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Juls1

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Everything posted by Juls1

  1. Get some CVD's, also get steel hinge pin balls and alloy or carbon reinforced mounts if you can find them. As said above TRF201 front spring set works well, if you want softer get the TRF501 front spring set. I believe the springs included with the long damper kit as slightly different again, there is also front spring set off DF03 however these are firmer again than the 201 set, so 501/soft 201/med DF03/hard The plastic hinge pin balls I've broken a few times. Juls
  2. As far as I know original CVA Dampers came in Mini and short models, the CVA V2 is available in super mini, mini and short. there is also some other longer CVA style dampers that came on some monster trucks, but differed slightly from normal CVA's. What might be more useful is tell us what car your trying to put shocks on, and or what your trying to take them off. Juls
  3. The Long Damper kit requires 65-70mm long shocks, the GF01 set is 65mm with normal eyelet, and 69mm with long eyelet (you would probably use them with the long eyelet) the shocks included on the pro rally are 55mm as they are used on the pro rally, with long eyelets you'll get 59mm they use the bodys off 42102 and the shafts vary depending on what car they are on. Both the Pro Rally and Pro TC use exactly the same shock bodys, but the pro TC uses a longer front shaft (yes the pro TC needs longer shocks than the pro rally due to the reversable suspension arms shock position being wider out and tamiya not making a special shock tower.) All in all the GF-01 Damper kit is 10mm longer full stop, with about 5mm more shaft stroke. Another Option is front buggy shocks, however most of the tamiya options the fronts are not sold separately. I've looked at, and tried many options, both aftermarket and tamiya. The GF01 damper set is by far the best option in terms of outright performance and value for money at under $40usd for shocks and springs. You may need to do a bit of trimming on the chassis/arms to get full use of the travel these have, alternatively just put a O ring on the shaft inside to limit that last 2mm of shaft travel you can't use without mods. Forget about what car they are for, they are very very high quality shocks, short of the anodized coating and the gold shafts, they are basically identical to TRF Dampers but a 5mm longer damper body and 5mm longer shafts. I have tried the yeah racing and 3 racing options, they do not compare, and ultimately a waste of money, I Also tried Gmade XD, while they are good quality they have half the damper shaft travel, and you cannot get soft enough springs. You'll never go wrong with Genuine tamiya alloy dampers. If you want the ultimate in performance then 2 pairs of 54504 and 1 pack of 54507 and 1 pack of 54506 that'll set you back about the $100-110 USD Area, you almost certainly need to do some cutting/trimming to squeeze out all the travel they offer.
  4. The pro version shocks are too short for the long damper kit if you want to still have decent ground clearance. The shocks needed on the long damper kit are the GF01 damper kit part 54670 (or the identical cc01 dampers 54541) these are easily as good as the TRF dampers on the pro kit as they include the resin pistons, but the They do not include springs, you will need TRF201 front spring kit 54221, hard up front soft out back. If you find the trf201 set too firm you’ll need trf501 front spring kit 53974. Finally if your switching over to the long damper setup you may want to consider the sway bar kit if you have any dreams of running occasionally on grippy surfaces.
  5. The rc damper parts are all GPM parts. As a general rule GPM parts are mid level quality, are best used where you don’t need precision. I would avoid the shock absorbers. look closely at this rcdamper/gpm Dt03 suspension mount picture attached, pay close attention to how the hinge pins both lean the same direction, as opposed to opposite directions like they should, one suspension arm is leaning way forward giving positive toe where the other leaning way backwards giving negative toe. Brand new parts, I stupidly bought two and both where totally unusable junk and obscenely expensive junk at that. That being said most of the stuff that doesn’t involve managing or altering geometry is generally ok. In reality most people would buy the part and screw it on and think how pretty it is, then later on wonder why the car handles like it’s made out of sticks and fishing line..... If there is a yeah racing or 3racing option, they are almost always superior quality.
  6. That’s pretty much exactly what happens, some diffs you can reverse the bearing too. The issue it always that the 4wd chassis doesn’t have enough rear wheel weight to drive car properly, some chassis you might be able to add some weight to make it work. I’ve done it on a stretched and widened MF01X the outcome was... meh.
  7. If the knuckles plastic thread hole is already stripped I see no reason why this isn’t the perfect part recovery option. Particularly on rare hard to get bits.
  8. This works if you don’t loctite, because if you loctite it and it’s bond is stronger than the bond of the insert in the plastic then the insert spins in the plastic. Of course this depends on the plastic and the ability of the insert to grab. generally I just put a dob of medium super glue on the thread before it goes into plastic. Only comes out when I want it to then. But... you gotta be careful doing knuckles as you can glue the pin in the C hub accidentally if you slip.... can’t win..
  9. The centre one way achieves a similar outcome but you keep your normal diff up front. essentially a one way diff has one way bearings in it, so it drives one direction only. Leaving you with 4WD but rear wheel only brakes/engine braking. Generally under power a front one way diff usually works similar to a spool But only when full power is on. This does depend if it’s a single or dual bearing diff, dual bearing diffs tend to just drive whichever wheel is inside. the one way centre puts a one way bearing on the centre driveshaft, essentially leading to the same outcome, however under drive you still get normal differential action, while off power there can be some diff interaction instead of completely decoupled like you get with a one way diff. I have them in both the second hand DF03’s I bought, I’d prefer not to have them because I’ve got no front brakes now, the moment you even back off slightly the car try’s to spins out. Really you only want a front one way if you need rapid rotation, so generally only very tight, relatively low speed tracks. Some of the drawbacks can be tuned out if you remove all drag brakes so the car rolls when you back off and alter the handling a bit. personally in most cases I’d rather not have them.
  10. I had trouble with this when my EPA (end point adjustment) on my digital radio was not long enough, and it lost it's end point programming, it refused to operate just flashed away its lights forever. increased the EPA slightly and re run the end point setting program on the ESC and it started working again. I have had this issue with other ESC's before, not saying it's what your problem is, I don't know how your radio works, but if it has EPA make sure it's at maximum, and that all trims are centered as they can alter your EPA too. I'm going to assume your model is steering perfectly fine. Juls
  11. Really love the DT03 as a great sand rail and general bash machine, a few of the things I've found with the DT03 for bashing is. 1. Replace the alloy pinion gear immediatly, do not use the transmission with the included pinion gear. Tamiya part 54629 for 19T or 54628 for 17T are steel, and don't wear, resulting in a perfectly clean long lasting gearbox. The stock alloy pinion wears rapidly and fills the gearbox with aluminum, ruining the whole thing. 2. the adjustable upper arms are not that great on the basher, the ball joints constantly pop off, leaving you having to retrieve the car constantly thats not broken, but might as well be. the standard plastic upper arms are far more reliable for bashing. 3. DF03 dampers are a substantial upgrade, not least because they are about 5-10mm longer, giving more travel and more ground clearance but also dramatically improved damping and bottom out resistance if built properly, alternatively Gmade XD dampers are suitable, 75mm up from, rear can be 90 or 100mm versions, not as smooth as tamiya but equally durable. Reccomend the carbon towers for extra shock positions. 4. The steel dogbones are less of a upgrade than they first appear, the plastic setup is incredibly durable. The steel units seem to wear quickly and are easily bent and rust at the thought of a beach run. If you must get rid of the plastic dogbones, go straight for the CVD's tamiya part 53791, you will also require 53790. All in all though, its a great tough car, I've got my DT03 Black build here, just need to finish it and post it up, but My black edition, will be a shelf queen. For me the best part about the black edition is the black chassis. the inclusion of turnbuckles and metal dogbones is a step backwards unless you are racing. Juls
  12. DF01 isn't really going to cope that well with 3S and a decent powerplant if you have grippy tyres, if you have slippery tyres the gearbox might survive. the problem is the top cover allows the gears to flex out of place, there is mods to bolt it down harder, but they only help a tiny bit. DF03 is better with a slipper clutch but then your stuck with ball diffs, which don't take too kindly to super crazy motors, but plenty of people do put fairly severe power plants in them. the DB01 may take the power, but it's not really a basher, again ball diffs could be the limit, although a DB01RR may be a better choice with slipper clutch as standard and gear diffs. I've got a number of traxxas vehicles that all claim to take 3S, which you can put the 3S in it, but I'm lucky to last 1 pack without breaking it, and they are far from immune to drivetrain problems when used on 3S. Run on 2S you can go for months without a issue, 1 3S pack and it's broken. Tamiyas are not really any different. This being said you havn't shown/told us what motor your running, just saying it's 4300kv means nothing, Ive got 5000kv motors that are hopelessly slower and less powerful than other motors of 3000kv. If it's just a cheapie motor, one of those smaller internals types, then 3S on those isn't really anything special.
  13. The DT03 Black is good value, but from a durability perspective the adjustable upper arms and metal driveshafts are a step backwards really, the ball cups pop off too easily once you bump up the power and start cartwheeling it, while they don't break, it becomes annoying having to put it back together many times per battery. The DT03 Rising Fighter has usually come with bonus bearings and oil shocks, at the beach with paddle tyres and a sensorless brushless it's unstoppable, I've run alot of really stupid power with really stupidly grippy tyres and the transmission and plastic dogbones have taken it all in there stride, amazingly reliable drivetrain, (assuming you never put the stock aluminium pinion gear in, buy the steel pinion from day one. Tamiya 54628 or 54629) my favorite Tamiya Sand Rail by far, but suitable paddle tyres are becoming harder to find as Proline 10101-00 has been discontinued and stocks are rapidly disapearing worldwide. Of course you can still buy them on rims, but the offset is all wrong because the wheels suit a traxxas vehicle.
  14. The zahak/DN01 comes with white wheels unless you manage to find a Japanese domestic market model which came with pink wheels. Rest of the world got white. As far as 2wd buggy’s though, without going to a TRF, it’s the most modern and best handling. The difference in driving quality between the DN01 and DT02 is not small. It’s really a very big jump, where the DT02 can be frustrating to drive the DN01 just does what you ask it to without any real fuss. I run a 6.5T sensored in mine for a bit, the diff slips a little but otherwise I’ve not managed to break it. There is a Kyosho gear diff that can be shoe horned in if the slippy ball diff bothers you, but you’ll certainly want the slipper clutch then. if I was happy to have Slightly less grippy tyres and a slightly light on power plant I’d probably be happy with a top force with the proper top force hicap shocks and suitably soft springs (the springs included with the hicap dampers are idiotically hard for some reason and makes the shocks feel crap when actually they are some of the smoothest on the market) power wise a appropriately geared 13.5 sensored system is gentle enough without being horribly slow, but a modest sensorless system with a decent battery just causes the transmission to spread and skip (even with mods to the gear case) unless you run slippery tamiya style tires. When it comes to top force though, it handles pretty much the same as a manta ray and it’s DF01 variants (dirt thrasher, blazing star, terra conquerer). so any of them is a option, except only the top force can really handle a full sized square shaped lipo pack. there is a lot of other buggy’s, the DB01 is mentioned but I think it’s not a great basher, it’s a bit intricate and not suited as well to abuse as the DN01, that’s purely my experience, others may differ. The Zahak wing and body are very tough. personally I can’t think of a reason why you shouldn’t have a zahak and a top force..... why only have one? It’s not like it’d be the start of a bottomless pit of necessity to own as many Tamiya chassis types as possible....
  15. Is it just me or has the world gone mad about Tamiya stuff in General.. I can't find a new racing fighter or black edition DT03 for less than $300AUD Delivered anywhere. All my local stores that usually had 40-50 kits in stock, all have like 2 or 3 kits left. It's not like the current situation can make people want to buy tamiyas now instead of RTR cars..
  16. What rear uprights are you using? Can’t really see in the pic but it looks like they are not xv01 parts? My xv01 has a few degrees, but it looks like you have 10-15 degrees. Almost like you’ve fitted toe in uprights, or fitted them on the wrong sides. my arms are quite turned in quite a bit but I think the upright straightens it out.
  17. Buy the Hicaps, they are worth it. DF03 shocks will work fine, If you HAVE to go aftermarket, then Gmade XD Shocks are decently reliable and strong shocks, they are not as smooth as tamiya alloy shocks, but way better than anything cheaper than them. You will probably want 95mm versions for rear 85mm for front, Note that you the Gmades have significantly less travel than the Tamiya specific shocks. For Off Road, Avoid GPM, Integy, 3 racing, yeah racing and anything in those low price ranges, the stock tamiya plastic shocks are more reliable, and often higher performing. If it seems to good to be true, then it is. Juls
  18. You need to partially fill them because they are emulsion/Aeration type shock. meaning they have no bladder Full of air to compensate for when the piston shaft moves into the body and takes up space inside the shock displacing the oil. this means the air to compensate for the shaft intrusion in the shock body must be in with the oil. you can tweek the amount of oil by building then checking without the spring of the shock shaft can fully compress. If it cannot then you’ve got hydraulic lock, you need to remove some oil, if it just plunges in and bottoms out too easily then add oil till there is a bit of resistance at end stroke. If there is too much resistance then the seals may potentially pop on a hard landing, unlikely on good quality shocks but cheap ones it’s certainly possible. Juls
  19. Lol, yes NIMH are ideally 1C charging only!!!
  20. If you can afford it the type S or SR is the best model, of course money wise it’s approaching a TB04 or TA06. But given its spec that’s understandable. what it’s going to come down to is if you can get the body separate, and how deep your pockets are. While I kinda get the box holding the car thing, I guess you’ll have to decide if that’s a deal breaker or not. I’m not sure I could justify a cardboard box over many hundreds of dollars of hopups for only a small increase in initial cost. Juls
  21. The graphene has more punch because of its discharge rate and capacity, it’s nothing to do with the graphene. 5000mah x 90c graphene pack = 450A possible discharge rate 4000mah x 25c zippy pack = 100A possible discharge initial punch is related to how much energy you can obtain instantly, if there isn’t enough current, there’s not as much punch. how is that graphene pack going? I bought 6 graphene packs, none of them lasted more than 10-15 charges, before either dropping a cell or dramatically losing performance. I’ve got old 30c standard lipo’s still going strong after many 100’s of charges of charges. Seems to me the graphene thing still has a long way to go, A few of the manufacturers ended up having clearance sales of 90% off on their graphene packs, no warranty of course lol. hope yours keeps going, I lost a lot of money on them. Bigworm, glad to see you here, Tamiya’s have their ups and down, the TT02S is one of my favorite cars on my shelf, I’m surprised to hear about the part you broke. Mine gets used as a bash drifter/tag/demo derby and for the most part it holds up pretty well. Hope you get her up and running soon!
  22. I really loved this chassis as I had one in my teens. The TL01LA is where it’s best, to some extent that transforms the car from pretty basic to relatively sophisticated. avoid the carbon driveshaft and lightweight chassis if it’s a runner, they where both too fragile for street bashing. Juls
  23. I generally buy what I like the look of, but I guess that equates to a combination of my teenage rc experiences and my interest in rally and buggy’s. Without making a huge story I’ll just give a chassis number list instead, you can figure it out from there. My introductory chassis the DT01 (fighter buggy rx, first Tamiya at 12yrs old) TA01, TA02, TA02SW, TA02T, TA03F, FF01, FF02,FF03, TL01, TB01, M03, M04, M05, M06, DT01, DT02, DT02MS, DT03, DT03T, DF01, DF01 Top Force, DF02, DF03, DF03MS, DB01RR, DB02, Super Astute (re re), Dyna Storm, Dyna Blaster, Fox, Wild One, G601, F201, F104, XV01... ummm I think that’s it, I’ve got many multiples of those with varying bodys. I’m trying to cut back, but there is so many chassis types I don’t have... yet... I have a few handfuls of traxxas vehicles, a couple of the interesting Kyosho models, a few other random models. You know, stuff we don’t talk about here
  24. Those are great motors I run a 13.5t in my TT02S, I can thermal the TBLE-02S even with the optional fan and the motor isn’t getting hot (so not over geared.) it does go very well. If you put a large enough pinion and run full timing I think you’ll find the 21.5t goes well.
  25. The GMade shocks have very little travel compared to the Tamiya’s and are quite bulky. They don’t compare in smoothness or performance to the cc01/gf01 shocks, not even close. The gmades are a nice tough shock to put on a traxxas basher. spring wise for cc01/gf01 the trf201 front springs can be used but they are quite firm, may suit in high traction conditions. For rally with sway bars the tfr501x front springs will be better, particularly for the rear, you might like to buy both sets, the 201’s suit better up front and the 501’s are better suited out back. Juls
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