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About schuultzie51

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  1. Whats not to love about the Falcon (Stadium Thunder) Chassis?
  2. I just got my braces in a few days ago too. I thought I had a similar issue with the top brace as well, but I found it was because the little lip on the brace could not fit between my servo and the front plate. I loosened the front plate, slid the brace in and it aligned perfectly! Then, all I had to do was add a standard washer between the tub chassis and the top plate, allowing everything to be tightened snug again. Everything on my blitzer feels SOLID!
  3. Been a while again since I have last posted progress. I found a new set of the Fluorescent Yellow Stadium Thunder wheels online and mounted/glued Proline Caliber tires (8210-02 on the front and 8209-02 on the rear). Install included rubber sealed bearings and blue alloy flange nuts. Rolling chassis is now complete! Still to do: Body Repair/Paint/Decal/Accessorize Install 3D printed AMPro front chassis braces Electronics (Motor/ESC/Battery)
  4. Bingo! Now, Sand Scorcher body is the same as vintage blitzer/monster beetle, right?! At least, in terms of rear window size?
  5. Has anyone ever designed louvers for the rear window of the blitzer/monster/scorcher beetle body? Is anyone interested in designing this? I would love this for my Blitzer Beetle project! https://www.google.com/search?q=beetle+rear+louvers&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwignvqMg6nZAhUO2WMKHUwHDwoQ_AUICygC&biw=1602&bih=831
  6. Here is a picture of another members blitzer, with the steering arms (Just the White/bronze bit) swapped and flipped. Notice how the ball is now on the bottom. Essentially, you take the left, flip it over and put it on the right, ect.
  7. Should look like this, after the switch: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=111668
  8. Wow, that carbon plate looks great! You should be able to fix your toe in problem by adjusting (shortening) the steer rod lengths by a few millimeters. I also suggest swapping/flipping upside-down the front steering arms so that the ball connector is on the bottom. This will get rid of crazy "bump steer", greatly improving handling. Just search blitzer bump steer on the forum for more details (many members have made the switch). The aftermarket front shocks I purchased are also 5-10mm longer than the original CVA shocks... causing the same front lift issue... I ended up getting tires with a smaller circumfrence for the front to correct the odd ride angle. Longer shocks on the rear would also help... meaning more overall ground clearance for off-road stuff. There is also a second hole on the rear suspension arms that I have played around with by mounting the rear shocks to that... I have no idea if this is a sound solution... but it also would balance out the lift on your blitzer. Lastly, I also experimented with adding a spacer between the front shock tower and the chassis plate you screw it onto. If you add a few millimeters of your carbon plate between the two (with longer screws), this in turn will lower the front ride height as well. Lots of options! This should be a fun ride with the cheap brushless/lipo!!!
  9. Good input guys! Since it sounds like PS will work on other plastics, I will stick with all PS... now to find a safe primer for PS... Thanks!
  10. Hey All, Soon I will be painting my first RC Body (Blitzer Beetle Black ABS?). I have some minor repairs to do with Tamiya basic putty and then plan to prime with fine surface light grey primer. After that, I plan to use the spray can PS (polycarbonate) paints. I know these are designed for use with the clear poly bodies... but will this paint bond to the ABS/Primer? Can I use both the TS and PS spray paints on the same body? I'm new and confused... and don't want to ruin anything. I prefer PS because one color I desire is not available in TS (Flouro Yellow). Thanks for the help!
  11. Looks like the gearbox is still sealed from the outside despite the damage... so maybe no function is lost! Blitzers are fun to work on, i'm fixing mine up here:
  12. Related question. I'm in the process of restoring/hopping an original Blitzer Beetle... Some of the screw holes in the chassis seem a bit "soft" to me... Is there anything I can do to give the screws some of their bite back? Maybe a type of glue or thread lock? Thanks!
  13. Wow! This looks like a very solid solution! I am ordering a set right now, only question is... what color do I want :-)
  14. Rear suspension and drive is now complete with: DF03 100mm Alloy Dampers Damper Stabilizer Rod Added (Recycled from old front steering rod) Adjustable DT-02 Turnbuckles Blackfoot Xtreme CVD Driveshafts (w/ 0.6mm shim) Touring Car Hard Steel Cups (53218) FastEddy Rubber Sealed Bearings GPM Aluminium 12mm Wheel Hex Adapters I also had to modify and remove a section of the tub chassis (shown in the second photo) to accommodate the larger diameter rear dampers. This allows for unrestricted spring compression.
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