Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Juls1

  1. I have a wide range of cars with different battery compartments, and I know there is no 1 easy solution. many of the rounded shaped lipos designed to be like a tamiya pack are slightly larger and don’t fit anyway. Ive ended up with a large number of soft case lipos as they are a touch smaller and can be shoehorned into most kits. When buying lipos don’t be tempted to buy cheap packs, they won’t last very well unless you use them continuously. Lipo battery’s are a really tricky purchase because price doesn’t always mean a better pack, and neither does brand. I’ve had phenomenal success with nvision 3700mah 7.4v 30c soft packs, power, longevity, run time have been amazing. Where as the nvision 4500mah 45c stick style packs have been junk from day one. There is 3 things that dictate how long your pack lasts before it puffs up. 1. Don’t over discharge, no further than 3v per cell 3.4, if you want to be careful. 2. Charge using balance mode at least every second charge. 3. Never store battery’s either fully charged or discharged. Both will lead to premature failure of the pack. (Severe swelling) generally a charge between 40-80% is ideal, some saying 50%. I like to store Myn with a float voltage around 3.8-3.9v per cell. Deciding what will fit in your car is always the hardest bit, and as mentioned above many cars are designed for 350g nimh packs. Where most lipos sit at 200-250g. That 100g less weight can really mess with suspension settings, especially on road cars or off road where a weight balance is required. As for connectors, since I have a wide range of cars, I like to use xt-90. It’s a bit overkill on some of our tamiyas, but it’s a easy connector to solder and usually easy to get in and out.
  2. There is quite a few NIB kits still on eBay. It’s a pity you bought the shell already as they are not terrible value for money all things considered. I know I wish I’d just bought a new kit, but I started out going to use some second hand parts some new. Of course as the process went on I ended up going deeper down the rabbit hole till I had everything new. And yes I ended up spending more than a new kit, albeit however many of the parts have been replaced with hopups. Juls
  3. Certainly very nice. Looking forward to seeing it done. I assume your going to put slicks on it right? Not taking a white chassis mud bogging straight away? I guess some nice white dry beach sand could be ok.
  4. There is quite a few ff-01 parts around, between TA-01/2, CC-01, M01/m03 and top force parts there is still plenty of option parts to be had. The only thing that’s harder to get is the A-parts, it’s generally not something that breaks easily though. B and E parts can be a little difficult as well, but generally not crazy prices of A parts. With the re release of TA02 yagermeister porsche there is cheap frp chassis parts about now as well. im in the process of restoring my old FF01 now. Just waiting on a couple more parts and I’ll start putting up build pics hopefully by the weekend or early next week. If the intention is to burn around on the street I see few negatives. As for a racing chassis? Err no. It lacks adjustability, it’s quite a high chassis as well but this makes it great for general street work and also more realistic on those old school body’s. Finally you’ll want some super sticky front tyres if you want to be able to steer!! Juls
  5. The black wheels go quite well with it actually. Im curious where you got your stickers? Did you make them?
  6. Oh heck if it’s for a non RC enthusiast a bog stock DT-0 whatever will do the job. That being said a DT-01 fighter buggy RX was my first real RC when I was 12, it did a huge amount of work but ultimately that chassis was never a great car but it’s impossible handling certainly helped me learn to drive the hard way.
  7. The DN-01 I think gets overlooked, it comes with white wheels and you don't gotta paint the wing pink. the thing is it comes with oil shocks, adjustable turnbuckles and full bearings, a ball diff and steel drive dogbones, stainless steel hinge pins. By the time you add up the cost of those things added to a dt-02 or DT-03 the DN-01 is in fact very very price competitive now that the average price of the 58477 is now around $190USD. Consider your paying around or more than $100 usd for a DT-03 or DT-02 kit. Not to mention a tenfold superior overall chassis no matter how you look at it. On top of that a TRF201 slipper clutch bolts straight on, not to mention most of the TRF201 parts fit, like the heatsink motor mount, alloy rear knuckles and various other parts. It's actually fairly cheap to make it a TRF201.
  8. Yeah racing bits TA-01/2 rear hub TA-01/2 Front C Hub CC-01 Front knuckle arms Servo mount lock on drive hexes. also got yeah alloy kingpins but wrong size, my bad. Have to go with tamiya ones.
  9. Fwd touring gear set 50493 Manga ray diff ball and plates 53072 hardened drive cups 53217 cc01 universals 54608
  10. 5mm Fluorine coated ball connectors 53598 Tamiya Anodized blue turnbuckles and ball connectors.
  11. Some more bits arrived. TRF shock set 42102 Top force SS hinge pin kit yeah racing bearing kit.
  12. Some fresh plastics from 3 different sellers, my freight bill is mounting, and the parts where hardly good value, especially the fresh gearbox. Price I pay for waiting 18 years to do this, oh well, I've actually got the funds to do this now though.
  13. So a new frp chassis kit from Tony's, I assume broken out of a Porsche yagermeister kit. I have the other spare parts I need from a second hand chassis I bought. But saw the fresh plates and plastics fairly cheap and went for it.
  14. Oh don't worry there is some bling on the way 😊
  15. Back when I was 17 I bought a new in box FF01 chassis Opel vectra from a guy at work. I built it up, did a dodgy red paint job and ditched 99% of the stickers. Dropped a 12x2 brushed motor in it (actually there was no brushless or Lipo in those days!) and basically burned rubber in straight lines everywhere and drove into curbs and walls while having nearly no control of the car in a continuous fashion. I never really got the car, it didn't turn, it didn't slow down, it didn't grip.. it just didn't. So by the time I was 18 the car was dumped in its box never to be looked at again. Fast forward 18 years and I don't know where the rest of the car went, but I think it deserves to be made into the car it should have been. With the release of the ff03 has ment I can buy the Opel vectra shell again and start this process from scratch, of course ff01 parts are a bit thin these days. Pictures below show what I'm starting with. I've got about 10 orders coming from all corners of the earth to get this thing back up and running in the coming week.
  16. The kits are certainly thinning out, there is still a few on eBay shipping to Australia I assume they would also be shipping to NZ?
  17. Which is why I figured the TB might be more suited to straight line stuff.
  18. The topic question is a bit personal isn't it? Sorry just had to say that 😆 as for wild Willy driver figurine size, I havnt got one to check so sorry my post is a bit useless. Juls
  19. I would probably lean towards a tb03/04 myself. Maybe ta07 a TT02 is a great car but the money you'll spend making it run well far exceeds the extra you will spend to get a better chassis to begin with. apart from crazy straight line speed what else do you plan to do with the car?
  20. Took her out for a decent run, amazed actually how well it handles considering it's a 26 year old chassis. I did run it over an alignment jig and set the suspension up for level arms and handling outright of course but I'm still very impressed none the less. I'd be quite happy to run it at the race track in sport class.
  21. The f103gt is certainly the better option if you just wanna mess about. It's worth keeping in mind these chassis where never intended to have super low turn motors and as such don't have high ratio gearing needed for very low turn motors. Its not to say it won't work, just the motor may run very hot if you choose too lower turn. They are crazily quick cars though, they weigh nothing and waste very little energy.
  22. Have you disassembled the slipper and checked all parts are assembled in the correct order and also that nothing is riding up onto something that might stop you tightening it. in the past when I've had issues like that with slipper clutches it's been a washer in the wrong spot or a bushing or spacer upside down. Just something really minor that makes 0.5mm difference enough to make the slipper slip more than expected even when the tension nut is bottomed out. Juls
  23. With regards to the steering kit, yes gpm can be a pita, I've had 4 and they all didn't work properly, needed fixing and or where bin jobs. yeah racing have just released a new complete steering setup (not the old carbon thing that only does half the job, this is a new design) and I think it might just be the best on the market right now. With the main shafts square drives and flanged bearings that fit directly in the chassis that fixes the shortcomings of the gpm kit along with bearing supported arms and adjustable turnbuckles the kit is pretty much very well sorted. It can be bought separate for about $20usd or can be had in yeah racings new complete conversion which is around $90usd, both represent good value for money and being yeah racing it'll probably work well too. as others have said bearings is no 1. motor wise, I do long trail drives, generally following mtb tracks, often many many miles, and I prefer a 45T motor. If you want to crawl up things crazy slowly you'll need an 80T but I think this misses the point of the chassis. The cc01 is tenfold more stable on rough tracks at a faster than walking pace speed than any dual solid axle setup, yet modded right is just as capable as anything using the same size tyres that's still a scaled down version of a real road going vehicle. Juls
  24. The current stock shocks pretty much suck because they don't have proper pistons like the original shocks had. Most the new cva shocks have a steel disc permanently attached to the end of the damper shaft with a slot cut off the side of disc instead of c clipped plastic pistons with holes. While they achieve a similar goal, they don't work as well, not as smooth or consistent. A frustrating alteration to cva's that once where pretty decent. In my experience the shocks supplied with the current release top force are by a large margin the worst oil damped tamiya shocks I have ever owned. On the upside, the hi caps are only about $50usd from the HK stores (although all stock may be gone already) Most of the tamiya alloy shocks are very affordable and offer equal or superior performance and reliability to almost any other brand of rc shock at any price. If you have older cva dampers with proper pistons, hang onto them!
  25. Taking Myn out for her first run tomorrow. Looking forward to seeing what she runs like. Will be taking it gently, only fitted a 17x2 since she is a limited run. I fitted top force evo repro shock towers, and tamiyas build for the hicaps doesn't work at all I tossed the springs and changed out the oil to my preference. i also noticed the new hicaps I bought for my top force are completely different to the hicaps I bought 20 years ago (which are well worn, and in my parts trays) the material of the body is different, bottom seal mechanism totally different. They are actually completely dis similar to the original, not saying it's a bad thing, just they are not the same, just like the cva's in the kit are not like the original. Juls
  • Create New...