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Juls1

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Posts posted by Juls1

  2. Posted

    For my trail rigs they are driven from the vehicle park, buggy’s etc normally just carried by their bumpers or suspension arms. 
     

    I usually have a backpack for battery’s and tools etc. 

    otherwise if I’m carting a lot of crap then it all goes in plastic tubs. But really the method depends entirely on the situation. 

    • Like 1

  3. Posted

    I’ve got lots of those yeah racing mounts, you can check your mesh by popping the top gearbox cover off. However I found on the lower pinions 15/17/18 it’s basically impossible to put it in the wrong way, it doesn’t fit. The tamiya upgrade part has no markings and is just round. So not really any different. Either way some small experimentation and checking the mesh from the top of the gearbox will solve all those issues. 
     

    the alloy tamiya pinions wear out, that’s entirely and completely normal. There is a number of aftermarket steel 0.6 mod pinions available that will eliminate the wear issue. The original DF01 and TA01 had aluminium counter gears made of the same stuff, used to chew the whole gearbox up in no time. When the TA02 came along they made the whole tranny plastic eliminating the problem. 

    • Like 1

  4. Posted

    1 hour ago, BuggyDad said:

    Type S front arms:

    20230206_175625

    Just to show how droop is limited by the C hub contacting the arm. You would need to remove material on one (or both) of them to increase downward travel/ground clearance for rally. And because the point of contact is further from the pivot, more material needs to come off than it would if right up close. Would be easy enough to do but would affect strength.

    Rear arms might not need any work at all. 

    These particular C hubs tend to be flexy as, which is fine from a strength point of view but in high traction situations is one time when an alloy part is actually the best option. The carbon reinforced part is still flimsy and flexy. 

  6. Posted

    As a video content creator back in the days before YouTube existed, I can say that pushing things to the limit for the video is a real thing, not necessarily trying to break it but pushing the limits for the camera. Of course cars back then were brushed and nicad powered, but tamiya TA02’s and HPI EMT’s couldn’t do 10 metre jumps without high possibility of failure.  Assuming you could get them going fast enough to achieve it. 
     

    i think it’s no different now that content creators feel like it’s necessary to push the limits if it deliberately destroy cars for the sake of views. If you try to make a living making YouTube videos you’ll ultimately be sucked into doing whatever pays best. But just as people like to watch the silliness I don’t think most want to deliberately break their rc cars. If they did, why would they buy stronger upgrade parts? 
     

    in any case, tomley is quietly achieving without too much carnage, Kev is breaking everything he touches and doing as well as ever, Glenn and Gavin are making slow progress I’m hoping for an uptick for them both very soon because I know the current subscriber counts are probably not sustainable. 
     

    I don’t know if anyone else has gone trail driving with a good friend and two CC01’s? The issue is the first hour is scale and careful, the second hour is increasingly destructive and the giggles nearly kill you. Good friends and too longer run times are a bad idea. Or are they? 

    • Like 2

  8. Posted

    It looks like a bottomless pit for hopups… :rolleyes:

    on the other hand, thank god we can stop getting rwd cars released on m05… 

    a 4wd conversion kit would certainly open it up to mini size rally driving and the like. The rear motor mf01x just doesn’t handle right for most rally cars. 

    • Like 2

  10. Posted

    2 hours ago, BuggyGuy said:

    The rear bodies look very similar to the hopup set for the CC02 - but completely agree the caps with bleed screws are a nice touch, fingers crossed I can put some of those caps on the DF03 dampers I've got on the TD2

    The shocks are aeration type, means the air and oil is mixed. So yes it bleeds excess oil, but the shocks have to have air in them or they don’t work. The DF03 is airless type with a bladder separating the air and oil. 
     

    if you want a set of aeration (emulsion) shocks for your TD2 then that’s what the big bore race dampers are.  

  11. Posted

    5 hours ago, futureworks said:

    I’ve been looking for the restoration build thread you mentioned in this post from 2017 @Juls1, I’m looking for some info on rear stabilisers for the FF01, and struggling to find much on the web about the aftermarket options which were made by the likes of Rainbow and Tech Racing. Can you help?

    Oh, and I found this for sale, but slightly different part number (TFF-21 vs. your TFF-2) so wondered if you knew what the difference is?

    F777A501-F000-4797-A87C-DB453E9A8127.jpeg

    If you’re searching make sure you have the time filter set on All time. 
     

    The thing to understand about these tech racing “stabilisers” is they are not sway bars. 
     

    they just help the caster and camber stay the same throughout the suspension travel because the arms and other parts flex like rubber during suspension movement. 

    • Like 1

  12. Posted

    In Australia im not really seeing significant inflation in tamiya, that being said typically there is 0 parts, but kits can be readily available, typically stores here are made to pre order a significant amount of stock at a time (potentially a 20ft container worth) which I believe keeps prices within the realms of reasonability. It’s typically not significantly cheaper to buy from HK, US or UK these days for kits when you consider freight.
     

    If you’re looking at online prices and comparing them directly without factoring freight then you’re just ripping yourself off, more often than not the actual freight cost blows the total past local prices.  Don’t forget the store had to pay freight to them, you can’t get away from that. And there is likely local tax to pay as well. 

    I have seen huge inflation in Traxxas/Arrma etc though. 
     

     

    • Like 2

  13. Posted

    Same thing has been happening in the agriculture industry, and motoring industry. 

    It’s a problematic trend that’s sweeping across the internet, going to make it harder for new businesses to get going on a online store because we will all have so much less trust in web stores in the future. It’s like not answering the phone to unknown numbers anymore because half or more of the time it’s a scam. But these same scams on the websites are scattered through eBay and other online trading platforms too. 
     

    if it seems too good to be true. Then chances are, it’s not real. 

  16. Posted

    The way I look at it. 
     

    So you had the original car, then over a period of years you slowly but surely replaced and upgraded all but a few parts and each part got used in a separate combination of upgrades. Then it’s still the original car.  Each part more or less has its own history within the car with an amalgamation if the other parts. Thus each new part placed next to an older upgrade part, has learnt the past from the other parts. Therefore it has the knowledge of the family of parts and is classified as part of the family. 
     

    if it was original, then one day you decided to rebuild it and then all at once replaced all but a couple of parts (maybe because you couldn’t find new ones) then no that’s not really the same car, it’s a pile of new parts with a couple of bits of your old car on it. 
     

    I’ve been down that road with the FF01. Started out as a sympathetic restore. Turned into a new car and the old car sitting there still not restored… lol :rolleyes:
     

    at the end of the day it’s your car, and it’s your journey with it that matters the most. That’s what decides if it’s your original car. The sum of parts are the journey. 

    • Like 2

  17. Posted

    On 12/1/2022 at 10:18 PM, BuggyDad said:

    Following my question from yesterday, is this Tamiya's definitive XV-02 option parts list? 

    https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/catalogs/XV-02_parts_catalog.pdf

    If it is, I think it is clear that 54379 is an option for the single piece non-adjustable suspension mount, but I don't see any confirmation that the separate non-adjustable ones 54376 & 54377 fit (and their fitment looks quite different to 54884, which takes 2 screws and looks shorter).

    Would be very grateful for anyone's insight on this.

    (sorry for slight thread hijack! Should I be asking somewhere else?)

    I have the yeah racing steering parts here (update coming soon) The upper steering arm is fairly nice, with the exception of strength the yeah racing parts don’t solve the other issues. The solid steering link the bearings are still floppy and the arm can slide up and down the bearing so they need glueing in just as the tamiya parts. There is no new design here just copied the stock parts. 

    as for the arm mounts the solid mount in that old xv02 parts list (that list came out before the xv02 was released that’s why it’s missing all the specific parts like carbon towers etc) will be fine, I don’t believe the separate solid mounts are compatible. I’ll have a closer look next time I’m in the rc room. 

  18. Posted

    22 hours ago, toyolien said:

    Thanks for confirming that. That's the part number I came to. However, it is more than half the price of a complete diff, and it seems that the XV-02 oil diffs come with those included, whereas the kit didn't. So I've just ordered a couple of spare diffs. I'm now trying to get my head around having the pill inserts at both ends of each suspension arm. It's straining my mind a bit...

    I agree, the price for the pins is silly. is a little frustrating they don’t just include them from the factory. You wonder if it’s a way to increase profit or is it really just trying to fit into a retail price by skimming costs where they will be less noticed. 

    • Like 1

  20. Posted

    I had the stadium truck version of this as a teenager, I have to say it was the most disappointing soul destroying rc I’ve ever owned. Chassis’s used to crack near the motor mount, over and over and over again. The gearbox wore out rapidly. The shocks where hopeless and everything was smaller, weaker and less reliable than all the Tamiyas I’d owned so far and since. The money wasted on this thing, the little I had as a teenager pretty much put me off kyosho for years.
     

    the nitro version was quite popular and the engine mount seemed to keep the same chassis as the electric had together. But the nitro engine was junk, you’d need a new piston and sleeve on a regular basis. 
     

    Good luck trying to recover this thing, looks like someone’s put a fair bit of effort into trying to make it half decent. Be interested if you can find any new old stock parts. 

    • Like 1

  21. Posted

    2 hours ago, Misterp180 said:

    New Tamiya video dropped this morning.

    TT02BR can be see around 1:02:30. Does look good and you get some decals!

    However, the carry case is just the box 😂

    Anyone who can understand Japanese explain the TL01’s at the end. I assume they are just saying the TT02 is the modern equivalent. 

  22. Posted

    I’ve not had a chance to play with mine yet, but the big bores would in theory have more available travel than CVA Mini. Assuming that they don’t get internally spaced to reduce that stroke. Check my buggy damper thread if your interested in how much more stroke is available. 
     

    keep in mind the df03 damper kit has the same stroke as the big bores (but still way more than stock) I’d only go to the big bore if you have plenty of disposable money and or need that extra 5% performance over the df03 damper. 
     

    changing the leverage by shaving a mm or two off the shock side of the rocker and adding a mm or two to the arm side should increase the overall travel but it will likely effect the leverage ratio making things softer and possibly more linear and or a falling rate.

    It may also cause the shock to rub against other chassis parts. 

    • Like 1

  23. Posted

    11 hours ago, tamiya3speed said:

    The 54508 Rear Big Bore Damper springs have been out of stock everywhere I have looked since like June or July.  They aren't showing discontinued anywhere but anyone have any idea how long they typically disappear for?  I have Big Bores for my TD4 but no rear springs.

    I don’t think they are discontinued, but I’ve noticed tamiya changing some things like the bore bore shocks don’t come with a ally lower ball anymore and they don’t come with x rings either. 
     

    I assume it’s an effort to reign in price inflation,

    it may be they just need to do another run or they are finding a cheaper way to make the springs. I don’t know. But they are still releasing kits that list them as upgrade parts so I’m sure they’ll be back in stock eventually. 
     

    I’ve noticed particularly Japanese sellers getting ahold of out of stock items and inflating the price on eBay etc significantly. Of course as soon as you pay that rip off price then they’ll come back into stock for sure.  

  25. Posted

    I’m quite happy to see this, but im disappointed they didn’t give it the typical MS/TRF flame decal sheet. 
     

    I would have liked to have seen the full alloy steering but understand this may have bumped it over their intended RRP. 
     

    the TT02B is actually a very good handler with the carbon towers and DF03 dampers (which fixes the ride height issues of the stock kit) 

    all they need do now is release the steering knuckles/C hub in reinforced carbon and it’ll be a nice little package. 

    They could have taken it to the next level however by making a new chassis compatible with the xv02 center diff and slipper clutch. 

    • Like 3
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