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Juls1

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Everything posted by Juls1

  1. Latest news is production starts mid/late may. Apparently they are waiting on a lexan delivery. Juls
  2. I’ve been using mip drivers for years, never broke one, never stripped a head while using them. Can’t say the same for the multiple other brands i’ve tried. Yes they are expensive, but these days, for me at least, anything else feels like wasted money.
  3. I think i’m only around the 70-80 mark, but hey who’s counting (clearly not me i’ve lost track) i think there isn’t a right amount, i’m quite happy to sit on something i might not do anything with this year, next year, next decade, maybe ever. But i have them cause i like them. Ultimately ones either financial situation OR financial sensibilitys come into play with whats the right amount of rc kits to be sitting on. I know when i was younger that selling a used project was always to partially fund the next project. As times gone on and financial situation improves as you age, well you can find yourself with new projects piling up as the old ones you either couldn’t bare to part with (or couldn’t be bothered). for the OP, i can only say that often these tamiya cars can become rare and valuable with time, if you have no real attachment to what your going to get rid of, and you need the funds for something else you want to do more then its a easy choice to move them on. But if you kinda like them all, don’t need the money, have the space. Leave em on the shelf. I dunno how many cars i’ve sold i’ve then had to buy it all again later at great expense and effort, thats not to say i didn’t enjoy doing it all over again.
  4. If you just press down on the bumper of the car and watch the top of the c hub, they flex in a way that alters your caster as it moves through the suspension travel. Probably not a big deal but it is very obvious if you know what to look for.
  5. Yes square products tend to be alot more expensive than yeah racing. But also often only available in japan or a very occasion european hobby store. The quality does “appear” to be any better than the others, but maybe they use better aluminium.
  6. This is a project i’ve been meaning to take on for awhile now, one thing to note is that the cc01 chassis as a layout, isnt really compatible with a “Dakar Rally Raid” vehicle, that is if that kind of thing bothers you (it bothers me! lMAO lol!), it’s layout is more inline with a us style rally raid truck. It’s worth noting both the VW and Pajero body’s tamiya offered, in the real life cars they have IRS not live axle suspension. Tamiyas Mitsubishi Racing Lancer on the DF01 chassis is probably the best scale replication of a dakar vehicle from tamiya. I wish they would make a lengthened and widened version of the xv02 with a dakar style body on it. i have a Traxxas UDR as well as a vaterra twin hammers, both using solid rear axles, both come with locked rear diffs which from a scale perspective is fair but in reality the locked rear diff just makes the traction rolling 100% worse. Both vehicles ended up with rear diffs, and i added sway bars to the twin hammers so it could handle moderate amounts of speed and traction in a corner. from a perspective of limiting the rolling i would run the rear diff as loose as possible, you can firm up the front diff with some AW grease but i’d using something very very light outback if your favouring unrealistic high speed turns over scale 4wding. in my head my design was going to and probably will include sway bars, had not figured the details yet but i don’t think it’ll be too hard to sort out, i have got a few ideas. I am keen to run as long a travel as possible with soft suspension so thats why i will head down the fitting swap bars route. You also won’t be able to use high grip tyres, as mentioned above the tamiya tyres already have just about the right combination of slip to limit the traction rolling issue. Funnily enough my traxxas udr came with tyres of similar compound to the cc01 stock rubber, so i ordered some proline tyres for it thinking i would get nice soft tyres but again they where just as hard as the stock units, having spent a bit of time with the car i understand now why it must be so. Solid axle rear suspension layouts utterly suck on rc cars that travel well beyond scale speeds, especially if you want to run a reasonable amount of off road length suspension and any kind of soft high traction tyres. Don’t let that put you off the project, 99% of the fun is the tinkering to make it work and the satisfaction gained from your ideas put into practice.
  7. I couldn’t find it online but then realised i had some sitting waiting for me to build my xv01 pro tc eventually one day maybe… think they are hard to find now. If your just looking for a stiffer part the carbon ones are a bit less flexy than the stock part but still not rigid like the alloy ones. the Ta05ifs, TB evo 4, TB03, FF03 and XV01 pro tc all had the same suspension as the TT-02S. Trf416 used similar parts, not sure on cross compatibilty. There is also a number of different castor settings and materials in that c hub which kinda adds to the confusion about whats directly compatible.
  8. Funnily enough i just got a email back, mould has been poured, they just need to drill and sand it then start production i believe they are making about 50 of them. But it could be a few weeks yet, they did not give a eta.
  9. Td2 and td4 would be fine, they are by far the best options in the current fleet if you “must” run tamiya. obviously any associated/xray/losi etc is the status qou, they are all very very similar cars get what has the best local support if you want to go down that road. I can speak from experience running a tamiya amongst a group of everything else is quite satisfying, these days im running trf211xm and DB01/DB02 (off road clay) (also run xray scx) but you do need deep pockets and be your own hobby store. You could pickup a barely used Db01 on buyee with probably all the hopups for the cost of a modern race buggy. But if your going to run tamiya you need to be doing it because it feels right. It won’t by any means be the best value for money option and you’ll need to be prepared to source your parts overseas and not be a freight cheapskate. Race kits these days are dirt cheap really from the big brands, but they have no soul.
  10. Your looking at re re resellers, whatever the price is on ebay it will be half if you can find the original japanese listing. These people act as rip off proxy sellers basically. They are not necessarily in japan but the item is. Your not buying it directly from the actual seller on ebay.
  11. It is nice to see something different. AE, Losi, xray and the new mugen buggy are all basically identical, its hard to know who copied who with the parts layout, but they are all annoyingly similar. The suspension layout seems to be similar to their 1/8 4wd offering.
  12. I’ve not tried this, the black trf bladder might be a option or the 10mm version in cva front dampers/df03 dampers. but the lid is not really made for this i don’t know how well it will it work, it’s possible it will simply pinch the bladder into the body.
  13. So the issue is the stock dampers can be built with physically too much travel. Should you attempt to give a xv01 the same travel it suffers many many more issues than simply the dogbone popping out. putting an extra spacer in the shocks solves the issue, it would have been nice if tamiya would have put a slightly longer dogbone in however i believe that would limit the uptravel. The trick here is tamiya lowered the diffs significantly in order to give more ground clearance, add to that the buggy suspension parts and the dogbone lives at an odd angle compared to most vehicles we are used to. it is a ongoing issue to me that tamiya chose to put the buggy shocks on the car instead of GF01/CC01 dampers which have 2mm less stroke (which you have to shim out of the buggy dampers anyway) and they could have used reduced shock towers that would have allowed standard body mount positions. don’t get me wrong i think its a very good car, it single handedly solves most of the xv01’s limitations in terms of off road capability and raises the bar, particularly in grip and rallying ability. Like the XV01 is has a few problems, nothing that cannot be easily overcome.
  14. The Car has been finished I've only run it a couple of times. It is very very nice to drive, I think I do prefer it on dirt to the XV01, easier to drive, tons of grip, suspension works well, and it still slides 95% as realistically as the XV01. and 100% more realistic than a TT02 (or any other 50/50 car) It handles jumps much better than XV01. I think I'd still go with the XV01 for a street basher where I'm not doing unrealistic jumps. One thing to note, I ended up ditching the Big Bores and went back to the stock shocks, I honestly think they work better, I had a hard time getting the right ratio of damping and spring tension for the car to work properly with the big bores, ultimately they are not designed for the XV02, they just happen to be the same length. The Big bore springs are designed either for 4wd or 2wd buggys, which gives 6 different springs to choose from, however I just find it works better on the stock DF03 style damper. I'm still annoyed with them for not using the GF01 shocks and shorter shock towers so we could keep standard body fitting, there would have been no performance deficit to the DF03 damper as they are the same bar a 2mm stroke deficit which gets shimmed out of the DF03 front damper anyway. But I reckon they deliberately made it like they did to take the big bore dampers, It was a somewhat popular/common upgrade on the XV01LD to put buggy big bores on it, but with that super heavy front end I think they where more benefit there than they are on the XV02. But I guess it keeps them making those shocks. Juls
  15. I think I’m the outlier here. Once a kit is done I cut them up asap and put them in the recycling…..
  16. I’ve run TA01/2, TT02/S, XV01 and XV02. i would not bother with the others, the xv02 is the best rig, if your only doing dirt part of the time the RS might be a better option. if i was building something for smoother surfaces and playing/bashing fun was the name if the game the xv01 does edge out the XV02 “in fun handling” but the xv02 overall handling is superior, its off road ability and suspension is totally superior. the XV01 takes alot of cutting and grinding parts to make it super off road capable, particularly if you want to min/max the suspension travel with longer shocks. The XV02 has all that sorted out from the factory, no need to do mods, it comes with the best in slot shocks. The ability to add a centre diff is a game changer. the comment above about the xv01 being simpler than the xv02, i don’t agree. The xv01 takes alot of work to make it very off road capable. The xv02 is sorted out of the box. Basically nothing to do.
  17. In off road 2wd buggys for racing we rarely use gear diffs in slippery or bumpy tracks unless the individual just has bad luck assembling ball diffs. Generally only use gear diffs on high grip tracks like carpet or well groomed indoor clay. The reason is the ball diff has a more linear diff out and is more predictable on loose or rough surfaces. Ultimately equals more grip in low traction situations. Gear diffs tend to build tension and then let go less predictably, we try to remedy this using different weight oils but it equals a loss of diff action at lower pressures making the car harder to handle in low traction situations. The trf201 diffs where very reliable when built properly. Thankfully the diff included with the td02/04 and the bb01 are basically identical to a trf201 diff assuming you have the metal diff nut. i raced my td2 with the ball diff for an entire season (5 x 5 min races x 10 meetings plus practice) and didn’t touch it at all the whole time and its still fine. I’ve never had a oil filled gear diff last that long without springing a leak. if your bashing on high grip surfaces with a brushless then go the gear diff. If your bashing on loose surfaces like gravel, dirt tracks. The ball diff should be fine and is possibly a better option.
  18. So TBG officially have my Leonis shell. They said bodys will be available early next year. So I guess you could preorder one if your keen.
  19. The xerun motors. Have 6 mount holes, so technically 6 different directions the motor can mount. I now realise if you only have 2 mount holes in the motor, then yes you could struggle to find the sweet spot.
  20. You’ll need the diff nut, the ball diff is basically identical to a trf201x ball diff, I run a season racing stock and never needed to touch it, it’s a very good ball diff. a slipper clutch is a good idea to help on slippery surfaces and reduces wheelies when landing jumps with the power on. I ran a hobbywing v10 g4 in stock class, i had no issues mounting it with its top mounted binding posts. I’m not sure why people keep saying that top wire motors can’t fit, although there may not be enough room if you want to run tubes on the motor instead of directly soldering. It’s a good little car, I enjoyed racing it in stock class last season.
  21. They still exist. https://www.rcjaz.com.au/tamiya-m05-extension-wheel-base-kit-257mm-3racing-m0531lb-p-90015718.html Add a TL01LA kit (or the yeah racing wr02/gf01 kit) and you get a pretty capable setup.
  22. Nimh and nicad chargers will continue to charge until they see a voltage drop which signals that the battery can take no more capacity. With nimh being set more sensitive than nicad chargers. You may notice the charger slows down near the max voltage as it notices a voltage drop it drops off the current until it pack reaches the pre determined allowable voltage drop at all current settings. The max voltage is generally around 1.5v per cell. What you saw is fairly normal, you should see up to 9v from a 6 cell pack charging, although it’s sometimes lower with ageing batterys lipo’s are different where we need to fix the charging end point at 4.2v per cell to prevent damage. Unless they are HV cells in which case it’s 4.3v per cell.
  23. Both Australian and UK governments are forcing international company’s to do this. I noticed it occurring simultaneously. While I don’t know if PJ are collecting Australian GST yet. Here in Australia any business with a turnover of $70,000 Australian dollars or more must legally collect GST. So customs records the value and qty of parcels coming through and then forces the international company’s to collect GST from Australian customers if they want to continue trading in Australia. So far for me it’s been, eBay, aliexpress, amazon, buyee and rcmart all charging/collecting GST. This is only going to get more and more as time goes on. But what it does do is makes you double think is it going to be competitive buying it locally, which for me if we are talking current models is almost always better buying kits locally. This didn’t used to be the case. However there is still little choice when it comes to parts. They don’t exist here.
  24. 17t is 9.3:1 the 19T is 8.3:1 its 0.8 module (32p) so a few teeth does make a fair difference. It will depend a lot on the surface but I melted a few 12T 550 motors in my holiday buggy (dt02) both running 7.4v lipo. All I can say is monitor it closely, my experience was I killed one motor on its first pack, the other was about 6/7 packs in. I think the surface made all the difference, and the run times were fairly long on 5000mah packs.
  25. I had the same issue with the yeah racing 550 motors had to dremel the end off the shaft. Also had to remove the motor sleeve. the 19t might be geared a bit high for the titan 12T, you can burn them up if you load them up too much.
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