Juls1

Fitted up a TA02 touring car gearset, stock alloy parts are rubbish. Yeah Racing bearings throughout. Also fitting the optional main drive shaft from the top force kit.

Yeah racing one piece motor mount and MST 0.6 module machines steel pinion gear. Both pretty much must have. Also rather bling.

Gear diffs front and rear for this build. Since it’ll be a beach rig I want the diffs pretty tight so the cars not getting bogged through 1:1 scale 4wd wheel tracks and the like. I’m using “Ride 45 hardness” diff putty. It’s important not to put any other grease in with the putty or it can cause the putty to just slip off the gears. Generally takes a good half a battery pack or more to settle the diffs right in with this stuff before you really know how firm. You don’t need a lot, it’s easy to overdo it.

Where possible I’ll be using stainless screws from one of my parts trays.

So when I was a kid I always wanted a manta ray, but it never happend, 25 years on here we are. The intention for this build is for the car to be used mainly at the beach. So here we go! 26/08/2018 FINISHED PRODUCT, See bottom of thread for more.

Does Tamiya even do non English instructions? Ie: not include English in the box? I’ve been buying from Japan, HK, Germany, Holland, UK etc for years and have always had English instructions. Just a thought.

Lighter oil will have a minor difference, but it could make it worse as well as you’ll reduce stability which in turn will reduce traction, particularly under power. Far better off to eliminate the internal pressure of the damper.

I don’t miss the nitro in my eyes.... and clutches. Don’t miss those either!

The springs on the long damper spec are front buggy springs. The springs on the normal xv01 I don’t know. The long damper spec uses cva mini damper body’s where the normal xv01 uses cva super mini damper body’s. Ie: the normal xv01 uses m chassis dampers. The LDS XV01 uses the normal size dampers that where included for TA01/2/3/4 TL01 etc. Juls

Can you use the longer xv01 springs from the long damper spec? (Ie: front buggy springs) If you want the shock to be a little softer initially you can build the shock with a vaccum inside. This will make the shock slightly softer initially with less mid/end stroke resistance. fill the damper with oil, cycle the shock and remove any air in the oil, push damper rod into body till the piston nearly gets out of the oil at the top, for a bladder shock put bladder on to top of the shock and pull the damper shaft down to the bottom, this should suck the bladder down hard and the piston rod will try to retract, keep holding the piston rod out all the way and screw cap on. When you let go of the piston rod it should suck nearly all the way back in. If it doesn’t repeat the process till you get it right. If it’s a non bladder top you can simply screw the top on. Juls

Go with hobbywing gear, all the goolrc and skyrc stuff I’ve had was either slow or crap. Everything I’ve had in the last 3 years of hobbywing has always met my expectations. Juls

They should still work just the same. Remember these particular shocks don’t have bladders to separate the air from the oil, they are intended to have air mixed with the oil.

Yes they will work, you'll have to use the long rod ends. Any of the tamiya touring car shocks should work no problem at all. Juls

Tble02s with 13.5t brushless is what I run in my xv01 and it’s great. You can use lipos you just need to remember to stop playing when the power drops off significantly or if you don’t trust yourself get an alarm for it. Juls

Generally speaking storage of NiMH is similar to lipo, anything around 25-50% charge is ok. For charging NIMH is more sensitive to overcharging than Nicad. But not as sensitive as Lipo. A peak charger basically detects when the voltage of the battery begins to fall, the reason the battery voltage falls when the battery is charged is because at full capacity the battery starts to inverse it’s polarity and resistance in the pack starts to climb as it resists this process lowering the voltage vs the input current. Nimh was less capable of handling being overcharged but also reached charge sooner and more predictably. The biggest difference between a NiMH peak charge setting and a Nicad peak setting was how long the charge would put up with the voltage fall before stopping the charge. Ultimately the physical numerical figure of allowable voltage drop is less on a NiMH. Back in the day we never really charged our batterys slow, generally 1x capacity was very safe, but racers wanting a bit more punch might charge at 2x capacity. I see minimal advantage in charging very slow, apart from its much harder to over charge it. Cycling a battery can sometimes recover lost capacity, for racing we used to discharge completely before recharging, if you don’t then the recent charge is punchy but the residual charge capacity felt flat. Cycling the pack helped keep the power delivery more uniform across the entire capacity of the battery. Cheers Juls

Typically speaking RC racers will run there dampers quite slow purely for stability, the thing to remember compared to a full size car you don’t have to sit in your RC car, so tuning for comfort is irrelevant. Most of tamiyas bashers are setup far too fast from factory and as a result are quite unstable. You have bought a race vehicle and discovered that the race setting if far from what than your run of the mill vehicles. This is normal and personally I setup most of my chassis this way to improve overall handling. The number of holes in the piston isn’t really relevant, it’s the size of the hole. For CVA I almost always run single hole piston, sometimes with heavier oil than stock too depending on situation. The damper should show obvious compression damping to handle jump landings and slow enough rebound to stop the springs from unsettling the car after large impacts. i generally run soft enough springs to have 25-40% sag on my off road vehicles, the damper needs to be able to control the motion and absorb the impact. The spring is not there to absorb the impact as it just stores the impact then releases it. It’s the dampers job to deal with the initial impact and the stored energy of the spring. the downside of cva damper is the body can swell under high pressure situations leading to bypass. But for most applications can still be setup just fine. Drop into a RC racetrack where they run 1/10 ep buggy’s on clay and go around the track and bounce all the cars suspension you’ll probably find they are even slower than your factory Db01r setting. cheers Juls

My understanding of ball diffs is that the main ball bearings use silicon grease as it’s friction coefficient is very poor, what this means is that it will lubricate the ball in the plastic race of the diff gear, but due to the pressure against the ball by the steel diff plates the silicon grease offers very little or no reduction in friction allowing the balls to properly grip and as such give both forward drive and diff function. The thrust bearing however does need to slip so we use moly grease which has a high friction coefficient. The idea of putting a more slippery grease on the primary diff balls and plates kind of goes backwards on how it’s ment to work, if the balls cannot properly grip the diff plates then you don’t have a diff anymore. Whatever grease you use, it needs to lubricate the balls against the plastic, but provide nearly no lubrication under high pressure metal to metal situations.

Cheapest option - Plastic - 50519 CVA Mini Damper (only 2 shocks per pack, includes 98055484 springs in packet, Reccomend spend the extra on alloy sets instead though) OR 54541 CC01 Aluminium Damper (Brown color) (includes 4 shocks) OR 54670 GF01 Aluminium Damper (identical to 54541 but in Blue) (includes 4 Shocks) Springs 54221 TRF201 Front Spring set (includes 6 white springs, 3 different weights) OR 19805484 - 9805484 CC01 Rear Spring/DT02/03 Front Spring (only 2 springs per pack in chrome) The above will work pretty much same deal for almost any Tamiya Touring/Rally conversion. The right spring is critical for rally where you need quite soft springs to maintain grip on gravel/dirt.

I’ve been using these feetech 5679 servos for the past 5 years, never failed me yet, futaba spline so standard Tamiya fitting. Low profile gives a bit more space. Torque and speed wise more than twice as good as a futaba s3003 and it’s digital and metal geared to boot. Not much more money. Worth every penny. Its what I run in my xv01, dn01, db01, db02, ff03 and df03. Is it as good as savox? Well an equivalent savox or futaba is nearly 3x the price... http://www.rcmart.com/feetech-profile-007sec60degree-digtal-servo-ft5679m-p-36284.html?cPath=1099_1025

Don’t rule out the diff just because you tightend it, my diff was slipping even with the spring completely crushed inside. The sound and driving feel is very similar to a slipping slipper clutch. It is the most common issue with dn01. The easy way to see is pull the gear cover off, put your thumb on the spur gear, roll the car with the spur gear locked by your thumb, watch to see if the the drive shaft on the slipper is turning smoothly when you roll the car forwards. If the shaft doesn’t turn smoothly then slipper is not the problem. Juls

The front one way basically disconnects the front wheels under brakes or off throttle allowing you to rotate the car quickly, worth remembering however that if it’s loose and your turning and you just back off throttle it can cause the car to spin out instantly. the direct coupling is basically a diff delete or locked diff, will give greater on power steering but reduced off power steering. I have a few TA05 parts NIP that came in a bulk lot, since I don’t have a TA05 I’d be willing to let them go cheap if they are of use. Mainly front/rear damper stays, transponder mount few other bits. Keep in mind you don’t need front damper stay if your sticking with the ifs. The alloy trf dampers are a nice upgrade. I used adjustable balls on the end shock mount of my FF03 to remove a huge amount of slop. Can be used on arms to further remove the linkage slop in the ifs. Juls

You would only use a one way if you want increased off power steering, the one way disengages the front diff when coasting or under brakes. Meaning only the rear wheels can slow the car down. Given 4wd cars have more front weight bias applying the brakes often leads to the rear tyres skidding and allowing the car to rotate instantly. It’s useful on very tight tracks with a lot of switchbacks. Some people prefer it, especially bashers, I’ve not found any racing situation myself where I thought the lack of front wheel braking was helping me.

If everything is assembled correctly it’s probably the diff slipping. Diff on dn01 is pretty bad for it. Properly built trf201 diff normally not much of an issue unless you put too powerful brushless in it.

Ahh, my bad not sure why I thought one was a Chevy? Lol

I have to say I wasn’t 100% convinced, glad someone come up with the right name. If you’d given me a pic of the whole motor and specs I would have had a lot more to go on. Either way we got a result.