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Juls1

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Everything posted by Juls1

  1. I’ve been racing the td2 for awhile now, on an off road clay track, that’s generally dry and fairly rough, but hard surface. IE: very slippery. I generally get 4th and 5th in a 10-12 car pack, sometimes 3rd. I’m the only tamiya the rest are associated/losi/X-ray/pr racing. the car is very heavy at the rear, despite the forward rear motor. This makes it less great on high traction and better in proper off road tracks. i found the car wants to jump nose high, so I use the lowest wing mount with a TRF201 wing trimmed so the tyres miss it. I don’t know what tamiya are smoking with that wing mount on the carbon tower. But it’s too high IMO. Given I race on low traction the ball diff is the only option, It’s been maintainence free for me so far. My slipper is also set quite light. I run a hobbywing xerun g10 v4 17.5T with a justock esc. It’s a very fast setup, I often get comments on how fast it is on the straights I think it’s partially the 3 gear tranny, and mostly how good the latest hobbywing race motors are. This motor has side tabs to solder, I was initially worried it wouldn’t fit after reading here some thoughts that top tab motors won’t fit. Actually it fits just fine. No problems at all. it is a nice car to drive, right up there with the DN01. If you’ve got any questions feel free to ask.
  2. If it’s true that’s a shame. The one thing glen cannot afford is to divide the minimal community he already has. I’d be interested to hear the other sides of the story.
  3. Seems like you’ve got it mostly sorted. I noted in your first vid, you had toe in at the front. toe in will cause the car to push as you enter the corner then grip as you exit the corner, this can lead to loop outs mid corner. Running tow out gives far more initial turn in grip at the start of the corner but will push slightly on exit, generally toe out is easier to drive. i also noted your running camber adjustable top links. Make sure you’re running negative 1-3 deg in the rear and negative 0-2 deg in the front. more importantly ensure that the camber left to right is identical. This does not mean the camber links are equal length, that makes an assumption that the car is perfectly square. Generally that’s unlikely on Tamiyas cheaper models you’ll need to measure the camber with a testing device. If you have different camber left to right the tell tale sign is that it handles differently turning left or right. If you’re pushing turning left and spinning out turning right then your camber settings left to right are unlikely to be the same. there is little else you can change, generally as you’ve found lowering the rear and lifting the front slightly can help balance the chassis and increase rear grip in corners.
  4. The car is quite lightweight as far as crawlers go, this does wonders for the suspension if you intend to use the kit at moderate speeds. But it’s unhelpful for general crawling/trailing. I ended up adding brass steering knuckles and then internal wheel weights on 1.55” steel wheels and rc4wd crawler tyres. The chassis is a really capable crawler/trail rig then. But it does depend on what you want from the car.
  5. I hate painting and decal work too. Love the mechanical side. Got a number of unfinished bodys sitting. Just like you.
  6. I’m racing the TD2, I know for a fact I’d be struggling to get any of my dt03’s around the track fast enough to not just come last. The TD2 is well layed out and runs well on low grip off road tracks(assuming you set it up properly), it has roll centre adjustments front and back, option rear mount for toe and anti squat, alternate front caster blocks to alter front caster. The level of adjustability is huge. I don’t know why people compare the TD2 to the DT03, they are worlds apart performance wise. There is no comparison really. I’m not sure what tamiya did wrong marketing wise for people to think the DT03 is comparable, because it just isn’t. The TD2 is a viable entry level race chassis (if you ignore the price). The DT03 is not. You will need the alloy diff nut, the stock ball diff is an excellent diff overall once you’ve got the alloy diff nut. I’ve done 8 race weekends and never had to look at it once. It’s the same quality as what comes with a trf201. For slippery dry clay tracks it’s really the best option. If you run high grip you may get better results from the oil filled gear diff although making the gear diff oil too heavy will make the steering horrible. If I was to critique the car I’d say it is a fraction too heavy out back which is why it isn’t as good on high grip race tracks.
  7. Been running xv01 since it first came out, never had the gearbox out. Has done every kind of abusive driving you could imagine. I have broken the plastic suspension mounts, I also broke the carbon reinforced mounts. Alloy ones fixed it for me. To be fair I only broke the mounts by actually hitting something immovable at speed on an angle. Neither the arm or pin or any other parts got damaged. In those kinds of impacts something has to break. The mount is cheap and upgradeable. I wouldn’t call a xv01 an expensive kit. Compared to buying a TT02 it’s very cheap given what it comes with and the performance increase.
  8. I’ve been racing the TD2 for awhile now, it’s fine on low grip off road tracks, but it is still a little too much rear weight bias. In terms of adjustability and general design quality it’s not actually short on much. While I’m not trying to win I’m having no issues staying mid pack amongst supposedly superior company. While I’d still call it mid level, it should never be compared to DT chassis, that’s not what it is. It’s closer to a DN01 but it’s missing a TRF sibling. what id like to see is a 4wd racing buggy based on the XV02 platform. Pretty easy, make a longer chassis, put long arms on it, tall shock towers. I don’t think you should call it a db03, because there is no TRF basis. But the layout is essentially proven and highly adaptable. as for a 2wd racing chassis, just re release the trf211xm. It’s not far enough out of date to prevent me racing it.
  9. 110w is a big soldering iron! Are you sure it’s that powerful? I’ve seen many adjustable soldering stations claim big numbers but are actually only 25w or less. I use a 25w station for most general stuff but when soldering 12awg I always reach for my 80w cheapy, it’s just easier. You need loads of current at fairly high temps to be able to heat quickly enough to get a good tin happening. If it’s too low power and heat then you end up heating too slowly and the wire will conduct the heat down it’s length too fast for you to get it hot enough to get the solder flowing. The lumpiness is because the wire isn’t getting hot enough to melt the solder and make it adhere. Sometimes there can be contaminants on the wire that causes the solder to wick away. the wrong solder will make life very hard, I suggest picking up a few different ones in small amounts, trying them all, some will be easier than others. Then stick to what works for you. I’ve not found that sticking to specifications alone gives consistent results, some brands still seem better than others I don’t know why. Make sure the solder is specifically for electrical use. if your trying to solder plugs, particularly like xt90, make sure you have the male and female connected together when you solder one side, this dramatically reduces the risk of melting the plug and moving the pin accidentally. Make sure both plug and wire is well tinned before trying to mate them. Again having a higher power soldering iron will let you rapidly heat the immediate area to get a fast tin without heating everything else up. For applications under 12awg a 25 watt is generally plenty, but it’s often not quite enough for the 12awg wires and connectors we use.
  10. I’m not aware of a composite cap that fits. If you don’t put bottom out spacers on the shaft then you may damage the bladder because the physical shaft is too long. That being said in order for that to happen you’d need to totally bottom out the shaft on the top cap. This can still happen if you remove the bladder and it’s not ideal. The top cap and the damper piston are not designed to hit each other. Building the shock in this way is just failing to use some common sense. The shock should bottom out on the spring retention first. For this reason just install enough spacers on the shaft before the bottom cap to stop this happening. If you are following the instructions it does actually show how many spacers for each car but additionally just use a little common sense, check where the shaft end point is, add enough spacers to prevent internal bottom out.
  11. Nimh generally pretty safe, I have had them fail, but it’s considerably rarer. I don’t think you need to do anything specific however I would remove them from the car after use just in case there is some iron stones or something like that, that might short the pack out. Additionally I prefer to recharge them to about 30% for long term storage. Never store nimh fully charged or discharged for very long periods tends to ruin there capacity if you do. I generally am not too concerned about my lipo’s in terms of storage unless I feel there is an issue with the pack. the thing is I always know my battery’s are stored between 25 and 75% charge and don’t have faulty cells, I never store flat lipo’s, and never store charged ones. Lipo’s don’t magically catch on fire if stored correctly and are not faulty. storing lipo’s fully charged or completely flat long term will cause them to fail. now if a pack is getting sad, one cell of the pack isn’t keeping up or there is any type of puffing. Then I generally dispose of them, or at least store them out of the house in a fire safe container. the reason people have house fires with their e scooters and whatnot is because they have multi cell packs that are enclosed and are not individually cell managed. One cell dies, next time you put it on charge, that cell blows up, taking the rest with it. Probably house and all. (Additionally people probably run the scooter flat, then turn it off and on and it goes a bit further, do that over and over till it’s properly dead, leading to at least one cell failing) we have the benefit of being able to monitor our cells with our chargers, as well as physical inspection. But the downside is we do push our cells to their limits both in charge and discharge, so our rc packs are more likely to fail if we are not paying attention. it’s worth keeping in mind, full size electric cars like teslas have both charge and discharge cycles limited so the pack can never ever be fully charged or ever be fully discharged. That’s how they achieve somewhat long term reliability with so many cells. If you never over discharge and never overcharge your cells they will last a long time. I’ve got a few 15 year old 2 cell packs that are still going strong and making full capacity every charge, I’ve never kept them in a fireproof container in the house. It’s just about understanding your lipo’s and storing them partially charged. It’s actually really easy.
  12. I wanted a TRF211XM for a long time, I waited too long. Now they don’t exist…..
  13. I was given cheaper options “after” the auction process. Once buyee had received the item and actually could measure the package. I was offered 7 different freight options, including sea freight. in my case it was a entire second hand car, freight options where $40-130 AUD across the 7 choices. process for me was, win auction, money instantly taken upon auction end. seller shipped to buyee. Buyee received and the offered me the freight options and any other things that needed sorting. Then i paid my choices and item was sent in 24hrs. note for Australians, buyee is registered for GST so you will be charged gst. But this means you won’t be liable at Australian customs.
  14. Looking good, my WO shafts come with specific new knuckles. Did you get the specific knuckle or did you try make the regular one work? I don’t remember having to do anything special with my WO joints using the knuckle it come with.
  15. I bought my first item, buyee contacted me about grease and oil, I told them to ditch the grease and oil. Send the rest. Was pretty easy. The whole process is very stream lined. I’m not sure how they go with unbuilt kits if they remove those things from them.
  16. To be honest I never think to look on this website. the few times I have, items are not what I’m looking for and often have little information and either poor pics or no pics. I tried selling items too, doesn’t seem to be very many views. personally I have 0 interest in Facebook. So it’s just eBay and buyee for me.
  17. I wouldn’t expect the 5th wheel to effect jumping a lot, but the extra weight up high on a drag link style rear suspension isn’t usually a good thing. But given the low weight probably won’t be significant unless your on very high traction. on cars like vaterra twin hammers, and a number of similar vehicles. The cars are much more stable without the extra weight hanging off the back up high. keen to see how this plays out, it’s likely one of these will land on my shelf.
  18. I’ve been trying to buy another db02 for some time now but the kits new and secondhand always go for increasingly higher prices. Add on top the buyee fees and freight the numbers are really up there. I’m hoping to make a first purchase soon. Be interested to hear how you go.
  19. Juls1

    wtcc5's TT-02BR

    The real trick here would be to buy one of those carbon chassis conversions. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/234794487968 and then 3d print the bracket to allow you to fit a xv02 slipper clutch, I note the secondary bearing holder on that chassis is separate. So should be able to make a different bracket to handle the slipper.
  20. If the intention is to run as on road rally with jumps the xv02 will still be superior to the XV01 if not for any other reason than it jumps much better and you can build in more neutral handling. It’ll trade off a bit against a TT02 still, but the extra castor/kickup/antidive and antisquat that can be built into the XV02 will probably still be an advantage when the going gets rough.
  21. This website seems to list the gpm parts. Remember you’ve gotta look for dt03 parts. Just some of those parts of course they don’t fit dt02. But the arms/suspension bits mostly fit. https://www.jteamhobbies.com/collections/dt03/green I can’t vouch for the site, I’ve never used them, suggest the usual due diligence with all the dodgy websites around these days.
  22. The website still works but the payment link to PayPal seems to fail for me.
  23. We used to sell a lot of matched packs at the store I worked, each cell was broken in and a spec sticker put on each cell then they where manually put together at the manufacturer as a group but not assembled. You always had to assemble yourself. People used to go through those packs and try pick the best ones in stock. we used to have cell equaliser dischargers as those packs where always made side by side you could discharge cells individually to make sure that when you charged they all charged evenly and one cell wasn’t messing up the charge. Typically those dischargers just had lightbulbs as the current draw, when the lights all went out you were good to go.
  24. Anyone bought from here recently? Seems to be dead?
  25. While I’m not unhappy with the release of the carbon reinforced chassis. And the road going version will make a great car park basher. I’m very disappointed that it’s not a XV02B with a longer chassis, buggy arms and towers to suit. a lot of potential for a club level 4wd racing buggy since the TD4 didn’t manage to fill those shoes. A longer chassis would mean they could bring the 53/47 weight balance back to 50/50, include the center diff as standard.
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