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About Losi XXT-CR

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  1. You could run a battery like that if you wanted. But if I’m honest I was running better batteries over 20 years ago. I’d say that £16 battery is £18 too expensive. And while a NiMh only charger would work. It is probably easier to just get one that can do more chemistries such as LiPo as it gives you more options. A battery like this: https://hobbyking.com/en_us/nano-tech-4200mah-2s-25c-hardcase.html has over double the capacity and will probably offer 2 1/2 to 3 times the run time. Plus it is physically lighter and will make the vehicle drive better and be more responsive. Other benefits are you don’t need to discharge it after use. Will hold its charge longer, ie if you charge it up. It’ll still be good to go a week later, whereas NiMh will go flat in a few days due to self discharge. LiPo will work better in extreme temps too and for me, more importantly LiPos are easy to charge. Plug them in and go. NiMh packs can be fickle and may false Peak (stop charging) a number of times and may need cycling (charge and run flat and recharge) if they have been left for a while. Really NiMh packs where a pain back in the day. I don’t run them at all these days. I’d also advise swapping out the horrendous Tamiya style connectors. No idea how they get away using them still. They have always been dreadful. I’d recommend XT60 connectors, easier to solder than Deans and easier the plug in and unplug.
  2. 2S is the number of Lipo cells. 1S would be 3.7v, 2S 7.4v etc. If you are planning on NiMh then it is normally called cell count, ie 6, 7 or 8. C is used to determine charge and discharge. Quite easy to work out. 2000mAh has a C value of 2amps. A 4500mAh battery would have a C rating of 4.5amp. As a rule you will want to charge at 1C (1 x whatever the C rating is). This will promote good battery health and a high number of duty cycles (number of times you can charge it). Some batteries will support charging of multiple C’s and will normally say so if they support it. A discharge rating may be 30C which would mean 30 x whatever the C rating is. This will help figure out the performance of the pack (capacity tells you how long it will last). Higher C ratings normally mean more punchy and more performance.
  3. I use one of these: https://www.skyrc.com/iMAX_B6AC_V2_Charger Have a look on ebay/Amazon. Usually not bad money tbh. What size batteries are you wanting to charge though?
  4. I don't believe it is unsafe to store them fully charged. Discharging a Lipo can be more hazardous, as there is risk of getting it wrong and over discharging one. Most chargers are fine these days.
  5. Is it just classic Tamiya's though that are crazy money? I have bought a couple of 2nd hand RC's before; an FTX and a Turnigy. I've been on the lookout for a number of Tamiya models over the years, not especially rare ones, but ones I'd like, some are even available today new. But they always go for crazy money. I recall trying to buy a Mad Bull on multiple occasions. The last one went for around £110 when you added postage to the price!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Whats that all about then? I managed to buy a brand new kit a few weeks back for £71.20 delivered in the Black Friday sale. Although the regular price is only £89 delivered most places. I was looking at some buggies last week and found a used one on eBay for £10 more than a new one. Yet I'm sure it still probably sold. Wasn't a vintage buggy either.
  6. Thanks for the detailed reply. While it is a shame you couldn't get it to work, it does reassure me, that I wasn't going mad!!! Think for now I'll just set it to rear steer on the left stick and do it manually when at low speed and see how it goes. It is easy to change it back over if I want permanent 4ws. I'll also see if I can investigate option 3 a little further. I do have a 3ch Core RC radio, will have to see if that has any different capability, but haven't looked at the option yet.
  7. Is speed and power al that new though? Ok, 3S Lipos and brushless make silly high speeds a lot easier. But even back in the late 1990's you could pretty low turn brushed motors. I used to race with a 10x6 in a 2wd Losi buggy. And a 12 turn race brushed motor is still pretty potent. Also used to run a few 7 and 8 cell NiCd or NiMh packs back then. Biggest difference was run time. But you could still easily get in the 30-40mph range no problem, even without crazy tall gearing.
  8. I can set up dual rates, that isn't the issue. What I can't do is essentially turn one of the Servo's on and off So as to be able to switch between 2 wheel steering and 4 wheel steering.
  9. So I've had a bit more of a play around with this. I plugged the rear servo into Ch4, this allows me to control the front steering with the left stick and the rear steering with the right stick. Only trouble is, as you accelerate and brake, it is all too easy to wobble the left stick, so not much use unless only crawling. Now I have the rear servo on Ch4 I use use the Dual Rate function which allows me to set channel 4 to 0%, thus it no longer activates the servo with the left stick. Setting up a Mix between Ch3 (front servo) and Ch4 allows 4ws from the right stick, but I'm back at the same issue of then not being able to toggle the 4ws on and off easily. The Dual Rate settings on Ch4 seem are not utilised via the Mix. So sadly I'm no further ahead really. Getting the 4ws working on separate channels seem easy enough (but so is using a Y cable and a single channel). I can also get the rear steer to work independently of the right stick (front steering), either by use of the 3 way toggle switch or the left stick. Which might have some uses but isn't what I'm wanting to achieve.
  10. Can anyone help. I'd like to be able to turn the rear steering on and off via the transmitter for my Konghead while driving. I'm using a Flysky FS-i6 Transmitter and 6 channel Rx. I can get the 4ws to work by plugging the rear servo into Ch5 and then setting a mix with Ch1 and assigning Ch5 to the 3 way switch. 'Up' on the switch results in the rear servo going 100% left, 'Down' results in 100% right and the 'Middle' position results in neutral but then working with the front servo. So getting the 4ws working is fine. But what I can't figure out is how I can turn it off while driving. I tried using one of the two way switches, but this results in the servo being either 100% left or right, unless I add an offset, but it didn't really work right and I still couldn't switch it off. Anyone know how I can turn the Mix on and off while driving? I couldn't see a way of assigning this to a separate switch. I also looked at the Dual Rate setting, but these are not available for Ch5.
  11. Where do you find used Tamiya’s for good money? Every time I look they are horrendous money. And I’m not meaning vintage originals either.
  12. I have a modded Lunchbox, not sure it fits what the op is stating. Mine has a 12x6 brushed racing motor and ESC. It is more fun than it was stock. Plus tinkering on such things is half the fun anyway.
  13. Thanks for the advice and I do concur. Although having watched some vids on Youtube of TT-02 touring cars carpet racing, it does make me wonder how capable a TT-02b could be. If it was only 80% as good as the touring cars I watched, I think it would be more than capable of competing at the lower level. I fully understand the dedicated competition vehicles will be quicker, but I highly doubt I would be a front runner with any vehicle. Thus I would be unlikely to be chasing tenths or hundreds of a second differences in setup. Likewise, while I fully appreciate something like the Cougar XC has loads of adjustability in terms of diff height, hub height, chassis flex and loads of other things. The reality is, I probably would leave it alone and just drive as is. So part of me is quite liking the idea of taking a vehicle that is maybe perceived as well out of it's class and giving it go purely because of this. If I get back into it, then a 2wd Cougar Laydown or Associated RC10 B6.1 would are my current front runners.
  14. The original Losi 4wd buggy the XX4 has the motor just behind the front axle and 3 belts. I had probably one of the first in the UK as we imported them from the USA. Good buggy but mine broke almost every time out. Not experienced the 22-4 though.
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