CARRERA

Thanks for the info and replies, appreciated. Never seen the Junfac parts, but as you say may need drilling, etc. Ref the Topcad's, I used these once on a F350 High Lift and the spacers were great. I'm wanting to fit RC4WD 'steeley's'. I have put the original hex's back on but now when i tighten the nut on the wheels go tight and don't want to turn? Strange. Need to investigate.... Even with the original hex's, it doesn't give the track i want.

Hi all, I have a CC01 Jeep that I want to use the 12mm hexs on to get a wider track width. The wheels i'm using don't allow for the wheel nut to go on as the thread on the axle isn't long enough. Does anyone know what drive shafs/cups have a longer shaft to allow me to do this? Many Thanks.

Looking for a pair of white door mirrors for a Mitsubishi EVO IV. Must be in nice condition, nothing tatty. Let me know if you have anything to suit. Many Thanks.

Looking for a right side gearbox half for a MK IV Rough Rider. Must be good - very good. No danage please! If you have anything to suit let me know. Many Thanks.

This may sound a bit thick!, but which way and how far back id the loop set back? Many Thanks.

Hi, If anyone has a spare rear CR01 Jeep rear bumper they wish to sell then please PM me! Many Thanks.

Hi, Please see link to my showroom: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp...457&id=3371 Any questions/offers please e-mail or PM. Many Thanks.

Not sure mate? I'll give it a go, thanks.

Preferred used, anything considered as long as it is complete and not battered! Many Thnaks.

I have to agree alao, I ran Sand roevers, Scorchers, etc in the day on Acoms I @ II and never had any problems. It was amazing how far your car would travel into the distance on a desreted beach and you still had control. You just had to make sure the four AA batteries never ran out!!! Futaba seemed to be regarded as the better radio however, Acoms and Tamiya will always go 'hand in hand' to me because that's how Beatties sold 'em!

Thanks for the replies. I agree that purchasing plastic wheels is easier than messing around removing the tyres. I was probably thinking more along the lines when mounting on alloy rims. I'll bear rhe above in mind though, thanks.

Hi all, Looking for a set of G parts for the CC01 to lock the diffs. If you have anything let me know! Many thanks.

Hi all, This has probably been already asked hoever, what do you find id best at bonding tyres to rims that can easily be undone to fit new tyres at a later date? Think i read somwhere silicon is good? any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, Andy

Hi, That's great! However, I live in the UK so the cost of postage could make them expensive?? If you could obtain the postage i would be VERY grateful. Thank you sir. Andy

These are the longer hex's used to extend the track, around 12mm i think. Anything would be considered plastic or alloy. Many thanks.

I have just noticed that one of my CC01 chassis cars has >PA> on the underside of the rear suspension links and also on the top of the part that the ESC sits on. My other XC chassis' don't have this. Any ideas why this is? Is is just a later manufacture, different country of manufacture? Just curious that's all! Thanks, Andy

Cracking idea. I too have visited a few Scalextric swop/sale meets in previous year and they seemed a great success. I'm Nottinghamshire way but would travel, within reasonable distance.

It's not very often i posta quesstion but i have another one re Sand Scorcherrear suspension.. I have just purchased a 2010 Scorcher. When i compress the rear suspension, it stays compressed. Lift the chassis and it lifts up and stays there ok. When you operate the suspension with wheels off theground, it moves fine up and down. Any ideas why it stays 'squat' on the rear when you push it down? Is it the tyres gripping the ground surface or merely a 2010 Scorcher characterisstic? I have owned many original SRb chassis inthe past and these weemed to have too hard a rear suspaension, the rear end sprung up straight away. Any infowoudbe great. Many thanks.

May I say a BIG THANK YOU for your help guys, really appreciated. There's a lot to take in and it isn't as easy or sraight forward as i thought. At least there is a solution and i have a good start point, thnaks to your help. Many Thanks. Andy

Hi all, Just purchased two TB01 Subaru's. I was surprised to see how far the wheels fit inside the arches compared to my T01. I have read the forums for mods members have done to their TB01's but have just one question.... Do the option universal joints increase the track width or is it best to get the TG10 long shafts and TT01 extra lenght wheel adapters? I would like to get the optional long arm set but they are quite scarce so looking for the next best option. Any advice would be appreciated. Many thanks, Andy

Couldn't have put it better myself! Don't tend to see that many Mounties around these days. Good luck with the sale!

This is a FAV that I bought many years ago with the intention of restoring. I have been busy with CC01 builds and as such this has been sat in a box doing nothing It came to me with no bonnet, rear lights, battery cover and drivers left arm. I managed to source these over the years at great expense as the re-re had not been released! Anyway, the new bonnet i sourced has a split on the left hanf side but i guess this will repair ok. The front bar on the chassis underneath the rught headlamp has split but again this does not show once glued as it is hidden by the light. The only other doownside is that the nearside front tyre has gone 'flat' so ideally a new front pair of tyres is required. There are no re-re parts on this FAV, all colour plastic is the same. Gearbox turns nice. Hard to put a price on now the re-re is out but once restored this woukld be great. Thinking of £120.00 + postage, or i will do a meet, within distance, to save postage. Any questions please ask! Thanks, Andy PS, may swop for a good CC01 vehicle. Please see my showroom: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/trades_model.asp?cid=104023

Hi all, Does anyone have any dampers for the CC01 / XC chassis? I also require the rear torsion arms that attach to the rear axle and body. Any offers would be appreciated. Many Thanks, Andy

You may be right! I have just removed the body and it has long prongs on the inside where i guess it was attached to a 'toy' body originally. You still have to unscrew the rear window. I guess once painted up correctly, ity makes for a good looking body for a scaler. I have a spare LR3 Discovery body so may decide to sell this Mu now. The info you obtain on this site really amazes me at times!! Thanks again.

Yeh, it's not my favourite XC if i'm honest however, you don't see that many around. Not that many here on TC either? The chrome is really nice but the windows have been sprayed black! Will need to find something to strip them if i can? Reference the lights, they have chrome plastic 'pretend' lenses? Can you get the glass looking lights, similar to those in the Pajero and Jeep? Thanks for your advice by the way! Andy