junglemonkey

Well having swapped out the small screws on the ‘P’ plate the issue seems to have resolved itself. They were obviously causing the back axels to have slightly too much travel as it wasn’t tight enough causing it to pop out, being a newbie to all of this some of the advice is a little over my head to be honest but thanks for getting back to me. Eg what is shimming?

Brilliant thanks FJumper, I did notice that the screws in the P plate weren’t binding anymore and were just going round, so I’ve replaced them with longer screws which now bite so perhaps along with adjusting the shock length this may fix my issue. If not I will try the Tamiya 9808038 (pair of dogbones) and Tamiya 9808039 (pair of rear axles) and keep my fingers crossed. Just need to find somewhere which has them in stock and doesn’t cost the earth for delivery for small parts, and doesn’t take an age to get here cause of covid-19!

Hi guys, Took my Monster Beetle out for only its 2nd run today but had to cut my fun short due to the universal shaft popping out of the gearbox joint (short end). Put it back in and checked it but happened again when I ran the car. Opened up the gearbox to check all was ok i there, which it was and put it all back together again. Only managed a slow test run indoors as it was too late to try outside but seemed ok. Back wheels did seem a bit shaky tho when I ran it while holding them off the floor and I’m half expecting it to pop out again tomorrow when I try a proper test drive. Is there anything I’ve possibly done wrong or anything I can do to stop the shaft from popping out in the future? I’m pretty new to RC so please don’t bamboozle me with technical speak! Thanks

Is there an alternative part to the fiddly white door pin that comes with the Monster beetle? I've seen one from CRP online but its not available anywhere. Wondered if there was an alternative that is available as the stock park is difficult to get on and off.

Rubber bands worked a treat, thanks for the advice 😀

Any tips on applying the silicone sealant to the tyre, or is it just a case of sealant gun around the wheel and push the tyre back on?

Do you place the silicon all the way around the tyre or just in tiny areas? Like the sound of being able to remove it if required rather than have them welded together with glue.

So I finally got round to installing the sports tuned motor in my lunchbox which works fine but now with the extra power I have has made the tyres start spinning, so should I glue them in place? If so any specific glue for this, how much to use etc. I’ve read that the small holes in the wheels are for putting the glue in, is this correct. Any help or tips appreciated on this, thanks.

Anyone else who has a lunchbox got any suggestions for me? Needs to be a backpack rather than a hauler bag

Ok thanks, will check it out, there doesn’t seem to be many choices around!

Hi, anyone know of a backpack that will fit a Lunchbox in. I’ve seen this, https://www.modelsport.co.uk/j-concepts-sct-backpack-medium-fits-complete-1-10th-sc-truck-or-similiar-sized-vehicle-/rc-car-products/424316 but not sure of the depth dimensions as the lunchbox is quite heigh. Length and width dimensions seem to suggest it will fit inside. Didn’t think it would be difficult to buy a backpack to fit it in but I’m not having much luck. Don’t want international shipping so needs to be in the UK.

Ok thanks, I’ve been reading a few reviews that say it should work ok with the stock esc, but then some said it didn’t, so I was a bit confused! What’s the difference between the sport tuned and the gt tuned?

I've got a standard ESC (TEU105BK) and a standard motor (RC-540) in my Lunchbox. I was thinking of giving it a little more speed by getting the Sport tuned RS-540 motor. I don't want to spend too much and go brushless and go too fast that it becomes undriveable, I just want a big more speed without breaking the bank. My question is would the standard ESC be ok to run the sport tuned motor? and if I up the speed should I be upgrading anything else on the car. I have added hight quality ball bearing when I built it. I'm new to RC so not very clued up with compatibility of motors and ESC's! Any help greatly appreciated. If there is an alternative motor to the sport tuned RS-540 that doesn't need a new ESC please let me know. Thanks

Excellent thanks guys. Yes the little grub screw wasn’t attached to the flat side, it was on the round side! Haven’t tested it outside yet as it’s a bit dark now to give it a try but I think that was the problem. Before if I held the lunchbox down on the floor and kept hold of it and gave it full throttle it made the sound but I’ve just tried that in the garage as I can’t give it a proper try outside until tomorrow and there was no sound like before, just an angry car that wanted to pull away and go! 😀

Took my lunchbox out in the garden tonight for its first run. Although I scuffed the paint job already! Grrr I noticed that when it went from a standing start to full throttle the gears sounded like they were grinding or not engaging correctly. Sounds ok once it’s moving and seems to drive fine, it’s just the initial full throttle burst at the beginning that doesn’t sound right. It doesn’t make this sound if I go full throttle with the wheels off the ground, only when they are on the ground. No issues in reverse. Should I strip down the gear box and see if there is anything odd before I do any major damage? If so what should I be looking for? Just a thought, could this be due to too much grease on the gears? I’m a newbie so any help greatly appreciated. I’ve watched vids on YouTube of people’s lunchbox going from a standing start to full throttle and I don’t hear what I’m hearing. Bit disappointed that I’ve hit issues already as I’ve been looking forward to having some fun with it since I got it for Xmas and it looks like it’s gonna be back in the garage for a service already!