BBenny

I'm not proud of this 'repair' to the chassis but it should do for now. Sorry about the dirt, not really got enough time to clean the thing! On the car's right side I used a side plate of a bicycle chain, bent slightly. Bolt through the front of the chassis. Drilled though the stay and put a self tapper in from the front. The plastic nut is to cover the sharp edge. On the left I drilled through the chassis and into the gearbox casing. I checked it clears the bevel gear first! It has already cracked the chassis around the hole (it's about 30y old) so I don't hold out much hope. After this, the front end feels solid enough. It's going to be temporary, at next failure I'll get a new chassis.

Started a new thread as I didn't want to crash your dragon build thread. Glad to have an expert on hand. She was my pride and joy as a teenager c. 1991. Currently running a silver can with a lipo and a 1040 ESC. The suspension arms were warped after storage, but boiling them corrected it very well.

She's had a hard life, but still going. To do list... try and repair front tabs on chassis Replace o rings on all dampers Install better swing arm pins Replace worn front axles Reinstate original tyres Repair or replace body Terra scorcher damper mounts front and rear. I'm looking into universal drives. Are the Tamiya df03 ones really worth £40? I also found these which I think might fit.

At least new chassis seem to be available. I'm going to try something with steel plates. Had an idea about using the sides of a bicycle chain, will let you know how I get on. Thanks

Thanks for the link Cy. After a bit of searching here, I came across the idea of inserting the threaded hinge pins in the reverse direction. Seems a reasonable idea and puts less stress on A5. A dab of cyano on the threads and I'll see how we get on. I'll order in the shafts anyway I think. New problem uncovered is the fractured top holes on the chassis where the front box mounts. Seems a very weak area that gets a fair load of stress. This is a vintage chassis. Any good ideas how to repair that area?

Watching with interest. Need to sort out my vintage runner with hinge pins that don't back out every 2 minutes. Also prefer 2 front shocks and thinking of trying to get the terra scorcher mount for better geometry. My shocks need new seals. So much to do but so little time.

Late 1980s I think. Looks like it's in working order output 9v on my meter, but don't have any NiCd battery to confirm. Free to collect from Bristol.

Brand new, removed from kit. Incudes manual. £15 posted Pay Pal gift

Big thanks to Futura for posting me this part gratis. What a nice person.

Bristol. BS6

Thanks, might do. But I have 380 motors in my box and I like to recycle!

Still hoping this part might turn up...

Hello, I'd like to get hold of the 380 motor mount for the DT02 Holiday Buggy. Part number H3. I want to fit a 380 in my DT03 for small children to use. Maybe someone fitted a 540 and didn't use the 380 mount? Thank for looking in your spares. Ben

Cheers guys! I went and bought the A parts sprue. I found springs and damper rods in the spares box so nearly there. It can drive now but I would like to get hold of the C11 washers that support the springs under the uprights. My experience running 1990s Tamiya mini oil shocks in the GH2 resulted in broken uprights on the chassis. They might have been sticky or over -sprung/damped though. I wonder if the DT03 oil shocks might be better.

Hi Doc, Thanks for the offer. I've realised the GH 1 set up is quite different to the gh2. I'll probably try and get the a and c parts online. Cheers Ben