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Juls1

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Posts posted by Juls1

  1. Posted

    We used to sell a lot of matched packs at the store I worked, each cell was broken in and a spec sticker put on each cell then they where manually put together at the manufacturer as a group but not assembled. You always had to assemble yourself. People used to go through those packs and try pick the best ones in stock. 
     

    we used to have cell equaliser dischargers as those packs where always made side by side you could discharge cells individually to make sure that when you charged they all charged evenly and one cell wasn’t messing up the charge. Typically those dischargers just had lightbulbs as the current draw, when the lights all went out you were good to go. 
     

     

    • Like 2

  3. Posted

    While I’m not unhappy with the release of the carbon reinforced chassis. And the road going version will make a great car park basher. 
     

    I’m very disappointed that it’s not a XV02B with a longer chassis, buggy arms and towers to suit. 
     

    a lot of potential for a club level 4wd racing buggy since the TD4 didn’t manage to fill those shoes. A longer chassis would mean they could bring the 53/47 weight balance back to 50/50, include the center diff as standard. 

  4. Posted

    10 hours ago, 87lc2 said:

    Would adding lead weights (wheel weights) to the front of a TT02 do anything towards recreating the driving dynamics of the XV-01?  Just curious, have boxes of them I use for tuning crawlers and monster trucks so worth a shot.  

    You could do that, but to gain a 10% weight shift you’re going to have to add 100-150g of weight over the nose, you’ll then need heavier front springs. It’s not ideal adding that much weight deliberately. But I guess it’s a low cost option. it may not work how you think though the front of a tt02’s geometry isn’t setup to suit the extra weight. 
     

    The weight balance on its own isn’t only what makes the xv01 drive like it does. It’s the whole package, extra castor, adjustable toe, anti squat, Anti dive, myriad of roll centre adjustments. Everything you need in an off road vehicle really. The XV’s do after all have scaled down DB buggy suspension. 

    • Like 6

  5. Posted

    2 hours ago, Juggular said:

    Oh man... 

    How many kits did I buy on @Juls1's advice? (At least DN-01 & XV-01. Usually from someone else's thread too.)  Now it looks like XV-02 is on my list.  Either I'm easily influenced, or you are very convincing!  My builds are backed up for the moment, so it won't be anytime soon, but I thank you!  

     

    Haha, don’t get too carried away. The XV02 is certainly a step up on the XV01, particularly in terms of being an off road rally race chassis. Capability is improved. But it is different to drive than the XV01, somehow the XV02 feels tamer, more settled and sorted. It isn’t necessarily more fun though. 
     

    I will say one thing though, I was surprised how quiet my Xv02 drivetrain is. 
     

    I think the thing is they’ve made a better handling, easier to drive package on more off road surfaces.  
    They’ve taken the idea of scale rally racing and turned up the off road ability significantly. 

    they did change that chassis balance though. In real life a Subaru WRX has a 59/41 split, a Mitsubishi evo 60/40.  XV01 60/40 XV02 53/47 TT02 50/50.  

    that front of car stuck down, realistic sliding, goes where you point it feeling of the XV01 isn’t lost on the XV02 but it is somewhat diminished even with the rear wheels overdriven. If you’re someone that really gets a buzz out of realistic scale driving I think the XV01 edges the XV02 out a bit. Once you experience that scale realism of driving dynamics with the XV01, everything else feels a bit stupid and fake really. If you’re not into that scale realism thing, the feeling of how it looks and feels cornering, then nothing wrong with a TT02. 

    • Like 5

  6. Posted

    6 minutes ago, 87lc2 said:

    Awesome @Juls1, thank you.   I agre with everything you said.  If we have fun with this I may get an XV-02 Pro Chassis Kit down the road, looks like a nice kit and the only one truly built for off-road running.  

    For now I kept it cheap and ordered 2 TT02s; The Audi Quattro and 98 Escort.  Also ordered 2 chassis covers, 2 sets of bearings, and 2 sets of the cheap rally tires.  Going to keep them stock and see what they'll  do.  As I said before, this is purely for fun and entertainment, in some cases the worse they drive the more fun we have :)   Might throw some shocks on them down the road, but an't see making any other modifications.  I have my race trucks for that, these Tamiyas are just for fun and I liek keeping them as original as possible (with the exception of bearings of course...).  

    Thanks again for all of the helpful suggestions guys.  Learned a ton which is why I'm always thankful this forum is here. 

     

    Good to hear, the cheap China rally tyres are better than tamiya ones anyway, they are softer, gripper and last longer. I don’t know why tamiya insists on making rally blocks from strange hard grip-less fast wearing rubber. 
     

    a set of CVA mini oil shocks is all I’d be adding to your list. If you go with 50519 you get soft off road springs included. 

  8. Posted

    I have run (and still have) pretty much all the chassis to some extent as rally chassis, including TA02, TL01, TL01LA, DF03RA, TT02, TT02S, MF01X, M05RA, XV01 and XV02. 
     

    if we forget about cost for a moment, and consider driving dynamics. Most of them are quite unrealistic in terms of how they drift/slide/turn in. In reality most of the cars have either a slight rear weight bias or a 50/50 weight bias. I don’t need to tell you that the feeling of realism isn’t great. But it’s like that to make them easier to drive. 
     

    when tamiya chose to build the XV01, they threw away the rule book and built a 60% front 40% rear weight bias chassis and in the process built the most satisfyingly realistic rally dirt sliding experience to date. The car pivots on its front wheels, and the rear actually slides out without taking the front wheels and everything else with it. The front of the car actually drives the car where it’s pointing. Something a 50/50 split chassis doesn’t seem to do. 

    the cons here though, was they hadn’t figured out what the car was really for though. Frustratingly putting droop stops in which have to be removed to maximise down travel/ground clearance, making it so half the chassis parts also needed trimming for the same reasons. There was some cool ideas here but they hadn’t fully given up on it being a road chassis.  While the heavy nose can cope with any realistically sized scale jump, when it comes to typical rc fun sized jumps it doesn’t really work. Not surprisingly the chassis kits that have buggy’s based off them handle the totally unrealistic sized jumps much better.

    when it comes down to it, TA02, TL01,TT01,TT02 and DF03RA all drive fairly similar albeit with the most modern variants having better handling at the expense of rough surface capability’s. None of them manage to give the “rally fizz” like the XV though. 
     

    the XV02 is kind of a interesting beast, it’s given up being a road car almost completely, gone are the droop stops, included from day one, the longest possible travel shocks that the suspension can manage without everything falling apart. Gone is the 60/40 split and we get a 53/47 split in its place. We gain the ability to overdrive the front or rear diff depending if you want front or rear drive bias. A center differential is a game changer especially if you want to run on a slippery dry clay race track. But as with the XV01 the XV02 is built as a race kit with all the adjustments you need to go from high grip to no grip setup. That comes along with the complexity’s required to achieve that which people find frustrating when they are not interested in car setup options. A small issue with the chassis is the steering bell cranks, yeah racing makes a part that solves that.

    The TT02 is a path many tamiya nutters like because it’s the path of tinkering and supposed minimal cost. In reality it’s a deep pocketed modification bonanza, but that’s fine it’s the journey travelled and personalisation that comes with it, that people find so enticing and satisfying. The ability to incrementally improve things as your budget allows makes a lot of sense if you don’t have the funds up front. 

    if your interested in rally and like chassis tuning but also like things to just be done up front and finally if you have a spare chunk of money and your interested in saving money in the long run  then the XV02 really is the best option. 
     

    The XV01? Great chassis love it… but the XV02 is so much more of an off road chassis from the ground up. 

    • Like 7
    • Thanks 2

  10. Posted

    The stock cva is a great shock and works well in most situations. 
     

    the df03 set will have improved sealing around the damper piston, which gives more consistent damping and most importantly will pack down on hard hits to prevent heavy bottom out. 
     

    mainly only going to be useful where you need the shock to have a very consistent and wide damping range.
     

    For most people this isn’t necessary. If you are running about having fun the plastic jobs are pretty good, can be greatly improved by just updating the seals and then adding TRF hard nylon pistons. That gets you 90% of the way to the alloy set performance. 

    Juls 

    • Like 3

  11. Posted

    On 5/6/2023 at 8:12 PM, matisse said:

    So another potential project arrived that is fitted with YR Big Bore Dampers.

    I think they might suit this build better.

    IMG_0718.md.jpg
     

    IMG_0719.md.jpg

    Always found those yeah racing big bores don’t work on an angle, a lot of friction/binding. They are fine if you use them vertically like on a crawler. 
     

    doesn’t seem to be enough shaft support, relies too heavily on the piston grinding it’s way up and down the shock body. 

    • Thanks 1

  12. Posted

    2 hours ago, BuggyGuy said:

    TD2 wouldnt hold you back at club level unless your driving standard is particularly high. 

    It needs a few hopups to be really race worthy though (clutch, diff nut).

    Finding a motor that will fit is probably the biggest hurdle!

    I run a hobbywing xerun v10 17.5T in stock class on my TD2. The chassis is actually very fast with this motor, I tend to catch up to most other cars on the straights. And I’m over clearing the biggest jumps by a large margin. So far it’s entirely me holding the car back. I’m generally sitting middle of the pack. 
     

    the track I race at is dry dusty hardpack clay and is quite rough. I’m running all my roll centres low as possible to give more body roll and grip in these slippery conditions.  I will say though it is a touch tail heavy and you have to run the lowest wing setting, the option wing mount on the carbon tower is useless. And you need to pay attention on the big jumps to get the nose down. Got plenty of steering though.

    may not be the best car for high grip indoor carpet. (which is just on road with jumps really). 

    • Like 2

  15. Posted

    1 hour ago, moffman said:

    Tamiya need to get back into the game properly and be competitive or at least be part of the competition!  I was at my local indoor club as a spectator a few weeks back and 95% of the people racing had Schumacher buggies with a couple of team associated and the classic class was again 99% Schumacher with one top force holding it’s own with a very respectable performance! As I was talking to the organiser and he said that tamiya’s creations at the moment just don’t compare to the likes of Schumacher cougars and cats and the evidence is no td2’s and td4’s at the club and they have both had equal purchase opportunities because all the buggies at the club were purchased at the LHS where all manufacturers are sold! And tamiya can do it because we’ve seen loads of competition beating buggies from them right from the hotshot to the dyna storm!

    I race a td2, the issue with the td2 is basically the price of making it track ready. Cheaper to buy a associated or Schumacher ready to go.

    • Like 2

  16. Posted

    23 hours ago, JustGooners said:

    Yes! I need one! 

    I now have two DB02 chassis and only one intact body. I have tried a TRF502 and a Durga body but they are just two narrow. I can probably take a photo for comparison. They may work, but you may need to cut quite a bit off for the motor area.

    Please keep us posted!!

    I am going to send it but they are not doing any new moulds till late this year. 
     

    neo scorcher body “kinda” fits. Better than db01 bodies anyway. The motor bulge is still an issue though. 

  17. Posted

    On 4/22/2023 at 12:17 AM, ChrisRx718 said:

    Into the first of the boxes:

    PXL_20230421_155258710.thumb.jpg.a36eab990d901a0678060a8cc4d5718c.jpg

    So I barely remember ordering these, but here we are. I was so frustrated with my Buggy Aeration Dampers I decided to throw £35 at these TT-02B / DF-03 items. At first glance they look almost the same as 53926 DF-03 Aluminium Oil Damper Set, with the exception being the top cap - smooth on the older part number, ribbed (for her pleasure) on these ones :lol:

    Where's our in-house damper expert @Juls1? He would know of any other differences I'm sure.

     

    I’ve got both shock sets, I have not as yet done a measured comparison. 
     

    but I believe the change was made to use caps and fittings from the on road dampers. The original units used one off caps on them. 
     

    I don’t think the new ones have the same slippery coating, at least not on the outside. The new ones are still very good, I don’t think you’ll be upset with them. 

    • Thanks 1

  18. Posted

    The gearing you need depends on the exact motor you have. And more specifically what timing settings. 
     

    im going to assume you have a hobbywing Quicrun 3650 10.5T which has fixed timing and your not using any timing advance or boost in the esc. 
     

    if that is the case based on the hobbywing manual  you’ll want a ratio between 6.5 and 7.5/1 the stock 19t pinion is 9.58/1 you need to jump up to a 24-28t pinion to get the best from your combo. 
     

    if your not running that motor and or are using a lot of timing advance then these recommendations may not be right. 
     

  19. Posted

    6 minutes ago, ChrisRx718 said:

    I don't know how interested you are, but I just contacted a UK company about reproduction Desert Gator bodies expecting a negative response....

    But they've managed to source one and will be working on it soon. I can't wait, I've managed to obtain some genuine stickers which I'll get scanned over to MCI too for reproduction. Watch this space...

    Well that’s good news, team bluegroove did look for a Leonis body but couldn’t find one. They have gotten back to me and I’m going to ship my NIP body to them. 
     

    The bad news is they said it won’t go into production till 2024.

    • Thanks 4

  20. Posted

    40 minutes ago, frameskip said:

    Please do!!

    I would be in for a couple. DB02 bodies are impossible to find and I’ve yet to discover another body that fits the chassis.

    This is why I’m trying to do it but since I told team blue groove I’m in Australia they stopped responding. Anyway I’ll keep trying. 
     

    a Neo scorcher body can be bodgied on (very bodgy) but it’s holes are precut wrong, and the chassis is still a touch wide at the motor. But it’s good enough you can run the chassis. But it’s got terrible aero if you want to race. The kit body is the only decent option.  

    • Thanks 1

  23. Posted

    Depends really if you want some mechanical  traction control and a bit more transmission protection. There is a regular slipper and a dual slipper available, the dual slipper gives separate front/rear slipper clutches.

     If you’re trying to race, it’s a good tuning aid. 

  24. Posted

    On 3/30/2023 at 5:21 AM, Kpowell911 said:

    Thats very nice, but Id only want to use Tamiya parts and theres not really a lot they make for the TL-01

    Really the only fancy bits is the clear/transparent chassis (or the lightweight chassis, but it’s boring) and the genuine TL01LA conversion kits. Obviously tamiya dampers, lightweight driveshaft, speed tuned gears and lightweight shafts, TA03 ball diffs, quick release battery holder, m03 alloy servo horn for high torque servo saver. There is actually quite a lot of nice parts for TL01, many are from or shared with other chassis like M03. Don’t forget many modern g601/gf01/wr02 parts among others also may fit even though they didn’t exist when tl01 was around, but are still genuine tamiya hopup parts that just bolt up.

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