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Juls1

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Everything posted by Juls1

  1. These appear to be similar to the Leopard units which are similar money. Performance wise I found these setups was about "half" the performance of a hobbywing sensorless setup of the same KV and A Rating. They are great on M Chassis, ok ish on a DT02/03.. Terribly slow on anything big and heavy or 4wd. Even still, represent decent value for money.
  2. So the servo fitted up nice, pretty happy with how it turned out. Moving onto shocks I had a set of trf short dampers in my parts box so they are going on. to help finish off the shock towers since sadly I wasn’t able to located the yeah racing carbon towers. These 3racing carbon tower stiffeners will have to do, Rear shocks on. Front shocks on. Final chassis pics soon!
  3. Moving on, for the rear of the car I found this little stiffener brace from square. The rear body mount is raised, and the manual calls for a threaded rod, so I optioned for a alloy turnbuckle instead. So the stiffener and turnbuckle work together. and installed, any chance to add bling lol. Now we need a motor to hang onto the factory Tamiya m03 heatsink. Something else that came with the m03R. not sure how much heat that thing takes being a good inch from the motor but this is about looking good and that it seems to achieve. Moving onto the the steering servo and it’s associated parts. Blue servo mounts from the M03R kit. A carbon servo brace from square makes a nice addition. Servo assembled, to use the blue alloy servo horn I had to burn a high torque servo saver, bit annoying in a car I’m not gonna drive but so be it. More Soon...
  4. So after that hiccup fixed, I can keep going. So swaybars actually fit up now. Now what I really wanted was the yeah racing shock towers/chassis braces. Since I couldn’t get them I’ll settle for square chassis braces. And later on some tower braces. When you don’t use the stock bumpers the chassis brace is a must. And maybe even when you do have it. Rear brace and swaybar all installed. Yes I had to buy the blue swaybar ends, also by square. Gpm foam bumper for TL01. Bumper mounts and chassis brace/swaybar finally all installed! Annoyingly I damaged a alloy screw, a reminder why this will be a shelf queen as some of those alloy screws may not want to come out ever again so maintainence would be problematic.
  5. So as the Yeah racing kit didn’t include sway bars I’ll be adding the TL01LA sway bars (which are a lot different than TL01 sway bars.) As it turns out there is a reason the yeah racing kit doesn’t have sway bars... grumble grumble... 3mm metal tap.... Well somehow I managed to make 4 of these freehand without stuffing it up.. would have been better if it had been factory though. That was more effort than I was planning! More soon!
  6. If I’m going to drive my bling builds generally I’ll stick to Tamiya only hopups, I know there is something about sticking to purely Tamiya parts. I’m totally with you on that!
  7. 12 months from now you’ll probably have between 12 and 25 kits.. welcome back!
  8. Suspension Suspension Suspension.... Now there is no limit of Alloy bits for TL01 suspension arms... BUT I don't want to use TL01 Suspension... I want to use TL01LA suspension.. but its black and boring. Come 2018 and the Folks at Yeah Racing have coughed up a wide arm kit.. but not for the TL01.. certainly not for FF02.. However it is for WR02 and GF01/G601.. as it turns out the WR02/GF01 still use TL01 Suspension! So looks like we get to stay with a decent wide arm setup but gain the required bling levels. You'll notice I have both the real TL01LA Set and the Yeah set, just in case the Yeah set doesn't work. The yeah kit spread out, it came with Shock Towers the the WR02.. I gave them to a friend. Kept just what i need for this build, it works out pretty cost effective because you get hinge pins and turnbuckles.. the whole lot. It also owes me quite a bit less than the Tamiya long arm kit does. Basically assembled, it's a really really nice kit, fit and finish is great, the captured hing pins are the best bit. Seems like it's going to work! Everything slotted up perfectly as hoped. More Soon...
  9. First steps are the gearbox and battery holder. I wouldn't typically install a 3Racing ball diff, however this is a bling build and it fitted the theme, plus it'll never be driven so i don't have to maintain the flipping thing! Lightweight gearbox shafts.. haha whats the point.. but anyway.. 3Racing kindly coughed up a alternate bling option for the Battery Holder. Seems like this plated chassis is made of something stiffer, since i'm using Aluminium screws I didn't want to bust any trying to make threads with them, Tamiyas 3mm Thread forming tap was used to premake the threads, One thing about this Tap is it has no reliefs, meaning it doesn't remove any material, I've tried a cheaper tap with Relief in plastic, it just stuffs the hole altogether and ruins the part, Tamiyas proper 3mm thread forming tap leaves a nice tight usable thread in most of the firmer plastics, forget it on some of the softer tamiya plastics though. Gearbox together.. That 3racing diff was a pain, you can't disassemble it, like the bearings are permanently assembled in the diff.. now if you look at the diff, you'll realise it doesn't fit through the normal hole.. well the instructions show boring out the hole and leaving just 1mm lip for the bearing to seat against.. well that wasn't fun, but it's together. Now I could have used Tamiyas black plastic hopup Hardend gears here but I thought, i'm being rediculous enough already. Front gearbox together. it's a shame the 3 racing parts are a dull blue, I don't know if thats because they just where like that, or it's because they are old. Dunno but it is what it is. Tail end on. More soon..
  10. I figured one motor needed to go backwards has always put me off this design because you either need motors which 0 timing advance or you need motors with positive and negatively adjustable timing. Otherwise one end try’s to go faster than the other.
  11. So you might be thinking at this point “why a FF02?” well nearly 2 years ago now I got the itch again and decided to “sympathetically” restore my old FF01 chassis, so that started out with good intentions but ultimately turned into a whole new car lathered in blue alloy bits and carbon fiber. By the time I finished that I’d checked out the modern equivalent the FF03 and decided I needed to get one. Again the intention was a basic build but Again, it ended up a pile of blue aluminum and carbon fiber bits. Then when the FF03 was pretty much done I decided, hmmm.. I’m missing the ugly duckling here. So over the last 10 months or so I’ve been gathering bits to finish the trio, of which none of the three are likely to ever be driven. For those that don’t know the FF02 was the front drive chassis that no one wanted. Ultimately it was just a M03 chassis with a longer middle spacer and TL01 suspension. The FF02 didn’t really cut the mustard and was retired with just 3 body’s released on its chassis (albeit none of those bodys have ever been re released.) To start with I’ve selected a NIB Peugeot 306 as a base plate, it’s the nicest of the 3 and unsurprisingly the most sought after. Really though short of the body it was a pointless purchase because to start a bling build of a FF02 one actually needs the blingy M03R chassis, of which I managed to find a NIB one of those. After that one needs a pile of other bits... The one thing I needed above all else from the M03R chassis was the plated chassis parts. There is no carbon chassis so this seemed to be the best option. Now the M03R comes with plated spacers for 210, 225 and 239mm but not a 258mm for the FF02, not wanting to use the plain grey spacer from the FF02 I was lucky enough to find a 3racing part specifically for the job. More updates soon.
  12. If you want stupid power you can go 10bl120 and a 3660 motor but I think you’ll just smash the drivetrain of a manta ray lol. I’m running previous version 10bl50 sensorless and 3400kv of the previous gen motor. Pulls wheelies from stand still if it gets traction. I dialed the punch back to the lowest setting, now you get about 1-2ft before all the power comes on then it pulls wheelies from a rolling start. Not wanting to destroy the car it’s plenty for what I want from my manta ray.
  13. pickup a Hobbywing sensorless 10BL60 and a matching 3656 3300-4000kv. (3300-3500 is probably plenty, if you like busting stuff by all means go higher). Very cheap for the amount of raw power you get. Nothing you can buy sensored will have the same amount of sheer brute power without spending 2-3 times as much. Juls
  14. Loving it so far.. I'm not too far behind you doing a WT01 Dual box build myself. Do both motors run forwards in that setup or does one have to go backwards? seems in my mind that one would need to go backwards but i could be wrong.
  15. Yeah ok, that’s probably not a hobbywing unit then, the manual certainly leaves a lot to be desired. Hobbywing esc’s sometimes program from the fan plug, if there is 3 pins under the fan plug them that’s the program port. Juls
  16. I’m using a similar abisma unit that is just a hobbywing 10bl50. I had trouble with it until I plugged in one of my hobbywing programmers and set it up, also I had to run through the throttle setup profile before the forward/brake/reverse worked proper. the hobbywing programmers appear to work across most hobbywing units but you have to look at your supplied manual for what each number means. I plugged a 12 function unit into a cheaper esc and it just gave 5 options. So the programmer adapts depending which esc is connected. the hobbywing 10bl60 will handle that motor easily. Juls
  17. Yes I was going to say, 3s would likely be a bit silly. That’s not even a really ballsy motor either. If you went with a proper sensorless 3660 SCT motor you’d probably more than happy if your not already happy. Anymore more than about 3500kv is probably overkill. As for 3s, even all these traxxas/vaterra/hpi/arrma/axial’s etc etc that claim you can use 3s and do some stupid speed, well they all pack it in and die within a pack or two on 3s, and they are ment to be able to handle it. On 2s all these cars can go back to back pack after pack, on 3s you struggle to keep the cars together for one pack. I really think the txt2 might be stretched passed its limit on a high power brushless on 3s or more.
  18. Glad it’s working out, RC rally is a lot of fun. Start saving your penny’s for a xv-01 now so you can pull off spectacular opposite lock gravel drifts, it’s the only chassis that really handles just like you’d expect/want it to in that application. All the other 4wd layouts are boring by comparison.
  19. Its the top out of a TL01 Friction shock, I imagine most friction shock tops would be similar, needed a bit of modification. To be honest it's not great, I'd like to fab up something stronger/less flexible, but its better than nothing made this way. I'm still figuring a better option, it might be better if the Friction shock top where glued in place. Someone with 3d printing skills could print up something more solid I think.
  20. The slicks almost always last longer than the treaded tires of equivalent compound. More rubber there for a start.
  21. The Stock C Hub is fine, Most people change that because it just looks better as alloy, the alloy part is probably a little stiffer maybe. The GPM Knuckle probably fits a little nicer against it's own brand of alloy knuckle compared to the plastic part. I've had alot of parts from GPM that don't fit as nicely as i'd like, but usually knuckles are not a problem. You can in fact buy the stock knuckles in black plastic Tamiya 10445572 which is probably a better option than the alloy knuckle. These are the same dual 5x11 bearing. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Tamiya-Upright-For-M1025-Hummer-TA01-TA02-EP-4WD-1-10-RC-Cars-Touring-10445572/132157795739?epid=1363410873&hash=item1ec537ed9b:g:24QAAOSwAANY7x~J Be careful with other black plastic tamiya knuckles that look right as they are the 10x15/12x6 type from some TA02/TA03/CC01 cars. The above is the right one for the top force.
  22. You can use some ride diff putty in the diff to get a fairly good LSD type action, once broken in with this putty it tends to let the diff rotate about once then starts to lock up in an almost elastic kind of fashion which means you still get initial turn in. Assuming you don't overdo it with the putty, downside is you must remove the grease in there first or the putty just slips off the gears. The putty was designed with FWD M Chassis in mind. just be careful with it you don't need much, the 45 weight is heavy enough for 99% of applications. in this picture there probably is a bit much for a M diff, about half that would suffice, takes a pack or 2 for it to bed in properly so you know how stiff it is. It'll seem nearly locked initially. Juls
  23. Place I bought the prepainted SMR shell from had a big pile, maybe 30 or so. No wings though. Juls
  24. Looks great, I gotta get off my butt and paint my factory body now. Kinda cheated buying a pre painted super manta ray shell!
  25. The “original” top force and manta ray had decent shocks with proper plastic pistons, the re re does not, it has one piece metal shaft/pistons that grind there way up and down the sides of the shock body. Regardless of good or not, they’re yellow and didn’t suit where I was going with the build. I’m happy to donate the yellow stock shocks to whomever would want them as I certainly don’t need them.
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