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Juls1

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Posts posted by Juls1


  1. I suggest DF03 alloy damper set. They are a touch longer so you get a bit more ground clearance and a bit more travel. The damping performance is superior to the CVA, very close to TRF.

    Pretty much any buggy damper sets from Tamiya can be made to fit anyway. If you want to go aftermarket I’ve had a good run from gmade XD, durability is very good but they are not quite as smooth or nice as a proper Tamiya unit. 


  2. Brushed motors are great with the right weight car, right esc and right gearing. My preference is brushed on my crawlers, in particular newer 5 pole models are exceptional in crawler situations. 
     

    I get frustrated however with cooking brushed motors because I wanted to run a heavier tire or use a lipo and the kit has no real gearing options. Brushless motors can also be finicky, and cheap brushless setups are often poorer performance than brushed arrangements, particularly sensored ones, but get the combination right and the performance and reliability is miles ahead of anything brushed. But it costs more. 

    it’s really difficult to beat a hobbywing 1060 and a 550 closed can for value for money. But it never lasts well for me so that is usually left for occasional use stuff. 
     

    my preference is brushless, but part of that is being able to afford reasonable quality equipment.

    • Like 4

  3. 13 hours ago, King_Pin said:

    Is there an interchangeability database?  

    Will DT-03 parts fit with DT-02? 

    Dt03 suspension parts (not including towers) are the same, the gearbox is identical. 
     

    the chassis and shock towers differ. 
     

    shocks wise any Tamiya buggy damper set should fit. 
     

    Juls

    • Like 1

  4. In Australia a business needs to turn over $70k before they are required to charge and collect GST. The government simply tracks incoming parcels and when there is high volume that international business is required to collect gst. I’d say Rcjaz either isn’t doing enough volume or is still flying under the radar. Not sure on the process for UK but I’m sure it’s not too dissimilar.


  5. 7 hours ago, mud4fun said:

     

    Could just be that my Absima 45C LiPo's are poor

     

    If they are the same abisma 45c lipo’s I had, those where the worst batterys I’ve ever owned. I also had some nvision 45c lipo’s and again terrible. 
     

    lipos can be a bit fickle, some styles of packs can be dramatically better than the rest. The figures and ratings on the packs seems to have little bearing on how good they really will be.  I’ve had a lot of luck with 20c and 30c cells from varying manufacturers including nvision and turnigy. 
     

    I hate nimh battery’s, nothing will convince me to use nimh over lipo for my “personal use”. but I miss Sanyo nicads, they where the best. Sadly I can’t buy those anymore. 
     

    nimh is still the best option when gifting rc to children or the uninitiated. Lipo’s are just too fickle to proper care and so very easy to destroy if you don’t know what your doing.


  6. 38 minutes ago, BuggyGuy said:

    Yeah those look to be a similar design to the GF-01 and the fronts from the DF-03 (just different colour and coating?) - will need to be 90mm for CC02 (like buggy rear) to maintain ride height and travel I believe

    The cc01 dampers are identical to gf01 dampers bar the color. Like 100% identical. 
     

    the df03 front damper is too short and rear too long for cc01 so fingers crossed they come with something in between or a totally new damper. 


  7. Pity they didn’t make a mf02x for this release with the engine just behind the front wheels :rolleyes: (since in front no bodys would fit) oh well, TA03 one way diff up front then, get that heavy butt to come round.


  8. If your looking for a rally chassis the xv01 is the most realistic handling of any chassis on the market with its front engine layout it gives the most realistic slide characteristics both in looks and feel. Particularly when the body is ment to be rwd this comes further into play. 
     

    while the TT02 can be made off-road ready, for what it is, it can never be made to drive like the xv01 does. The XV01 pivots on its front axle, much like a real 1:1 front engine car does. The issue with cars like TT02 and TA02 is they are mid/rear engined and that weight bias leads to the whole car unrealistically drifting in a sort of mid centric manner, while that’s fun, it’s not as fun as the car drifting in a more realistic manner as it does on the xv01. 
     

    on the other hand rear weight bias chassis like TT02 and TA02 are easier to jump with less driver skills and input. So I guess it depends on what you want from the car.



  9. https://store.rc4wd.com/RC4WD-Dick-Cepek-Fun-Country-155-Scale-Tires_p_4052.html

    I’ve had a lot of success with these tyres, the combo of lug size and compound. Under a heavy truck it looks like you’ve got flat tyres but it gives a very big footprint that has huge grip on loose/slippery or wet surfaces, the truck is nearly unstoppable. They are about 10-15mm bigger than stock Tamiya tyres (so about 5-7.5mm more clearance) they fit under most Tamiya shells with very little trimming. 
     

    they are out of stock at rc4wd, but there is still sellers about with stock.  I think they may be discontinuing them. 

    The one thing you don’t want is huge big lugs in the tread, as that stiffens the whole carcass and prevents the tyre conforming to the terrain and ultimately equals less traction in almost every scenario. 
     

    another tyre they make that is similar and more modern but slightly shorter and narrower is this model. 
     

    https://store.rc4wd.com/RC4WD-Falken-Wildpeak-AT3W-155-Scale-Tires_p_7001.html

    Or for similar size and width

    https://store.rc4wd.com/Compass-MT-155-Scale-Tires_p_7757.html

    There is few if any 1.9” high quality crawler tyres under 100mm so generally they don’t work on tamiyas unless your happy with the monster truck look. 

    I have a lot of crawler tyres, I’ve tried many small crawler tyres that will fit under our cc01/2’s and I can’t find anything better than a 1.55” x2ss compound rc4wd models. Yes they are crazy expensive. But I’ve never worn a set out (or even 1% tread loss for that matter). 
     

    Recently I grabbed a set of the Austar 1.55” tyres and wheels off eBay, they are good looking and really nice for the money but the tyre compound is fairly hard and the carcass has been reinforced so it could be used as a 1/14 scale truck tyre carrying a heavy load. The reinforcing is such I’m considering them for my Dakar rally rig as they have the right proportions and will work at 40-50km/h (something a crawler tyre should not be able to do) the wheels are quite thin and very lightweight. Great for speed but bad for a crawler. They are however still a upgrade over stock Tamiya efforts. I think they’d be great on a trailer as the carcass will carry a decent amount of weight while still looking the part. 
     

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/1-55-Wheel-Rim-Tire-Tyre-for-1-10-RC-D90-TF2-CC01-LC70-MST-Axial-90069-JIMNY/133364330635?hash=item1f0d22308b:g:Ia4AAOSwAJhecbZs

    I also played with the mst soft compound 1.9” crawler tyre and they are good value, but are really just about oem Traxxas level, not high end but way way better than stock Tamiya. A good option for a basic budget upgrade on a stock plastic rim. 

    https://www.rcmart.com/mst-30x90mm-1-9inch-km-30degree-soft-crawler-rubber-tire-2-pcs-for-1-10-rc-crawler-831006-00082838
     

    I have some pit bull xtreme rock beast 1.55” on the way, be interesting to compare to the myriad of other brands I’ve tried. 
     

    as for your cc01 shocks, it’s hard to beat the genuine cc01 alloy damper. It has about 20-25% more stroke than the stock CVA mini. Springs wise the trf501x front spring kits are very soft, next firmest is the trf201 front spring kit. Both fit straight onto the CC01 alloy damper. The stock front springs are heavier than anything included in the trf201 set, but the stock cc01 rears are about the softest in the 201 set or firmest in the 501 set.  Of course there is also the cc01 barrel spring set. I have them but I don’t use them. 

    • Like 2

  10. Generally a ball diff works better in low traction situations, where a gear diff is more useful in high traction situations. 
     

    in many cases people run locked diffs on m03/5, this is why gear diffs with heavy oil are quite popular to those looking for the performance of a locked with somewhat less of a drawbacks. 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  11. 1 minute ago, Superluminal said:

    It looks like a trick of weird perspective. 

    I can assure you it’s not a visual trick, the front wheels ended up being offset 10mm in opposite directions, pretty shocking. Parts where completely unusable. 
     

    the modern yeah racing parts seem to be better, and for that matter the modern gpm parts are getting better too. But they still make all these inferior parts for older models. 
     

    its a shame 3racing and yeah racing discontinue parts shortly after they make them. 
     


     

     


  12. C7B898D2-E870-4FD6-AB4D-EAF24A641F41.jpeg.bb500ccbc50473db21602d52d55c00c2.jpeg

    I’ve never had much issue with their knuckles/uprights, but the above gives you a idea of gpm quality on some Tamiya parts. This is a rcdamper/gpm DT03 part, the hinge pins should be straight or leaning in opposite directions. I got 2, both similar fault but not identical. Its worth checking whatever Gpm parts you buy to see they are correctly made and won’t adversely effect your cars handling before putting them into use. 
     

     

    • Confused 1

  13. On 10/22/2020 at 7:55 PM, manny said:

    I'm not sure what this type of off road suspension is called but it's used in a lot of competition buggies (pic from Rc Car Action)   The C-hub is integrated into the steering knuckle giving the suspension arm more clearance.   This example is from an XV-01 rally car.    I'm thinking that something similar could be fitted to my CC01 although I don't have any experience with this type of suspension (maybe a future project)

    IMG_0022 (2)

    So you got me thinking cause I had not tried to convert the xv01 front end to a cc01. I went in my rc room, my heavily grinded CC01 front end gives me around 31mm of travel with a CC01 alloy damper. TheN I went to my xv01 long damper, It has gf01 alloy dampers fitted (identical to cc01 but blue) and I’ve cut the chassis to bits (no droop stops etc) and grinded suspension mounts and I’ve managed to squeeze 31mm of travel from the front of my xv01. 
     

    it’s worth mentioning they both have identical travel shocks on them, I may be able to get a tiny bit more out of the CC01 front end with a longer shock but I doubt more than another 4-5mm. 

    the xv01 front end I’m not certain, the driveshaft is nearly touching the hub already in downstroke and I think I’ve grinded that already.  I will need to investigate if there is much scope for more travel before even considering the intricacies of strapping it all onto the cc01. 
     

    I probably have all of the parts I’d need in spares so something to consider. 

    • Like 1

  14. The only way to get more travel from a CVA mini sized shock is switch to cc01 or gf01 alloy dampers, which have more overall travel (about 20-25% more).

    ultimatly though, you can’t get more travel and more articulation without increasing the tower height unless the shocks your using are not optimized in their length. (Gmade xd are very short on travel compared to their length, so if your using those then other shocks will improve things.)
     

     


  15. having roused me into doing more research, I was right about that part number being CVA short, but you where right about them being on the front of the Titan,  in fact it uses a CVA short (dt03 spec shaft) in its entirety but with internal spacers to make them short enough. 

    it’s the rear that is not a CVA specifically but the shocks off TXT-1/TGM-02/CR-01 They are like a CVA Long. 

     

    • Like 1

  16.  

    2 hours ago, ChrisRx718 said:

    I put some metal props on mine (mainly for the tart factor) 

    49981145876_3bcc70676c_b.jpg

     

     

    There is plenty of aftermarket options available thats pretty easy, I was pointing out that if you buy the CR01 Prop Shafts they won't fit on the 242mm wheelbase, even if you buy the shorter models.

    Ultimately though, money would be better spent on the best quality ultra soft tyres money can buy instead of metal propshafts, Tyres and wheels make more difference than any other modification you can fit on a crawler or trail rig. 

    • Thanks 1

  17. 6 hours ago, Wetman said:

    I'm tempted to have a dabble with the CC - 02 but the limited range of bodies are a bit of a put off. What else will fit?

    I'll admit I haven't read the full thread so if it's been mentioned my apologies

    I’m running the Land Rover on mine which is the shortest wheelbase CC01 body (242mm), I did need to trim the propshafts slightly but otherwise there was holes everywhere to make it happen. 
     

    the stock body is 267mm which is the longest cc01 wheelbase, and there is holes to do the middle cc01 size 252mm and the propshafts work without trimming.
     

    in other words, all CC01 bodys can fit the CC02. But, the body post holes don’t correspond to cc01 shells (not a big deal most CC01 bodys are not drilled) 

    I will add though, there is no CR01 prop shafts for the 242mm setting. Again no big deal, for trail running the plastic shafts are more than strong enough. 

    • Like 1

  18. 20c 5000 plenty on tble-02s. 

    the esc should overheat before you could damage the battery pack from over current. 
     

    just keep in mind it doesn’t cutoff until Under 3.0v per cell which is slightly on the low side for lipo. Just remember to stop driving as soon as the pack dumps or loses significant power. if you can’t do that get a lipo cutoff alarm. 
     

    Always recharge (or discharge) to 3.8-4.0v per cell within 12-24hrs of use for storage. Failing to store lipo’s with a storage level charge is the main reason Lipo packs die. Always check your packs voltage when your finished using them for the day and return to a storage voltage level. 
     

    storing lipos flat or fully charged for extended periods will kill the battery. 
     

     

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