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About colda

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  1. pretty certain that it's one transmitter to many receivers, the bind process links the receiver to the unique identifier in the transmitter work around could be (as the flysky receivers are so cheap) to put an additional receiver in car, although the switching required would probably result in it being easier just swap out the receiver to one bound to the other controller, although considering that the bind process itself is so quick and easy you would just bind to whichever transmitter you wanted to use at the time (all calibrations and settings are stored in the transmitter anyway so nothing lost) does the gt3b have memory for multiple cars like the c has?
  2. as long as they are 3.2mm bore you'll be fine, like these: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/rw-pinion-gears/rc-car-manufacturers/48/9920/992050&MSAttributeID[41]=647
  3. mod6 pinions are pretty easy to find, if you get one of these: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-tt-02-high-speed-gear-set-68t/rc-car-products/379582 then you have more options with the spur, I have a 29t pinion and 64t spur in my TT02 at present
  4. I recently built a CC-01 (still not complete), certainly recommend the steering upgrade (I went with the GPM one - don't forget to use threadlock!), I'd also recommend a reasonable servo such as a Savox 1256 (about £30 used) although there are some good inexpensive ones available on HobbyKing (Turnigy brand, make sure you go for some with metal gears and a good torque rating) As mentioned, transmitters are 'plasticy', was surprised how much when I got my Sanwa MX-V, now using an old Sanwa M11X and although much more substantial, I can't help but think that these companies can learn a thing or two from organisations such as camera manufacturers So, your next build, an XV-01 or MF-01X could potentially compliment the CC-01
  5. The Tamiya Thread Forming Tap (#54232) is one of the best purchases I made, I did ponder for far too long before actually getting one but now I use it at every opportunity (along with a decent ratchet tap thing), the problem with both drilling and using regular taps is that these remove material, just going for it with a regular screw puts stresses that I'd rather avoid. I've had no parts fail around the fixing since using it, the tap does exactly as described, it forms a thread (rather than cutting it) Can't recommend it highly enough, no M3 screw goes in a hole without it, also excellent for reforming holes where self-tappers have been such that they can be replaced hex head M3's
  6. Quickly checked this morning and the 3x22mm pins seem to be a good size (might need a couple of shims) although they are a bit tight on my gpm parts but that's an easy fix. I think I'll be getting another pack and some of the TL01 jobbies to put in the box of the yet to be built DT03
  7. I'm no fan of the usual tamiya screw pins and would rather be using shafts and e-clips, for my TT02 I've just ordered some 3x22mm shafts (part #54395) for the rear suspension in the hope that they will fit as searching for something standard proved to be a bit of a challenge. Thinking about my other projects, does anyone know of a simple way to find standard products or should I be thinking about manufacturing my own (I have a small lathe)?
  8. yep, first time out I murdered a DT02 (and a DT03 I'd bought along as a spare), then bought a Schumacher KF2 from someone at the club
  9. As far as I know the 10BL120 is blinky (I have a couple of the 10BL60's - there are no boost or turbo options) so you'll be fine with that, I'm guessing there will be the option of 13.5 or 17.5 blinky so as long as you have one of those you'll be fine For the transponder, the MRT mPTX seems to be a good standard that works everywhere although it may be you can borrow/hire one from the club, as long as you're lipo is hard cased you should be fine From my limited experience, club nights are pretty flexible, the BRCA rules come more into play with specific events, and everyone is very friendly and encouraging I only started racing as I just didn't get out and use my cars but I love it and never looked back
  10. c'mon fella, how can you ignore the M07R? - I have the M03 and M05 v2 R but that's for the 210mm wheelbase and mini bodies, I have no idea what 225mm body I'll put on the M07R but I've a HPI BMW 2002 which is still unwrapped and now destined for the M08
  11. still working on how to get the upcoming purchase of the M07R past the wife, the M06 (Alpine) has been on the wishlist for far too long so need to get that before they become unavailable, and of course with the M08 I'll need an M01 and M02 to complete the collection so on the back of this announcement, rather than getting one more into the fold, I'm now looking at five!
  12. It might matter a bit, going on the basis that smoke came out of one of my motors when I got the wires wrong
  13. I'm nearly finished with a TA03 dual motor project (based on a TA03F), not sure what I'm going to be doing with in going forward but thoughts of making my own carbon chassis grow almost daily, I realise this isn't much help to you in the short term but if I do end up going ahead, I'll keep you in mind
  14. images, don't think too much about the body, it's not great and just included as I thought it might help with the ebay sale
  15. Got one that was about to go on eBay if you’re interested, will add photos this evening
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