Juls1

I have some 19804852 which I “think” are the right ones. when they get here Monday I’ll confirm. the ones in that diff picture come with the new xv02/TT02 diff that I used as the center diff. This new diff is said to use TRF419 gears so I’m taking a leap assuming the cross pins will be TRF419 units.

I did have a bit of a play but decided against it because as you say we can’t get the body low enough. I hope someone like embie racing might make us a shorter tower with the body mount in it that we can use with GF01 shocks up front. Won’t lose any suspension travel at all just gain the standard body post position.

The big bores are a significant step up in fit and finish and ultimately performance. but for their price I think there is other areas you can spend money first. Only when you’ve done everything else and you’ve got spare cash laying around would I consider buying them. I’ve run these shocks on DB0’s so I’ve had prior experience but for this build it was as much as anything about going all out for the build thread. I don’t regret the purchase that’s for sure. But given a set is almost half the cost of the car (or nearly double what a TT02 would cost entirely) not everyone would be able to justify the spend especially when the kit comes with fantastic shocks to begin with.

So next up we have to fit the electronics, I couldn’t resist just half *** slapping them in to get a weight distribution measurement to see really what we are up against vs the xv01. So the good old xv01 comes up at 59/41 front/rear weight, in the past when I’ve done this it’s been 60/40. But either way it’s not a surprise to anyone that she’s front heavy. now onto the XV02, we still have some front bias, with a 53/47 ratio things are much more balanced. This car is certainly going to be a better rally racer. But is it going to be as much fun for regular bashers as the xv01?

So finally gotten back to this. dampers are fitted up, tamiya have pretty much maxed out the suspension limits from the word go. The main limitation is the driveshaft in the diff out drive, if the suspension is made any longer the dogbone will fall out. I ended up option for white springs no7 piston and 20w oil as a starting point for out the back. Up front I went with the black spring no 6 piston and 20wt oil as a starting point. interestingly the front sway bar passes through the shock spring. I’m sure this probably doesn’t happen with the stock shocks, it’s just a issue with the big bores. It isn’t a deal breaker though the sway bar seems to stay between the coils throughout the travel so it doesn’t cause any problems I can see so far. Will see with a bit of use.

Yep I did wonder if those fit, never got round to trying them yet.

In terms of long damper kit springs. they are the blue springs from 53974 If you buy 53974 kit Soft Red: 3.17 Medium Yellow: 3.58 Hard Blue: 3.80 (kit xv01) Can also use trf201 front spring kit 54221 Soft Brown: 2.80 Medium Black: 2.90 Hard Green: 3.10 from memory I think I run greens out back and yellow up front for my long damper kit in off road trim. If it was me wanting to run mainly on road I’d have a spare set of short shocks to clip on it with harder short travel road specific springs. the car does have a 60:40 weight split, so it’s always going to be tail happy, if that’s not your thing, Maybe consider a embie racing chassis for it this will allow you to put the battery cross ways right at the back. http://shop.embieracing.com/22-tamiya-xv01 I would also consider getting a proper camber setup station, they are only about $100-120usd for low cost ones and will allow you to make your car handle identically left and right.(instead of pushing one way and looping out the other) Don’t assume that because your camber links are identical length that your camber left to right will be the same. https://www.yeahracing.com/universal-set-up-system-ver-2-for-1-10-on-road-black-yt-0140bk-00062025 https://www.skyrc.com/Accessory/RacingEouipment

It’s unlikely that the 53075 will be re released, however every set of dampers out there will have spare unused pistons so maybe you can find someone willing to part with their spare pistons. i used up my spares on my CC02.

Since this post I found the hi cap mini dampers (front buggy) pistons fit, they are not white resin, but the plastic is stiffer and tighter fitting than the stock CVA short piston and does improve performance. But yes the kyosho piston may work if it has the right hole in the middle.

Keep in mind speed passion website is dead. Last social media post was 2017…

I run a sensorless 4000kv hobbywing setup in my dt03 on 7.4v I can’t see off road much more than that being needed. With paddles at the beach it’s about spot on imo. Endless wheelies. maybe 4600kv might be manageable, but I think beyond that your talking about only smooth flat surfaces not proper off roading. Cheap sensored setups are rarely as fast or powerful as similar costing sensorless systems. Timing etc is usually adjustable in hobbywing sensorless systems in the esc.

I think if you’ve not tried a TA02 before then it sounds like it’s a itch you need to scratch.

I’ve seen 3 separate tl01’s advertised with pictures of everything but the driveshaft side. They don’t respond when asked if it has the prop shaft. I think it’s a good idea to check the car isn’t worth anything without it. Although you might be able to make your own out of readily available carbon shaft, just be prepared to replace it when it fractures.

TL01 is a very solid basis for a fun car, the chassis still appears to be a current part and readily available. The only thing I can say if your ever looking at a second hand one MAKE SURE “it has its prop shaft” as the prop shaft does not exist as a separate part these days. The reason they tend to not be included is because people bought the hopup carbon drive shaft, then ditched the steel shaft. Then after a short period the carbon shaft cracks up the middle at the pin ends causing it to bind and twist preventing the car from running. Then because they ditched the steel shaft and can’t get a replacement, it’s a good trick for people to sell online to a unsuspecting buyer. Sadly none of the MF01x prop shafts are compatible, all the aftermarket units are long gone. And the regular steel shaft never comes up for sale. long and short, TL01 is a great chassis. But without the stock steel prop shaft its rear drive only. The TL01LA is a really good car, makes a great rally car too.

If you’ve already got a tt02 then it makes sense to try out a ta02. A word of warning though as a on road car the tt01/02 runs rings around even the most bombed to heck TA02, it’s a old car and the handling is comparatively terrible in stock form, it can be made manageable with a lot of work, but the flimsy bendy suspension is only made worse by acres of slop and a chassis combination that forever seems to be tweeked and never straight or square. if you don’t know any better, it’s fine, but for me the nostalgia is actually best served as a shelf queen. the DF01 platform is actually a fantastic off road basher.. TA01/2 fails to impress on the road by todays standards. It’s not terrible as a on/off road hacker. if the plan wasn’t to put the car into hard service then I’m all for the more TA02’s in the collection the better. What exactly do you want out of the car that’s making you choose either TT02D or ta02 Rere? have you considered a regular xv01? Most of the hopups have been Re released as many fit xv02. It’s pretty decent on the street in stock form, but switch up the springs if you want a more street specific drive. The xv01 has all the pro level on road setup ability’s but with a 60/40 weight distribution. I can guarantee it’ll be far more fun to drive than a TA02 or TT chassis if your just looking for rubber tyre lol’s.

The stock xv01 has a 60/40 bias I need to get off my *** and finish my xv02 so it can go on the 4 point scales. does seem a bit odd putting the motor at the back like that, if you really wanted a 50:50 weight distribution you might be better off converting an existing touring car.

The springs included with Xv02, xv01ld, df03 dampers, aeration dampers etc are all 40mm long, 15mm external 13mm internal. the longer spring in the 50519 which is the standard front spring on DT01/2/3 df02/3 (rear spring on cc01, standard springs on TA02T and others) are slighter shorter at 36mm x 15 x 13mm. yes there is room on the standard xv02 dampers for a 50mm spring. But tamiya don’t offer it for the narrow body. Juls

They are identical to the front springs on all tamiya buggy’s and the long damper version of the XV01. I actually reckon the xv02 spring kit is just the front springs out of the DF03 spring kit without change. (Given they are for the same damper and they look identical it only makes sense) so trf501 and trf201 front springs are the same size. Most of the old school rally cars that came with hi cap mini (not super mini) came with the same size spring, in fact there is a pair included in 50519. Long story short pretty much all tamiya front buggy springs for 10mm body dampers will fit.

So moving onto the shocks. First up lets compare stock XV01 Shocks with stock XV02 shocks. You'll see the stock XV01 made use of 11mm of damper travel, the XV02 we jump up 6mm to 17mm stroke. Where with the XV01 the stock dampers didn't use the full capability of the suspension design and modding was popular, the XV02 is completely maxed out from the factory. Here we compare the XV02 Damper with the popular mod for the XV01 the GF01 Damper, where the XV02 is limited to 17mm stroke due to drivetrain issues, the GF01 damper pumps out 18mm of stroke which cannot be used entirely on the XV01 without Mods, but can be done with lots of cutting and grinding. What is a bit frustrating here is that they could have gotten away with the GF01 (CC01) dampers instead of using the DF03 front dampers, why would that be better? Because the stock setup the body mounts are moved away from the tower to the bumper in order to allow the body to be placed low enough due to the tall towers. This is a pain because most Tamiya rally body's already have holes in the shock tower position. If they had gone with the GF01 style damper then it's likely we could have kept the standard body mount position without any loss of suspension travel. So why did they do this? Well there is no hopup from the GF01 damper currently, but from the DF03 Front we can upgrade to the Front big bore buggy dampers, maybe thats the rational? but I would have preferred to have been able to drop my XV01 bodys onto my XV02 chassis personally. Here is a Comparison of all the XV dampers set at their max stroke, keep in mind the XV02 is limited by its driveshafts falling out at around the 17mm stroke mark. The XV01 is limited by the droop stops and it's steering, lots of grinding of suspension parts can bring this out to 17/18mm. Keep in mind however the stock XV01 only runs 11mm of stroke. Now we have that out of the way, lets compare the stock XV02 dampers (DF03 front) to the Big bores. The big bores are noticeably more complicated and are emulsion type (air mixed with oil) compared to the stock dampers which have bladders (air separated from oil). The Big bores are quite a bit fatter, and do have nicer parts as standard. They carry a fair bit more oil and can be run on slightly lighter oil due to the reduction of oil bypass this means pack can occur more consistently, thus you can run lighter damping with the same bottom out control. The Big bores are so much fatter in fact, that the stock XV02 Damper bodys fit inside the big bore damper body!

If your going to use it on road and not lower and firm up the suspension you’ll likely want firm sway bars. oil wise really depends on what springs your using and what the vehicle weight is, and if or not your using sway bars. I would start with the kit recommendation and then move from there if necessary. The long and the short is, the answer to your question depends on lots of different factors that you’ll need to judge yourself once you drive it. Juls

Look for something around the 8-10kg mark, minimum speed should be 0.1, preferably less. I run 9kg 0.08 in my xv01. for xv02 you want low profile, otherwise you need spacers which lifts the servo up higher which creates more flex in the mount.

Yeah front is different I’m toying with getting a second rear tower to see if a standard setup is possible. The issue is if you can get the bonnet low enough.

Have had to have a temp hiatus but will be back into it later this month.

Battery management is everything. 1. Never ever leave battery’s discharged longer than a day. 2. Never ever leave battery’s charged longer than a day 3. Always store your battery’s at partial charge (30-80%) 4. Never overcharge your battery 5. never over discharge your battery. 6. if the pack is gets puffy, dispose of it safely, don’t try to keep using it. been doing this for 10 years now, before that I had pack after pack die. Since then I’ve only thrown out 1 pack, I’ve got about 16 packs in total some are easily 10 years old.

The kit springs are very hard, if you go longer travel with sway bars you will want softer suspension anyway. I generally run a fairly hard spring up front and a softer out back. There is 2 different TRF front springs, one for trf201 the other for trf501. One set is much softer than the other. The df03 front springs also fit, the df03 set is the firmest of the three, I believe the new xv02 spring kits are just df03 front spring set, so of course the new xv02 spring kit is a option should you be chasing firmer springs.