Man1c M0nk3y

I intend and do already have the photos for a fair bit but have had an unexpected health related issue to deal with so just haven’t found the time or in fairness patience to carry on just yet. I will get back to it though.

I never got the shelf queen thing as to me they are to be built and run/enjoyed however(!) as alluded to in my Schumacher Cougar KD build thread it’s probably/more than likely never going to run now. Purely because of parts scarcity though. I spent a lot on it originally and some more since digging it back out that the thought of running and then damaging it worries me. I am still conflicted on it being a total waste of a good car mind. I don’t think I would buy something with the intention of not running it however.

it sure feels it. I strongly suspect something else is breaking long before any of this does! Starting the rebuild on this really makes me want to splash out on Schumacher LD3 just to see how much has changed. Crazy road to go down Compared to the at the time only experience of any other build I had the KD was night and day better than the DT03 even with the DT03 fully hopped up. Granted we had a price difference in the DT03's favour bit once hopped up that gap was much closer yet the KD even in standard guise imo was/is still a hugely 'better' car and I felt at the time and still do that you can get a lot more for your money elsewhere. I still love my Tamiya's however and have recently acquired another.

Before I begin I thought I would mention one fairly big area that these Schumacher kits differ from a Tamiya kit. No parts trees. Each build step comes in its own bag with all the needed parts. No trimming form trees or finding the right screws in a bag that contains hundreds. I won’t dispute the fact it ends up being a lot of little plastic bags which for the most part will probably end up in the bin but I found this part a pleasant surprise at the time and something I really liked. Other points of note. Full bearings and all hex head machines screws and ball connectors. Nice. Again, before I start detailing the (re)build/modify you will see in the coming stages a few purple alloy parts. None of these are/were supplied with the kit and are all spares/option parts. In case anyone wonders what they are or may wish to get some for their own builds they are as follows. U2858 - Speed Pack Alloy Spacers U2187 - Speed Pack M3 Nyloc Nut U2988 - Speed Pack M3 CSK Washers U2135 - Speed Pack M4 Wheel Nuts Right, onto the build then and Steps 1 to 4. Step 1. The steering arms. All standard here with no Option Parts available. Full bearings included with the kit as already mentioned. Red seals too so automatically faster! Step 2. The Steering bridge and our first Option Part. Kit part is plastic, option Alloy. I am in no way saying the alloy is better or that I would even notice in use but to me it’s prettier and that’s just as important! However for the racers and tuners the alloy version allows you to adjust the steering ackerman by adding or removing spacers. Standard is 2mm as per the purple spacers in the picture. Step 3 and 4. Servo Time. Using an old cheap servo that is long since dead (hence the lack of any wires) for now to stop the front being loose. If I do decide to run it I’ll swap this out for something decent that actually works! Also an example of the build ‘steps’ coming in specific bags (I never fitted any electrics first time round so these bits were still bagged). Servo arm can be ‘upgraded’ too from the plastic kit offering to an alloy version and that’s what we have here. The alloy CoreRC 25t Futaba version. A 23t Sanwa is also available with the kit containing both albeit in plastic. When attached the steering to servo horn link sits back and under the servo which seems a neat way to site things imo. Steps 5 to 7. Considering I am undecided on the fate of the buggy in terms of use this next purchase may seem a touch indulgent or dare I say it silly! However in keeping with my plan to build the kit how I’d always intended the next steps contain the next set of the available upgrade/option parts which were Titanium turn buckles. If I remember correctly Schumacher were changing from purple anodised Titanium versions to none anodised when I bought so stock was patchy which is why I didn't already have them as I initially tried to get some old purple stock. Glad I didn't now tbh but explains why I never ended up buying these before it went into the loft. The original specified ones are discontinued but the required lengths can still be found within Schumachers current parts. Altogether the build needs a total of six turnbuckles. Four for the front and two for the rear. For now though. Two of the front ones. Step 5. Camber Arms. A few bits going in here. The connectors are one piece which I like. You can see the kit turnbuckle (shinier) at the front with the Titanium (duller) behind. Our next Option Part also arrives at this stage. The kit link mount is carbon whilst the Option Part is alloy. Again. Not necessarily better and I doubt I’d even notice in use, but did I mention prettier already! And lastly, Schumacher include a ‘fancy’ FRP (I think!) turnbuckle tool which can be seen in picture (used on diff too). Every time I build a turnbuckle I always wish I had some calibers to check length rather than eye balling and a ruler. Need to get some asap. Steps 6 and 7. Now let’s hide it all! And then add the Front Shock tower. 4mm Carbon Fibre as standard. Also the optional shock tower guard. Fitting now to protect the tower but will need to come off to fit the shocks. Front body mount also added gets added during these steps. And all done. I am 50/50 on the look of the nut guard. Serves a purpose but a bit ugly! Also it’s damaged. I hold my hand up here. I over tightened against it on the original build. It hasn’t actually cracked just nearly I guess. Amateur mistake. I’ll decide later whether this stays or not. I already have an idea other than a straight replacement but need to look into it and ultimately spend money. Done enough of that already! And for today, I will leave it at that. After all this time I don’t want to rush things but instead enjoy the build again. Before I do finish though I was undecided on whether to include part numbers due to them mostly being unobtainable now but for the sake of information I’ll list them in case anyone is interested. U4619 - Alloy Centre Track Rod V2 - 2WD CR192 - Alloy Servo Arm 25T - Futaba U7134 - Alloy Front Link Mount U7318 - Titanium Turnbuckle 53mm U4461 - Nut Guard Front

I never had any intentions to do a documented build of this other than what I would normally do for myself either now or when I originally bought the kit but a comment and subsequent response in @Superluminal build thread with his lovely Kyosho Ultimate SB Dirt and Schumacher Cougar Classic it seems there may be some interest. We will see! The backstory! As it turned out I bought the kit literally weeks before the Laydown (LD1) was released which if memory serves improved a few things and was, at the time somewhat annoying and ultimately serves me right for jumping in without any real research! It was intended to be a fun build of a ‘proper’ kit and just for myself to run rather than the kids to destroy or take to a track and ‘race’. I had no intention to do more than run it with the kids. Sacrilege to some I accept. Also initial intentions had been to build it stock. That soon changed! I got carried away buying a lot of ‘Option Parts’ (Schumachers Hop Ups) some for no other real reason than they were available. In hindsight all a bit silly. I did show some restraint however. I didn’t buy them all! I started building it. It never got finished. For me life got a tad messy for a while and it all, the Schumacher and the Tamiya’s, went in a box and into the loft to be forgotten about until recently. At the time I never did get around to buying the option parts for the front yokes and hub carrier’s or the rear hubs but at some point I must have decided not to bother and built those stages up with the kit parts. I don’t actually recall doing so, so it must have been around the time things got complicated and I was distracted/looking for a distraction so built them. On getting it back out I had a good look at what I have, namely a perfect, partially built car, but an old one now at least in terms of this type of car and most parts are now discontinued or hard to obtain. Whilst initially thinking what to do I decided to have a quick look for those missing parts and I managed to find them from multiple sources. I hit the buy button and pretty much sealed it getting finished! They are pretty much non existent now with the rear hubs going out of stock after I purchased that set. I wouldn’t be surprised if the other bits hadn’t too by now. Lucky and already expensive too at this point! I have now completely stripped the car back and it is now ready to rebuild and finally finish what I started several years ago. If I am being honest, right now I am undecided whether this will end up a shelf car or if I’ll fit electrics and run it. On the one hand it feels a shame to not run it but on the other the difficulty in obtaining spares has me leaning towards it living on a shelf once complete but I’ll see how I feel as things progress. Before we get there though I best get it back together! So what am I starting with then? So obviously as the thread title and box give away this is the Cougar KD with the ‘D’ denoting Dirt Spec. Also available at the time was the Cougar KC with the ‘C’ this time denoting Carpet Spec. Of the two specs the KC was the more adjustable car with the transmission having 4 mounting positions (the KC was belt driven) and also more chassis stiffness adjustments available. The two kits also came spaced with different differentials. A gear diff in the KC vs ball diff in the KD although either could be fitted depending on preference. At the time I was actually half tempted to buy both kits. Fortunately for my bank balance I never did! Anyway. Hopefully as I go, some find this of interest and a bit different to the usual builds.

Not sure it covers all of them but this thread from a few years back has a fair few in it.

Thanks for clarifying. I’ll have a play when I next get a chance. Like you say, should be able to get something sorted.

Thanks for checking. A further question for clarification. Is that outer edge to outer edge of the adjusters or eye to eye centres of the adjusters (or however that would be phrased!). I have several spare open 5mm adjusters and some 3x8mm, 10mm and 12mm grubs spare too so happy to have a play around before I commit to spending. I am indeed in the UK so your offer should you have them spare and un-needed could be useful if I can’t sort a decent set up out.

If you could do both front and rear for me that would be massively appreciated. Thanks.

Now I’d be all over that if I had a B7.

Hit a fairly major stumbling block in converting daughter's GF-01 back to standard width that will either need money spending or some creativity! We have lost the standard front and rear camber arms. Getting used to this now sadly. Still can't believe I must have thrown a box away full of parts. I have started a thread here if any GF-01/WR-02 owners fancy getting a ruler out and helping out before I spend more money!

Well, it seems I have hit a stumbling block already in taking the daughters GF-01 back to standard width from it TL-01 arm wide conversion. We have the standard lower arms and standard length turnbuckle steering arms still but at some point the standard and it seems hop up (based on finding the instruction leaflet) camber arms have been misplaced/lost. Easy option is to buy some 2x C-Parts or the it seems ridiculously priced hop up again (no way I paid that much back when I got them!) however before I do I am wondering if anyone can help first. I am thinking of seeing if I can make the arms in a similar vein to the rear arms on an M-05R where the plastic camber links are swapped out to some 5mm adjusters and a long grub screw although like on the M-05R the fronts (small) may still need me to bite the bullet and spend money! I have the parts to make some and could guess through trial and error the measurements I suppose but before I do can anyone measure their standard front and rear arms and equally if anyone has hop-up 54667 could they measure those too please. Overall length or eye to eye I guess should be fine or indeed whatever is easiest for the individual should they be so inclined to help. I have added the WR-02 to the title as the hop up fits this model too so I am assuming they share the same original arms too so will greatly appreciate the help of either owners if they are willing.

Made a start on stripping the lower arms off the daughters GF-01. The shell is in worse state than we had at first thought after its tumbles the other day so whilst we decide on shell we are going to go back to standard too. Will be fitting the turnbuckles that were bought but never used and the low friction step screws pinched for something else. Have also picked up some hex head ball connectors for areas such as shocks that need removing from time to time. Hate prising them off and stretching (or at least it feels like it) the adjusters. A small thing I intend to do on all the cars as I go through their rebuilds.

Nothing to add that hasn’t already been said, but that really is fantastic. The thought and attention to detail is outstanding. Absolutely love it.

Cheers. I may take you up on that. The car is currently as new though so no parts needed. I never finished it for various reasons, but if I am to run it I’ll want some spares first. I will PM you so as not to derail @Pylon80 build/thread. Definitely agree on the 7 body being ‘nicer’ than the 6. Interesting to me too that the body needed cutting. I’d assumed maybe it would be pre cut. That was another area I found pleasantly surprising with my Schumacher. The body was perfectly pre cut. Is that a Schumacher quirk I wonder or do others do it too or indeed if Schumacher even still do. Like the idea with the paint and continuity between your cars.