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Everything posted by Juls1

  1. Sometimes if the radio has EPA, the tble02S may not setup if the epa adjustment is not sufficient. (IE: it’s set on 100% or less where max might be 125%). Juls
  2. I think you should be thankful you didn't buy something from a brand owned by horizon hobby. Fact is the DB01 is 13 years old, and most parts are still somewhat available but some are getting harder to find. if you bought anything horizon hobby based in the last 4-5 years, it'd already be discontinued and parts would already be getting rare with no hope of it ever improving. I've long since swarn myself ever buying anything from any of there brands ever again. (which is about 2/3 of major manufacturers the RC World now and growing) Thus is the modern world, and why most of us still love our tamiya's. But Alas even tamiya has to draw the line at some point.
  3. Busted probably hundreds of suspension arms over my life, all of them plastic, including many rpm arms. A majority break at the hinge pivot. have never broken a alloy arm as I’ve never used one in anger. On a touring car they are probably going to be fine as there is little leverage and a lot of material. Buggy arms are another thing though with all the extra leverage. Will they break? Maybe not, bend? Most likely. Few manufacturers make aluminium chassis that don’t bend under modern bashing demands. the problem has always been its very hard to buy accurate aftermarket alloy parts. Until 3racing and yeah racing came along, accurately made aluminium parts at an affordable price didn’t really exist.
  4. Generally speaking Modern Yeah racing parts are quite good quality and are durable enough for regular running. most Tamiya parts are good too, however no part is indestructible. back in the day eagle racing and Gpm where the 2 main alloy hopup makers. GPM parts where pretty average, made from buttery alloy that bends/breaks relatively easily. Not only that but the new parts would arrive bent or manufactured so poorly they are unusable. Interestingly after 20+ years they are still going and still making soft bendy out of alignment alloy parts. having not being able to take my own advice I recently bought some gpm parts for a dt03, attached is the kind of quality Gpm seem to still be coughing up, this is a alloy front suspension arm mount to fit dt03, note both hinge pins leaning one way, they should be either straight or both leaning opposite directions. This is a brand new part, I noticed this before it even got to the car.. so never even screwed into the chassis. I thought maybe I’d done something wrong like the inserts varied or something, but no luck the part was already ruined at the factory... junk!
  5. Sounds to me like you need to get a XV01 Pro TC for your road bodies, then a XV01T for your truck body, then get another XV01 to build up with a Embie racing carbon chassis and then another .............. and then finally a 6 level 2 metre wide shelf to keep them all on....
  6. I kinda get it, I’m sitting on roughly 70 cars in total, I’ll admit I have a few duplicates. im not really sure what I would sell though. Some are hard to get, expensive, others have sentimental value. Others I’ve spent so much I’d lose more than 3/4 the money (But I guess since I spent so much to begin with money isn’t really the issue..). My initial issue really is managing the display and storage. I recently had to rearrange my rc room to try make more space. my second issue is having simply too much to do, I struggle to keep up with maintainence, let alone building new kits. My Achilles heal is really that I’m not that fond of painting bodys, I love building the kits, but doing bodys frustrates me, and I think that’s why I won’t buy anything second hand if the body isn’t box art. so letting stuff go, I‘m not at that point yet, but I can see at some point I’ll have to thin it out if I want to keep buying new stuff.
  7. If you want gold shafts you need to get the shafts out of the buggy aeration dampers, either type will work. They mostly went out if stock long before the tc01 came out, people where obviously stocking up pre release. im surprised Tamiya has not yet released a big bore damper set with the long gold shafts for tc01. Although they released the alloy adapters separately already.
  8. I would certainly go with the gt power system if you want to use a digital type pistol radio. The Tamiya system is horribly outdated really. I think they should just rebadge the gt power system as a mfc04
  9. So I’m using a spectrum dx5r. I have it setup on the 3rd channel with a click button under my thumb, one click forward goes up 1 gear, one click back goes down 1 gear. So yes it works as 3 position. first thing you must understand about the truck light/esc controller is that “it will NOT, work on a 3ch radio” it won’t flash up, won’t calibrate, won’t do absoluently anything unless there is a 4ch+ receiver/radio connected. if you don’t hook up a proper 4ch receiver/transmitter then it’s just a brick. The 4th channel can be used for the horn and automatic trailer hitch. Trust me I spent hours stuffing about with a 3ch receiver then I hooked up a 5ch and it instantly worked. secondly if you have adjustable electronic epa’s there is a possibility it won’t calibrate the throttle with the epa at only 100%, if there is a higher option. Generally the radio must be set max epa for it to understand, in my case that was 150%. Now you might be thinking gee that all sounds a bit crazy, well the Tamiya unit on the same type of radio has all of those requirements too, but the Tamiya unit doesn’t play fair on electronic trims and epa very well. as for the nimh/lipo query I cannot see a issue, from memory you can set that up in the phone app.. yes everything, I mean everything is programmable in the Bluetooth phone app. Which lights do what, what channels do what, and loads of other options. after having used this system there is no way I’d even consider the Tamiya unit, if you want to use a digital pistol radio it’s really the only option, BUT, you must have a minimum of 4channel radio/rx. Juls.
  10. Sorry but late replying. The HiCap mini your stuck, at least for genuine Tamiya pistons. The shorts you “might” be able to squeeze the big bore aeration damper pistons in, I have a feeling you can buy those Blank and put your own holes in. check my buggy damper thread for more info.
  11. Madcap would be nice. But updated chassis for square packs. Since they gotta make a new chassis anyway.
  12. I just used the stock screw, put a washer in there, and a nylock nut, stuck a screwdriver down the side to stop it turning while i tightend it. been working perfectly for a few years now. Agreed, the stock plastic bit is a bit pointless. A proper alloy one would be Ideal though.
  13. It’s intended for high traction situations, where you want a stiffer chassis for less sluggish feeling handling. Putting these stiffer parts on will reduce traction in low/medium traction situations. I can see it’s a bit hard to understand how they describe it.
  14. I’m guilty of owning 5 Traxxas models.. and one of them is my second favorite car... but I offset that by owning more than 50 Tamiya kits.... what is the allowable brand ratio on this forum?
  15. I’ve observed the same. Can’t say for sure, but makes me wonder with speed passion gone several years ago who is making the motors now?
  16. In the case of the Tamiya motor, the motor has its own removable tabs at the motor itself. in terms of all others, it’s really only the high point setting you should ideally have the motor unplugged. The rest should be ok. If you do the setup on the bench won’t really matter too much if the motor thrashes about a bit. Same can be said if you just take the wheels off the car. Juls
  17. desolder the wires off the motor, then just directly solder the esc wires in the prefered length to the motor plug tabs. Distance not really that important. The ESC wire thickness is fine, especially if they are very short. Don't know why tamiya put that huge 12AWG Wire on there motors. They all come with it, even the 21.5T. Whats stupid is they put those bullet plugs on fancy wire.. the plug is the weak link. Juls
  18. If you love the WR02 have you considered a WT01??? https://tamiyabase.com/chassis/135-wt-01#models-with-wt-01-chassis I know it won't take the really thick square packs, but soft ones, and the thinner 4000mah hard case often still squeeze through.
  19. I use alloy screws exclusively for shelfers. When I do use them I use Tamiyas thread “forming” tool (54232 about $10) Which is basically a steel threading tool to pre create the thread in the hole. But it isn’t a tap, a tap removes material from the hole where the forming tool makes a thread similar to a machine screw being forced in the hole, but the forming tool has a sharper finer cut so your following screw will still grab. But really for a shelfer I could get away with a regular 3mm tap, except I’d know the plastic part may forever be compromised. for everything else I use stock Tamiya screws or stainless machine screws. I’ve always had good luck with polished stainless screws. Black stainless screws I’ve had less luck, I’m somewhat skeptical of them being stainless to be honest.
  20. I suggest you checkout my buggy damper thread, virtually all the options listed will fit. My vote is df03 dampers not cheap but worth every cent.
  21. With the xv01 it’s the unique handling that makes it separate from any touring car based rally car. The forward weight distribution leads the car to be more effective at pivoting on its front wheels, leading to more satisfyingly realistic drift characteristics as well as a ease of placing the sliding chassis where you want it. the only thing the the TT02 can do better than the xv01 is very large, unrealistic jumps. That’s not to say you can’t jump the xv01, just the buggy like rear weight bias of the TT02 is easier to keep the nose up when your being super silly. The xv01 jumps very realistically. it’s worth considering that the xv01 layout is intended for scale realism, if one wants an “easy” car to race, well any rearward motor Touring car is going to be easier to push its front tyres around the corner while preventing the tail end from stepping out. That’s not the idea of the XV01, it’s handling is ment to excite and reward the driver by making it easy to be sideways but also be completely in control, that isn’t the fastest way around the track but it sure is the most fun!! There’s no question that the XV01 is one of the easiest cars to manage during a slide because all the weight up front translates to immense grip from the front tyres so it ultimately just goes where you point it. I guess this comes back to the point that if you wanted to “race rally” or racing as a touring car for that matter. Any touring based chassis is still likely to be faster because it’s easier not to break the rear wheels free, but the touring chassis is likely harder to control once the back wheels do break free because of the tendency of the whole car to slide rather than mostly just the back tires on the xv01. While Tamiya could make another XV chassis, many would argue it’s necessary to fix issues that some don’t like, such as the tool required battery door, and possibly (this goes for all rc touring cars) more steering angle. But in reality there isn’t much improvement to be had handing wise, it’d just be for the sake of change. I feel the xv01 is pretty much spot on for its intended application. As a realistic (not necessarily better) handling scale rally chassis , it has all the modern touches to the suspension and drivetrain, I think there is little else out there today or in the future that compares with the XV’s single purpose of touching that apex with the front tires while the tail end drifts it’s way along behind spraying gravel as it goes, creating a darn big grin! just get one!
  22. I've had the cheap bearings, tend to end up replacing them after a few grubby runs.They are OK inside gearboxes, but don't seem to do well in wheel hubs, IE: outside. These days I run Yeah racing bearings, they have done me well so far, so every time I do a rcmart order, I just get another 10 or 20 to top up, try and keep a good 50 or so 11/5 in stock and 15-20 of the other common sizes. They slide in price wise in between the cheaper bearings and the fast eddy's, I think they make a good compromise, although I've never tried fast eddy bearings. Juls
  23. the CC02 is probably the most complex/modern in that lot, The MF01X is not particularly great off road, it's certainly not a crawler. it's alright on super firm smooth dirt surfaces. The CC01 can be built up to be pretty capable, but takes quite a bit of work, the terra scorcher is likely to be the best off road handling at speed. Here is a pic of my stock CC02 Chasssis. (aftermarket wheels/tires) Juls
  24. To look at, super hotshot to drive, hands down, Top Force.
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