CJ Topspin
-
Posts
48 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by CJ Topspin
-
-
Hey Shodog, that in HM Bay or Santa Cruz?
-
I love both. The vintage models I slowly restore (like an old 70 Chevelle SS or 71 Mustang Boss 351, etc.) and make them as pristine as I can. You put a ton of time and love (and cash) into them and you shelve them under lights.
The re-res you throw a brushless 7,000 Kv motor in it with a fat LiPo and run it like you wished you could run the vintage models. Thats why my shelf has a restored vintage and, next to it, its re-re counterpart all beat up and smoking.
Best of both worlds now.
-
2
-
-
-
Well...over a year later I finally finished the project. Don't have anymore progress pictures but I refurbished many of the plastic parts with Novus (Novus 3, 2 and 1 - we use it for our plexi helicopter windshields and side windows) and a small buffer. It restores shine like a champ. Still painting the driver but I figured I would post the final pictures of the restored vehicle. Again, no need for servo battery pack since power is run through the MSC.
-
Nevermind...checked Amazon.com.au....they want an arm and a leg. Wow.
-
Not sure how it works for you folks in Australia but I just bought one on Amazon for $170. Shipped for free from Japan. Box was opened but all the parts were there. How are the shipping costs to Australia from RC Mart? For us in California shipping costs are more than the cost of the model.
-
6 hours ago, 87lc2 said:
Nice project. I wouldn't hold your breath waiting for the decals to show up. I ordered a bunch on 11/12/18 and still not here yet. Apparently there was a postal strike in Canada and everything is delayed 3-4 weeks (heard this from Nathaneal @MCI). I love his decals and have been using them for years, but they might as well be coming from China at this point.
Yep. Been waiting on my new Falcon body from Team Bluegroove for a while now.
-
After I made sure the mounts for the suspension arms were solid and not going to break under force I attached them all to the chassis and attached my new vintage bumper.
-
1
-
-
I scrubbed and refilled the shocks and mounted them to the suspension arms.
So, the only issue I had with the vintage parts was D4. Apparently, this is a very common issue with the falcon as Falcon#5 pointed out. I decided to use JB Weld Plastic Bond on it because I have some experience dealing with that kind of epoxy in the past. It worked like a charm.
I had to sand away some of the overflow but, after a good 24-hour clamp, even the torque of a 3x12mm self tapping screw didn't break the bond. Of course, we will see once it starts running.
-
I refurbished the MSC, attached the servos, added a waterproof cover to the power switch and mounted it all into the new vintage body.
-
Once that was complete it was time to plug everything in, neutral the servos, test the motor and check for wiring issues. Everything worked perfectly.
-
1
-
-
In order to use a modern receiver, the first thing I had to do is to cut and swap out the old Sanwa 2-wire plug from th e MSC to a modern Futaba J-type connector. (youtube: RC Quick Tips - How to crimp servo leads) Of course, keeping an eye on polarity so I don't burn everything to the ground.
-
So my shell had a significant crack in it so I ended up having to order a new one...this time directly from TBG. So, in the meantime I am going to build the car back up. I was lucky enough to get a vintage body and bumper from e-bay.
-
While i wait for the vendor to straighten out the bumper situation i got everything i need to get the body dialed in. I prefer to “score and snap” using a xacto in order to get nice lines and the scissors for curved areas. Since I’m will be painting the traditional red and black scheme I’ll be using a combo of masking tape and liquid mask.
Again...much thanks to Team BlueGroove.
-
1
-
-
On 11/9/2018 at 1:59 AM, Falcon#5 said:
Any updates on this?
I’m currently dealing with a vendor on e-bay who sent me the wrong vintage bumper. Won it on a bid and now working on a refund. Have a feeling it’s deliberate...eBay...so shady
-
On 11/6/2018 at 1:55 AM, Falcon#5 said:
Nice work.
I've never used that before, but will definitely give it a go now.
Its a little smelly to work with and you have to manually mix it and apply it with a small stick, toothpick, etc. Seems to work really well though.
-
On 10/25/2018 at 4:19 AM, Falcon#5 said:
Was D4 split through/around the ears where it bolts to the chassis?
Yes it was. I used JB Weld plastic which I’ve used before and it’s pretty solid. JB Weld tends to create a bond stronger than the original material and, after sanding down the overflow, you can’t even tell it was cracked.
-
9 hours ago, Lee76 said:
Now, I also like to be contrary.. perhaps I should start a poll for the the least loved and hardest to sell car and give that a home.
You wound me sir. The Boomer is a magnificent machine.
-
1
-
-
Boomerang. Because...it was my first car and I want to be different from everyone else.
Still my fave.
-
1
-
-
An excellent excuse to explain to my wife why I need a lathe.
-
Took about 20 min per rim. The buffing with high grit is what took so long because you are constantly washing, peeling off the flashing and re-sanding. Plus you don't want to thin out the rim edges too much so they break when you put the new tires on.
-
Has anyone here tried to refurbish old plastic? I noticed the wheels were pretty banged up. Instead of buying new ones (for the same price I bought the entire car for) I decided to try to refurbish them. I decided to sand the wheels - increasing the grit until I could wet sand the rims (with 2500 grit paper) to remove the nicks and dings. So far it is working pretty nicely (still need to get rest of the dirt off). Any advice regarding this would be appreciated!
-
12 hours ago, Falcon#5 said:
Looking forward to seeing how this progresses.
Right now I am just scrubbing and cleaning. Found a new bumper to throw on and new tires - all vintage. Judging by your avatar you probably already know how sourcing vintage Falcon parts is really difficult. Fortunately MCI and Team Bluegroove are there to make the body look brand new.
However, There is a crack in bumper part D4 - apparently it is a pretty common issue. I was able to press it back into shape using some plastic JB Weld instead of going the 3D printer route. Again, I want to keep this as vintage as possible.
Here it is broken down.
-
I was lucky. I put in a new battery and it started right up. The servos are shot and twitchy but that is an easy fix. I just took it apart completely and found one cracked piece - that's it. Soaking all the pieces in dish soap overnight to do a piece by piece scub-down tomorrow.
-
1
-
The tamiya I never had and didn't know I loved!
in Vintage Tamiya Discussion
Posted
Excellent shot!