced 5-10x it’s value by an annoying person, then I just leave it there. If your holding out for a bargain then I think you may not find those parts unless Tamiya does another manufacturing run on them.
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