Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Juls1

  1. Annoyingly they will come loaded with Avante springs which will be too heavy for most 2wd buggys, particularly up front, and they won't re release the original spring kits. Lucky Gmade XD 19mm springs fit. The only springs tamiya make that might fit are the Big Bore Aeration damper sets. 54506/7/8 but I think the fronts might be too long. Either way I'm happy to see these on the horizon with them re releasing the avante again. I'll certainly be picking up some sets, whats the bet they don't make enough!
  2. There is a number of alternate diff options yeah racing and 3 racing make sealed diffs you can fill with thick oil. https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-38t-gear-differential-set-for-tamiya-m05-m06-tamc-023-00071722 https://www.rcmart.com/3racing-gear-differential-39t-for-m05-m06-m06-06-00033335 There is also aftermarket outdrive cups to fit the stock diff. https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-steel-front-rear-gear-joint-for-tamiya-tt02-tt02-017-00036592 https://www.rcmart.com/3racing-diff-outer-joint-for-tamiya-tt-01-tt01-02-00019744 Hope that helps.
  3. Sounds like your having fun, the customization or mechanical improvements is ready makes Tamiya kits fun to work with. Especially when many parts swap between different chassis even when they are not included in a that particular chassis. the diff idea sounds good. I guess a wax paper might be the go for greater longevity? Just watch that heavy grease doesn’t escape into the gearbox and slow the whole gearbox down and potentially overheating your motor. not to mention making a mess in the gearbox. Juls
  4. Alot of people who race M03/05 run locked front diffs on the race track, I doubt it'd be a issue on the road, unless you where running Type A slicks or something equally sticky. The M05RA parts, don't alter the stock suspension, but instantly give you 3-4mm more ride height, so it's more of a "bolt on" job done kind of situation. Remember that M05 stock doesn't come with oil shocks, simply adding longer shocks doesn't work without physical modification, so from Tamiyas perspective those uprights made alot of sense, this being said while the RA uprights prevent you from getting more droop (arms going lower) the limitation of more travel is as much to do with the shock towers position, if the shock tower was taller then you could squeeze a longer shock in there for more up travel. But alas no such part exist. Juls
  5. I got my last order from RCMart last week, Came by Fedex, 4 days from HK to me in Australia. Our internal freight system in Australia is relatively uneffected for express parcels, I don't know what your internal freight systems are like in the US as they might rely more heavily on local flights. I generally do a order a month from rcmart (and have done last 5+ years), they've never failed me yet. The thing I like most about rcmart is the order is normally dispatched in 2-3 days, alot of the other HK sellers can take up to 10 days to dispatch. Juls
  6. Looking good, you’ll be editing the title total soon, your far enough down the rabbit hole to start spiraling out of control now... I did the same thing with my M06, the one thing I regret is losing my 3racing battery strap. They appear to be completely unavailable now for 3-4 years.
  7. If there is a lot of vibration that’s getting worse as you speed up I can’t help but feel your tyres are possibly so poorly made that there weight balance is completely shot. It is possible to balance the tyres using a prop balancer, although the fronts you can nearly do it on the car if the wheel/tyre seems to want to rest in a particular position meaning it’s heavier at the bottom. of course if there is slop this will make it worse but ultimately it’s the balance of the rotating parts that’s probably causing the issue.
  8. The problem is the weight balance you’ll struggle to get enough weight over the rear tyres to have anything like decent grip. if you look at the m06, the motor is way out back behind the back wheels, and the battery is pulled back against the gearbox. if you look at the m08, the motor is just in front of the back wheels and the battery is hard against it. Both of these cars are built from the ground up as RWD. a TT02 is designed from the ground up to be 4wd therefore the weight balance is more mid centric to make it easier to drive. What you’ll find is you’ll struggle for rear traction, it’ll want to loop out all the time. If your cambers are out even slightly it’ll just constantly loop one direction and push the other. Getting some extra weight behind the back wheels will be critical to getting some traction then sorting out the overall weight balance left to right to help keep it going straight. the other thing that will help a rwd conversion is modifying it to have way more steering throw as you’ll need the extra turn in to be able to catch that back end. if you just pull out the front and centre driveshaft you’ll quickly come to realise it’s pretty hopeless without further adjustments. Juls
  9. It's been awhile since I did it, you just need to look at where the restriction is in terms of getting droop, if you take the shock off and let it fall, you can see where the hub and arm touch each other, then you just take a bit off, if you have a really sharp knife you can slice some off, but you may cut yourself in the process. you might need to take a tiny bit off the upper part to let the dogbone through at the front. You'd also want a set of CVA Mini there built up to make sure you don't grind off further than you really need, all your trying to do it get a bit more droop to give you that extra clearance. At the end of the day though, the car is still darn close to the ground and has tiny little wheels, so you need to be realistic about your running surfaces. for M05 I recommend either locking the front diff, or running some fairly stiff diff putty, if you run open diff you'll spend your whole life bogged. The M05RA uprights are a just bolt on job done situation, but they lower the dogbone in the arm so it restricts you from having more travel, the advantage of doing slight grinding and using Mini CVA as opposed to the stock super mini is that you also gain a little bit more travel which is welcome on a rally car. Juls
  10. Unfortunately in current times there is no cheap freight that doesn’t take a lifetime to arrive, with 80+% of the planes in the world grounded then there is no where to put cheap air freight items. So for the next few years sadly we just gotta suck it up and deal with the cost. My suggestion is find the item you want from a seller that has some other parts you want (but may not need) to spread out the freight cost a little. if your like any of the rest of us here, it’s not unusual for a $5 part to turn into a $200+ order....
  11. The dt03 dampers bolt straight on and are a good option for mad bull without getting silly money wise. that being said any of the Tamiya buggy shock sets should work. Juls
  12. It will work, however the Tamiya steel pinion is a one off purchase, as in, it won’t wear out. Neither will it wear the gear it’s running against. I guess you gotta figure it out value wise, for me if it’s double the money of the rrp, then it’s still worth it to have the right part. But if it’s 4 x the price the may as well try the rrp unit. Juls
  13. Gonna look alot better when the truck wheels come, you chose the same prolines I've got lined up for my DT03T build!
  14. If you get some cloth tape from the hardware store you can belt your existing tyres yourself. It’s always worked well for me.
  15. I’ve just been forking out the extra for express from rcMart. About 4 days from rcMart to my door in Australia, done this few times last few months. not sure how people manage to wait for freight by sea I simply don’t have the patience
  16. Sorry I should have expanded, you'll need to get the dremel out and relieve the C hubs from the arm to allow for more However I used CVA Mini without the long eyelets fitted, the shock in the picture you've provided has long eyelets on it. Using the shorter eyelets will shorten the length by about 4mm so the extra travel of the CVA Mini can be used.I may have used different spring cups i don't remember. I may also have used Tamiya 54583 which gives you a hinge pin point to connect the shock allowing for a longer shock. Juls
  17. The DF03 alloy dampers are a good option, will give quite a bit more travel. Also consider the trf aeration damper that comes stock on the trf201. There is also the big bore aeration dampers but they cost as much as a whole DT03 lol, I made a thread that compares all the Tamiya buggy shocks be sure to check it out before making a decision.
  18. Good to see your still messing with it, I think it’s more fun doing projects like this than just buying something that works out of the box. It’s the one thing I love about tamiyas, is that ability to mix and match stuff, often in a way never intended.
  19. They lack a rear shaft guide, expecting the damper piston and the body of the shock to hold the shaft in line on it's own. in other words, the shaft is only partially supported, virtually all tamiya alloy shocks have dual shaft guides to reduce the need for the piston to drag against the body. I bought a set of their 80mm shocks (https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-aluminum-big-bore-go-80mm-damper-set-2pcs-for-1-10-rc-offroad-buggy-black-bbg-0080bk-00085018) They have the same design as the above shocks, they only work if you keep them perfectly upright, like on a comical buggy, I tried them on a 75 degree angle and they almost lock up from the shaft forcing the piston into the body as it has no support. They ended up being useless junk for my application, I'll have to find something with a near 90 degree mounting for them to work properly.
  20. I wish yeah racing would stop making shocks that rely on the piston dragging hard against the shock body. They work ok if the shock is relatively upright but as the angle increases they seem to drag quite badly. It would be very easy to just add another rod guide above the seal to take some of the load. that being said it’s a nice design, progressive suspension (yes the people that make Harley Davidson shocks) made shocks with a similar setup many many years ago mainly for associated buggy’s and trucks. They had a shaft inside the shaft though and the adjuster was under the spring retainer. https://web.archive.org/web/20040401120031/https://www.progressivesuspension.com/rc-car.html
  21. When you buy those super expensive tyres, you don't want to be glueing them to plastic rims, so we typically use a beadlock, just so happens most are steel or aluminium. If the car isn't going to be driven quickly (over 25km/h) then the heavier the wheels the better for general crawling and trail truck use. More weight = more grip.
  22. Tyres are https://store.rc4wd.com/RC4WD-Dick-Cepek-Fun-Country-155-Scale-Tires_p_4052.html Wheels are https://store.rc4wd.com/155-Landies-Vintage-Stamped-Steel-Beadlock-Wheels-White_p_1431.html wheels and tyres are very hard to get right, particularly considering most tires have different outer diameters. Generally speaking for cc01/Cc02 you want a outside diameter of 85-95mm, generally most bodys will need minor trimming for tyres above 85mm. im very happy with my combo, the tyres are exceptionally good, they are soft enough to give me over 1” square footprint. The wheels where a bit lighter than I was hoping but I ended up adding wheel weights. (Of course stock they are much heavier than plastic). The tyres are quite close to the shock. But they still miss.
  23. Check my buggy damper thread it lays out the differences in the hi caps, including explaining the mini version being narrower than the short versions included on the top force kit. Juls
  24. I’ve not managed to break the frp stays. I would have thought aluminium would just bend anyway unless it’s very good quality, which is unlikely. I have not personally heard of anyone deliberately replacing the shock towers. Unless what you mean is the suspension mounts. which is a very common upgrade. I run the carbon reinforced parts myself as I have them grinded down for more steering and suspension travel.
  25. I just made one from a plastic spacer, a drill and a grub screw. Most Tamiya enthusiasts that keep all their spare parts included in each kit will have a heap of these. Commonly included with oil shocks. I agree it is annoying though, xv01 isn’t the only car they do that with.
  • Create New...